10-19-2019, 04:14 PM | #728 |
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I recently purchased the 10.25" Avin Android 9.0 screen, installed it yesterday in my 13' f30 with CIC (6 pin connector). I like it so far, big upgrade from my basic 6.5" screen without nav. I have a few questions
1. I got the backup camera with it but have yet to install it. Are there any tutorials on how to wire in the backup camera. Not sure what's the easiest route to run the wire from the trunk to the head unit. 2. I got the Bluetooth CarPlay adapter, however it is very slow to connect to my iPhone. The music stops when I switch into reverse and when I listen to messages. Sometimes the music won't resume after this which is extremely annoying and I will have to disconnect and reconnect. Sometimes that doesn't even work and I will have to shutoff the car and restart it. Is there anyway to prevent the CarPlay music from stopping when I go into reverse? 3.I would really like the CarPlay to work well as it shows the album artwork, reads my messages and the sound quality seems better. I much prefer the CarPlay display over the regular display, if there's a way to make the screen default to CarPlay on start up that would be great. 4. I bought the OBD adapter with the screen however I haven't figured out to view any of the outputs. I would like to see what the cars putting out for boost pressure. Do I need to install an app for this? 5. Using the speedometer feature the mph is off around 20-30mph, any way to fix this? 6. There is a weird static sound coming through the speakers when I start my car for the first 10-15 seconds, any idea what would be causing this? 7. Is there a way to decrease the night time brightness? Help with any of these questions would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance. |
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10-19-2019, 04:46 PM | #729 | |
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BTW, the speedometer, afaict, is measuring KM/h, which is why it's off - super annoying. |
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10-19-2019, 05:02 PM | #730 | |
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10-19-2019, 07:02 PM | #731 | ||
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Do you know if there's a way to change from Km/hr to mph? |
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10-19-2019, 07:06 PM | #732 | ||
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10-20-2019, 04:23 AM | #733 | |
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There are 3 wires you should connect, 1. The yellow rca cable, this is the simple one, it connects to the backup camera, and to the backup camera in plug on the head unit. 2. The trigger wire, there should be a red cable coming from the yellow rca cable, you can use that for it, the way you wire this up i'll discuss later. 3. The camera 12+ wire, you need to route an additional cable along with the yellow rca cable for this. This will provide the 12v to the camera. On the headunit you can now connect the wires I mentioned. Once you removed the trunk lining, you should now have some wiring harnesses and your 3 wires, the yellow rca as mentioned you can easily connect. You now have the additional power plug for the camera (with a red and black wire), the red wire from the yellow rca cable and your trigger wire (the one you routed along the yellow rca). Connect the wire you routed along with the yellow rca to the red wire that goes to the camera plug (the plug which has the black and red wire). This will power the camera since you connected it to the camera 12+ wire on the head unit. Now you will have to connect the black wire and the trigger wire. On the right tail light, you have your connector plug, on the pre-lci models it will consist of 4 wires. The ones you are after are the black/blue and the brown one for ground (found the info here. If you have a screw somewhere in the trunk lid which has exposed metal, you can use that to ground as well instead of the brown wire. I used the brown wire. Splice into those 2 wires so you can make your connections. I used something like this but I wouldn't recommend it since it's difficult for the contacts to stay together and they will clamps your wire which isn't that great for the electrical stands inside them, but it does get the job done. Now comes the tricky part. Bmw uses a 5v signal to check if the reverse light is still functioning, I can not guarantee this info is correct since I read it somewhere on a forum without any documentation to back it. Anyway, the 5v won't light up the taillight since it's a halogen bulb, but it will trigger the headunit to show the reverse camera. I tested the threshold of the trigger wire and it seems to be somewhere around 3v. I created a voltage divider with 2 resistors and therefor now have a signal of around 4 v. If you are not familiar with voltage dividers i recommend to google it, it's quite simple. Some people use a relay, which is mechanical, since it will only trigger from around 7v. But it's a bulky overkill solution with moving parts. So I created the voltage divider with resistor 1 at 10k ohms, and resister 2 at 5k ohms. this gives me the following formula (5k ohm/ (5k ohm + 10k ohm)) * 12v = 4v. If we do the same for the 5v signal we have 1.7v. which is too low to trigger the backup camera. I installed this voltage divider yesterday and have to drive the car some more to get a decent conclusion but it seems to work fine. To just test the camera without the voltage divider, you can connect the trigger wire directly to the blue/black wire on the taillights, you should now have the camera turning on when you put it in reverse. If you use the voltage divider, you use the blue/black wire as the voltage IN, you connect the wire after the 2nd resistor to the brown wire or alternative ground spot, and the wire between resistor 1 and resistor 2 to the trigger wire going to the headunit. I used a little pcb prototype board for this (something like this), but that's not required, I just didn't want any strain on the resistors. I hope I was clear enough, if you have any questions shoot. I can't guarantee for this method to cancel the 5v triggered backup camera issue, I still need to thoroughly test this myself, but I think it should work. Good luck! |
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10-20-2019, 10:09 AM | #734 | |
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Both files are completely different. I can't find eventcenter.apk anywhere in the Snapdragon OTA zip. I downloaded eventcenter.apk and had a look to see if I could find the mapping values. In class 'com.szchoiceway.eventcenter.EventService' the following method is handling the inputs: Code:
private void onCmdKSW0x00_0xA1_0x17Event(byte[] bydata) { [...] } Code:
EventService.this.iCanCar_button = bydata[5] & 255; Code:
} else if (EventService.this.iCanCar_button == 7) { EventService.this.receive_can_key_time = 0; EventService.this.iCAN_RECE_BUTTON_FLAG = 0; if (EventService.this.m_iModeSet == 9 || (EventService.this.m_iModeSet == 9 && SysProviderOpt.m_bSupportFocusMove)) { // Removed for readability } else if (EventService.this.bCarplayResume) { EventService.this.sendKeyDownUpSync(1501); } else { // Removed for readability if (EventService.this.ksw_m_b_amap_auto_front) { EventService.this.ksw_send_amap_auto(false); } else if (b_Customize_Resum4) { EventService.this.sendKeyDownUpSync(21); } else { Intent itt4 = new Intent(EventUtils.ZXW_ORIGINAL_MCU_KEY_FOCUS_MOVE_EVT); if (EventService.this.bIsAutoKit) { itt4.putExtra(EventUtils.ZXW_ORIGINAL_MCU_KEY_FOCUS_MOVE_DATA, 1); } else { itt4.putExtra(EventUtils.ZXW_ORIGINAL_MCU_KEY_FOCUS_MOVE_DATA, 7); } itt4.putExtra(EventUtils.ZXW_ORIGINAL_MCU_KEY_FOCUS_MOVE_THIRD_PARTY_DATA, 7); EventService.this.sendBroadcast(itt4); } } EventService.this.iCanCar_button = 0; return; } Not all values seem to be handled though, so I can't gather enough do to a proper mapping. But: What should be generally possible is to just hook the method using Xposed and do the reading ourselves. This way we could even avoid the broadcast entirely which should decrease latency even further. Once I have my unit I will do some more research and tests. But this is definitely doable. |
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10-20-2019, 10:37 AM | #735 | |
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I wish I had the knowledge to support you. If you accomplish that we will have an entirely complete headunit. Thank you for your efforts. I will root my unit to have this function. I you need testers count on me. I have a CCC Android 8 unit px6. |
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10-20-2019, 11:28 AM | #736 |
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If someone has the time and knowledge:
Code:
adb shell shell# logcat --pid=$(pidof -s com.szchoiceway.eventcenter) |
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10-20-2019, 12:06 PM | #737 | |
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10-20-2019, 01:05 PM | #738 |
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Maybe to some extent, RaceX58 mentioned he did something with Automate.
But to the best of my knowledge this will never work by design. Technically you are controlling an app from another process which is a huge security issue. So you need at least elevated permissions (i.e. root). |
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10-20-2019, 01:58 PM | #739 |
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Hey guys. I'm currently running ID4 NBT_HU (non EVO) with 8.8 inch display and NAV in my 2014 335i xDrive. I was looking to upgrade to one of these units but I'm unfamiliar with what is required. Do you just purchase the unit and replace the 8.8 with this one? Which one do you guys recommend?
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10-20-2019, 03:13 PM | #740 | |
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You should be aware though that it still is a Chinese unit with Chinese software, so it will have some quirks, nothing that you can't overcome or reconfigure with software, but it's not a pioneer or alpine unit regarding user experience. |
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10-20-2019, 03:38 PM | #741 | ||
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10-20-2019, 03:49 PM | #742 |
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Can't say that I have any knowledge about that. I don't think that if you use the stock navigation that you would lose that function. The screen is just a pass through for the original headunit and a layer of Android on top of that. But I can't confirm this theory. Maybe someone else has experience with this.
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10-20-2019, 04:48 PM | #744 |
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You are referring to the CAN cable which has no connection? This is normal. In fact, the purple CAN B and CAN C are the same in this harness, they are connected together in the other end.
Last edited by Mjam; 10-20-2019 at 05:12 PM.. |
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10-20-2019, 06:54 PM | #745 | |
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10-20-2019, 07:19 PM | #746 |
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Your Quadlock connector, the big black connector to the Head Unit, should flush perfectly. Take it out again, inspect the pins, make sure all are lined up as they should. Push and wiggle a bit to make the connector get into place. Do not use excessive force.
Edit: I cannot see from your picture if the Quadlock connector itself is not flush, or just the clamp. Last edited by Mjam; 10-20-2019 at 07:27 PM.. |
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10-20-2019, 09:43 PM | #747 |
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I have just installed a Naviodm unit that I bought from Aliexpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3305...1ce34c4dNi5NCb). The unit arrived quickly and they were easy to deal with. I ordered the Carplay and Android Auto adapter too but they msg me and said they will send me a unit with it built-in.
No instructions arrived with the unit but they did email me instructions upon request. Not much use to be honest. Didn't tell me anything that I couldn't tell by looking at the screen. Nothing in the instructions about the installation process. Everything seems to be working (except questions below), including sound without need to run Aux cable to the armrest and yes, my car has HK sound system. Initially, I didn't get sound but I pulled it apart again and found that the Aux cable in the harness had disconnected when I pushed the OEM box in. I reconnected and taped the connectors, to be sure. Two questions for the forum: 1) I am getting a "Please insert SIM card and restart". I have tried three different SIMs in Australia (Optus, Telstra and Vodafone). Which way is the sim card inserted? When looking at the back of the unit, my sim and SD card slots are on the right. I believe the top slot is SIM as it has a sticker pointing to it. Again when looking at the back of the unit, when inserting the sim, is the notch on the micro-sim card (the cut out corner) on the top right or some other orientation? 2) As mentioned, the unit is supposed to have carplay and android auto built-in. I have an android phone. When I connect my phone to the USB, I expected that Android Auto to automatically display on the unit. Does anyone have this working? Or, is the built-in for carplay only and I need the USB adaptor for Android Auto? I believe, carplay requires running Zlink app to work. Thanks |
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10-20-2019, 10:29 PM | #748 |
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Drives: 13' F30 328i 6MT
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Anyone have a recommendation for an adapter that works well with TORQUE & Bimmercode? Or any other cool apps that are similar.
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