06-19-2019, 09:35 AM | #1 |
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First time clay bar + Wax?
Hey all,
First time f30 owner here and I'm looking to properly wax my car. Honestly-prior to purchasing this car recently I never even considered the damage automatic car washes do to your car. Since then, I've hand washed the car twice using the 2 bucket method, which I enjoyed. However, it needs a good wax. I purchased meguiars complete car kit which included a clay bar and liquid carnuba wax, but I honestly have no idea how to use either of them correctly and I'd like to avoid damaging my paint. Can someone please explain the process? Do I clay the car after I wash and dry, but prior to waxing? Also-how do I use the clay bar correctly? Just a once over? Regarding wax-do I do it immediately after I clay? This is what im thinking. please correct me if im wrong 1. Wash 2. Dry 3. clay bar 4. apply wax with foam pad 5. wipe wax off with microfiber towel? |
06-19-2019, 09:47 AM | #2 |
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try posting in this section if the following threads don't address your question: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=427
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1467905 https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1256440 https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1614241 https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1026127 |
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06-19-2019, 09:48 AM | #3 | |
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The actual claying, go lightly at first and listen for the "whish-whish" sound which tells you you're picking up contaminants. With a standard clay bar, it takes a while to do the whole car (though it's worth it). Don't drop the piece of clay you're using. If you do, discard it; it's too contaminated. Chemical Guys website offers some clay blocks that cover a bit more territory with each pass. I used one when I first clayed and waxed my 328i, and it works quite well. I usually insert a step in your list, "glaze or polish" before the "apply wax." The glaze/polish fills very fine scratches and makes for an even smoother waxing surface. Between major waxings (twice a year if I'm lucky in this foul climate), you can use a wax-as-you-dry spray after rinsing the car each week at the $2.00 wash. To a great degree it keeps the protection and shine up. Then keep a bottle of quick detailer and a clean microfiber towel in the trunk. When you see contaminants like bird crap or tree sap, clean it off as soon as you can. That stuff can eat through your clear coat. After rinsing the car's wheels, dry them before you move the car. Brake dust loves to stick to damp wheels. Others will have more pro advice. Enjoy the process! Last edited by Wolfus Aurelius; 06-20-2019 at 10:08 AM.. |
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06-19-2019, 10:03 AM | #5 |
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Don't clay bar unless you absolutely need to. It's not something you should be doing often.
When you do, make sure you lubricate with detailing spray before running the bar across the paint. You'll want to fix up your clear coat with some compound before waxing. |
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06-19-2019, 10:11 AM | #6 |
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thanks. Can you explain what it is claying actually does? If I have a scuff on the front bumper (barely noticeable) would it be advised to clay + wax, or just wax?
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06-19-2019, 10:12 AM | #7 |
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Generally, you would want to do at least a light polish after the clay bar, and before the wax, since claying tends to induce light marring on the clearcoat. There are plenty of good all-in-ones out there that can fill in that gap. To determine whether you need to clay, use the baggie test. Once you wash and dry the car, feel the paint using the back of your hand. Then, put your hand in a small Ziploc bag and you can feel the difference; it picks up all of the minor imperfections.
A proper detail would include wash, clay, (something like iron-x is optional), polish, then wax or sealant. I'd always recommend a sealant over a wax, however, since they are much more durable and last longer. To clay bar, you just make sure to spray plenty of lubricant on the paint, like a quick detailer spray, then run a piece of the clay across, picking up the imperfections. You keep working the clay and folding it in so that whatever is picked up doesn't get dragged back along the next section. Once it's been folded over enough, toss that piece and use a new piece of clay. Likewise, you can use a clay mitt, which is what I prefer, since it's a bit easier and quicker to do. You'll still most likely need a light polish afterwards. But whatever you do, do not run clay on your paint dry. Then you'll need something with a heavier cut, like a compound. Once you are done, top it off with a good sealant or ceramic coating and enjoy. |
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06-19-2019, 10:14 AM | #8 | |
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There is no harm done with detail clay as it simply grabs/removes contaminants on the paints surface, no abrasion, etc. issues with clay. |
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06-19-2019, 12:13 PM | #9 | |
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To Phizz, I've used Mother's Glaze for a few years. It's like a liquid wax in a bottle. The instructions say to apply a thin coat and work it into the paint a little bit before buffing it off. My bottle is nearly empty, though, so before I polish/glaze again I may purchase something else. Some members here think highly of the products Chemical Guys sells; some don't. Almost anything with the Meguiar's name on it is good stuff and can be found at local auto supply places like PepBoys and AutoZone. What color is your 328? Mine is gold ("Orion Silver Metallic"), which doesn't show dust or fine scratches. Dark colors are another can of worms entirely, but gorgeous when they're clean. |
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06-19-2019, 02:01 PM | #10 |
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Before you buy more wax, I'd highly suggest looking into Wolfgang High Gloss Paint Sealant. It goes on and wipes off similarly to wax, but it'll last longer and protect better. Most paint sealants will be a more durable product. And personally, I think it provides a deeper, wet look too. You can't buy it at the local auto parts store but you can order it online.
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06-19-2019, 03:09 PM | #11 | |
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The Autogeek website mentions, though, that you need to let it cure without moisture for 12 hours after applying. The very air here is so humid even in what's supposed to be cooler weather that the stuff might not do well for me. And I have no covered parking or garage. |
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06-19-2019, 06:14 PM | #12 |
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It works well on all colors light or dark. I use it on all our vehicles and my bike, all are different colors. Just like wax, you'd probably want to polish it first if you have swirls in the paint, but it's no different than what you'd do before applying wax.
You are correct in that it works best with a 12 hour cure time. |
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06-20-2019, 09:06 AM | #13 |
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It removes particles that become embedded in your clear coat. If you spray some lubricant on your paint and run your finger across it, after a long enough time, your paint will feel gritty when it should feel smooth. Clay bar lifts all of that up.
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06-20-2019, 10:33 AM | #14 | |
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However, if I plan on waxing and paint does not feel smooth after normal wash I use first a solvent product designed to remove stuff like tar and such, then if paint is still not smooth then I use clay. |
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06-20-2019, 08:22 PM | #15 |
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2 times a year I will clay my entire car. Coming out of winter and right before heading into winter. I just don't have the time to clay bar every wash, but that is just me. Personally a good heavy wash and wax does the trick to keep it nice and shiny.
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06-20-2019, 08:26 PM | #16 |
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And you shouldn't have to - your plan is a good one. Claying can mar the paint surface, necessitating polishing, which removes your clear coat. If your car is not outside a lot, you won't need to clay.
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06-20-2019, 08:31 PM | #17 |
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may have been stated, but make sure you use LOTS of lubricant. if you run any area without any sort of lubricant, you'll mar the surface. just becomes a hassle. especially over edges! honestly, if i had the time...i'd sit, clean, polish, buffer, clay, wax and coat all day long. it's a great feeling to have a clean car that's properly sealed. ENJOY!
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06-22-2019, 05:11 AM | #18 | ||
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1. Wash 2. Dry 3. clay bar 4. wash 5. dry 6. apply wax with foam pad 7. wipe wax off with microfiber towel Quote:
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