[Enabled]

Which exact dpf code? The calculated end of life one? That one just comes up at a certain calculated ash value.
They definitely can be flushed out and cleaned, if you wish.

[Jram328d]

Originally Posted by Enabled

Which exact dpf code? The calculated end of life one? That one just comes up at a certain calculated ash value.
They definitely can be flushed out and cleaned, if you wish.

Got the 244800 DPF limited code and a few SCR codes. I read that you can try to clean the DPF but it hasn't been verified to work in North America. Sadly I retired my baby today. Went 157k strong miles. Couldn't roll the dice with my long commute. Good luck everyone. Hope to come back and see you all made 250-350k. Best of luck everyone.

[jtalweezy]

Originally Posted by Uber Commuter

Didn't mean to hit enter yet lol...

What requirements are there for ISTA? I am quite familiar with coding software and have VCDS for Volkswagens (as well as a CAN-USB cable), but I have no idea if ISTA needs a specific cable, or just software, etc?

Thanks!

You will need an ENET to OBD cable for F series cars.

E series require a K+DCAN and ISTA-P as well as a voltage stabilizer (keeps volts at 14v+ during coding) and an ICOM module.

If you are interested in setting up ISTA+, I have done the software install many times. PM me if you need assistance and where to download.

[Tommy985]

I have 230kkm or 143k miles on mine F31 320d, on 125k miles changed chain, on my request. every 9k miles Castrol Edge 5-30, no issues. I noticed now that i have small front brake issue. Left caliper is grabing 1 sec later .

[Morrob95]

141k Miles on my 2014 328d. Zero problems with the engine/tranny and I'm stage 3 (no dpf, egr) since 40k miles. My timing chain doesnt make any noise and the car starts like new and drives great.

[NotEdsheeran]

Hey all, Not trying to Hi-jack this thread, however I have the opportunity to buy a 2015 328d Wagon for below market price with 82k miles on it.

I have been reading through this forum trying to find a complete answer to this question, but I was looking know what the common problems are with this car, the mileage they typically happen at, and the general cost to fix?

I currently own 2018 Golf R, but looking to get out of paying my loan if this is a more reliable option (Trying to put mo money in those stonks)

[alanm0075]

Starting to run into parts availability issues. Timing chain failed and was changed at around 250k km. My transmission is now running hot for some reason. The fluid and filter was changed at 250k km. I had to change the coolant line as it let go (melted) the other day. Did a coolant flush and it helped slightly but not fully. Any ideas anyone?

[alanm0075]

Change the timing chain now!

[mrgolf100]

Just had my 23rd oil change this week. Things are starting to come up that i am unsure of fixing at this point unless i find a local shop that isn't charging dealer pricing. Both rear shocks are toast and leaking, i have a torn CV boot in the front leaking grease, a running light out, the DPF needs replaced (that light i think just comes on after 200k regardless), brakes are coming up although i will note i only changed the discs once even though they tell you they must be changed with the pads.

If it dies tomorrow it's had a good run. Trying to get through another 12 months when perhaps used cars won't be so expensive. We'll see.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by NotEdsheeran

Hey all, Not trying to Hi-jack this thread, however I have the opportunity to buy a 2015 328d Wagon for below market price with 82k miles on it.

I have been reading through this forum trying to find a complete answer to this question, but I was looking know what the common problems are with this car, the mileage they typically happen at, and the general cost to fix?

I currently own 2018 Golf R, but looking to get out of paying my loan if this is a more reliable option (Trying to put mo money in those stonks)

Timing chain (BMW extended the warranty but it's based on lesser of time or miles).

Typical emissions system issues (NOX sensors, SCR components). Should be covered under federal/state emissions warranty. Double check.

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by mrgolf100

Just had my 23rd oil change this week. Things are starting to come up that i am unsure of fixing at this point unless i find a local shop that isn't charging dealer pricing. Both rear shocks are toast and leaking, i have a torn CV boot in the front leaking grease, a running light out, the DPF needs replaced (that light i think just comes on after 200k regardless), brakes are coming up although i will note i only changed the discs once even though they tell you they must be changed with the pads.

If it dies tomorrow it's had a good run. Trying to get through another 12 months when perhaps used cars won't be so expensive. We'll see.

Rear shocks are SUPER easy, I did mine at 90k and it was about 2 hours to do front struts and rear shocks. Parts from FCP euro and quick labor at s hop would be easy and you can do brakes while yo uare in there.

Would love to see you keep this thing going well beyond 230k

[Uber Commuter]

170,600 miles as she sits in my driveway; and my SCR system is failing again... I'm trying to decide if I want to keep resetting and try to limp along for a while, replace it all, or just get a new car...

We'll see I guess...

[andreigbs]

You guys give great hope. I'm only at 75k miles, will be doing a roadtrip down to the FL Keys and back, so probably will break 80k miles soon after the new year.

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by Uber Commuter

170,600 miles as she sits in my driveway; and my SCR system is failing again... I'm trying to decide if I want to keep resetting and try to limp along for a while, replace it all, or just get a new car...

We'll see I guess...

What's going on with yours? Maybe I/we can help you fix it? Send a message

[EAMONTANA]

I have been following this thread since 2019. Thankful for this community. I and im sure a lot of others love their 328d. The mix of practicality, luxury, and fun is just unmatched. My 328d just made it over the 100k mile threshold and I feel like it is normal to be a bit hesitant at this point, however, this thread has given me a lot of confidence. I am not a car guy and do not know mechanics very well but I do have an OBD reader. I have a check engine light on and the code its throwing seems to be because of the EGR. From all of my research I believe that the EGR is just dirty. I think this because the car drives like new, no hesitations of any kind, no rough idle, acceleration and torque is all there. My question is, do I need to be concerned? Do I just clean out the EGR. Any advice would be awesome!
Thanks,

[Bcsan]

Originally Posted by EAMONTANA

I have been following this thread since 2019. Thankful for this community. I and im sure a lot of others love their 328d. The mix of practicality, luxury, and fun is just unmatched. My 328d just made it over the 100k mile threshold and I feel like it is normal to be a bit hesitant at this point, however, this thread has given me a lot of confidence. I am not a car guy and do not know mechanics very well but I do have an OBD reader. I have a check engine light on and the code its throwing seems to be because of the EGR. From all of my research I believe that the EGR is just dirty. I think this because the car drives like new, no hesitations of any kind, no rough idle, acceleration and torque is all there. My question is, do I need to be concerned? Do I just clean out the EGR. Any advice would be awesome!
Thanks,

The egr cooler recall should have you covered.

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by EAMONTANA

I have been following this thread since 2019. Thankful for this community. I and im sure a lot of others love their 328d. The mix of practicality, luxury, and fun is just unmatched. My 328d just made it over the 100k mile threshold and I feel like it is normal to be a bit hesitant at this point, however, this thread has given me a lot of confidence. I am not a car guy and do not know mechanics very well but I do have an OBD reader. I have a check engine light on and the code its throwing seems to be because of the EGR. From all of my research I believe that the EGR is just dirty. I think this because the car drives like new, no hesitations of any kind, no rough idle, acceleration and torque is all there. My question is, do I need to be concerned? Do I just clean out the EGR. Any advice would be awesome!
Thanks,

What are the exact codes?

[EAMONTANA]

Originally Posted by Enabled

What are the exact codes?

Here are all of the codes, I have owned the car for 2 years and have done nothing expect routine oil changes

Im not sure how to even read/write the codes

0F1F90 - 273600 - EGR
29FB00 - SCR SYSTEM WARNING 1

0F1650 - 480134 - ICM NOT ABLE TO TELL DIRECTION

0F1D50 - 8051B5 - RETURN PUMP

0F17C0 - 8011B9 - POTENTIOMETER
8011F9 - HEATER REDUCTION IN POWER

These are all my codes, but the car drives perfectly, no rough idle, it has all of the torque and overall it just feels good, but it seems like a lot of codes

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by EAMONTANA

Here are all of the codes, I have owned the car for 2 years and have done nothing expect routine oil changes

Im not sure how to even read/write the codes

0F1F90 - 273600 - EGR
29FB00 - SCR SYSTEM WARNING 1

0F1650 - 480134 - ICM NOT ABLE TO TELL DIRECTION

0F1D50 - 8051B5 - RETURN PUMP

0F17C0 - 8011B9 - POTENTIOMETER
8011F9 - HEATER REDUCTION IN POWER

These are all my codes, but the car drives perfectly, no rough idle, it has all of the torque and overall it just feels good, but it seems like a lot of codes

I'm not sure how you got those interpretations of the codes. I pasted the actual code descriptions below.



From the Engine Control Module (also known as the DDE):
0x273600 Exhaust gas recirculation position, long-term drift: Position deviation too high (current / new condition) (*clean your EGR valve. If it returns, replace it)
0x29FB00 DeNOx system, warning and shutdown scenario: Warning level 1 (*likely a stored code from when DEF fill was too low, or of low quality)


The ICM code is likely old and insignificant to anything. This comes from the Integrated Chassis Management module; nothing to do with engine.
0x480134 SBS function - direction of travel unsafe with velocity greater than 2 m/s


SCR (selective catalyst reductant) module code. Have you put in lower quality DEF in the past? This + the DeNOx system code earlier point to a bad DEF fill once. It may be an old insignificant code.
0x8051B5 SCR return pump, taught volume outside of valid range (DFC_SCRPODVolLrnBFP)


Climate control codes from the IHKA module, both insignificant old codes and can be cleared:
0x8011B9 Layering potentiometer: Short to plus or open circuit
0x8011F9 PTC-Module: Reduction of heater output due to power management

[DonJuan]

117,000 on my 2014 328d still going strong and no issues.

[CleanKM]

138K, just checking in.

Original shocks, battery, AT fluid, Diff fluid. Same brakes from 48K

Besides regular oil changes, had to change out 2 fuel injectors.

NOx sensor replaced twice under warranty, then extended warranty. If it happens again, I'm going to delete.

Was getting 38mpg, but bumped back up to what she was before to 45mpg after cleaning MAF

[Fthirty30]

Located in Arizona, car runs great purchased at 100k 3 years ago in Chicago area. Spent a year with it throughout the Chicago winter, had an issue with the nox sensors but got those replaced. At around 140k I had a coolant hose explode while I was driving up north. I believe the rapid elevation change was part of the issue. Other than that no problems, oil changed every 3k miles, original battery, trans, and even suspension. If you live in a part of the world with very low quality diesel I would recommend trying Hot Shots diesel extreme, and then using the every day diesel treatment (at every fill up). Apparently they use this at the ford and gm dealerships to remedy diesel issues. It really makes a difference! It also cleans the injectors and removes soot, your pocket will also thank you with the mpg gains. Good luck all!