02-17-2023, 10:17 AM | #46 | |
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Are you 100% certain it's broken on the distribution unit side ? If the plastic clamps inside the heated line are snapped, you could just have the same line problem we all had, and be losing pressure because of that. I'd disconnect the line as a first step, to examine the fitting and compare to ECS pictures, and see if you actually have damage there. |
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Samdelph0.00 |
02-17-2023, 10:22 AM | #47 |
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You make a good point, and the answer is No, I don’t know for certain that it is broken. I have been reluctant to pull it off as I. Don’t want to spray AdBlue all over everything until I know what I’m looking for. There are some little “wings” on the fitting that seem to be either broken or detached and it is definitely leaking fluid at that location.
Thanks for the link. I’ll go out and get on the ground and have a look and see what it actually looks like |
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02-17-2023, 10:35 AM | #49 | |
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My line was completely empty when I disconnected it to install the new one. Hope this helps! |
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Samdelph0.00 |
02-17-2023, 05:21 PM | #52 |
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If it means avoiding a $600 part I'm all for it
From some quick googling around, I found this website with closer pictures of the BMW part: https://all-parts.in.ua/16197351665-...854567873.html Bosch part number that's stamped on it looks like a match with this Benz part that's significantly cheaper: https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...400-MFG14.aspx It's a bit of a gamble though, but might be worth a try if the glue fix doesn't work out. |
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closetwagonlover42.00 |
02-18-2023, 06:55 AM | #53 |
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The pressure that it builds in the line is not small so I would try something a bit more industrial than super glue, like JB Weld. If that doesn't work, I quick google on that post number brought up a large variety in price. You might also be lucky to find one or the entire tank with the pump on eBay or car-part.com that should be even cheaper.
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02-18-2023, 07:05 AM | #54 |
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So, to update, I did use JB Weld, because why the hell not at least try it. I drove it 150 miles yesterday. It works and the car runs just fine but I am still getting the pressure fault.
I’ve been looking at tanks on eBay and car-part and they can be had for around 3-500$ for the whole tank with the pump. But it’s a crap shoot as to whether they have fittings or attachment points broken off. I nearly pulled the trigger on an eBay listing only to find, after close examination, that it had the metering line fitting broken off. Honestly though, it looks like the oem tank brand new is only about 950$ if I take the time comparison shop. And I hate to do a repair that will need to be done again in a year because of a faulty tank or sensor. |
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02-18-2023, 07:41 AM | #55 |
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I’m with you on the peace of mind. Does the new tank come with the pump built in or you’d have to buy that too? If it’s included, definitely not a bad call.
You might also need a new line, lots of us getting pressure codes that were caused by the line itself. |
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02-18-2023, 08:34 AM | #56 |
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I also went that route and bought the entire system from a front end wrecked car that I found on FB marketplace. I only replaced the active tank and line, but I have the passive tank and it's pump as well as the other lines, just in case.
BTW my tank replacement fixed my level sensor issue. Didn't even need to drive it to clear the countdown, I had just cleared the codes and then when turning it on with the new tank the countdown didn't pop up. |
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02-18-2023, 10:16 AM | #57 |
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Looking at the tank pictures at ECS, definitely looks like you'd get the pump included in the active tank part number 16197260216: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/16197260216/. Not so bad if you found a new one at $950.
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02-18-2023, 09:33 PM | #58 |
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Yes, if I get the tank, I believe it includes the pump. So it might be the best to go that route.
Also thanks to those of you who reached out by PM. My account isn’t old enough yet to allow me to send private messages. But you can reach me at michaelfeldigan@gmail.com. |
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02-19-2023, 06:33 AM | #59 | |
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Also, be sure to have a good set of torx sockets and keys. You need to remove the rear subframe support to get the active tank out. If you don't have the service instructions I can post them. Lastly, as my tank only had an issue with the level sensor, the pump is fully functional if you wanted to get one used. Make an offer. Otherwise I will just hold onto it until the other one fails. |
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02-19-2023, 08:09 AM | #60 |
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Thanks for the info on FCP.
And as far as the service instructions, that would be great. I have looked for them online a bit and had not found them yet. Also thanks for the offer on the pump, that is very generous of you. I’m still exploring options on repair, but I’ll reach out if I decide to just do the pump. I’ve got to decide if I’m going to try and make all the warning lights go off and be 100% or just drive it as-is for a month or two until I buy the whole tank. The car currently has 192k miles and has had over $10k worth of maintenance in the last year, so it should be good to go for a while, but you never know. Did you have any problems with your replacement tank communicating with your system? Or was it just plug and play? |
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02-19-2023, 11:12 AM | #61 | |
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02-19-2023, 09:52 PM | #62 |
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Thanks to dreaming.haze for the file access (also available in ISTA+) to get the instructions. I have put them all in a PDF attached.
Note: The rear wheel well liner needs to be removed (the manual is for X5 so it shows the front liner). Much of the DEF comes out of the active tank once you get the supply hose off, but not all. The hose clamp is a 6mm bolt. Also not shown is the cross brace that was on my F31 that was directly in the way that attaches from the back lift point. And the bolt on the rear subframe bushing (33 33 1AZ) needs a T50 or T55. The only bolt that gave me an issue (snapped) was the one holding the active tank - its towards the front of the car (M6) as it seems to get a lot of moisture from being near the seam of the tank cover. So maybe purchase one of those if you don't have any extras around. Samdelph : Fully plug and play. I tested the new one before removing the old just to make and it showed up right away. In my case it was a level sensor so it was easy to tell ("SCR: Display of fuel tank level" in ISTA+ that also shows active temp and level and temp in the passive tank) |
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05-30-2023, 04:09 PM | #63 | |
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05-30-2023, 06:07 PM | #64 | |
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I’m pretty sure my leak was on the line since it looks/feels pretty fragile whereas the injector is super sturdy, but most of the DEF buildup was on the injector side (I had put off the repair for 6-8 months by then so it was super caked on). All I did in ISTA was read and clear the codes (a couple times). Once the parts were replaced, the codes never came back. Sorry I can’t be of more help! Last edited by alexandre0; 05-30-2023 at 06:13 PM.. |
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sinitik4.00 |
03-04-2024, 06:07 PM | #65 | |
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blue, def, diesel, f31, scr |
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