[doodlebro]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Are they doing a smoke or boost test before/after? Which ones specifically are you installing and where?

Did you capture before logs so you can do before/after?

Nah I trust hardparker and the shop said they went in tight.

Here's a before log at least: https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5e70...0b43508e6f7259

I'll get an after in an hour or two. FYI that on this tune and the Pure Stage 2, I can't go full throttle till 3500-4000 or else I get pretty heavy throttle surges that buck the car.

Edit: After log: https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5e72...0b43508e6f8db6

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by doodlebro

Nah I trust hardparker and the shop said they went in tight.

Here's a before log at least: https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5e70...0b43508e6f7259

I'll get an after in an hour or two. FYI that on this tune and the Pure Stage 2, I can't go full throttle till 3500-4000 or else I get pretty heavy throttle surges that buck the car.

Lol its not about trusting him, it's about trusting the manufacturing of the hardware that you installed. If you read through this thread you will see that the original Oring posted for the IC-CP connection did not work with my VRSF IC+CP and i had to go even bigger (with slight modifications). Trust me i went through several iterations of different Orings on the CP connection points.

Boost vs target looks way off in that log, especially for PS2, so i hope the Orings solve your issue.

[doodlebro]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Lol its not about trusting him, it's about trusting the manufacturing of the hardware that you installed. If you read through this thread you will see that the original Oring posted for the IC-CP connection did not work with my VRSF IC+CP and i had to go even bigger (with slight modifications). Trust me i went through several iterations of different Orings on the CP connection points.

Boost vs target looks way off in that log, especially for PS2, so i hope the Orings solve your issue.

Sounds like you're having an issue with the VRSF charge pipe. I have the FTP charge pipe and the difference is pretty clear: https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5e72...0b43508e6f8db6

Got one extra PSI at least, and didn't really have to massage the throttle like I usually do to get a good log that doesn't taper to 9-10 PSI by redline.

FWIW it's normal for boost not to hit targets on PWG at altitude without a custom tune.

Thanks again @hardparker, great mod.

[HDBoss]

Installed all FTP pipes and HD VRSF on f25 chassis. Next O-ring works well for me:
80*4mm - FTP CP to TB;
59*4.6mm - HD VRSF to FTP CP and BP;
49*4mm - PS2 outlet to FTP BP (will try 4.6mm but not sure it would fit);
10*3mm - FTP CP to jet pipe (original size 10*2.5mm is not sit firmly).

Thanks for the thread Hardparker!

[evilchargerfan]

Originally Posted by HDBoss

Installed all FTP pipes and HD VRSF on f25 chassis. Next O-ring works well for me:
80*4mm - FTP CP to TB;
59*4.6mm - HD VRSF to FTP CP and BP;
49*4mm - PS2 outlet to FTP BP (will try 4.6mm but not sure it would fit);
10*3mm - FTP CP to jet pipe (original size 10*2.5mm is not sit firmly).

Thanks for the thread Hardparker!

ftp includes o rings, i believe they are even pre installed

did you essentially throw away the included o rings and used the ones hardparked recommended?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

ftp includes o rings, i believe they are even pre installed

did you essentially throw away the included o rings and used the ones hardparked recommended?

If we had to use a 59x4.6 (or 4.5 if that was a typo), then theres no way OEM style Orings would work. He might have received a VRSF IC with IC/TIC pipe connections that were out of spec like i did.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by nightelf

Man this is freakin helpful! So you advise against the stock gaskets? These will be a better, more "perfect" fit?

The advice is to use the stock oring if it will seal, otherwise use the biggest oring that you can fit. There are situations where people can run OEM orings with aftermarket IC/CP/TIC. However, there are also clear situations where OEM orings will not seal with aftermarket hardware (myself included in this situation if you read the thread). So, it just depends on how lucky you get with your parts. Having went through everything i did, i would not attempt a IC/CP/TIC install without having these larger orings on hand.

[itsrichierich]

The measurements of the o-rings, are they OD or ID? Getting ready to order them from McMaster Carr so I can get them same day.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

The measurements of the o-rings, are they OD or ID? Getting ready to order them from McMaster Carr so I can get them same day.

https://www.theoringstore.com/

https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...d=41&chapter=6

Should be inside diameter, but if you are concerned, check the website of the actual place you are ordering from.

Edit: Basically you measure ID and CS. For Oring store that's what they go on.

[itsrichierich]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

https://www.theoringstore.com/

https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...d=41&chapter=6

Should be inside diameter, but if you are concerned, check the website of the actual place you are ordering from.

Edit: Basically you measure ID and CS. For Oring store that's what they go on.

Ok, CS and ID it is.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

Ok, CS and ID it is.

I would recommend getting multiple thickness (CS) just incase your boost leak is bad like mine. Fractions of a mm make a big difference.

[itsrichierich]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I would recommend getting multiple thickness (CS) just incase your boost leak is bad like mine. Fractions of a mm make a big difference.

So I am going to buy them off the links listed originally because McMaster sells them in packs of 25 and it's past the cutoff time for delivery today.

With that being said, should I get another set that is .5mm bigger or maybe a whole 1mm?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

So I am going to buy them off the links listed originally because McMaster sells them in packs of 25 and it's past the cutoff time for delivery today.

With that being said, should I get another set that is .5mm bigger or maybe a whole 1mm?

I think the OP sums it up and you can read through my earlier posts as i was dealing with my issues for more info. 1mm bigger would almost certainly be impossible to fit. I had to lightly sand the 0.5mm bigger CS one just to get it to fit, even though the one that was 0.5mm smaller leaked. So like a said, fractions of a mm is the difference between a leak and not being able to even fit it.

From OP, what i ended up using to seal mine -
"4.5mm x 60mm o-ring, lightly sanded to reduce it's thickness, worked best at eliminating leaks"

You might be able to use the 4mmx59mm as that is already a step up over stock. This is specifically for IC-CP.

[joni_titi]

Does someone know the size of the OEM o-ring that goes between the charge pipe ant the throttle body ?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by joni_titi

Does someone know the size of the OEM o-ring that goes between the charge pipe ant the throttle body ?

The first post in this thread has the sizes for all of them.

[joni_titi]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

The first post in this thread has the sizes for all of them.

From what I understand those are a little bit bigger and/or thicker than the original. I'm looking for the OEM size, my charge pipe explode and I lost the o-ring.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by joni_titi

From what I understand those are a little bit bigger and/or thicker than the original. I'm looking for the OEM size, my charge pipe explode and I lost the o-ring.

The one listed in the OP fits easily, i would just get that one.

Not sure the exact dimensions of the OEM one, but should be almost exactly the same, perhaps half a mm smaller CS. In any case if you want the original you should be able to get it from BMW or any of the online vendors.

[itsrichierich]

I forgot to update this thread when I bought the o-rings from the website in the original post.

When I bought all of these o-rings, I bought all the o-rings for my bolt ons. That includes the CP to TB, CP to IC, turbo CP to IC, turbo CP to turbo. However, I only had 1 major boost leak which was from my CP to IC.

When I took the CP off, I saw that I slightly ripped the OEM that I had installed. I tried installing the "Intercooler: 2 - 4mm x 59mm" but that was too small, the o-ring didn't fit inside the groove. Of course the "4.5mm x 60mm" that thejeremyman9 recommended was out of stock so I didn't have that on hand. I went to the dealership and bought 2 more of the OEM o-ring. Again when installing the new OEM ring, I ripped it, causing another leak when I did my test.

I wasn't sure what I was doing when installing it because when I put it together, there was very little resistance. I checked the inner lip and grooves to check for sharp objects but there was nothing I could see. After using the already ripped o-rings a few more times, I installed my last good o-ring and it worked out. No leaks.

For reference, I have Evolution Racewerks CP, IC and turbo CP to IC.

I still have these o-rings if anyone wants them, just paying for shipping and they're all yours. This is what I bought:

2 x 4.5mm X 49mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring (N4.50X049)
2 x 4mm x 81mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Rings (N4.00X081)
2 x 4mm x 59mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Rings (N4.00X059)
2 x 5mm X 49mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring (N5.00X049)
1 x 4.5mm X 81mm (NBR) Buna-N 70 Duro Metric O-Ring (N4.50X081)

[thejeremyman9]

I think everyone bought out the 4.5x60 after that post lol. When i installed my TIC a few weeks ago it was still out of stock. I probably have 20+ Orings now of various sizes and CS... for each one i basically bought one size smaller and larger diameter with the same CS, then for the actual diameter, i bought one size thinner and one size thicker CS.

I always started with the largest CS and went down until one fit. If one fit that seemed loose, i went back up to the larger CS and sanded it down (use a drill with attachment and fine sand paper so its evenly reduced) about 0.1mm CS at a time until i could barely get it on. I had to do this for the turbo side of my TIC and my CP-IC.

So if the one you need is out of stock, go to a larger CS of the same diameter and sand it down until it barely (tightly) fits.

[Eschmacher]

So I grabbed a 4.5x59 a while ago, noticed my charge pipe leaking at the IC connection and swapped it over. I thought it felt good for a few days, but now I've picked up a pretty loud whistle under boost... I'm wondering if reinforcing my charge pipe just blew out my DV lol.

That or the o ring isn't holding. I went and picked up an OEM seal from the dealer and I plan on putting it in today to see if I can hit 18psi again. It won't even hold 10psi right now.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Eschmacher

So I grabbed a 4.5x59 a while ago, noticed my charge pipe leaking at the IC connection and swapped it over. I thought it felt good for a few days, but now I've picked up a pretty loud whistle under boost... I'm wondering if reinforcing my charge pipe just blew out my DV lol.

That or the o ring isn't holding. I went and picked up an OEM seal from the dealer and I plan on putting it in today to see if I can hit 18psi again. It won't even hold 10psi right now.

I don't think you can "blow out" your DV... I would find it hard to believe if you dislodged these oversized orings as well given the groove, so long as it was installed correctly. I would say the coupler is the most likely.

[Eschmacher]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I don't think you can "blow out" your DV... I would find it hard to believe if you dislodged these oversized orings as well given the groove, so long as it was installed correctly. I would say the coupler is the most likely.

Well, I just installed new OEM seals at both intercooler pipes. Nothing changed, still have a whistle under boost, and I can see the target boost as 16psi, and I'm making 8-10.

My only idea is my DV tore. I mean it is almost 8 years old.