[brigade24]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Do you have a link for that or are you referencing the tools referenced in ISTA?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nsion/HKiFvVNT

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nsion/HKeT7vfk

I believe you can convert the ISTA tool part number by prefixing it with 8330.

For example, if ISTA referenced tool # 0492397.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ension/5OHeawD

You would convert it to a BMW part number by changing it to 83300492397.

https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...10-83300492397

This is the tool I am referring too...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yFAjbJoayJXm5qgp7

I am trying to find the link for it...there is similar one on amazon but not as complete as the one I am showing.

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by cjlane

I spent over an hour at my local tire store trying to get them to order me 245/35/19 for my 8.5"wide wheel (considered a very conservative fitment by most). They could not grasp that I had done a bit of research and new they would fit fine even if it isnt oem fitment. I only bothered becasue they were going to sell me PS4S for $236/tire installed.

Impressive how some like to stay in there perpetual sand box...if they bothered to check tire rack's site they would have seen that the 245-35-19 PS4S was measured on...you guessed it, an 8.5" wide wheel

I am running 245s right now on 8" wide wheels...I have been autoxing this setup for awhile too...no issues.

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Do you have a link for that or are you referencing the tools referenced in ISTA?

Here is the link to the tool I was referring too...

https://www.amazon.com/ECCPP-Univers...-1-spons&psc=1

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by brigade24

Here is the link to the tool I was referring too...

https://www.amazon.com/ECCPP-Univers...-1-spons&psc=1

Seems like it would be a good time to install a rear sway bar if you have the rear subframe dropped at that time, correct?

Any opinions on the OEM BMW 15mm rear sway bar that's found on the M235i over the 13mm OEM BMW rear sway bar that's found on the 335i RWD M Sport (704 Sport Suspension)?

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Seems like it would be a good time to install a rear sway bar if you have the rear subframe dropped at that time, correct?

Any opinions on the OEM BMW 15mm rear sway bar that's found on the M235i over the 13mm OEM BMW rear sway bar that's found on the 335i RWD M Sport (704 Sport Suspension)?

YES! it is an excellent time to install a rear sway bar. I run the dinan bars...19mm in the back which I think is plenty for autox. Assuming it will fit, 15mm might be enough but I cannot speak to it. if you went with the 15mm bar, and decide its not enough there are other ways to tighten up the rear...without out dropping the subframe. My logic is that a bigger rear bar will do a better job keeping the inside wheel down. If I need more grip, I can take out compression or put in softer springs which is substantial less work. Bigger rear bar also helps me with turn-in grip which is important since I'm in an xdrive car.

[Brady154]

Originally Posted by brigade24

https://photos.app.goo.gl/K9ruSZiuUL4uJCcY9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pyyMZVtqTu8voQTo9

You will need a 3" threaded pipe and a cap (receiver). 4" inches in length if possible, but 5" or 6" will also work but you will just need more space. 1/2 inch threaded rod cut to about 16" or so (depends on the length of your receiver) I used a 6" threaded pipe and needed about 16"-17" of 1/2 threaded rod to do the removal and install. Note the extra length is for the install. You will need a way to "lock" the rod in place while driving out/in the bushings so I recommend using a double nut on either end (I put double nuts on both ends for flexibility in case I ran out of *******. you will notice in the pic I use a long threaded collar to apply pressure at the base of the cap. this is so you use the maximum amount of threading to prevent stripping of the 1/2" rod. It is in your best interest to lubricate the threaded rod with wd40, pb blast or whatever derivative you have access to.

After the third bushing, the rod snap...

A word of caution. should you choose to perform the installation yourself, you will discover that male pattern baldness is NOT hereditary!! You have been warned!

I found that the simplest way to remove the old bushings is to burn them out. the exterior of the bushing is lined with plastic so you just need to melt off one section to release the pressure and then hammer it out.

God help us all.

So, I finally got around to replacing those subframe bushings. I bought one of those universal bushing removal kits for $100 on Amazon. It did not work on removal, because the largest cylinder in the kit was a bit too small. I finally used a sawzall to cut around the rubber in the middle of the stock bushings. Then the center part with the metal insert just fell out. After that, I hammered a large screw driver between the subframe and the outer plastic ring of the bushing. Then I was able to break the plastic ring and the rest of the bushing fell out. The universal kit did work to press the new solid aluminum bushings into place.

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by Brady154

So, I finally got around to replacing those subframe bushings. I bought one of those universal bushing removal kits for $100 on Amazon. It did not work on removal, because the largest cylinder in the kit was a bit too small. I finally used a sawzall to cut around the rubber in the middle of the stock bushings. Then the center part with the metal insert just fell out. After that, I hammered a large screw driver between the subframe and the outer plastic ring of the bushing. Then I was able to break the plastic ring and the rest of the bushing fell out. The universal kit did work to press the new solid aluminum bushings into place.

The plastic part of the bushings has a lip that covers the subframes metal casing at the bottom so it is challenging to push them out from the top because you cant get a receiving cup over the lip. That's why I burned them out but you gotta be careful...lots of plastic and rubber Under there...

did the installation of the aluminium bushings alter the ride height in the rear ?

[Brady154]

Originally Posted by brigade24

The plastic part of the bushings has a lip that covers the subframes metal casing at the bottom so it is challenging to push them out from the top because you cant get a receiving cup over the lip. That's why I burned them out but you gotta be careful...lots of plastic and rubber Under there...

did the installation of the aluminium bushings alter the ride height in the rear ?

No, I don't think it changed the ride height. The Ohlins Road and Track lowered it a bit though. I took the car to MSR Houston and it did very well. Next up is the LSD.

[DVC]

Originally Posted by brigade24

Impressive how some like to stay in there perpetual sand box...if they bothered to check tire rack's site they would have seen that the 245-35-19 PS4S was measured on...you guessed it, an 8.5" wide wheel

I am running 245s right now on 8" wide wheels...I have been autoxing this setup for awhile too...no issues.

I usually order tires online, and I don't even indicate what car they're for anymore, as I've been sandbagged in the past (delayed order while trying to contact me to confirm fitment, and ended up almost not getting them in time for a track event)

I guess this is to be expected when I'm running 18x10 wheels with 275mm tires on an F30...

[Brady154]

Can the OP or anyone else give some ride height recommendations for the F30? I'm starting to mess with my toe, camber, and ride height. I have no idea what I'm doing. 😂

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Brady154

Can the OP or anyone else give some ride height recommendations for the F30? I'm starting to mess with my toe, camber, and ride height. I have no idea what I'm doing. 😂

Keep a finger or two of gap between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender front and rear and you'll be good. The rake is about perfect on these cars; when I looked at corner weights for a corner balance, the car was pretty much perfect without any adjustments.

[Brady154]

Originally Posted by DVC

Keep a finger or two of gap between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender front and rear and you'll be good. The rake is about perfect on these cars; when I looked at corner weights for a corner balance, the car was pretty much perfect without any adjustments.

Great! Thank you very much. This car is about to go full track, so I'm looking for a new daily. Probably get another 335, so I have spares. lol

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Brady154

Great! Thank you very much. This car is about to go full track, so I'm looking for a new daily. Probably get another 335, so I have spares. lol

Hahaha - I like the way you think! Keep us posted on your progress...

Oh, and by the way... The car feels great with zero tow in the front (or even 1/16th or so tow out), and about -3.0° camber. In the back, -2.0° camber, and 2 or 3/32nds of rear tow in is plenty.

[Brady154]

Originally Posted by DVC

Hahaha - I like the way you think! Keep us posted on your progress...

Oh, and by the way... The car feels great with zero tow in the front (or even 1/16th or so tow out), and about -3.0° camber. In the back, -2.0° camber, and 2 or 3/32nds of rear tow in is plenty.

That's great. I'll start with those numbers. Thank you very much.

[Brady154]

Originally Posted by DVC

I usually order tires online, and I don't even indicate what car they're for anymore, as I've been sandbagged in the past (delayed order while trying to contact me to confirm fitment, and ended up almost not getting them in time for a track event)

I guess this is to be expected when I'm running 18x10 wheels with 275mm tires on an F30...

Would you mind sharing which 18x10 wheels and the offset you got? Also, did you have to roll the fenders or anything to get the 275s to work? This mod is on my short list. The LSD is going in very soon

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Brady154

Would you mind sharing which 18x10 wheels and the offset you got? Also, did you have to roll the fenders or anything to get the 275s to work? This mod is on my short list. The LSD is going in very soon

DVC will chime in but I'm nearly positive he had to roll the fenders to fit the wheels/tires.

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Brady154

Would you mind sharing which 18x10 wheels and the offset you got? Also, did you have to roll the fenders or anything to get the 275s to work? This mod is on my short list. The LSD is going in very soon

Yup, as Polo said, I had to do some rolling/pulling of the front and rear fenders... Hard to tell unless you look close, but it definitely made some more room. My 18x9.5 et35 Apex ARC-8s with 265mm RE-71Rs cleared without rubbing with -3.0° front and -2.0° rear camber. But the 18x10 et33 Bimmerworld TE:AL TA16s with 275mm RE-71Rs seemed much bigger than just 1/2"!! On paper they should have worked, but perhaps the Bimmerworld wheels are a little bigger in the metal than Apex wheels....

[Brady154]

Originally Posted by DVC

Yup, as Polo said, I had to do some rolling/pulling of the front and rear fenders... Hard to tell unless you look close, but it definitely made some more room. My 18x9.5 et35 Apex ARC-8s with 265mm RE-71Rs cleared without rubbing with -3.0° front and -2.0° rear camber. But the 18x10 et33 Bimmerworld TE:AL TA16s with 275mm RE-71Rs seemed much bigger than just 1/2"!! On paper they should have worked, but perhaps the Bimmerworld wheels are a little bigger in the metal than Apex wheels....

This has me wondering if I should just keep it simple and go with the 265s on 9.5 wheels. Is there a noticeable performance advantage with the 275s compared to the 265s?

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Brady154

This has me wondering if I should just keep it simple and go with the 265s on 9.5 wheels. Is there a noticeable performance advantage with the 275s compared to the 265s?

I would agree that 9.5s are the practical fitment limit. But that said, I am VERY happy with the 18x10s and 275s... They do give the car noticably more grip.
I doubt there's much difference between 265s and 275s on a 9.5" wheel though.

[Brady154]

Originally Posted by DVC

I would agree that 9.5s are the practical fitment limit. But that said, I am VERY happy with the 18x10s and 275s... They do give the car noticably more grip.
I doubt there's much difference between 265s and 275s on a 9.5" wheel though.

Looks like I'll go with 275s on 10 inch wheels then. I'm trying to get the most performance I can.

Sorry to ask so many questions, but why did you go with the BimmerWorld TE:AL TA16 Forged Race Wheel - 18" (ET33) instead of the APEX ARC-8 18x10" ET25? The Apex are cheaper, but will that offset not work?

[mcintoshf30]

Originally Posted by DVC

This post made me sit up in my seat and smile.... nice to see others running the EWG N55 335i hard : ) We should talk....

[IMG]https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorspor...%2016x9-XL.jpg[/IMG]

Hell yeah.. 2014 EWG xdrive here... big plans Sitting on 437M's so 275 rears 255 front.. M sport brakes too

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Brady154

Looks like I'll go with 275s on 10 inch wheels then. I'm trying to get the most performance I can.

Sorry to ask so many questions, but why did you go with the BimmerWorld TE:AL TA16 Forged Race Wheel - 18" (ET33) instead of the APEX ARC-8 18x10" ET25? The Apex are cheaper, but will that offset not work?

Awesome! It takes a good bit of work to make 275s on 10" wheels fit, but I think it's the sweet spot for a car this size/weight. Going any further with a square setup would require new fenders or some serious bodywork/repainting.

I've had two sets of Apex ARC-8s, and they've been great, bulletproof wheels. But I wanted to try something a little different for the next set, so I was on the fence between Apex SM-10s and the Bimmerworld wheels. Even the ARC-8s (which Apex recommends more for lighter cars) have proven to be really tough, so I'm sure the SM-10s are more than up the job of handling the abuse I'll put them through. But of course the BW wheels, which are forged on a 10k ton press, are in another league of strength. Also, in 18x10 et33, the BW wheels are about a pound lighter than the SM-10s, so I figured I'd take the plunge for another $80/wheel and get what I really wanted.

By the way, Apex and BW both offer their 18x10 wheels in both et33 and et25. But for a square setup, et25 would be a much bigger challenge to fit, as it would require another 5/16" clearance to the fender over the et33...which would be asking a lot in the back. In the front, it could be made to fit, as the front fenders are much more willing to be rolled/pulled (and I needed a 5mm spacer in the front to clear the strut properly anyway, so it would really only be another 3mm). But in the back, there's plenty of strut clearance, but the fenders are a real challenge.