[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by Fthirty30

Located in Arizona, car runs great purchased at 100k 3 years ago in Chicago area. Spent a year with it throughout the Chicago winter, had an issue with the nox sensors but got those replaced. At around 140k I had a coolant hose explode while I was driving up north. I believe the rapid elevation change was part of the issue. Other than that no problems, oil changed every 3k miles, original battery, trans, and even suspension. If you live in a part of the world with very low quality diesel I would recommend trying Hot Shots diesel extreme, and then using the every day diesel treatment (at every fill up). Apparently they use this at the ford and gm dealerships to remedy diesel issues. It really makes a difference! It also cleans the injectors and removes soot, your pocket will also thank you with the mpg gains. Good luck all!

Interested what coolant hose if you know. I hear their is a common failure hose at higher miles.

[bulletguy]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

If you're a tinkerer/DIYer you're welcome to hit me up sometime to help take a look at something or plug in ISTA to read codes/diagnose.

I assume at 124k you've already done things like replace the control arms/bushings, coolant tank bleed line, and other high mileage common failures, right?

BTW did you know Pleasanton Garbage Service will give you milk jugs and heavy duty plastic bags (for the filter) for when you do your own oil changes, and then will pick them up with your regular garbage pickup? I've been taking advantage of that.

Hey bud. Glad to have someone local with BMW 328D expertise.

[bulletguy]

My car has 88K on the odo.

Here is brief service history. Haven't stepped in dealership yet except NOx sensor which was covered under warranty.
60k air filter
64K Brake fluid flush
67k front left control arms. Both on left front side. (was involved in an accident)
70k transmission fluid with pan replacement.
75k both nox sensor replacement (Under warranty) EGR inspected and checkout OK (Under warranty)
79k cabin air filter replacement, diesel fuel filter replacement.
81k brake fluid flush, coolant drain n refill

Questions:
1) Experiencing burning oil smell lately inside cabin. Looks like valve cover gasket leak. Any DIY video online to follow to get this done? Can the cabin smoke due to EGR issue (pending recall)?
2) Thinking to do rear diff oil replace and drive belt replace. Anything else experts here recommend at this mileage?

[andreigbs]

Being in CA, I wouldn't worry about replacing brake fluid that often. Once every few years is more than fine (unless you track the car, which I doubt...)

Was the 79k fuel filter change your first? I think these need replacing every 40-50k miles.

The cabin smoke smell could be related to the EGR cooler issue (see this thread: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1851961)

I'd do both front and rear diffs fluids, and have your mechanic double-check that your rear diff seals aren't leaking.

Drivebelt should be good to at least 100k, if not 120k.

[DonJuan]

Originally Posted by bulletguy

2) Thinking to do rear diff oil replace and drive belt replace. Anything else experts here recommend at this mileage?

I did rear diff at 100k.

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by andreigbs

Being in CA, I wouldn't worry about replacing brake fluid that often. Once every few years is more than fine (unless you track the car, which I doubt...)

Was the 79k fuel filter change your first? I think these need replacing every 40-50k miles.

The cabin smoke smell could be related to the EGR cooler issue (see this thread: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1851961)

I'd do both front and rear diffs fluids, and have your mechanic double-check that your rear diff seals aren't leaking.

Drivebelt should be good to at least 100k, if not 120k.

This or if the gasket for the valve cover right above this area is seeping, you'll need to change the valve cover gasket.

I would use newtis for this, not youtube.


Visible smoke is a LOT more specific to valve cover gasket (oil smoking as it touches hot exhaust). Besides, burning oil has a very specific smell.

[ffrostiger]

These cars last a long time if given proper maintenance. You got yourself a keeper!

[DonJuan]

Originally Posted by andreigbs

Being in CA, I wouldn't worry about replacing brake fluid that often. Once every few years is more than fine (unless you track the car, which I doubt...)

Was the 79k fuel filter change your first? I think these need replacing every 40-50k miles.

The cabin smoke smell could be related to the EGR cooler issue (see this thread: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1851961)

I'd do both front and rear diffs fluids, and have your mechanic double-check that your rear diff seals aren't leaking.

Drivebelt should be good to at least 100k, if not 120k.

If you smell diesel smoke,yes. But if you smell rather a "burned" smell, it probably VCG.

[EAMONTANA]

Originally Posted by Enabled

I'm not sure how you got those interpretations of the codes. I pasted the actual code descriptions below.



From the Engine Control Module (also known as the DDE):
0x273600 Exhaust gas recirculation position, long-term drift: Position deviation too high (current / new condition) (*clean your EGR valve. If it returns, replace it)
0x29FB00 DeNOx system, warning and shutdown scenario: Warning level 1 (*likely a stored code from when DEF fill was too low, or of low quality)


The ICM code is likely old and insignificant to anything. This comes from the Integrated Chassis Management module; nothing to do with engine.
0x480134 SBS function - direction of travel unsafe with velocity greater than 2 m/s


SCR (selective catalyst reductant) module code. Have you put in lower quality DEF in the past? This + the DeNOx system code earlier point to a bad DEF fill once. It may be an old insignificant code.
0x8051B5 SCR return pump, taught volume outside of valid range (DFC_SCRPODVolLrnBFP)


Climate control codes from the IHKA module, both insignificant old codes and can be cleared:
0x8011B9 Layering potentiometer: Short to plus or open circuit
0x8011F9 PTC-Module: Reduction of heater output due to power management

I cant tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time to give this detailed response. From everything that I have research what you are saying absolutely lines up. I figured most of the codes were insignificant, and my DEF was low, actually Im changing fluids today. As far as EGR goes, Im going to try to clean it out.
Once again I thank you for your time.

[gryffishhawk571]

have seen some 328ds listed for sale with close to 200K on the clock so, these may be durable machines?

[gryffishhawk571]

great to hear!! I've got a 2014 328d with 53,000 mi and I love it!! when stopping it can exhibit a rough idle, jumpy tach which seems to correct if I shift from drive to neutral or park. any ideas what's causing this? like the transmission and the engine fight when stopped in drive...

[cameron_jf30d]

Sad day for me sort of! Traded in the F30 Diesel today and took delivery of my new G26 M440i xDrive with M Performance Exhaust! Keep piling those miles on everyone!

[steevmac]

[QUOTE=n8ronj;25892147]On the print out I got from the collision shop it said:
ECM 1.253400 Swirl Flap Actuator Open Too Wide

SCR 1.8051B5 Return Pump: Taught-In Volume Outside the Permitted Range



n8ronj.... curious if you resolved the SCR 1.8051B5 and what was the cause? I have a 2015 328d 65K miles and just found the code present this weekend. Not throwing a CEL (yet). All of the codes below showed up at the same time over the past week and still no CEL.

8051B5: Return pump, learned volume outside the permissible range
(DFC_SCRPODVolLrnBFP

I am also getting:
26F500: DeNOx system, efficiency: efficiency too low in range 1
26F600: DeNOx system, efficiency: efficiency too low in range 2
273600: Exhaust gas recirculation actuator position, long-term drift: position deviation too
high (current / new condition)

26F500 & 26F600 look up to be the NOx sensors

[MineralGrayF31]

Originally Posted by mrgolf100

Just had my 23rd oil change this week. Things are starting to come up that i am unsure of fixing at this point unless i find a local shop that isn't charging dealer pricing. Both rear shocks are toast and leaking, i have a torn CV boot in the front leaking grease, a running light out, the DPF needs replaced (that light i think just comes on after 200k regardless), brakes are coming up although i will note i only changed the discs once even though they tell you they must be changed with the pads.

If it dies tomorrow it's had a good run. Trying to get through another 12 months when perhaps used cars won't be so expensive. We'll see.

Do you still have her? What happened after your last post? Did you decide to keep her and let her run and do a few repairs or did you let her Rest In Peace?

-JE

[stlswagger]

Hey all I'm new. Just picked up a 2014 328d LUX with 147k miles on the clock. Lots of service history. Had one code when I ran it with my scanner, P208B. Dealer agreed to fix it before I take it home. She's at an independent BMW shop now. I know it's backwards but paid the shop to look it over again. I'll go though the EGR goodies and clean things up. It's part of that EGR recall. I contacted BMW USA today to make sure they updated me as the owner. Not afraid of the miles. These are taxi's everywhere else in the world I've been. Dealer was cool enough to let me stop by and drive it for about 45 mins by myself for a few days before I said I'll take it. No timing chain noise and I was seeing 51 mpg on the computer. Car drives just as good as the one that was 70k miles I drove but 30% more expensive here. In my experience 18k miles a year average since new she's pretty sorted. Anyway. Hello. Other vehicles are '18 Escalade Platinum, '13 Boss 302, '95 Land Rover Discovery.

[DonJuan]

Originally Posted by stlswagger

Hey all I'm new. Just picked up a 2014 328d LUX with 147k miles on the clock. Lots of service history. Had one code when I ran it with my scanner, P208B. Dealer agreed to fix it before I take it home. She's at an independent BMW shop now. I know it's backwards but paid the shop to look it over again. I'll go though the EGR goodies and clean things up. It's part of that EGR recall. I contacted BMW USA today to make sure they updated me as the owner. Not afraid of the miles. These are taxi's everywhere else in the world I've been. Dealer was cool enough to let me stop by and drive it for about 45 mins by myself for a few days before I said I'll take it. No timing chain noise and I was seeing 51 mpg on the computer. Car drives just as good as the one that was 70k miles I drove but 30% more expensive here. In my experience 18k miles a year average since new she's pretty sorted. Anyway. Hello. Other vehicles are '18 Escalade Platinum, '13 Boss 302, '95 Land Rover Discovery.

Welcome to the forums, enjoy your car!
Ours is just 125k but I have no doubt it will go much more.

[mrgolf100]

Hit 250,000 mi on Independence Day. It's time for some new shocks/struts but running strong.

[F30_320D_UK]

Originally Posted by mrgolf100

Hit 250,000 mi on Independence Day. It's time for some new shocks/struts but running strong.

Congratulations
That must be the highest miler on here?

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by mrgolf100

Hit 250,000 mi on Independence Day. It's time for some new shocks/struts but running strong.

Love the Update! Excited to see you hit 300k!

First set of shocks and struts? I did mine at 80k and they were shot. Will probably do again before I hit another 80k

[ssf556]

Originally Posted by n00bkiller944

Love the Update! Excited to see you hit 300k!

First set of shocks and struts? I did mine at 80k and they were shot. Will probably do again before I hit another 80k

Do you have part #s for these?

[mrgolf100]

The mechanic laughed when he drove it and said i was crazy for waiting that long..first set. He said the good news is it will feel brand new today and he was right. i feel like it's a few inches taller lol.

Either I'm lucky or this one is proof you don't have to do anything the manual doesn't require.

Question for people that know about these. The dealer won't flush the transmission fluid - like i demanded it the other day and the mechanic came to find me and pleaded that i don't. i left it alone but it can;t actually be "lifetime" right?

The only issue that could happen is the DPF could become full and that is a major repair $$$. Anything that is proven to clean them out i can add to the fuel?

Hoping to go another 100k and then get a car payment again...

[mrgolf100]

I had a axel boot leaking and opted to replace the whole left front axle but with the shocks and struts it was $3k. He said he used quality parts but i have no idea. not a car person unfortunately so i am at the mercy of what i'm told at the shop..