06-17-2018, 07:10 PM | #243 | |
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06-17-2018, 09:30 PM | #244 |
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Thanks in advance. I was told by BM3 that Stage 2 93 targets 16-17 psi which is a lot lower than 290whp@22psi with JB4. I've seen only 300whp for bootmod3 on here with a downpipe and larger turbos so not sure what's going on.
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06-18-2018, 08:36 AM | #245 | ||
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06-18-2018, 09:14 AM | #246 | |
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Exhaust Burble Type- This will control how many or how few burbles, cracks, pops, etc. you want to have coming from your exhaust. The tune will make slight adjustments depending on how you configure this setting. It is strongly recommended to leave this at OEM for a car with the stock downpipe and catalytic converter. This is because these burbles are caused by a little extra fuel combusting in the exhaust rather than in the engine, and the cat is not designed for this. However, even on the OEM setting, you will get a few burbles in the lower RPM range. This is normal and ok. Cold Start (Cat Heating)- This will control whether or not you'd like to use the cold start cycle. In other words, when the engine is cold, the car will rev higher and idle higher for the first minute or so to warm up the cat. Some people choose to delete this feature when they remove the cat, because it is no longer necessary, and because cold starts without the cat are very loud. Leave this at OEM. Cold Start RPM- This will control how high the car will rev and idle in the scenario described above. Leave this at OEM Exhaust Flap (Sport)- This will control whether or not you want to open the small valve that closes off the outer most tailpipe. Our cars have a valve closing off the outermost tailpipe and you can choose, via this configurable, whether or not you'd like it to be open or closed. You will get a louder more aggressive crack on upshifts and more burbles with it open, but it does not make a huge difference. I leave it at open, but it is up to you Speed Limiter (VMAX)- This will control whether or not you'd like to leave the factory speed limiter on. VMAX stands for Velocity Maximum. From the factory, the 328i is electronically limited to a top speed of 132mph. If you want to go faster than 132mph, you can turn this option off. If you don't plan to go faster than that, you can leave it on. It's up to you. Catalytic Monitors (CEL)- This will control whether or not you want the car to display check engine lights (CELs) if the cat is not detected. When people replace the stock downpipe and thus remove the cat, it causes a check engine light. So, BM3 gives you the option to get rid of this check engine light as a convenience if you remove the cat. Leave this at OEM, as this option is only designed for people who remove the cat. In order to configure these settings, go to my maps, select the map you'd like to configure, and on the top right you'll see a little red button with a gear and the work "Config" on it. Click on this and then click on the "select" button all the way to the right of the configurable options and configure how you'd like or how I recommended above. Then go to the bottom and hit save changes. This will redirect you back to the map page, and it will say the map is being processed or something like that. Wait about 2 minutes, refresh the page, and voila, you have your configured map and can flash it. Regarding how they are configured if you don't change them at all, I assume they are all set to OEM from the start, but I am not 100% sure. You should go in and set them all to OEM or how you'd like them configured anyway, just for piece of mind. I hope that helps!
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06-18-2018, 09:34 AM | #247 |
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You're thinking of Stage 1. Stage 2 runs around 21psi. You also have to remember that it's not just about the boost being run. Timing/fueling is also important.
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06-18-2018, 09:35 AM | #248 | |
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06-18-2018, 10:57 AM | #249 |
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Happy to help
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06-18-2018, 11:03 AM | #250 | |
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But yah, stage 1 will target 20 psi and only hit 17, stage 2 will target 21 psi and hit it too.
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06-18-2018, 01:36 PM | #251 |
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QQ - I've been running BM3 stage 1 for a couple of weeks with great performance. I recently added AFE filter and VRSF 5" IC, and it seems that the low end has a bit more lag now. Top end is still great. Is this a result of the IC install?
I'm throwing on my DP this weekend and moving up to stage 2, so I wanted to make sure all things were good to go before then.
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06-18-2018, 05:12 PM | #252 | |
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06-18-2018, 06:20 PM | #253 | |
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There's no functional need for it.
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06-18-2018, 07:03 PM | #254 |
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Thx. That's what I'm thinking too. I'm having the DP installed this week, so I'll have a better idea when running stag2.
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06-18-2018, 07:20 PM | #255 |
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Really?
A properly designed FMIC shouldn't give any noticable pressure drop, stock, stage 1 or higher. From what I understand at least. I'd swap back to stock air filter and see if that changes anything to at least rule that out. |
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06-18-2018, 08:15 PM | #256 |
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Did you quote the wrong post by mistake? I don't have a catless DP nor did I mention the cold start cycle.
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06-18-2018, 08:16 PM | #257 |
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Really? How would an FMIC upgrade hurt a stage one car? I've been considering an FMIC for a while to continue running stage one with.
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06-18-2018, 11:08 PM | #258 | |
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Cold Start RPM- This will control how high the car will rev and idle in the scenario described above. Leave this at OEM I'm referring to this, but if you don't have a catless DP then nevermind!
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06-18-2018, 11:41 PM | #259 | ||
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06-19-2018, 07:38 AM | #261 | |
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06-19-2018, 09:12 AM | #262 |
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Because if the car isn't tuned to support it, all that new, extra space isn't accounted for and essentially takes longer to spool/fill the boost chain. Imagine filling a 10 gal bucket at 1 gal/sec and then you upgrade to a 15 gal bucket but remain at 1 gal/sec.
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06-19-2018, 10:19 AM | #263 | |
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https://www.goapr.com/products/testi...tercooler.html Scroll down to where they are talking about fin design. |
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06-19-2018, 10:52 AM | #264 | |
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