[gezzdoc]

Originally Posted by johnung

3RD BIG BANG FOR YOUR BUCK- SPRINGS?, DAMPERS? COILOVERS?

....
Hope this helps!

Most defintely

[gezzdoc]

Originally Posted by Mick.86uk

When you press the Sport button and go to configure, this will appear in the idrive if you have adaptive suspension

Actually - that looks familiar...

[gezzdoc]

Originally Posted by JNW1

For a fast road set-up for UK roads the Birds suspension kit generally seems to attract very good reviews; they also offer a LSD and (I think) uprated anti-rolls bars as well.

I believe with both Birds and AC Schintzer their suspension kits are a passive set-up so if your car has adaptive dampers they'd be replaced as part of the upgrade. I can't say I rated the factory-fit adaptive dampers on my F31 335d so for me a move to good quality passive Bilstein dampers tuned for the car - which I think is what both Birds and AC Schnitzer offer - would be a definite improvement!

A bit more information on the Birds F31 340i conversion here:

https://www.birdsauto.com/editorial/...on-bmwcar-2020

Appreciated

[gezzdoc]

Originally Posted by johnung

4TH BIG BANG FOR YOUR BUCK- LIGHT WEIGHT WHEELS/NONRUNFLAT PERFORMANCE TIRES

You probably have 19” staggered BMW 704M wheels now.

Yup, those!

[gezzdoc]

Originally Posted by johnung

LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL (LSD)


I have a BMW M Performance LSD on my car which I added a few years ago when for some reason BMW was having a fire sale on just the LSD part number that fit my car. It cost me only about $1,300 installed.

Xmas/Black Friday list then!

[gezzdoc]

Still reading, still digesting...

the wife calls!

But this is an absolutely mine of information, not done yet

[johnung]

Originally Posted by gezzdoc

Actually - that looks familiar...

Did you ever do a visual inspection to find out if you have the Adaptive/EDC dampers? There is nothing on the cabin screen that can tell you the answer. That’s just misinformation.

It would be listed on the car’s window sticker and be called something like Adaptive Suspension.

You can also enter your full VIN number into the mdecoder website which is supposed to provide a full listing of items that came on the car from the factory. You have to read carefully line by line looking for the word “Adaptive”. If you find “Adaptive” then see what context it’s in, like does it say Adaptive Suspension?

If you search carefully line by line and do not find the word “Adaptive”, then you should have standard dampers.

[M140_BCS]

Factory option for adaptive suspension -

S2VF - Adaptive M Chassis

[gezzdoc]

Originally Posted by johnung

Did you ever do a visual inspection to find out if you have the Adaptive/EDC dampers? There is nothing on the cabin screen that can tell you the answer. That’s just misinformation.

It would be listed on the car’s window sticker and be called something like Adaptive Suspension.

You can also enter your full VIN number into the mdecoder website which is supposed to provide a full listing of items that came on the car from the factory. You have to read carefully line by line looking for the word “Adaptive”. If you find “Adaptive” then see what context it’s in, like does it say Adaptive Suspension?

If you search carefully line by line and do not find the word “Adaptive”, then you should have standard dampers.

Hi again - standard dampers

[gezzdoc]

Now before going on, apparently car has fake LSD if in DSC-off

1. Is this correct?
2. If so, on a scale of 1-10, how well does this emulate a real LSD?

https://www.2addicts.com/forums/atta...1&d=1436887786

[gezzdoc]

Originally Posted by johnung

RECOMMENDATIONS UNDER BUDGET
BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK
(Please re-read my individual subject posts because I have been updating them.)
Budget is $2,400-$3,600

Do the 5 mods listed below for a huge improvement in handling, responsiveness and driving fun! You will have about $1,000 remaining.

1) $550, VAC F3x RWD Monoball Upper Control Arms. Part# VAC-31-UCA-F3X-S-RWD. It’s well worth the shipping cost from Philadelphia to UK. Expect 1-2 hour shop quote. Very easy installation.

2) $400, H&R F3x Front 28mm Sway Bar for RWD with 6 cylinder engine. Part# 70878-2. Labor for RWD is easier. My F30 XDrive took 3-4 hours to install. Expect shop quotes of 4-5 hours. Installation not difficult, just time consuming with a lot of components to remove to gain access to the front sway bar.

3) $354, xHP Automatic Transmission Tune. Buy xHP License + Map Pack. Installs in 15 minutes from your laptop with a $20 Ethernet to OBD cable

4) 216€ (+VAT?, +shipping within Europe?) Wiechers F31 Aluminum Strut Tower Brace, part# 067045

5) $70, aFe Pro Dry airfilter for B58, part# 31-10270.

HOW TO SPENDING REMAINING $1,000.

A) IF car has Adaptive/EDC dampers, then install $350 Eibach Spring kit, part# E10-20-031-04-22. Labor quote should be about 3-4 shop hours. Lowering estimate is Front 1.2”/Rear 1.0”. This will improve handling without making the ride harsher.

B) IF car has standard dampers, then it would cost more than $1k to install Konis/Eibachs or KW V2 Street Comfort coilovers. So spend the money on EITHER:

Brakes- replace fluid, upgrade to Hawk 5.0 pads ($238 + shipping) and Goodridge Stainless Steel brake lines ($150) plus 3-4 hours shop time.
OR
Stage1 Engine Tune- Bootmod3 Stage1 with DME bench unlock, license, map pack and $20 cable is about $900.

SAVE FOR FUTURE REPLACEMENT UPGRADES
a) When runflat tires wear out, obtain a huge performance/handling improvement by installing lightweight wheels with non-runflat performance all season tires. Remember that you can sell your 704M wheels for at least $1,000, maybe much more. I haven’t researched their street value.

b) When brakes wear out, choose one of the brake upgrade options. Each of these will make a noticeable difference: Hawk 5.0 pads, SS brake lines, full crossdrilled rotors and lightweight front full floating rotors.

c) Exhaust/sound upgrade when you get an extra $1,500-$2,000

d) When/if you get an extra $3,000, replace stock rear differential with a Limited Slip Differential.

Hope this has helped! It was a fun exercise. It will be a fun project! Curious to hear your thoughts and priorities now that you have more specifics to consider.

Massive thanks again

Current priorities:
1) Replace runflats.

2) Initial search for the VAC you mentioned came to £923 ($1,100). If I can source for half that....

3) Wiechers F31 Aluminum Strut Tower Brace

4) Front 28mm Sway Bar

5) Transmission Tune/Remap?

[gezzdoc]

btw

VAC/sway bar/strut brace - any of these worth doing simultaneously or in particular order to avoid duplication of labour?

[johnung]

Originally Posted by gezzdoc

Hi again - standard dampers

Originally Posted by gezzdoc

Massive thanks again

Current priorities:
1) Replace runflats.

2) Initial search for the VAC you mentioned came to £923 ($1,100). If I can source for half that....

3) Wiechers F31 Aluminum Strut Tower Brace

4) Front 28mm Sway Bar

5) Transmission Tune/Remap?

You only need the VAC Upper Control Arms to start…$549

Make sure to get the H&R 28mm front sway bar which is solid. Some brands of 28mm front bars like Eibach are hollow. Avoid hollow.

Don’t be quick to just dump runflats. Make a considered choice of tire, tire size and whether to keep stock wheels or make a considered choice for all the advantages of a lighter stronger wheel. See my separate posts on the subjects.

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=29875484

[johnung]

Originally Posted by gezzdoc

Hi again - standard dampers

No problem! Standard dampers are fine. I already gave you three suspension options:

1) Eibach springs/Koni Special Active dampers with trimmed bump stops. Self-adjusting for comfort & sport

2) Eibach springs/Koni Sport Yellow dampers with trimmed bump stops. Manually adjustable for comfort

3) KW V2 Street Comfort coilovers. Manually adjustable for comfort. Slightly higher spring rates than Eibach.

Normally for your model I would suggest option #1. SA’s are sporty and comfortable. But since your emphasis is on duplicating the M3 feel, I’d suggest #2 or #3 which will feel a bit more M3/track like. Not in a harsh sense and you can dial in comfort level manually.

Note: The comfort range on both overlap some with the SA’s, but the best comfort setting on Sport Yellows and Strret Comforts can’t quite match the SA’s.

The parts for the KW coilovers are more expensive than Eibach/Koni Yellows, so budget may make your decision for you.

I highly suggest doing the VAC controll arms, H&R Front Sway Bar and front top strut brace and then drive it around for months to get a real feel for the changes. That will help you to decide whether you are satisfied with the 14mm rear sway or if you wish to go to a larger 16mm Eibach solid bar or a KC Design 17mm solid bar.

You should save labor if you do rear springs/dampers or coilovers at the same time as rear sway bar. Maybe 1-2 shop hours saved.

Also driving for months on the first set of mods with help you to zero in on which of the three suspension options might be best for you.

Previously I mentioned some wheel/tire options. I know that the focus is just on ditching run flats, but there is so much more to gain by choosing the right tire and wheel sizes, and the right model tire.

I started a new thread where I will delve deep into my decision after an 18 month research project on the subject. You may find it helpful. Link below.

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=29875484

[johnung]

Originally Posted by gezzdoc

btw

VAC/sway bar/strut brace - any of these worth doing simultaneously or in particular order to avoid duplication of labour?

Strut brace is so easy to do yourself. See previously posted video.

There is labor overlap on the front upper control arms and the front sway bar

[gezzdoc]

Should have said: I'm a little more hesitant about obvious visual changes as I believe these affect insurance premiums disproportionately

'Lucky enough' to have been involved in 2 accidents last year.
The 1st one, someone ran into the back of me: easily sorted

The 2nd one, woman in nearside lane on dual carriageway, approaches roundabout with no indicators (ie I assume going straight). Once on roundabout, suddenly goes right across me without any warning.
Assume she was lost/following SatNav as then goes all the way round and carries on in direction I thought she was going in 1st place
Still waiting for this to be sorted but already clobbered on my renewal

[gezzdoc]

Somewhat belated update

Way back in early summer, needed new tyres: ditched the run-flats
For me - made the car feel a whole lot more responsive
For example - I swear improves acceleration (won't be surprised if someone translates this to reduction of unsprung mass...)

Then at long last, got my Swedish monoballs (Millway easier for me to get than VAC)
Oooh yes!
The easiest way for me to describe, is like someone put the car on a diet to make it more nimble
I've been actively looking for corners
johnung

Going to get wheel alignment checked tomorrow
Assume doesn't affect camber? Steering so light?

Now, the not so good
Insurance companies having a laugh this year
For context, my wife had someone run into her car
Seems settled in her favour
Insuracne premium still doubled!!
So anything that registered as a modification pushing me toward being uninsurable

I still want that transmission tune..........