03-24-2023, 06:51 PM | #1 |
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After wax, what's next?
Best advice I've heard for wax is Jescar Powerlock Plus OR Wolfgang Deepgloss and then Collinite 845. Two layers of each is good for six months. Surface prep and go light with both products.
Ok, let's say I do this and the car looks amazing. Now how do I keep the car clean? Let's say it's dusty from the garage or dirty from a trip on a dirt road. How do I clean it without removing the wax? |
03-24-2023, 10:26 PM | #2 |
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For a full wash I use Optimum No Rinse. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For a light wash I use TriNova Waterless. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They don't hurt my Power Lock. I can't be positive but between the similar color and odor I think they all use the same hydrophobic polymer. |
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03-25-2023, 06:47 AM | #3 | |
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Dirt road grime: Just wash it and don't worry about removing the wax. If truly concerned, do what I do: use Griots spray wax products to keep the paint slick & protected in between full- blown wax jobs. Hope this helps! Cheers.... |
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03-27-2023, 04:06 AM | #4 |
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A normal wash with non-aggressive foam and shampoo product will not remove the wax! That's the whole point. If wax dissolved so easily, it would have been useless - one rainy day and it would be gone
Forget "water-less" wash products. Irrespective of whether you have wax or not. Water is needed to properly and safely wash a car. Simple fact. Spot-cleaning can be done with quick detailers. Slightly dirty or just dusty car - just a rinse or a touchless wash with auto-foam and power-washer. Otherwise - a proper wash. When it comes to the wax itself - I am not impressed by the Collinite 845. This was my first ever wax product when I started with car detailing just over 10 years ago. The durability is absolutely pathetic, hydrophobic qualities - mediocre. It may be good for other applications, but definitely not as a car wax. Very poor performance. Just my 2 cents.
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Last edited by Skyhigh; 03-27-2023 at 05:07 AM.. |
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03-27-2023, 08:02 AM | #5 |
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Optimum No-Rinse isn't water-less. Neither is Tri-Nova Waterless. They only differ from traditional products in that they don't require a rinsing after the washing. I've seen the criticisms, IMO they must come from those who've never used these products. I'm seven years in with them with no ill effects.
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03-27-2023, 08:22 PM | #6 | |
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03-28-2023, 02:25 AM | #7 |
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Yes, but as with every other product, there isn't one that is "best" at everything. So I need to know what your priorities are:
- What is the primary reason for you to consider a wax? What are you aiming for and what property is most important to you (e.g. look, protection, hydrophobic quality, etc.) - How often would you be willing to renew it? - How quickly do you want to be able to apply it? Do a couple of hours work scare you? And last but not least - what colour is your vehicle?
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03-29-2023, 10:03 PM | #8 | |
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03-30-2023, 03:41 AM | #9 |
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Excellent, since that was also one of my top priorities when selecting one...
And btw you would be so much off with the Collinite, which you would need to renew every couple of weeks... it has really mediocre performance! I can highly recommend the Soft 99 Fusso Coat 12M! Been using it for years and I am extremely happy with it. Depending on you driving, parking and environment, it will last for anything between 6 and 15 months! In my case I see some degradation starting after about 9 months, but the majority of the car is still covered even after 12-14 months. But again - that depends heavily on your driving, where you park, what your general environment is, etc. It also depends heavily on the clear-coat preparation prior to waxing. The better you prepare it the first time, the longer the wax will last. Thereafter, when the time comes, you can just reapply the wax after a thorough wash. I have also done experimental comparison between the Fusso Coat and the wax I use on my BMW (since it is matt and requires special products) and other sealants I had lying around. I applied each on a removed peace of painted panel and attacked them with various car wash products, Isopropanol and other chemical agents to see how fast each degrades. Fusso Coat was the winner and the only one that resisted tar remover products with barely any noticeable degradation in performance. Most others were either completely or partially off from a single use of tar removers. There are 2 versions of the Fusso Coat - light and dark. In reality you can take either, as the differences are small (light has more fillers and is claimed to be easier to work with, the dark has more gloss-enhancers, but some complain leaves cloudy areas if not polished off properly), but better stick with the dark for your mineral grey. Last but not least - I am not a pro, but car detailing has been my hobby for just over 10 years now.
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Last edited by Skyhigh; 03-30-2023 at 03:52 AM.. |
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03-30-2023, 08:31 PM | #11 |
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Never heard of those but googling them - they are sealants, whereas Fusso Coat is a fully synthetic hard wax, same as Collinite. Shouldn‘t compare apples and oranges. Each type of product has its pros and cons. IMO sealants sit inadequately inbetween waxes and ceramic coatings and are therefore quite unpopular nowadays.
You should first decide what kind of product you are after (spray wax / hard wax / sealant / ceramic coating). Each has advantages and disadvantages. You don’t need two of those, that’s nonsense.
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05-16-2023, 03:25 PM | #12 |
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I just finished applying Jescar Power Lock Plus.
My usual step is 1. Bring portable foam cannon (optional), and go to a wand wash. Foam and rinse. 2. Drive back to your garage/driveway, and apply foam. 3. Two-bucket method with a good quality mitt 4. Rinse with water, using the sheeting technique, and blow dry with a leaf blower 5. Apply wet wax product (you can apply it on a wet surface) Autoglym and Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions has one. I have enjoyed swirl-free 9 years of ownership on a Black Sapphire Metallic paint using this method. |
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