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      06-18-2019, 09:48 AM   #67
Moupe
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Thank you for the info homeslice!
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      06-20-2019, 10:39 AM   #68
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Garage List
So YOU have the other twin!

I got my EBII F31 from Jon as well, but in late Dec 2016. Back in Nov 2016, I saw two of them in Jon's inventory and always wondered what happened to the other car.
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      06-20-2019, 11:58 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt_slow View Post
So YOU have the other twin!

I got my EBII F31 from Jon as well, but in late Dec 2016. Back in Nov 2016, I saw two of them in Jon's inventory and always wondered what happened to the other car.
Haha yup! I remember seeing your car in inventory too on the website when I was seeing when mine was finally delivered to the dealer. I think I recall you making a post about picking yours up on the Bimmerfest forums. Small world.
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      07-31-2019, 02:41 PM   #70
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@FaRKle!

Thanks for the spring booster idea. I might try that. Seems cheap enough!
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      07-31-2019, 03:11 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by percychow View Post
@FaRKle!

Thanks for the spring booster idea. I might try that. Seems cheap enough!
It's even cheaper if you want to come over and grab the ones that I'm not using anymore .

BTW, were you able to get your old tension strut bushings pressed out with those KMAC cups?
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      07-31-2019, 06:45 PM   #72
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@FaRKle! not yet. I need to return your cups. The control arms has a service life of 2 installs, so adding new bushings and ball joint and reselling won't net much.

If you don't mind, I can text you and we can meet up. I can grab the spring spacers from you and get you back your cups.


Last edited by percychow; 07-31-2019 at 06:56 PM..
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      07-31-2019, 08:57 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by percychow View Post
@FaRKle! not yet. I need to return your cups. The control arms has a service life of 2 installs, so adding new bushings and ball joint and reselling won't net much.

If you don't mind, I can text you and we can meet up. I can grab the spring spacers from you and get you back your cups.

Sure thing. I'll be around this weekend.
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      09-09-2019, 01:21 AM   #74
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Refilling DEF in the 328d
So to supplement the various guides/tutorials the other Andys (Andies?) and I have been doing I've decided to start making some videos as well.

As coincidence would have it, my 1000mi DEF refill warning came on earlier this week, so to kick it off here's a video covering how to refill the DEF on the 328d.

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      09-13-2019, 11:29 AM   #75
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Video Overview and Installation Guide



DIY HAS Writeup


So, I've wondered for a while if one could DIY a rear HAS setup at a reasonable cost. If possible, this would solve common issues like not getting the rear height/wheel gap/rake you want, not being able to choose your rear spring rate and flat ride ratio, and having to buy expensive "BMW fit" springs.

Spring Mounting Hardware
I noticed that aftermarket coilover systems typically had flat ground springs (like standard coilover springs) that seated against their ride height adjusters, and wondered if it was possible to obtain just the rear ride height hardware. As it turns out, both BC Racing (PN I-29-HLK) and Solowerks offer their rear perch/adjusters. I ended up buying a set of the BC Racing perches/adjusters for $100 shipped (you can select any F2x/F3x/F8x on the linked site's drop-down menus and it'll bring up the right PN).

One thing I bought that was completely unnecessary was Swift's Thrust Sheets. These are supposed to act like a radial bearing to allow the spring to spin so it doesn't bind during compression/decompression. You really don't need these.

Next, in order to use a standard coilover spring I'd need a lower spring perch/pad to rest it on. Since that side is also ground flat the perch/pad needed to have a flat base. I looked through Energy Suspension's Catalog and on page 14 found universal polyurethane spring pads. PN 9.6116 and 9.6121 looked like they'd fit over the protrusion/mount in the rear camber arm, so I bought the cheaper of the two (9.6116).

This part's flange/seat is too large to allow it to sit flush in the lower camber arm, but that was easily remedied by cutting it to the appropriate profile.

Lower spring pad not sitting flush


Modified lower spring pad


Picking Springs
The last piece of the puzzle was choosing which spring to use. Both the BC Racing and Solowerks perches can use 60mm ID springs, although you'll probably need to remove the plastic perch on the BC unit. With the perch you can use 2.5" (63.5mm) ID springs. 65mm ID springs also probably fit fine, and you can choose to use a 60mm to 65mm adapter if you like.

To pick my spring I looked through Hyperco, Eibach, and Swift's catalogs. For my particular application I'm targeting a rear ride freq around 1.8Hz, so a 900lb/in spring is what I was after. When looking through the catalogs and searching the PNs for the spring rates I wanted I was surprised at how cheap standard coilover springs are. I saw them ranging from $50 to about $80 each, and the ones I wanted (Hyperco 2.5" ID, 900lbs/in, 10" long), ended up only being $57 each shipped.

A 9" coilover spring is probably optimal for having the most adjustment range, however 8" and 10" springs are far more common. If you decide to go with a spring rate as high/higher than mine (or you want to drop your rear height really low), you'll probably want an 8" spring instead. If you're keeping things around OE rates or up to M3/4 (~650lbs/in) then a 10" spring will be fine. One thing that's important to note is that you want it so that when the camber arm is up and bolted to the rear knuckle the spring has some load on it so it can't pop out. This is a concern if you go with too short of a spring, and is why helper springs and couplers exist.

Rear HAS in Practice
Rear HAS installed


I ended up having to adjust my rear perch all the way to the top (minimum height) to achieve the 14" hub to fender measurement I was targeting. I might drop the rear a bit more, but will have to remove the locking ring to allow the height adjustment ring to get closer to the top. Many coilovers don't use a locking ring on the rear, like Bilstein, and KW, so I'm confident I don't need them.

So far I've been driving around on this setup about five days now and have been pleased with it. I'm also quite pleased this setup came in at <$250, which is less than it'd cost you to get a pair of M-Performance rear springs.

But what about the front?
I'm thinking about the front too, but haven't found anything yet that would be easy and cost effective...
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      12-23-2019, 09:27 PM   #76
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Subscribed, incredible build, incredible detail. From a fellow 328d owner - Thank you!
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      01-13-2020, 01:01 PM   #77
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Fat Cat Motorsports Stage 3 Suspension Offroad Testing


Quote:
Index:
1:15 When a 328d is faster than a C63 AMG
1:50 Chit chat with my passenger on non-rebound biased damper tuning
6:10 Getting to pass the C63 AMG
7:19 Chit chat with my passenger on flat ride spring rates/frequencies
8:14 Free of traffic!
10:49 Dirt road to trail
13:21 More trails
This weekend I went to one of my usual outdoors spots with a group of friends. One of my favorite things about this spot is the dirt/gravel road and trails used to get there. This was a perfect opportunity to test the high speed compression blow off (KBO) technology of my newly tuned Fat Cat Motorsports (FCM) Stage 3 dampers.

As you can see from the video, I went faster than all the other vehicles in my group, including a C63 AMG, Toyota FJ Cruiser, Subaru Crosstrek, and Audi A6 All-road with knobby tires. When the rest of the group got to the meetup spot we had a good discussion on what I was running for suspension that allowed me to go so quickly while maintaining grip, control, and composure. In surfaces like this, FCM's tenets of non-rebound biased damping, digressive damping, flat ride frequencies/spring rates, and low damper gas force clearly shined.
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      01-21-2020, 02:22 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Light Carpet/Angel Wings
Great job on the install of this! The results look great.

I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to electronics and am having some trouble with my own installation. I'm in the process of putting a similar kit on my 2016 428i xDrive coupe, but since I lack the experience to be able to decode the NewTIS diagrams for my own car, I am really hoping you'd be able to provide some guidance on the wiring.

I purchased this system from iJDM Toy: LINK

The kit has been mounted to the car in much the same way you ended up doing your own. The questions I have are:

- how would I confirm which pin on the electrical connectors I need to connect to? I imagine they would be the same as yours since our vehicles are essentially the same chassis, but I don't know which diagram to look for to confirm. I've landed on THIS, but don't know where that corresponds to on the actual car.

- Would you please provide some more detailed instructions on how you spliced into the existing wire that a total newb could follow?

- did you need to recode the car at all? I've been told in the past that an install such as this where you are splicing onto an ECU controlled component would require you to recode the computer - something to do with the computer not sending enough power to the line to support the new component. I suspect this is false in this case, but could you please confirm?

Thank you in advance!

t
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      02-09-2020, 04:52 PM   #79
FaRKle!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsho View Post
Great job on the install of this! The results look great.

I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to electronics and am having some trouble with my own installation. I'm in the process of putting a similar kit on my 2016 428i xDrive coupe, but since I lack the experience to be able to decode the NewTIS diagrams for my own car, I am really hoping you'd be able to provide some guidance on the wiring.

I purchased this system from iJDM Toy: LINK

The kit has been mounted to the car in much the same way you ended up doing your own. The questions I have are:

- how would I confirm which pin on the electrical connectors I need to connect to? I imagine they would be the same as yours since our vehicles are essentially the same chassis, but I don't know which diagram to look for to confirm. I've landed on THIS, but don't know where that corresponds to on the actual car.

- Would you please provide some more detailed instructions on how you spliced into the existing wire that a total newb could follow?

- did you need to recode the car at all? I've been told in the past that an install such as this where you are splicing onto an ECU controlled component would require you to recode the computer - something to do with the computer not sending enough power to the line to support the new component. I suspect this is false in this case, but could you please confirm?

Thank you in advance!

t
Sorry I forgot to follow up on this.

1) You should be able to use the same colored wires I did to splice into. In my post detailing the install I linked to a site that shows what the different color abbreviations are. You can also use a multimeter to confirm the voltage on the pin.

2) I removed the pin from the connector with a jeweler's screwdriver. There's a tab you can press down on which lets you pull it out of the housing. Then I used a knife and cut a section of the wire coating off, wrapped the angel wing wire around the exposed conductor, soldered it, and then put some heat shrink over. It's important to do this a bit further back from the pin, otherwise both wires won't fit into the housing and let you push the pin in all the way when reinserting it.

3) No programming/coding is necessary.
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