[Pyradox29]

Not sure why I never did it before. I guess I always figured it was faster and easier to just pay for it. But as most mechanics keep your car for the day, it is certainly not faster, and buying the tools means doing it twice pays for it and you have some extra tools.

I have a 2015 328i x-drive and Kies has a great video on how to change the oil on an n20 here:

Only thing they don't show is where the oil pan plug is. Thornfrog on the f30 forum has some good photos:
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1111308

I did a deep dive on oil. Like, hours. It is a deep hole to go down. Here are links to two sites that made the most sense to me:

https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/

https://motoroilbasics.com/motor-oil...di-engines.php

Up until now I have always specced BMW Twin Power Turbo 5w30 and that has worked well (I live in Canada and do not track the car).

This time I went with LiquiMoly TopTec 4200 5w30. Not really sure if I will see any difference, but it got good reviews and was $25 cheaper than the BMW stuff. It also hit all of the points made in the articles I referenced above (has one of liqui moly's lowest noack scores at 9.5).

I bought the oil filter at my local dealer, but it is a branded mann 816 filter so will probably go oem next time and save 7-8 bucks there as well.

Also prior to doing the change I ran some Liqui Moly DiJection cleaner through a tank of gas to clean the furl injectors. Again… have not really seen much difference, but I guess that is the purpose of good preventative maintenance.

Whole process took me and my daughter about an hour with a 5 minute interlude when a curious racoon came for a visit. Can definitely take less time, but was being careful with my daughter and we talked about all the different car bits as we went along.

Tools I used:
Wheel ramps
3/8" ratchet
86mm/16 flute oil filter removal tool
Flat head screw driver
Some rags
3/8" electronic torque wrench
Oil catch pan
Oil funnel
Disposable rubber gloves
Safety glasses
OBD ii plug and Bimmer Code to reset service interval

Things I learned:
1) It takes surprisingly long for the oil to fully drain (about 10 min)
2) Don't accidentally drop the oil drain plug in the oil. The oil is hotand it is hard to find swishing your hand in the oil catch basin lying under the car
3) The job is easy enough for a non-mechanic and a nine year old girl to do.

I took the car for a 15 minute run after and then reset the oil level in the car. Ran very quietly and smoothly.

I know a lot of you already do this yourselves, but as a first timer I thought I would share my resources and learnings for others that have held off. Hope it gets somebody else to try!

[BaconDouble]

This is great, thanks for sharing. I have a ‘19 and it’s just out of warranty so looking to do this myself at the next oil change.

Where did you get the oil - FCP Euro or somewhere else?

Also, I thought you could use the service reset procedure on the dash to reset the oil change monitor light?

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Pyradox29

But as most mechanics keep your car for the day...

Really? I've only had two oil changes in the last 50 years that I didn't do myself, both of those at my dealership as it was part of my 'free' maintenance deal. Those took about a hour, including cabin air filter changes.

I thought you could use the service reset procedure on the dash to reset the oil change monitor light?

Yes, along with the other basic service items that pop up on your iDrive screen. It's in your manual.

[KCee]

Congrats! You're right it is pretty easy to do. I hadn't changed the oil in a car in years but when I found out it would cost $150-$200 for the 328I decided to give it a shot. Far easier than changing the oil on my 2006 TL as that filter is hard to reach. If the oil drained out faster it would go even quicker.

[Billfitz]

I don't find the oil to drain slowly. I pull the plug, then change the filter. By the time I'm done with the filter the pan has fully drained.

[Pyradox29]

Originally Posted by BaconDouble

This is great, thanks for sharing. I have a '19 and it's just out of warranty so looking to do this myself at the next oil change.

Where did you get the oil - FCP Euro or somewhere else?

Also, I thought you could use the service reset procedure on the dash to reset the oil change monitor light?

Hey Bacon Double - I ordered the oil from Amazon. Arrived a day later. I also ordered the DIJection cleaner from germanparts.ca And also had next day delivery.

I am sure you can use the dash method. I have the bimmerlink app/obd2 bt plug and it makes it very easy so I just did that.

[SupremeF34]

Originally Posted by BaconDouble

This is great, thanks for sharing. I have a ‘19 and it’s just out of warranty so looking to do this myself at the next oil change.

Where did you get the oil - FCP Euro or somewhere else?

Also, I thought you could use the service reset procedure on the dash to reset the oil change monitor light?

I got my oil change kit from FCPEuro since it comes with everything needed and also to take advantage of their lifetime warranty. You can send your used oil/filter/crush washer back to them for a refund credit to cover your next oil change!

The service reset procedure can be done via an app like Bimmerlink, but the traditional dash method is super easy too–just push and hold the service reset button a total of three times. Watch the little service message on the screen to know when to let go and push the button again.

[IMG][/IMG]

[Gran_Turismo]

Haha I've been changing my own oil for the last 12 years. And yes the f34 is wayyyyy easier to change than the third gen Acura TL 😭😭

I just changed mine last week actually. I use Castrol edge 5w30 that is LL-01 approved.

[Pyradox29]

Originally Posted by Pyradox29

Not sure why I never did it before. I guess I always figured it was faster and easier to just pay for it. But as most mechanics keep your car for the day, it is certainly not faster, and buying the tools means doing it twice pays for it and you have some extra tools.

I have a 2015 328i x-drive and Kies has a great video on how to change the oil on an n20 here:

Only thing they don't show is where the oil pan plug is. Thornfrog on the f30 forum has some good photos:
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1111308

I did a deep dive on oil. Like, hours. It is a deep hole to go down. Here are links to two sites that made the most sense to me:

https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/

https://motoroilbasics.com/motor-oil...di-engines.php

Up until now I have always specced BMW Twin Power Turbo 5w30 and that has worked well (I live in Canada and do not track the car).

This time I went with LiquiMoly TopTec 4200 5w30. Not really sure if I will see any difference, but it got good reviews and was $25 cheaper than the BMW stuff. It also hit all of the points made in the articles I referenced above (has one of liqui moly's lowest noack scores at 9.5).

I bought the oil filter at my local dealer, but it is a branded mann 816 filter so will probably go oem next time and save 7-8 bucks there as well.

Also prior to doing the change I ran some Liqui Moly DiJection cleaner through a tank of gas to clean the furl injectors. Again… have not really seen much difference, but I guess that is the purpose of good preventative maintenance.

Whole process took me and my daughter about an hour with a 5 minute interlude when a curious racoon came for a visit. Can definitely take less time, but was being careful with my daughter and we talked about all the different car bits as we went along.

Tools I used:
Wheel ramps
3/8" ratchet
86mm/16 flute oil filter removal tool
Flat head screw driver
Some rags
3/8" electronic torque wrench
Oil catch pan
Oil funnel
Disposable rubber gloves
Safety glasses
OBD ii plug and Bimmer Code to reset service interval

Things I learned:
1) It takes surprisingly long for the oil to fully drain (about 10 min)
2) Don't accidentally drop the oil drain plug in the oil. The oil is hotand it is hard to find swishing your hand in the oil catch basin lying under the car
3) The job is easy enough for a non-mechanic and a nine year old girl to do.

I took the car for a 15 minute run after and then reset the oil level in the car. Ran very quietly and smoothly.

I know a lot of you already do this yourselves, but as a first timer I thought I would share my resources and learnings for others that have held off. Hope it gets somebody else to try!

So one thing I noticed with the different oil is my milage has got better. Where before on the BMW oil I would sit in the low 8.x l/100km, I now sit in the mid 7s, usually 7.6-7.8. My in town average gas dropped from around 11.3-11.5 to 10.7-10.8 l/100km.

Nothing that will make a huge difference, but an interesting note. I also see the average oil temp has gone up just a bit. Where it used to sit around 100, is probably now 110.

Engine continues to run very smoothly with the new oil so will probably use the same again next time.

[Billfitz]

My mileage went up when I switched to Liqui Moly, but I also started using Ceratec at the same time, so I couldn't say if it was just the oil.

[KCee]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

My mileage went up when I switched to Liqui Moly, but I also started using Ceratec at the same time, so I couldn't say if it was just the oil.

I got better mileage after switching to Liqui Moly and also used the Ceratec. Later though the mileage dropped a bit which may have been after getting new tires? Could also be my commute as traffic has gotten worse with many getting back to the office.

[SupremeF34]

Originally Posted by KCee

I got better mileage after switching to Liqui Moly and also used the Ceratec. Later though the mileage dropped a bit which may have been after getting new tires? Could also be my commute as traffic has gotten worse with many getting back to the office.

I noticed better mileage after my last oil change (first time using Ceratec.) I had been using Liquimoly 0w20 (factory spec) on my B58 340i GT. I don't think that ceratec is necessary on every single oil change, because it's supposed to last a while even after a few oil changes, and even though the manual advises against additives, I think it's a good product to use every so often.

[Billfitz]

The first time I added Ceratec I used the whole bottle. Since then 1/3 bottle per oil change.

[mateiux]

Sorry to hijack this thread, first time hearing about Ceratec , did a bit of research - nice "Project Farm" video review on it.

From other engines I know it is ok to add additives after a certain mileage, in theory wait at least 2 oil changed (~30k km before using anything), I have 15500 KM (~9000 miles) is it safe to start using it, is the engine too "tight" and I might actually introduce premature wear ... ?

Back in the day BMW had a huge issue with the Nikasil coating going bad on motorcycles due to using the wrong spec-ed oil (the additives in the oil) + too much Sulphur content in gas - hope that is not the case here...

[Billfitz]

Ceratec is different from traditional additives. It fills pores in the metal. Where there are no pores it doesn't do anything, so it shouldn't be a problem with a tight engine. I still wouldn't put it, or anything other than oil, in a new engine, but 9,000 miles should be OK.