[fortythirtyfive]

Originally Posted by Skyhigh

Chemical Guys is a very disputed brand. Popular in the states, infamous in most of Europe. In Germany it is considered low quality brand with high quality marketing, low value for money.

I personally DO like Chemical Guys. The only CG product I wouldn't buy again or recommend is their "Microfiber WASH". I simply wasn't impressed, I found it mediocre.

This said, I think spray-on waxes or ceramic coatings (they aren't ceramic anyway) from any brand are a joke.... They create a hydrophobic layer for a couple of days to please the eye and that's it. Use proper wax, sealant or ceramic coating. They take longer to apply, but last for months and actually give a level of protection through a more robust physical layer.

Gyeon's concentrated version of their wet coat (you have to mix) is my go to, I've had around 2-3 weeks solid performance out of it before it began to stop. My bodyshop actually had a nightmare of a time when they painted something on my car, the silicons in the spray on coatings were impossible to remove and caused fish eyes in a lot of their work lol.

I used to swear by a Korean company called Fireball, their snow foam coatings were excellent but the amount they sold didn't go far. Gyeons wet coat essence allows you to dilute it and I get around 15-20 applications through a snow foam lance per bottle

[Skyhigh]

2-3 weeks is IMO nothing. I'd rather invest 4 hours but have it last for 6+ Months.
But that's a personal choice.

I don't care so much about the hydrophobic effect, to me that's secondary and mainly for show, although it does help keep the car clean. I care mostly about the actual physical layer of protection agains bird droppings, etc.

[boyerizm]

Originally Posted by Skyhigh

2-3 weeks is IMO nothing. I'd rather invest 4 hours but have it last for 6+ Months.
But that's a personal choice.

I don't care so much about the hydrophobic effect, to me that's secondary and mainly for show, although it does help keep the car clean. I care mostly about the actual physical layer of protection agains bird droppings, etc.

Curious, do you do the whole car, glass and wheels included? Or is that overkill?

Right now I'm using CG Diablo wheel cleaner but I'm not sure I'm a fan. It does clean the wheels but it doesn't really cling to them so you have to use a lot of product. Maybe Sonax would be a better option? If I do the wheels I want to make sure they're prepped.

[Onizukachan]

My favorite general/initialwheel cleaner is simple green. It’s cheap enough to use two sprays if needed and does a good job lifting off the vest majority of brake dust and softening build up with a single spray.

I have a DG one for really bad caked stuff, but with my new wheels and keeping them cleaned regularly and then hydro spin to try to keep ‘‘em clean and spot free means I don’t really use it anymore.

[Skyhigh]

Originally Posted by boyerizm

Curious, do you do the whole car, glass and wheels included? Or is that overkill?

Right now I'm using CG Diablo wheel cleaner but I'm not sure I'm a fan. It does clean the wheels but it doesn't really cling to them so you have to use a lot of product. Maybe Sonax would be a better option? If I do the wheels I want to make sure they're prepped.

There is no "one fits all" product (or if anyone is selling you one - you should stay away).

Wheels (rims) should get a wheel sealant. There is a choice there as well - quick and dirty, which will give you a couple of weeks, or a proper wheel coating, which gives you 1-2 years of protection and hydrophobic effect.

Tires get a tire treatment. For a rich colour and some shine.

Windows - you either rely on a spray-on wax for a couple of days/weeks of something or you apply a proper rain repellent, which will again give you roughly an year of water repelling properties.

Rubber and plastic gets another product and another treatment.

Keep in mind that all endurance periods stated are just a rough life expectancy - they heavily depend on how much you drive your car and the environment you drive and park your car in. For some a certain product may stay on for 3 months, for others - for 2 years.
The application method is also extremely important.

Since I am currently just in the middle of detailing my second car, I can tell you that a proper, full-scope detailing program for me takes 2 to 4 DAYS! (4-5 hours work a day).
Proper thorough washing as a prep for coatings is 3-4 hours. Stone chip repairs (if needed, luckily not an annual thing) - 2-4 hours. Partial polishing if/where needed (again luckily not a regular activity) - 3-5 hours. Full waxing and detailing 4-6 hours.
All of these can certainly be done faster, I am doing them as a hobby and with a moderate and somewhat relaxed speed.

[boyerizm]

Originally Posted by Skyhigh

Since I am currently just in the middle of detailing my second car, I can tell you that a proper, full-scope detailing program for me takes 2 to 4 DAYS! (4-5 hours work a day).
Proper thorough washing as a prep for coatings is 3-4 hours. Stone chip repairs (if needed, luckily not an annual thing) - 2-4 hours. Partial polishing if/where needed (again luckily not a regular activity) - 3-5 hours. Full waxing and detailing 4-6 hours.
All of these can certainly be done faster, I am doing them as a hobby and with a moderate and somewhat relaxed speed.

Agreed, it takes time, though I'm finding this is a problem for me because I live in the city and I'm doing it on the street. It only takes an hour or two and I'm already collecting shit on the car.

I think I'm going to have to change my tactics and do a quarter of the car completely at a time. Like only wash the hood, then clay it, polish, fix the chips then protect it.

[Skyhigh]

Hm. No Garage or car wash place to go to and spend the day?

On the street is suboptimal for a number of reasons….

I used to do a proper wash at a public car wash place and drive straight to my office building underground garage where I would spend the rest of the day with the car. Just removing any dust or dirt from the short trip with an IPA wipe down.

Only clay if you really need to. I used to clay as part of those full detailing sessions, but I stopped - claying inevitably creates micro scratches here and there and has the potential to cause even deeper scratches. I realised using the right chemistry as a prep gets rid of literally 90% of the stuck particles. Those remaining which I spot whilst washing, I remove with a fingernail.

[Fondry]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

My favorite general/initialwheel cleaner is simple green. It’s cheap enough to use two sprays if needed and does a good job lifting off the vest majority of brake dust and softening build up with a single spray.

I have a DG one for really bad caked stuff, but with my new wheels and keeping them cleaned regularly and then hydro spin to try to keep ‘‘em clean and spot free means I don’t really use it anymore.

what concentration do you use the simple green at?

[Onizukachan]

General purpose around 10:1, wheels around 3:1

Edit, that’s water to SG fyi