[D041987]

Originally Posted by iamnofear

I'm glad to hear. So briefly: MHI turbo upgrade + GFB DV+ and Rod bolts and it should be fine. Thank you mate

And all the other supporting mods, Intercooler, Downpipe, Charge pipes, You might need a fuel pump if you want to run E mixtures with the bigger turbo but that will be on your tuner to decide what the duty level is on the stock pump etc. Other than that 1 step colder spark plugs and I think that should be it.

[M2_MEDUSA]

I'm pretty sure I'm 305-320whp. With mhi and rodbolts I should be 380

[iamnofear]

Originally Posted by D041987

And all the other supporting mods, Intercooler, Downpipe, Charge pipes, You might need a fuel pump if you want to run E mixtures with the bigger turbo but that will be on your tuner to decide what the duty level is on the stock pump etc. Other than that 1 step colder spark plugs and I think that should be it.

Yes I did have all of mods already. They are all on my signature
I dont have access to ethanol gas in my location. Here in my country gas is limited to E5 and A95 (RON91) only and the quality is suck.

[iamnofear]

I wonder Dinan and MHI which one is better for the nearly same price. My friend has brand new dinan have not installed yet and he decide to sell it b/c he will sell the car soon. I am thinking to buy it. What do you guy think?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by iamnofear

I wonder Dinan and MHI which one is better for the nearly same price. My friend has brand new dinan have not installed yet and he decide to sell it b/c he will sell the car soon. I am thinking to buy it. What do you guy think?

They're likely similar.

[D041987]

I would personally go with the MHI as its an entire assembly. I don't know about you guys but my flapper on the stock and on the replacement turbo was loose and rattled. BMW said it was designed that way... Almost all the BMW at the lot had that same rattle. Basically same as the N54 boys. I rather get a brand new assembly that was designed by MHI to tighter clearances and different materials that does not have a loose or rattling flapper. Also it's cheaper than Dinan.

[marcozen]

Awesome specs man ...Some questions below....

Setup so far:
Custom twinscroll Mani with a BW EFR 7670 turbo.

Did u lose the low end torque with these turbos ? What is your wtq ?

ARP upgraded Rod bolts for protection

So the connecting rods are still stock along with the pistons ?

Currently at around 380whp. Shooting for 420-450whp but my tuner says engine may let go if I push it without internals and tranny might let go as well.

Not a typo right ? Its NOT 280 ? Hehhehhe...

[Diegov209]

Hey guys so I talked to black market parts just to cut it short they said they are open to doing a port Injection for the n20 guys idk bout you but I want port injection lol

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by THbimmer

Hi Guys,


She is fun but im in interested in getting some more out of it! Currently looking at some CP Carrillo Piston and Con rods and a Turbo Upgrade.

This is my first post and thought it was a good thread to introduce myself!!

Hope to speak to you guys more soon.

U are using M3 Spark plugs ? Gapped at ?
Any issues so far ? Any reason you did not go for NGK Laser Iridium ones? Cost differences ?

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

if not all, con rods being thrown were due to the rod bolts stretching and breaking. The simple fix to push her a little more and give it more safety on the track comes with us replacing the rod bolts with stronger ones..

So just replacing the rod bolts are sufficient ? For 300+whp ? Use the stock connecting rods and stock pistons ?

[marcozen]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

As of right now, one other member has upgraded the rod bolts to ARP ones. The rod bolts put in our engines stretch several times during the torquing of them. While it's not bulletproof, the new bolts will provide another layer of protection and likely allow you to reach higher power numbers. Your rods are still the same old weak ones of course but as of this message, there are no none rods being thrown due to the rod itself snapping. It has always been a bolt breaking and then snapping a piece of the rod (Even then, it's usually the 'broken' cap).

Thanks for this gem of an info. I did not know this.
What are these ARP Part numbers for the N20? 2012 model ?

[marcozen]

Just finished reading all 11 pages of this thread ....
Hehhehehehe .... addicted ...


Such an awesome thread .. Thanks BunkerJ for starting this off

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by marcozen

So just replacing the rod bolts are sufficient ? For 300+whp ? Use the stock connecting rods and stock pistons ?

To our knowledge, yes. I can't say this would save you 100% in a time trial or extensive track time, but it should hold you up at the strip or on the highway. So far no issues on D's end.

Originally Posted by marcozen

Thanks for this gem of an info. I did not know this.
What are these ARP Part numbers for the N20? 2012 model ?

Noticed you got the link in the other thread, so won't reply.

[marcozen]

Thanks !

[R$28i]

Originally Posted by IssaF32

I have a 428xi

So since we're doing a build thread I'll go ahead and post mine since I'm also heavily modified on this platform.
I will be going over my modifications in detail and my experience as well as my experiences with different ethanol mixtures on stock pump and upgraded pump.

Mods:
Drop in air filter
Injen Intake
Wagner competition Evo 1 intercooler
VRSF Catless downpipes
Stage 2 fuel it low pressure fuel pump
NGK laser iridium plugs
Evolution Racewerks Chargepipe
Bootmod3 91 octane stage 2 tune
Pending E40% tune by ACF performance
Dinantronics sport+

first mod: was a drop in air filter from K&N
Not gonna gonna talk on this mod to much because I had it for about two weeks, this mod is about 50$ and honestly for the price it's well worth it. You car breathes much easier the stock one is paper and it's sort of restrictive and just not good in my opinion. As far as power goes you might see 2-3 on the dyno but this Intake is good for keeping temps down because the increased airflow. A immediate mod everyone should do whether ur planning on modding or not.

Second Mod: INJEN cold air Intake, This has completely transformed the character of my car. INJEN really nailed the Intake on the n20/6. This Intake is one of the most expensive you can buy for this model but well worth it. This thing is aggressive and it's loud af. This Intake can be heard the entire way throughout a parking structure. It's super easy to install took me about 45 minutes. It's so fun driving around every time you downshift or left off the gas around 3k rpm you hear a very aggressive pshhhhhhhh sound. When your on the gas it sucks in air and honestly it's preety aggressive and I turn a lot of heads. People know it's me cruising up before they even see my car because the sound. The girls love it too lol ? Dyno is I believe 13hp gain and you can really feel it. Must have Intake. It looks oem also so no worries with cops.

Third mod: Wagner Competition Evo 1 intercooler. This intercooler was created for cars meant to be track focused so the cooling benefits are unbelievable I'd recommend checking out Wagners graphs. It's leaps and bounds over the regular Wagner Evo 1 intercooler. When I installed this intercooler my throttle response was unbelievable. Don't know how it affected the throttle response but it's almost instant once I installed it. Temps never go above 240. It cruises around traffic at 190-215. When I do a ton of pulls it'll hit 240 but within about 30 seconds it dropped back down to 190-215. I've ran everything from upwards of multiple pulls in 90 degree weather to 145 mph holding it for about 5 solid miles. I've even hovered around 100-130 mph for about 30 minutes around corners accelerating and living in high rpms soon as I let off the gas 5 seconds go by and u can already see it ticking back down. Fitment was simple took me about 20 minutes to install. Remove 2 bolts from underneath stock pops out and boom Wagner pops in 2 bolts back in and boom drive off. You will feel a increasing in performance because of the cooling affects. Cold air is denser.

Third mod: Dinantronics sport+ Gonna keep this one short and simple, it takes 1 minute max to install its 299$ and man is it amazing for the price you pay. It manipulates only your boost by tripping a sensor to making it thing it's not getting enough boost. I've daily driven +4psi on 91. This thing I forget the actual numbers but it adds about 25whp. And man can you feel the difference. With dinantronics sport+ Injen Intake and Wagner comp intercooler, I was window to window with 335i 435i. These 3 mods will put you at 335i 435i numbers. But if money is your concern I would honestly start out with the dinantronics + it's amazing for 299$

Fourth Mod: VRSF Catless downpipes: These remove the restrictive cats in your stock downpipes. By doing this your increasing the airflow on the exhaust side and allowing your turbos and engine to breath more efficiently. Catless downpipes is probably one of the most effective and cost efficient modifications you can do. I'd pair Catless downpipes and the dinantronics sport + if your on a really tight budget. You will not be disappointed. You will see anywhere from 15-25whp just by upgrading to Catless downpipes. The fitment was extremely easy and perfect. Mechanic loved the ease of it all. You will receive a check engine light though but I wouldn't worry about it, your engine is fine if anything you made it better.

Fifth mod: Stage 2 fuel it lpfp: I got this mod because I plan on running a good amount of ethanol in this engine and be tuned for it. Problem is our stock fuel pump cannot handle anything over like e25 without having issues along the way, so I would just avoid it all together on the stock fuel pump. Ethanol makes a huge difference in terms of power. The octane is around 105 but downside is it burns a lot quicker so you lose mpg, but heyy racecar ???? on the upside it's around 2$ a gallon atleast in California haha. This fuel pump allows for 30% increase in fuel so when running a tune for ethanol it's able to pump more fuel into the engine to feed it, when you add more ethanol it needs to continuously pull more fuel because of how quick it burns. By getting a stage 2 fuelpump your able to assist that. The stock pump cannot handle the psi needed for ethanol delivery but the walbro stage 2 can.

Sixth mod: bootmod3 tune coupled with NGK laser iridium spark plugs gapped at .018 requested by the tuner. I'm not gonna speak to much on this subject because op explained it preety well, all I can say is it's worth the money.

Seventh mod: evolution Racewerks chargepipe: okay first things first, YES!! This is a perfect fitment with Wagner Comp EVO 1 intercooler. Fitment is perfect. This shouldn't net you much hp maybe a few because of the increased piping allowing more airflow but very minimal. The benefit of this is it's aluminum and aluminum dispels heat much quicker then plastic and unlike the plastic chargepipe it's known for breaking and bursting, fortuanetly for me I was running high boost all the time and never experienced any chargepipe issues with my stock one but it happens more often than not so I'd really upgrade this asap. This was a bitch to install because I had no idea what I was doing lmao and broke a vacuum line in the process but honestly it's not that hard.


So In closing I do not know my whp numbers, What i can tell you is how I stack up against other BMW's to give you a visual representation of what I'm putting down, on a stock 135/235/335/435 I'm pulling bus lengths on these guys with my setup. 35i are around 270-278whp. This is all on 91 pump. When ACF finishes my e40 tune through bm3 it'll be more drastic. End result is I'm preety confident I can take out a JB4 slightly modded 35i on 91. And I have not dyno' but once ACF finishes finalizing my tune this week I should be around 330wheel aswell as with OP.

Glad to see another modded 428xi! I'm currently also running Injen intake and VRSF catless but with a JB4, and MPE. Absolutely love this setup. Looking into DV+, Chargepipe, springs, and a flash tune next!

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

but it should hold you up at the strip or on the highway.

Are you implying the stock ones can't even take street use? I thought the rod bolts were more of a thing if you're tracking the car and that the stock ones were fine for street applications.

[nemobanks]

Originally Posted by D041987

I would personally go with the MHI as its an entire assembly. I don't know about you guys but my flapper on the stock and on the replacement turbo was loose and rattled. BMW said it was designed that way... Almost all the BMW at the lot had that same rattle. Basically same as the N54 boys. I rather get a brand new assembly that was designed by MHI to tighter clearances and different materials that does not have a loose or rattling flapper. Also it's cheaper than Dinan.

You only upgraded your rod bolts ?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Are you implying the stock ones can't even take street use? I thought the rod bolts were more of a thing if you're tracking the car and that the stock ones were fine for street applications.

Can the stock ones take 400whp on the street? Who knows. The reason why rod bolts are being replaced first (aside from being easy) is because guys were pushing 330-350whp on the track and breaking rod bolts left and right. That's due to the immense heat.

Now add more power on top of that and take it to the street. It's entirely possible that stock ones could hold up but they're a very, very cheap solution to a potential issue that could be created. I mean, if you'd like to be the first tester to push that much power on stock rod bolts, you're more than welcome to. Contribute to science!

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Can the stock ones take 400whp on the street? Who knows. The reason why rod bolts are being replaced first (aside from being easy) is because guys were pushing 330-350whp on the track and breaking rod bolts left and right. That's due to the immense heat.

Now add more power on top of that and take it to the street. It's entirely possible that stock ones could hold up but they're a very, very cheap solution to a potential issue that could be created. I mean, if you'd like to be the first tester to push that much power on stock rod bolts, you're more than welcome to. Contribute to science!

Thanks for the kind offer but I'll pass Anyway, understood, thanks.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Thanks for the kind offer but I'll pass Anyway, understood, thanks.

Yeah, sorry I can't give a straightforward answer. We've only seen guys blow up on the track around 350whp (Unless someone has on the street and didn't speak up on the forums). We need test subjects!

[fcbrandon]

It's my understanding the power tolerances for internals (and all driveline components) are measured by torque, not horsepower (Which is why the tranny are torque limited, no HP limited). I've seen other, similar platforms get larger HP numbers by controlling max torque carefully, throughout the rev range. Looking at the math, if we can get a turbo to produce 320ft-lb at 6500 rpm, we'll be knocking right up on 400hp (theoretically >400hp at 6700). Horsepower is just a calculation of torque at a given rpm.

I'm guessing folks are saying failure at x-HP is due to a higher torque at the given failure RPM?

Has anyone tried something like a GT3076, or other higher flowing turbo, other than a modified stock unit? I haven't seen anybody selling manifolds, so I'm guessing, at the very least, it's not a common upgrade path.

[ilivas]

It’s more along the line of cylinder pressures and detonation. A motor can produce XXXX hp at this boost, AFR, EGT, timing with this fuel. Once you start exceeding what’s safe, you start running into trouble. It’s best to look at it like that vs an actual number. Especially since dynos can be very different. I’m still new to this platform but it appears that 350whp is around what people can get on pump gas safely. I haven’t yet seen anyone doing race fuel.