01-04-2015, 10:17 AM | #1 |
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Opinion of this break-in method…
Hello friends! What do you think about this? Thank you, very much. Good day…
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm |
01-04-2015, 10:49 AM | #2 |
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Well, that article mentions it is for motorcycles although it is applicable to all 4 cylinder engines. I broke-in my motorcycle the "hard" way and it runs just fine and has had no issues. I also broke-in my Highlander (although it is a V6) by driving how I wanted and it runs amazingly smooth as well. I also get above average gas mileage from it. For both vehicles I let the engine warm up first.
As for my 328i, I bought it preowned so I don't know how it was broken in, but being a dealer vehicle I assume it was also the "hard" way. This car also works like a champ and you can click my Fuelly for gas mileage details, which are pretty impressive. So IME hard break-in is fine. None of these vehicles are yet over 50k miles but I do not think any issues would arise as a result of the "hard" break-in method.
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01-04-2015, 11:16 AM | #4 |
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As long as you get then engine up to temperature, drive within limits of new tyres and brakes, then hard (but varied) run in is fine.
Variation is the key, just sitting at X thousand revs is as bad as pottleing around and taking things easy. The other bit is if you do break it in hard, as mentioned is get an oil change, just lots of swarf and potential FOD swimming around in your oil. The other thing with breaking it in hard is, can you handle it? Seen plenty bikers lose it with new bikes breaking them in hard but not fully knowing the quirks of their new bike. Also if you have an 8 AT gearbox, then you need to put it in 'manual' and use the flippers to break it in hard, normal comfort mode etc is not really enough (especially on 330d and 335d). |
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01-04-2015, 01:38 PM | #7 |
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Lol. I agree, it is hideous and a pain to read.
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01-04-2015, 02:31 PM | #8 | |
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This is a post I did on another site. though you might find it useful. This break in process is my derivation. I am an electromechanical Flight Control Engineer and had studied long life mechanical system and this is a process that I use on all my mechanical systems from my 73AMX the Garden scale locomotives I run. Here is the foundation of my philosophy. 1 Machined metal looks like a mountain range under high powered microscope. 2 Mating Parts are like two inverted mountain ranges going in opposite direction. 3 As they pass each other they rip off their peaks that then travels to the oil filter passing other mechanical components along the way. Key Point The higher the force between the mountain ranges, the larger the peaks that break off tearing the metal and scoring other metal parts on its way to the oil pan. The lower the force between the mountain ranges the smaller the peaks rip off and tend to act like lapping compound as the material travels to the oil filter Low force Good, High force Bad. The only was to eliminate the this process is to super finish all moving parts. http://www.remchem.com/services/ For the cost I am certain BMW did not do this. The other theory is Carbon Hardening. Have a 73 AMX, Valves failed when unleaded Gas burned in these engines after fresh valve jobs From Burning the higher unleaded heat. Valves that did not burn were infused with carbon from the engine combustion burn hardening them. the higher the cycles the harder the walls. By allowing the piston rings polish (seat) to the walls under low loads and have the metal hardened by the burnt fuel carbon at combustion chamber temperatures you will generate a durable mated surface that will hold the proper film of oil on the cylinder wall. Why Eco Mode? Eco Mode detunes the engine to reduce the wear forces while you break it in. It will not let you over load the engine. BMW did not recommend it, but it makes sense to me since my foot loves the turbo. Why 3,000 Miles? That is what I did for my AMX and 30 years later it still runs like a bat out of Hell with no oil burn Change oil after 3000 miles The gradual load increase from BMW is a great idea after initial break in process, reason being as the engine revs higher, the connecting rod stretches placing the rings on new cylinder wall section, and the other matting surfaces improving the surface finish mating with steadily increasing loads. With this break in process, and proper oil service, I am anticipating a hard working engine the occasionally will visit the track that will hold its power and not waste oil past 300K miles. That is my plan. |
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01-04-2015, 02:37 PM | #9 |
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I usually follow the manufacturers guidelines, but don't really think it matters. For example, if you had an engine issue within the first few months, do you think the dealer would deny a warrantee claim because you didn't follow break in procedure? Assuming they could prove this with the OBD and rev counter data logging.
I've purchased numerous Porsches and BMWs from different dealerships, and they've all said the break in doesn't really matter. Some of them were very reputable as well and I'd value their opinion
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01-04-2015, 02:38 PM | #10 |
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BMW says 1200 miles, not 3000. 1200 is about all I'll be able to give it. Thats 3-4 months for me. I'll be damned if I'm gonna go almost a year without beating on the motor.
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01-04-2015, 03:23 PM | #11 | |
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01-04-2015, 03:27 PM | #12 | |
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You are basing the running in of a full scale engine against a toy train engine? Even though the manufacturer recommends 1200, that will be a conservative estimate based on most critical component in engine / drive train. The actual force remains constant within the engine, it is the speed that varies, a piston generates the same force, however it's speed varies with actual revs, that gives the increase in force / power. Anyone driving in Eco mode (self harm mode) for 30 miles never mind 3000 miles deserves a medal. Engines need variation of speeds and loads to bed in correctly. The majority of all functional checks / tests of any engine have it running at various power / rpm settings. Also the standard of modern engines are well ahead of those from 80s and earlier, where yes care had to be taken. |
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01-04-2015, 04:02 PM | #13 | |
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My goal is to have the car in 25 years and 1/2Million Miles. I might not make it that long but I figured I would giver it the collage try. Please remember this is just another opinion for you to draw your own conclusions from, based on that you want to do and what works for you. |
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01-04-2015, 04:15 PM | #14 | |
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It's also agreed upon that keeping it "below x RPM and x MPH for x miles" as the only guideline, per any owner's manual, is the worst possible way to break an engine in. However, you won't find an auto manfucturer stray away from this. Good luck getting legal to approve outlining proper break-in in a mass-market car's owner's manual, so having something in there to appease those who think they're accomplishing something does just fine. The bit about "taking it easy" on the brakes for x miles is the best, though. Again, the liability of some dweeby putz causing an accident following brake-bedding procedure is too high. But does it really make a difference? No...not in the least bit for mass produced cars like these. |
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01-04-2015, 04:37 PM | #15 |
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Haha… I did the break-in process in the way that the manufacturer indicates. 2000 km or 1200 miles. RPM range variation, not over 4000-4500 (in petrol engines), let the engine warm properly (and cool-down too for turbo care purposes)… About the engine oil… I know that the engine oil quality, correct viscosity and, of course, the correct oil level are the most important facts about it. That was my concern trying to take the engine oil level the closer to the max mark, without overfilling it… And about driving my car hard (after the stipulated break-in period), well… Of course I like to enjoy all my cars. Life is too short. Warm hug…
Last edited by Mauricio Palacios. MD; 01-04-2015 at 04:49 PM.. |
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01-04-2015, 05:57 PM | #16 | |
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Thank you for your comments. I greatly appreciate new information. One thought, I always considered load to be how much pressure the combustion chamber is exposed to which is equivalent to torque. 2000 rpm at full throttle I consider a high load in particular since the hydraulic wedge may be at its weakest point. I also agree that the higher revolutions after the brake in period are crucial to accommodate connection stretch allowing the rings to mate to the new cylinder walls. and BMW had it right by saying to gradually increase the power and I assume the RPMs. the materials and engine processes have changed over they years, but I have not had the luxury of getting the BMW chief engine engineer into a pub for a few hours to get the data to make informed decisions. I researched this engine and have found it to be a marvel of engineering but it is the details I do not have access to. One of the best articles I found about the new BMW 4 cylinder also the foundation of the 6 cylinder is in the link below. http://www.kilometermagazine.com/art...20_Engine.html One thing I did forget to mention. Disable the engine start and stop feature. I am researching how to permanently disable it to save the turbo. |
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01-04-2015, 06:09 PM | #17 | |
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01-04-2015, 06:15 PM | #18 | |
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http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/1849...l?redirected=1 |
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01-04-2015, 06:40 PM | #19 | |
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Being in the Military you might enjoy the videos of some of my work, Look up DAGR Missile APKWS |
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01-04-2015, 09:12 PM | #20 | |
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Thanks a lot! That is a very interesting article about the break-in process in airplanes and I think many recommendations should be applied to our engines… |
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