[crazy bill]

Originally Posted by kenza750

what happens when you select "Metric"? And then back to Imperial again?



The bluetooth of these units are locked. You can not connect other devices other than phones/music devices.

I used Torque Pro with a Wifi OBD dongle. That does work, but be sure to remove the wifi dongle from the OBD otherwise you are creating 2 issues:

1. it will drain the battery because it prevents the car from falling into sleep-mode
2. unsecured wifi signal stays on: so everybody outside is able to connect to the car (car hijackers know how to open/start the car when they have access to OBD!!)

How can you remove the wifi dongle from the obd device?

[kenza750]

Originally Posted by crazy bill

How can you remove the wifi dongle from the obd device?

Just unplug it. It's the same kind of device as the Bluetooth one, only using WiFi to connect to your HU (or phone).

[crazy bill]

Originally Posted by kenza750

Just unplug it. It's the same kind of device as the Bluetooth one, only using WiFi to connect to your HU (or phone).

Ok yes this I know it. You mean not to leave it all the time on the car. In the way that you wrote it I suppose qrong that is a way to turn wifi from the obd device.orry for the misunderstanding.

[D041987]

Originally Posted by kenza750

what happens when you select "Metric"? And then back to Imperial again?

The bluetooth of these units are locked. You can not connect other devices other than phones/music devices.

I used Torque Pro with a Wifi OBD dongle. That does work, but be sure to remove the wifi dongle from the OBD otherwise you are creating 2 issues:

1. it will drain the battery because it prevents the car from falling into sleep-mode
2. unsecured wifi signal stays on: so everybody outside is able to connect to the car (car hijackers know how to open/start the car when they have access to OBD!!)

Nothing it revert back to Metric every time. Also my clock is the same. I set it to 12HR and it reverts back to 24HRS and can never be set to display 12hrs clock.

Yes, I have the wifi buetooth dongle. My personal phone sees it no problem. When I go into TORQUE app or OBDLINK app on this radio it always prompts me to enable Bluetooth on the Android radio and always loops back to the first picture I posted where it asks to enable Bluetooth and never connects.

When I pull down on the radio to see the Bluetooth option and select it, it just goes straight to phone pairing screen.

I factory reset my system 3 times and still same issues. Might have a broken system or maybe need new firmware? Everything else works fine.

[dico21]

Originally Posted by dico21

Hi All,

Back after more testing and need help from the experts. Vehicle is a 2011 X5 xDrive 35i (E70) with CIC.

Symptoms:

• Screen does not turn off; it always has power even after locking the doors and waiting for car to sleep.
• There is no communication between the Android side and the OEM side. Each works perfectly on its own, but no dashboard, iDrive control, steering wheel controls, switch to OEM reverse cam, etc. in Android.

Diagnosis:

• Re-tested all connections and confirmed the voltages. My Can Low (green) shows ~.4v and Can High (orange/green) shows ~4.3v which is consistent with what I have read online. Can High shifts to about 10.7v when car goes into sleep mode.
• Tried a factory reset and reinstalled all firmware; no change.
• Tried removing GPS splitter (no GPS connection) and direct GPS connection to Android head unit; no change.
• MCU ver: 023052dGS-CIC-GTL-191127-B18.
• APP ver: KSW-Q-Userdebug_OS_v1.8.4 (System Version 10-8953EA).
• Unit: Android 9.0 (originally) Snapdragon 625 (MSM8953), 8-core 64-bit w/2GB RAM

After this, I assumed I do not have a software or connection issue and took the unit apart. It looks like there is damage on the side of one of the boards due to poor soldering or a wire coming undone. Not sure if this is permanent or if I can try to re-solder the ~3 connections that appear to have failed.

Questions:

• The black wire that was connected in the middle of where the damage is looks like an antenna, but is not connected to the solder point marked as WiFi on the main board; is this the WiFi antenna and was it soldered in the wrong place or is it in the correct spot?
• I can solder electrical connections and have some experience working with raspberry pi, etc.; can I just solder this with a normal soldering iron or do I need a special tip/iron?
• Should the black wire/antenna go back where it was or was it in the wrong place? I have had intermittent Wifi connection issues.
• Should the black wire touch the board that is soldered on and the main board or just one or the other; it is unclear to me how it was originally attached, but there seems to be a cover on the soldered part to protect against making other connections (though the excess wire appear to have been hanging free).
• Should the board be soldered together in the area where there appears to be damage?

I appreciate any help I can get, and thank you in advance.

I am stubborn and back with more. I re-read the 161 page Android 9.0 thread and this thread in hopes of finding pictures of the PCB to diagnose my issue. It seems it is certainly either MCU or hardware related; my unit stays on all the time because it has no CAN communication. What I called "sleep mode" in my previous post, I do not believe is correct; CAN Hi goes to ~10.7v after about 1 minute - I do not think "sleep mode" happens until about a half hour. I have watched the screen for that long (but not checked voltage) and it switches to no signal.

I found these pictures from Kri (https://github.com/chinesebmwheaduni...58332e9009ad3d) and it appears I have the same PCB. I have attached a close up of this board of the same area that is damaged on mine. What is going on here? Should I reconnect these wires the same way? Is the solder touching on some of the other connections on this side of the board (all the way left in third picture and to the right of my problem area) an issue or do these just hold the supplementary board onto the PCB (I do not know the proper terms here so please excuse my ignorance). In any case, I think this just relates to an antenna and not the root of my issue.

The Chinese vendor finally got back to me on my request for the MCU, but provided OS 1.14-8.1, not the MCU. I have been asking for a warranty replacement and they are suggesting I get it diagnosed locally for compensation.

I am at the point of just purchasing a new, upgraded unit, but also concerned that a new unit will not work either (even though everything appears to be related to Android as my CIC works perfectly on native screen or in Android on OEM). Is it possible this is a BMW coding issue? I believe my Combox was retrofit from TCU/MULF, but not sure that would make any difference. If it was not coded correctly, I do not think it would work on the native side (pre-screen Android HU).

I believe I also found someone with an E70 and same unit that had a similar issue, but it seems he stopped posting (https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...postcount=2080).

First two images are from Kri's link, next four are mine, and the last one is from cybertiger's post who also had issues with an E70 and same PCB.

[acefr]

Originally Posted by Dominik94

Hello, I installed an Android 10 navi yesterday and had to insert sound from the android screen via aux under the armrest but the sound is pretty shit, is there a way to improve the sound with a better cable or not?

A quality 3.5mm mini jack cable does make a small difference. The supplied cable is pretty cheap. If you are in the US, I can share an Amazon link for the cable I used. Of course everyone sound requirement is different, one can use an USB sound card to get better audio.

[Bosley]

Good day everyone!
I've got an issue with the CarPlay with those HU.
I have the white dongle (the version with the cable) with AutoPlayBox.apk installed, which used to work well on my old 7.1 HU. Now when I connect my iphone it works sometimes, but most of the times when I connect the phone the screen goes black, but it seems as if the carplay is actually runinng (I see the notification on the phone and the music starts playing)..

Does anyone have the same issue? Does anybody know how to solve it?

Thanks a lot!!

[F20_M135i]

"CarPlay" problem on Android 10 or Android 9, no because posting on the 2 wires at the same time and everywhere for different problems, it becomes complicated to answer you ...

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello All,

I thought to update to 10, but Android security patch level you are on what date please?

[JimmyCas]

Hi all! I just installed a rear camera and everything works, but from time to time, when I insert reverse gear, the camera doesn't start or while I'm moving image dissapear and back to android.

I think it could be a bad connection I could made or perhaps the reverse light doesn't give a consistent tension or something.

Do you know what could happen or do you have a similar problem?

thanks in advance!

[haibn92]

Hello,

I'd like to try the custom ROM to bypass some issues with the stock ROM, so someone having experience with custom ROM (Hal9K or Malaysk) can give me clarification for the following points:
1) The custom ROM is compatible with our 10.25 head unit ?
2) Is it possible to upgrade to custom ROM ?
3) If custom ROM is utilisable, is it possible to install the stock MCU ? Or we need also a custom MCU ?

Thanks.

[Kri]

Originally Posted by haibn92

Hello,

I'd like to try the custom ROM to bypass some issues with the stock ROM, so someone having experience with custom ROM (Hal9K or Malaysk) can give me clarification for the following points:
1) The custom ROM is compatible with our 10.25 head unit ?
2) Is it possible to upgrade to custom ROM ?
3) If custom ROM is utilisable, is it possible to install the stock MCU ? Or we need also a custom MCU ?

Thanks.

Nobody has tried/done this yet, you would be the first one

Kri

[Alpina_Guy]

afaik it is for the PX HeadUnits and not for the more common SD625...

[Mjam]

Originally Posted by JimmyCas

I think it could be a bad connection I could made or perhaps the reverse light doesn't give a consistent tension or something.

Camera should not be connected to reverse light at all, but be powered directly from the Android headunit. If your Android harness has a red cable labeled +12V Camera, this is it.

[Bosley]

Originally Posted by F20_M135i

"CarPlay" problem on Android 10 or Android 9, no because posting on the 2 wires at the same time and everywhere for different problems, it becomes complicated to answer you ...

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello All,

I thought to update to 10, but Android security patch level you are on what date please?

Yeah, sorry for that.. Actually my HU has Android 9, but the system now is working well, so I though that's an issue related to the apk for the CarPlay, and not the HU itself, that's why I (wrongly) posted it also there..

[atr911]

Originally Posted by atr911

I've been getting this screen when trying to update ever since trying to update to 1.8.4 and more recently even when trying to update the config file. Any thoughts? It doesn't actually complete the update on the OS and I can't get out of it unless I reboot.

Still having this issue. Tired both USB ports. Thoughts?

[Kri]

Here a little guide how to gather the factory_config.xml file from your headunit.
This is only useful if there has been not imported any file by yourself before !

When the system is running at normal state the folder does appear empty on Android alltough it is not.

There are two possibilities, ony without the need of root and one with need of root:


Variante 1

Root is required, root your device as described in the Rooting Guide.
Install Total Commander from PlayStore.

Open Total Commander and allow access to Data


Attach a USB Thumbdrive to your Android headunit, in my case it is called "Sandisk".


On the right TAB click on your thumbdrive to be within that folder.
On the left TAB click on "File system root" and from there on the folders "mnt" "vendor" persist" and "OEM"


If your seller had installed it you will find the injected factory_config.xml file here.
If you do not have access to this folder something went wrong with rooting.
If you have access to this folder but there is no file then your seller likely has not injected a file at all.

Now click on the Icon (1) left to the text so a green checksign will appar.
Not click the 2nd Icon from left (2) on the bottom line.
Finally click the "copy" text.


Now you have successfully copied the file to your thumbdrive and can view it with any text editor (like notepad) on your laptop/computer.

WARNING: do NOT copy the file back from your thumbdrive to the system, it will overwirte the permissions so it will not be possible to import the file normally again!
You will need to do a OTA Reovery to get it to work again (see page 1).

Always only import the File via Thumbdrive placed it into the OEM folder.

Variante 2

Guide from @banpiro (Discord) to download stock Factory_config.xml from SD625 System WITHOUT root:

This is only useful if there has been not imported any file by yourself before!

1. Create WiFi hotspot in a smartphone

2. Connect Head Unit & your laptop to WiFi hotspot.

You need to know Head Unit IP (you can check it in hotspot). You also need ADB in your laptop (i.e. you can use folder \KswRooting-master\compiler of Rooting Guide)

3. Connect to IP & port of Head Unit (default port is 5555):

adb connect IP:port

4. Get the factory_config.xml:

adb pull /mnt/vendor/persist/OEM/factory_config.xml

5. Disconnect anything:

adb disconnect

Now you will find the File at the same folder as "adb".

Kri

[Kri]

Originally Posted by dico21

I am stubborn and back with more. I re-read the 161 page Android 9.0 thread and this thread in hopes of finding pictures of the PCB to diagnose my issue. It seems it is certainly either MCU or hardware related; my unit stays on all the time because it has no CAN communication. What I called "sleep mode" in my previous post, I do not believe is correct; CAN Hi goes to ~10.7v after about 1 minute - I do not think "sleep mode" happens until about a half hour. I have watched the screen for that long (but not checked voltage) and it switches to no signal.

I found these pictures from Kri (https://github.com/chinesebmwheaduni...58332e9009ad3d) and it appears I have the same PCB. I have attached a close up of this board of the same area that is damaged on mine. What is going on here? Should I reconnect these wires the same way? Is the solder touching on some of the other connections on this side of the board (all the way left in third picture and to the right of my problem area) an issue or do these just hold the supplementary board onto the PCB (I do not know the proper terms here so please excuse my ignorance). In any case, I think this just relates to an antenna and not the root of my issue.

The Chinese vendor finally got back to me on my request for the MCU, but provided OS 1.14-8.1, not the MCU. I have been asking for a warranty replacement and they are suggesting I get it diagnosed locally for compensation.

I am at the point of just purchasing a new, upgraded unit, but also concerned that a new unit will not work either (even though everything appears to be related to Android as my CIC works perfectly on native screen or in Android on OEM). Is it possible this is a BMW coding issue? I believe my Combox was retrofit from TCU/MULF, but not sure that would make any difference. If it was not coded correctly, I do not think it would work on the native side (pre-screen Android HU).

I believe I also found someone with an E70 and same unit that had a similar issue, but it seems he stopped posting (https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...postcount=2080).

First two images are from Kri's link, next four are mine, and the last one is from cybertiger's post who also had issues with an E70 and same PCB.

Your broken cable is the wireless LAN antenna.
you can either solder ist again directly to the board, or which is more easily solder it on the two large pads on the side.
The inner pad is the signal line, the outside pad (near to the end) is the shield pad.

Retrofitting a combox does not have any relation to your missing can at the headunit.

10.4V voltage on the bus is way too high, you have measured it correctly ?
At TIS there is a guide how to measure K-can , it is for F series but does also fit E series.

when you do have the same Board, maybe you also have the same harness ?
My harness has configurable CAN connectors, check if your`s also does have it.



Check your harness if CAN is going from input to output of your harness, they are pin 9 and 11.


It should also work with only one can transceivers as it is working on most e series cars this way.

Kri

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

So crazy question...

By mistake I purchased the (used) AVIN unit that is meant for the CCC X1's, and my car is CIC. Which means that in the rear of the head unit, it doesn't have the 4pin LVDS cable that I need.

Has anyone gone through this? Is there a workaround like an adapter or anything to make my unit work?

Thanks!

Does anyone know where can I purchase a 4-pin LVDS receiver to solder to the head unit?

AVIN's customer service is a complete joke, so I'm down to take matter into my own hands.

[Mjam]

Originally Posted by bassrebel

Does anyone know where can I purchase a 4-pin LVDS receiver to solder to the head unit?

I would contact several of the sellers of these units on Aliexpress, who can inquire their suppliers. You must have luck, of course, but sometimes you do.

[floc]

Originally Posted by misguided_will

hi all...
seen a few seller claim their units have an "LG" screen and a slim bezel compared to other.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000511862290.html

https://hifimaxnavi.com/products/and...31599868837982

do they exist??

These are the units we're talking about in this thread. Some are 1920x720, bezels are thinner compared to original OEM, mine was 8" and android one is 10.25 and only a bit bigger for a 2" larger screen. That's all. Very doubtful about LG maufacturer.

[bassrebel]

Originally Posted by Mirjam

I would contact several of the sellers of these units on Aliexpress, who can inquire their suppliers. You must have luck, of course, but sometimes you do.

I started asking the eBay sellers without luck, in turn, I just went to eBay and after a 2 hour search I was able to find the correct plug and ordered it... now to wait a month until I get it... ugh! lol

[EvntHrzn]

Hello,

I've tried a few searches but maybe I'm not wording them correctly because I could not find the answer to my question. So if anyone here knows, please let me know, or point me in the right direction.

My question is:

Is there a way to keep the music that you are playing on the Android side of things (like Spotify) continue to play when you switch to the normal car UI? I can only make this happen using a workaround*, but not by the normal means of switching back and forth between Android and BMW UI (ie when touching the "car" button in the Android UI, or long-pressing the MENU button in the iDrive wheel).
The main use I have for this is to fine-tune sound settings between Android's own sound UI, and BMW's TONE sub-menu. I need to be able to hear the music in both UI's and not have it turn off when I switch out of Android.

I feel like I'm overlooking an option in the factory settings perhaps?


Thank you for your help.

*BTW, if you don't already know of the workaround way of doing this, it is:

Start your music in Android (or Carplay within Android). Then press the PDC\Reverse Cam button (since the system already has a specific factory function to allow/disallow sound while reversing, if you have it set to on, the music will not go away while reversing or manually turning on PDC). The reason this is a workaround is that while the setting is supposed to allow your Android music to continue playing while reversing, you can actually browse the entire iDrive tree while
the music is still playing, as long as you entered iDrive in this manner (and not via the "direct" way).