06-12-2018, 02:01 PM | #89 | |
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The Miata DIY guide I had was very simple with detailed pictures and arrows with torque numbers overlayed. I was just making sure I wasn't missing a fancier "easy" to read document to follow. The Kies video is perfect for my minimal level of expertise, but had he mentioned torque values on each bolt as he removed it, I would have felt a lot more comfortable tackling the job. I understand I am basically asking for an easy button and should just pay someone to do it, but I enjoy working on my car when I'm confident I can complete the task and not get stuck in the middle. |
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07-31-2018, 09:53 PM | #90 |
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That spring compressor won't work on the M perf suspension. I just tried I can't find a way to get it to clear the massive top hat and compress the spring enough
Last edited by zinner; 07-31-2018 at 10:12 PM.. |
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08-01-2018, 11:40 AM | #91 |
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08-01-2018, 02:05 PM | #92 |
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Well I just was reading that Polo compressed with the top hat on. It worked like a charm. I spent about an hour and a half trying different methods, then I took it to a Firestone and they couldn't get it on either. There machine didn't have enough range of motion.
Here is how you do it folks. There are bosses (I think that is the correct word) that you place the upper jaws on. It felt solid and didn't move as I compressed it about 5 turns alternating per side. Last edited by zinner; 08-01-2018 at 02:13 PM.. |
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Onizukachan1450.00 charlie fairmont500.00 |
08-27-2018, 08:22 AM | #93 |
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I need to replace my passenger side trailing arm/thrust arm/ tension arm or whatever its called. Does anyone think its possible to do this in my garage or would a lift be required?
How hard it it to reach the bolt on the subframe without a lift?
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02-09-2019, 09:00 PM | #94 |
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Im doing my research on upgrading the springs on my 18 f30 320i. I notice in some of the manuals it says to replace hardware. Where can I find a list of all the hardware this job requires? Maybe a exploded view or something?
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02-11-2019, 02:35 AM | #95 | |
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Enter VIN and get every bolt on your car. |
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09-28-2020, 03:12 PM | #97 | |
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Heres what worked for me. Once I got the bolt to pass through one side and through the rubber bushing, I used the socket and extension to manipulate the bolt to line up and then had a second person tap the end of the socket extension to get it to pass through. Wasn't easy. |
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03-11-2021, 03:50 PM | #99 |
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question:....do i reaaaaallY have to do this? i mean...........i assume i do. But do i really?
Yes, you should do that. Think about the control arm or the thrust arm , one end is rubber bushing and the other end is ball joint, for the ball joint side, it move freely, however for the rubber bushing side, the center of the bushing is fixed by bolt and nut, the outer of the bushing is the arm body which turn with car moveing up and down creating twisting action in the rubber bushing, to eliminate the twist and prolong the life of the rubber bushing, it should be tighten with car at ridge height position . I have a question, when the strut put back into the knuckle / bearing housing, how to know the correct position height ? There is no marking on the strut showing how far to “slide” into the knuckle ? |
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03-11-2021, 04:56 PM | #100 |
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It is vital to re-torque the suspension components after changing the suspension height. Bilstein instructions are literally to the point. Just do it and avoid future problems.
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04-12-2021, 04:16 PM | #101 | ||
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04-29-2021, 05:33 AM | #102 |
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Definitely doing a lowering very soon. Just deciding on what springs to use and whether I'll like it in the end. If anyone has any used h&r, eibach lowered springs they're willing to sell hit me up
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04-30-2021, 01:23 PM | #103 | |
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The only thing I can think of why Bilstein recommends stress relief when changing ride height is that, assuming a car is on level surface, the control arm is parallel with the ground and hence no constant application of twist to the chassis-side bushing. When the chassis is lowered, again assuming a level surface, the control arm is no longer parallel with the ground. On the wheel side of the control arm, the control arm is higher than on the chassis side of the control arm. This would put a constant stress on the bushing as opposed to a temporary stress. That seems to be what Bilstein is getting at but maybe it's something else.
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09-09-2021, 11:41 AM | #104 |
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Finally found this thread!
It's been hard to find/confirm the torque specs for the front subframe bolts and didn't want to go with "tight enough". The PDF details are like gold. Thank you! Great info and conversations, too. |
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11-07-2021, 07:40 AM | #105 | |
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