[Ayyleoo]

Anyone experience a quick hesitation or even a rough start up at after a start stop at drive through or hesitation during hard pull shift ?

[sorocknroll]

Does this look like enough variation to be problematic? I think I'm experiencing this issue, took the car to the dealer (still under warranty) and they say it's normal.

[dukati]

Originally Posted by sorocknroll

Does this look like enough variation to be problematic? I think I'm experiencing this issue, took the car to the dealer (still under warranty) and they say it's normal.

You need to actually monitor the VANOS req and VANOS act parameters if you want to see the health of your actuator/solenoid.

[sorocknroll]

Originally Posted by dukati

You need to actually monitor the VANOS req and VANOS act parameters if you want to see the health of your actuator/solenoid.

I thought that's what I was doing, I'm using the BimmerLink app. Should I use a different field within that app, or is there another that would be better?

[dukati]

Originally Posted by sorocknroll

I thought that's what I was doing, I'm using the BimmerLink app. Should I use a different field within that app, or is there another that would be better?

Vanos exhaust req(requested) and Vanos exhaust act. (actual). Then the same for Vanos intake.

I made a short video on how the live values look like with cruise control at 60km/h

Here's my autolog as you can see exhaust is a lot more all over the place. Intake could be better but it's not as bad as exhaust. I ended up changing both as changing just the exhaust didn't make it as smooth as changing both


Unfortunately on Bimmerlink I do not know the value names. Maybe what you chose is accurate. The funny looking one in that cause is especially visible in the range from 2000-3000 on your graph.

[mitch_t_bimmer]

Originally Posted by sorocknroll

I thought that's what I was doing, I'm using the BimmerLink app. Should I use a different field within that app, or is there another that would be better?

As others have suggested I would use MHD with an ENET cable. You can purchase the MHD "monitor" license for around $150 I believe.

I also tried using BimmerLink but found that it did not have enough throughput to capture the variation. I just looked back at an old log that I had with 18 parameters selected, I was getting 3 second resolution. You shouldn't use BimmerLink with that many parameters anyways, but you get the idea.

BimmerLink will spit out data with a 150 ms tic, but if you look closely at the raw output it is not varying for many consecutive tics. (note: not all parameters are expected to vary at this resolution e.g. your "actual gear" should not vary unless there is a gear change)

MHD on the other hand consistently provides data at a 100 ms resolution which is plenty for detecting the vanos actual bounding around.

[toxik]

well i decided to go ahead and buy 2 new actuators. I definitely have very slight hesitation/bucking on very low throttle between 1700-2300 RPM in every gear at low speeds. I will be ordering 2 new actuators and swapping them in April. Will report back if it makes a difference on my car.

[g340ix]

Originally Posted by toxik

well i decided to go ahead and buy 2 new actuators. I definitely have very slight hesitation/bucking on very low throttle between 1700-2300 RPM in every gear at low speeds. I will be ordering 2 new actuators and swapping them in April. Will report back if it makes a difference on my car.

i would suggest grabbing 4 of these as well, better to have them an not need them then lose some and not have them
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...mw-11128642177

[toxik]

Originally Posted by g340ix

i would suggest grabbing 4 of these as well, better to have them an not need them then lose some and not have them
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...mw-11128642177

thanks yeah i was on the fence about getting em or not, did see people bitching about them. ill get them just to be on safe side.

[Pepsipz9]

Originally Posted by SebsM2

Thanks for this awesome thread. My pre-cat o2 sensor was the culprit of my fuel cuts.

I have 2 brand new vanos actuators that I won’t be needing now that the pre-cat o2 sensor fixed my car! DM if you’re interested!

Hi! First, sorry for bad English, I have the same problem with bad working on B58 after full rebuild, it’s the bad noice up side. I’ve changed vanos actuator, PCV and other things but the noise still bad. Can you help me with the problem?

[AMG KLR]

Is there another DIY besides this one?

[toxik]

Originally Posted by AMG KLR

Is there another DIY besides this one?

that DIY isn’t ideal cause the guy didn’t use the tool made for extracting and installing them:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-tool-cta-2807

[g340ix]

Originally Posted by toxik

that DIY isn’t ideal cause the guy didn’t use the tool made for extracting and installing them:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-tool-cta-2807

you don't really need the tool to do this job. I used it the first time I did it and actually had an easier time the second time without it. It's a tight space

[toxik]

Originally Posted by g340ix

you don't really need the tool to do this job. I used it the first time I did it and actually had an easier time the second time without it. It's a tight space

good to know, will try both ways when im doing this. but have to ask, why did you need to do this job twice?

[SpencerC_6MT]

I have a theory that it has to do with throttle tuning; if you've ever driven a F80 in sport or sport+ especially, you'll know what I mean. The throttle is so touchy that you inadvertently find yourself modulating the pedal ever so slightly, leading to sharp bucking that feels like the car's problem. The solution? Accelerate harder, or don't drive around in Sport+. Now I wouldn't be surprised if there's a mechanical issue causing this in B58 cars, but perhaps it's exacerbating the effect enough to become noticeable where it wasn't before.

[g340ix]

Originally Posted by toxik

good to know, will try both ways when im doing this. but have to ask, why did you need to do this job twice?

Haha, I pinched the rubber seal on the new actuator on the exhaust side when putting it in. oil leak... so I just replaced them both again.

Also, I found it easier to put in the new actuators before connecting the wiring, it's a bit of a pain to get the connectors on once the actuators are installed, but I found it easier than trying to put the actuators in while connected to the wires.

[toxik]

replaced my actuators today (had a shop do it didn't have time as im in middle of a move) but the car feels much better, the low speed bucking is completely fixed. for those that like to do preventative mods, i think any B58 with over 60-75k miles should get these replaced. clearly based on this thread they tend to go bad.

[f32430]

Is the ISTA teach process for the new vanos solenoid required after replacing the actuators?


I saw this post mentioning a shop did that step after replacing the actuators, so was curious.
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1972750

[Mirgus]

Hello everyone

i've bought an F22 M240i 2017 with ~35k miles and i have the bucking issue since i picked up the car :/. Currently i am still under warranty but it seems hard to figure out the issue.

I have following issues:

• car starts bucking at ~1000-1100 rpm on a slight uphill and only when the engine is warm ( when the engine is cold the VANOS arent working)
• hesistation feeling on accleration from standstill (slight delay)
• engine sometime "stalls" accelerating from standstill in traffic when the engine is still in coldstart

So i brought the car to the dealer for diagnosis and following fault code existed:

• 21A02D: combustion control idle irregular

They have updated the car to a newer i-level and calibrated the VANOS. After the i-level update and VANOS recalibration the IDLE was rougher but the throttle response was much better and the bucking was gone.

I didnt have any issues for 6k miles but the bucking returned . Interestingly the IDLE improved when the bucking returned. So i bought a MHD monitor license and hoped for an easy fix... but unfortunetly the VANOS target angles are oscillating and the VANOS are doing what they suppose to do according to the DME
https://datazap.me/u/mirgus/log-1722...og=0&data=5-28

So i returned to the dealer and apprently last time they didnt update the i-level to the latest one... so they did update the i-level again. This time to i-level 24-07-520 and they recalibrated the VANOS again. Now the IDLE is rougher but at least for know the issue is gone again... but i am pretty sure it will return.
Heres a log after the i-level update.

When the car is idling in neutral the VANOS (exhaust and intake) do some funky stuff periodically... not sure whats going on her
https://datazap.me/u/mirgus/log-1724772069


Currently i dont have any solution yet :/ in case i find one i will let you know.
Greetings from germany