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      08-13-2020, 06:00 PM   #4181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSeabass View Post
Got a problem :/

The CIC RoadTop from Amazon arrived (still waiting on instructions) so I started the disassembly process of the console. Right off the bat, it looks like there is going to be no room whatsoever for the device as the stereo unit is a full double DIN style, and the 'gap' above it stops about two inches in. 2013 F25, how screwed am I with this install?
You’ll need to remove your glovebox and put it next to the radio in the pocket space you’ll uncover when you remove the glovebox.
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      08-13-2020, 06:03 PM   #4182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSeabass View Post
Got a problem :/

The CIC RoadTop from Amazon arrived (still waiting on instructions) so I started the disassembly process of the console. Right off the bat, it looks like there is going to be no room whatsoever for the device as the stereo unit is a full double DIN style, and the 'gap' above it stops about two inches in. 2013 F25, how screwed am I with this install?

This may be an option:
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      08-13-2020, 06:47 PM   #4183
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Thanks for the tips, but before I take apart more of the car, I test-fit all the cables, and... no screen. I can hear music playing, the LVDS cables are in the right place (tested by leaving the LVDS connected to the MMI box as a passthrough, and removing/replacing the Quadlock splice). I have tested with the #3 dip in both the on an off position, still no screen. Cable going to the back of the 8.8 screen was not removed, only disconnected the LVDS from the rear of the main unit and added in the LVDS extension cables.

No other cables have been replaced/swapped. Steering wheel controls (scrolling through song list on armrest USB drive and volume) still work. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here

Edit - device I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084SVKWTW Currently using the DIP switch diagram on the first page of this thread as a guide (RoadTop may be different but have not received installation instructions yet).


Last edited by MrSeabass; 08-13-2020 at 07:46 PM..
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      08-13-2020, 07:08 PM   #4184
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Originally Posted by G.Newt View Post
Looks like I have a B version unit and I want to update. Can I flash the v1.0.2 and the 20.6 MCU update? Or just the v1.0.2? The post says some versions aren't compatible with the B version units and was wondering if that applied to MCU versions as well.
I'm on the same situation as you, I have Andream B version with V.1.0.2 but not sure if I can flash 20.6 MCU. Any chance you've done the update ?
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      08-13-2020, 08:00 PM   #4185
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I'm trying to install an andream box, software version 2.1.0.6, and don't have audio while using carplay. My car has the CIC high and it seems that I would have to run the 3.5 mm aux to the center console. However, my box doesn't seem to have that cable anywhere (it's not part of the quadlock cable)? Did all boxes come with the 3.5 mm cable? If not, is there any other way for me to get audio with CIC high?

I have already set the media mode to Aux and have transferred the two green cables so I have audio using the normal iDrive, just not when using CarPlay.
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      08-13-2020, 08:10 PM   #4186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propernorf View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Newt View Post
Looks like I have a B version unit and I want to update. Can I flash the v1.0.2 and the 20.6 MCU update? Or just the v1.0.2? The post says some versions aren't compatible with the B version units and was wondering if that applied to MCU versions as well.
I'm on the same situation as you, I have Andream B version with V.1.0.2 but not sure if I can flash 20.6 MCU. Any chance you've done the update ?
You can flash the 20.6 MCU to your unit. Just not the older unit software
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      08-13-2020, 09:11 PM   #4187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaypayne05 View Post
You can flash the 20.6 MCU to your unit. Just not the older unit software
Just did the update and it all went well, thank you,
My Andream is now running B_V 1.2 / MCU 20.06.02

I was actually hoping that the MCU update would fix Android Auto Night/Day switch as currently mine is always on night mode. But from what I read looks like the community version is the the only way to go with the fix. But not sure if someone tried it already with those new Andream models.
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      08-13-2020, 10:46 PM   #4188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSeabass View Post
Thanks for the tips, but before I take apart more of the car, I test-fit all the cables, and... no screen. I can hear music playing, the LVDS cables are in the right place (tested by leaving the LVDS connected to the MMI box as a passthrough, and removing/replacing the Quadlock splice). I have tested with the #3 dip in both the on an off position, still no screen. Cable going to the back of the 8.8 screen was not removed, only disconnected the LVDS from the rear of the main unit and added in the LVDS extension cables.

No other cables have been replaced/swapped. Steering wheel controls (scrolling through song list on armrest USB drive and volume) still work. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here

Edit - device I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084SVKWTW Currently using the DIP switch diagram on the first page of this thread as a guide (RoadTop may be different but have not received installation instructions yet).




Okay, exchanged emails with RoadTop, and the instructions had the wrong DIP switch setting. Only turning 3 and 4 on got the screen to work.

Now, there's no audio with Android Auto. Yes, I unpaired/deleted the phone from iDrive. Yes, AUX is set as the audio device in iDrive. Yes, Android Auto pairs wirelessly just fine to my Pixel 3a. All I end up getting is the radio showing up at random because the iDrive apparently still navigates the CIC in the background. Google/YT music apps are appearing on the Auto screen, and it is showing the music as playing both on the screen and on the phone... but no sound.

Starting to lose my patience with all this.






Last edited by MrSeabass; 08-13-2020 at 11:07 PM..
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      08-13-2020, 11:30 PM   #4189
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Okay, likely final update - turns out I did have to plug in the 3.5mm cord to the center console to get audio despite the instructions to the contrary. The audio sounds like shit, and I still end up with the radio accidentally coming on here and there as I navigate an extremely sluggish menu with iDrive.

Gonna box this up and return it. Huge headache, and I may look into the touchscreen replacement options instead.
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      08-14-2020, 07:34 AM   #4190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propernorf View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaypayne05 View Post
You can flash the 20.6 MCU to your unit. Just not the older unit software
Just did the update and it all went well, thank you,
My Andream is now running B_V 1.2 / MCU 20.06.02

I was actually hoping that the MCU update would fix Android Auto Night/Day switch as currently mine is always on night mode. But from what I read looks like the community version is the the only way to go with the fix. But not sure if someone tried it already with those new Andream models.
Did you go in to setting and toggle the auto night mode button
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      08-14-2020, 09:15 AM   #4191
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Quote:
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Did you go in to setting and toggle the auto night mode button
Yup that's actually the first thing I tried even thought the settings suggest it's for Carplay. nothing is changing still in night mode.
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      08-14-2020, 11:41 AM   #4192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSeabass View Post
Okay, likely final update - turns out I did have to plug in the 3.5mm cord to the center console to get audio despite the instructions to the contrary. The audio sounds like shit, and I still end up with the radio accidentally coming on here and there as I navigate an extremely sluggish menu with iDrive.

Gonna box this up and return it. Huge headache, and I may look into the touchscreen replacement options instead.
It sounds like the CIC versions of these boxes are not quite there yet unfortunately.
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      08-14-2020, 03:41 PM   #4193
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With the new custom v2 firmware, most of the time I'm unable to get AA to launch automatically and also can't get it to launch when I click the AA icon with the idrive controller.

This didn't really happen with the Andream firmware. Occasionally when running the Andream firmware, wireless AA would disconnect, but I'd go into the settings and disconnect/reconnect then would be prompted to start AA again. I've tried doing this in the custom firmware with the Bimmertech layout in wireless settings where I see my phone but when I click my phone to disconnect, nothing happens. If I toggle over I can delete my phone but I doubt that I'd want to do that.

I'd far prefer to use wireless AA but to do some testing with wired AA, I did find it more reliable, however if my phone bumps around, when connected, AA drops out and sometimes it will relaunch but if it doesn't other than disconnecting my phone and reconnecting, I haven't been able to figure out how to re-initiate AA. I don't know if this MMI unit is particularly finicky but when I've used a rental car that had stock AA, I've never had any issues with AA disconnecting, if my phone was bouncing around due to "spirited" driving. Do others have issues with wired AA disconnecting like this?

BTW I'm still having issues with Autolink seeming to conflict with wired AA, so that Autolink is simply unusable.
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      08-14-2020, 04:05 PM   #4194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grocerylist View Post
With the new custom v2 firmware, most of the time I'm unable to get AA to launch automatically and also can't get it to launch when I click the AA icon with the idrive controller.

This didn't really happen with the Andream firmware. Occasionally when running the Andream firmware, wireless AA would disconnect, but I'd go into the settings and disconnect/reconnect then would be prompted to start AA again. I've tried doing this in the custom firmware with the Bimmertech layout in wireless settings where I see my phone but when I click my phone to disconnect, nothing happens. If I toggle over I can delete my phone but I doubt that I'd want to do that.

I'd far prefer to use wireless AA but to do some testing with wired AA, I did find it more reliable, however if my phone bumps around, when connected, AA drops out and sometimes it will relaunch but if it doesn't other than disconnecting my phone and reconnecting, I haven't been able to figure out how to re-initiate AA. I don't know if this MMI unit is particularly finicky but when I've used a rental car that had stock AA, I've never had any issues with AA disconnecting, if my phone was bouncing around due to "spirited" driving. Do others have issues with wired AA disconnecting like this?

BTW I'm still having issues with Autolink seeming to conflict with wired AA, so that Autolink is simply unusable.
I'm not having any issues with wireless AA with my Samsung Galaxy S10e.

I was previously using a Samsung Galaxy S7 and that was slow and unreliable with wireless AA. Which phone are you using?
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      08-14-2020, 04:13 PM   #4195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muniz_ri View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by grocerylist View Post
With the new custom v2 firmware, most of the time I'm unable to get AA to launch automatically and also can't get it to launch when I click the AA icon with the idrive controller.

This didn't really happen with the Andream firmware. Occasionally when running the Andream firmware, wireless AA would disconnect, but I'd go into the settings and disconnect/reconnect then would be prompted to start AA again. I've tried doing this in the custom firmware with the Bimmertech layout in wireless settings where I see my phone but when I click my phone to disconnect, nothing happens. If I toggle over I can delete my phone but I doubt that I'd want to do that.

I'd far prefer to use wireless AA but to do some testing with wired AA, I did find it more reliable, however if my phone bumps around, when connected, AA drops out and sometimes it will relaunch but if it doesn't other than disconnecting my phone and reconnecting, I haven't been able to figure out how to re-initiate AA. I don't know if this MMI unit is particularly finicky but when I've used a rental car that had stock AA, I've never had any issues with AA disconnecting, if my phone was bouncing around due to "spirited" driving. Do others have issues with wired AA disconnecting like this?

BTW I'm still having issues with Autolink seeming to conflict with wired AA, so that Autolink is simply unusable.
I'm not having any issues with wireless AA with my Samsung Galaxy S10e.

I was previously using a Samsung Galaxy S7 and that was slow and unreliable with wireless AA. Which phone are you using?
I'm using a OnePlus 6.

With the stock Andream firmware it was mostly reliable, however for some reason wireless AA would always die within the first 10-15 minutes of driving but once I disconnected in the MMI settings and reconnected, AA wouldn't have any problems after that.
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      08-14-2020, 04:41 PM   #4196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSeabass View Post
Okay, exchanged emails with RoadTop, and the instructions had the wrong DIP switch setting. Only turning 3 and 4 on got the screen to work.

Now, there's no audio with Android Auto. Yes, I unpaired/deleted the phone from iDrive. Yes, AUX is set as the audio device in iDrive. Yes, Android Auto pairs wirelessly just fine to my Pixel 3a. All I end up getting is the radio showing up at random because the iDrive apparently still navigates the CIC in the background. Google/YT music apps are appearing on the Auto screen, and it is showing the music as playing both on the screen and on the phone... but no sound.

Starting to lose my patience with all this.







Wireless AA is currently fucked because it requires too muich bandwidth and these machines have a hard time cutting it. Theres also patches rolling out from google because AA is fucked up after a recent patch run. If you have no sound in AA its either you didnt move over teh fiber optic to the new harness or settings in phone of some sort. You do not need to plug in the AUX cable because its an inline splice. and yes the aux in is shit quality because of that.
Your unit may be defective if this is the case.

For about $100 more you can get and android headunit that does all of this just as well and you add touch screen capabilities, its baller and worth it for anyone with out it. Get a 10.25" and enjoy the new hotness.
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      08-14-2020, 04:57 PM   #4197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grocerylist View Post
I'm using a OnePlus 6.

With the stock Andream firmware it was mostly reliable, however for some reason wireless AA would always die within the first 10-15 minutes of driving but once I disconnected in the MMI settings and reconnected, AA wouldn't have any problems after that.
I did a quick Google search for OP6 and wireless AA and it looks like issues are common.

But what may help is to begin with a clean slate by clearing cache and data from the AA, Google, and Google Play services apps. Deleting the mmi's wifi and bt connections from your phone. Then going through the proper mmi pairing procedure again.
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      08-14-2020, 05:19 PM   #4198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grocerylist View Post
With the new custom v2 firmware, most of the time I'm unable to get AA to launch automatically and also can't get it to launch when I click the AA icon with the idrive controller.

This didn't really happen with the Andream firmware. Occasionally when running the Andream firmware, wireless AA would disconnect, but I'd go into the settings and disconnect/reconnect then would be prompted to start AA again. I've tried doing this in the custom firmware with the Bimmertech layout in wireless settings where I see my phone but when I click my phone to disconnect, nothing happens. If I toggle over I can delete my phone but I doubt that I'd want to do that.

I'd far prefer to use wireless AA but to do some testing with wired AA, I did find it more reliable, however if my phone bumps around, when connected, AA drops out and sometimes it will relaunch but if it doesn't other than disconnecting my phone and reconnecting, I haven't been able to figure out how to re-initiate AA. I don't know if this MMI unit is particularly finicky but when I've used a rental car that had stock AA, I've never had any issues with AA disconnecting, if my phone was bouncing around due to "spirited" driving. Do others have issues with wired AA disconnecting like this?

BTW I'm still having issues with Autolink seeming to conflict with wired AA, so that Autolink is simply unusable.
I'm glad that my Pixel does reliably auto connect to AA using V2 custom firmware, like you I cannot connect it manually by clicking on it in the Wireless Devices list like I could on V1.

Once connected however it is very reliable.
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      08-14-2020, 05:26 PM   #4199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerij101 View Post
I'm glad that my Pixel does reliably auto connect to AA using V2 custom firmware, like you I cannot connect it manually by clicking on it in the Wireless Devices list like I could on V1.

Once connected however it is very reliable.
v2 disconnects the mmi bt connection as soon as AA starts so that phone calls can be handled by the oem bt connection. That's why you cannot toggle the mmi bt on/off in the mmi settings. But you should be able to force the reconnect from the phones bt settings although that may be tricky to do while driving.

AA disconnects when the wifi connection to the mmi is not stable. You want to make sure that the mmi wifi antenna is not touching metal. Trying a different wifi channel may also help.

Last edited by muniz_ri; 08-14-2020 at 05:33 PM..
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      08-14-2020, 05:29 PM   #4200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thestimp View Post
Wireless AA is currently fucked because it requires too muich bandwidth and these machines have a hard time cutting it. Theres also patches rolling out from google because AA is fucked up after a recent patch run. If you have no sound in AA its either you didnt move over teh fiber optic to the new harness or settings in phone of some sort. You do not need to plug in the AUX cable because its an inline splice. and yes the aux in is shit quality because of that.
Your unit may be defective if this is the case.

For about $100 more you can get and android headunit that does all of this just as well and you add touch screen capabilities, its baller and worth it for anyone with out it. Get a 10.25" and enjoy the new hotness.
Check my followup post; the AUX cable ended up being required in the end. Fiber optic cables were in the right place. The box just sucks, and the iDrive causing the CIC menu to be navigated underneath the AAuto display is a showstopper. Other things I noticed is the screen would just cut out for a few seconds for no reason, then fade back in - for any reason.

Android headunit is an option, but even with the short time I played with AA, BMW's use of map/music splitscreen and snappy steering wheel controls made me feel like maybe I'm not missing out on the experience afterall.
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      08-14-2020, 05:53 PM   #4201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propernorf View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaypayne05 View Post
Did you go in to setting and toggle the auto night mode button
Yup that's actually the first thing I tried even thought the settings suggest it's for Carplay. nothing is changing still in night mode.
You might have to wait for a custom firmware for the B units or for a new release from Andream to fix it. I have CarPlay so I dont have that issue
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      08-14-2020, 07:31 PM   #4202
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Hello all

I have a big problem with my box that I installed today

My car : BMW F20 2016 120D NBT
My box : Andream

Software used (after update) :
v2.1.0.8.multiusb.gpe.b (PIN: 2863)
v1.0.A0.mod (PIN: 2863) (Not cross compatible) (based on: v2.1.0.6.gpe.b)

When I installed the box, I lost the possibility to show next/previous (music / radio ...) in my extended cluster (before, for exemple, when I wanted to switch the radio station or the music in bluetooth of my iPhone-, using the button of stelrling wheel, I had the info shown in my cluster in the digital screen, now, it's not showing anymore after the box installed), but it works without showing in the screen (with a swipe up, then press, it changed radio for exemple)

I also lost the information about my car (maintenance deadlines, control of oil, breaks, average consumption ..), now it's empty, only the historic of maintenance is okay

When I am in CarPlay mode, I cannot switch music (iPhone 11 pro max iOS 13.6) with the button of my wheel, when I activate the option in CarPlay setting, it uses my button(scroll up, scroll down) to navigate in the CarPlay menu (like if I turn the dial right or left), and it's not changing any music), when I use the physical buttons left/right on the dash, they switch music next/previous ..

The buttons for Siri, phone, volume are working well on my wheel

Overall, CarPlay is working good (wifi), I only have those problems, did you noticed those issues ? what can I do please ? (I really like to use the buttons in meh wheel ^^), and the extended display to show the next music/radio and the information about maintenance and consumption on the NBT)

Thank you





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