Return Of Experience, Android 12, ID8, snapdragon 662 on BMW series 5

Mils31 · 02-06-2023, 03:28 PM

Hello,

I post here as most of the android discussions are there, even if this is on a 5 series. If not acceptable, let me know, I'll move it to the 5 forum.

As promised, here is a REX on my android HU installation, I’ve solved some issues but some remain (for the time being).

Car:
I have a BMW Series 5 M550d, 2016, big screen, Bang & Olufsen audio, GPS, Bluetooth call and music, navi…all of that is under NBT connectivity.

HU:
On aliexpress, I’ve bought a Navifly, Android 12, ID8, 12.3 Qualcomm 662 Android 12 256G blue screen, touchscreen.

GPS cable:
On aliexpress, I’ve also bought a Fakra GPS “Y” cable with a diode to protect android HU (from what I’ve understood) to be able to connect both android HU and OEM unit GPS.

Installation:
Nothing really difficult, lot of tuto there and there, but still some note:

The unit came with a cable AUX already connected to an input on the same wiring, so it was not necessary for me to connect the jack to the armrest AUX input (maybe due to NBT config)
No additional mic provided
Small additional speaker was provided but not used, except for some testing.
4G antenna not used as I’m using my phone to share data via wifi.
GPS antenna not used.

Snapdragon issue:
As I have read there seems to be a lot of fake units, even if Navifly was a recommended vendor, I checked everything with CPU-Z. The Android version was ok, the only difference was that I had a snapdragon 665 and not a 662 as advised. Not a big deal in terms of performance (thanks for the help on this forum) but sufficient for me to claim a discount, which was accepted for 100€.

Audio:
This is what was scaring me the most, audio quality for the B&O system.
I was ready to potentially use a DAC, but fortunately, I think thanks to the NBT config and thanks to that aux connection into the wiring, Audio is as good as before, no change at all. Clearly don’t understand why as I’m still going through AUX OEM…

Mic:
As for everyone, the internal headunit microphone is bad. I tried to modify MIC gain without any success, I tried a chip external microphone which was bad also, I tried a better one still bad, I also tried to cut the internal microphone without any improvement and I finally discovered THE solution.
Here is the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyEPYYKNLLc
Roadtop are selling MMI box and provide with these units a “Y” cable to connect the OEM microphone to the android Head Unit in addition to the OEM unit.
I asked them if they were ok to sell it apart from the MMI box, they accepted for 30€ port included.
I installed it per the video, and I must say that results are above my expectation, voice messages on whatsapp or other stuff are just perfect, and I don't even need to increase MIC gain.

Android auto:
For the time being I don’t use android auto for the following reason:

Resolution is bad…I would be sad to have bought a 12” unit for such a bad resolution.
Responsiveness is slow compared to the ID8 layer
Android HU is using wifi hotspot for connection to the phone which prevents the use of the wifi for data sharing, which therefore make the ID8 layer unusable. It would mean that I would use this HU only for android auto which is not acceptable for me.

I’ve therefore unticked Zlink in the factory settings to prevent automatic hotspot connection and wifi disconnection.
Zlink remains usable by launching the app.

Tasker:
For the moment I’m using tasker to launch phone hotspot, for wifi sharing to get data on the HU. Several guides are available for that.

Calls:
This is the last remaining part for which I’m not fully satisfied with the use.
Like everyone I’m using the OEM calls system but there are still some issues that prevent me from being satisfied, and I don’t desperate to use android calls.

Not in the order because I don’t know how to organize my idea:

Now I have a good mic working and audio working well, I was wondering if I can use the android calls, but there are two issues:
- If my phone is connected to both OEM and android, for a call through android, the audio is not working on the B&O system, I discovered that it goes eventually on the small additional speaker provided for no reason. The only solution is to completely disconnect the bluetooth from the OEM HU and then it's ok.
- With the sound I have a huge echo for the other person on the phone, even with no mic gain and even if the internal mic HU is cut. I have to dig into the echo cancellation feature of android but don’t really know how it works and if it’s configurable on this HU.
If I fully disconnect bluetooth from android to use only OEM calls, I would lose the tasker automatic connection and I would lose the call library and phone repository on the HU, as well as touchscreen use for call, a feature that I’d like to keep.
On the other hand, If I leave the bluetooth connection on both android and OEM, the above works but, in the last android version of my phone I cannot prioritize the bluetooth device to be used. After digging, android uses the bluetooth device you use to answer. For example, if I have a galaxy bud and I answer with it, sound should be on buds, if I have a watch and answer through it, sound would be on watch, etc…As a consequence, if I answer on the android touchscreen, sound is through android,while if I use the phone button on the steering wheel (configured for OEM call in the factory setting) sound is on the OEM call system. I can still change bluetooth in use directly on the phone during the call but this is not practical. Anyway, in this case the touchscreen and therefore the phone repository is not usable.
I have searched on the web if it’s feasible to force a bluetooth device, without any findings. I have tried some tasker stuff to do it but didn’t succeed so far.

Here it is, I think I’ve explained everything, I hope it could help as I spent a lot of time on all your forums to find solutions. If you have any question feel free.

Frankly30 · 02-06-2023, 07:19 PM

Hello Mils31,

could you elaborate further on that "Y" Splitter cable they supplied to you, like did the cable come with extra circuitry, resistors or some kind? I was considering of achieving something similar, if it were just a dumb Y-Splitter.
The Mic is actually wired on the Quadlock itself on NBT, so I wonder what there is that stopped the Android HU devs from just taking Microphone from the Quadlock.

Mjam · 02-06-2023, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mils31

Audio:
This is what was scaring me the most, audio quality for the B&O system.
I was ready to potentially use a DAC, but fortunately, I think thanks to the NBT config and thanks to that aux connection into the wiring, Audio is as good as before, no change at all.
Clearly don’t understand why as I’m still going through AUX OEM…

I have the same experience, there was no audio degradation after installing the Android system. I tried the recommended DAC anyway, to see what I was missing. The sound got worse instead, contrary to everyone else's experience. I think having an external amplifier of good quality, as you have, is what makes a real difference.

Quote:

Mic:
As for everyone, the internal headunit microphone is bad. I tried to modify MIC gain without any success, I tried a chip external microphone which was bad also, I tried a better one still bad, I also tried to cut the internal microphone without any improvement and I finally discovered THE solution.
Here is the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyEPYYKNLLc
Roadtop are selling MMI box and provide with these units a “Y” cable to connect the OEM microphone to the android Head Unit in addition to the OEM unit.

This will work when the OEM system is always powering the mic (and potentially always listening), which I think is the case in newer cars as yours. I'm not sure this will work on older E-models? But a great tip!

Quote:

Calls:[LIST][*][INDENT]If my phone is connected to both OEM and android, for a call through android, the audio is not working on the B&O system, I discovered that it goes eventually on the small additional speaker provided for no reason. The only solution is to completely disconnect the bluetooth from the OEM HU and then it's ok.

Why won't you disconnect the phone form the OEM Bluetooth?

Mils31 · 02-07-2023, 03:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frankly30

Hello Mils31,

could you elaborate further on that "Y" Splitter cable they supplied to you, like did the cable come with extra circuitry, resistors or some kind? I was considering of achieving something similar, if it were just a dumb Y-Splitter.
The Mic is actually wired on the Quadlock itself on NBT, so I wonder what there is that stopped the Android HU devs from just taking Microphone from the Quadlock.

Unless I'm blind, there is no circuit. This is just a dumb Y splitter. It has two type of connectors on the mic side. A small 3 pins (probably last version) and a big 2 pins connector (maybe older one). Both of them have the male and female connector. This make it quite difficult to enter all of that in the roof.
On top of that even if in my case, there is a 3 pin connector, my OEM mic had only 2 pins inside the connector.
I don't understand neither why Android HU dev didn't provide it....and I'm quite surprised to have found this solution working as easy...

Mils31 · 02-07-2023, 03:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mjam

Why won't you disconnect the phone form the OEM Bluetooth?

Because of the echo that I need to solve. But you are right, If I'm able to solve this echo issue, I don't need anymore the phone connected to the OEM BT.

Frankly30 · 02-07-2023, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mils31

Unless I'm blind, there is no circuit. This is just a dumb Y splitter. It has two type of connectors on the mic side. A small 3 pins (probably last version) and a big 2 pins connector (maybe older one). Both of them have the male and female connector. This make it quite difficult to enter all of that in the roof.
On top of that even if in my case, there is a 3 pin connector, my OEM mic had only 2 pins inside the connector.
I don't understand neither why Android HU dev didn't provide it....and I'm quite surprised to have found this solution working as easy...

If that's indeed the case one could theoretically come up with a cable like yours with just these two parts without any soldering:
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005004122915335.html - The Splitter
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005003563725244.html - AUX Connector

If you don't have the telematic communication box, you could probably even extract those same wires from quadlock adapter without needing to route extra wires through your A-pilar.

binaryagent · 04-29-2023, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mils31

Here it is, I think I’ve explained everything, I hope it could help as I spent a lot of time on all your forums to find solutions. If you have any question feel free.

I have a very similar Mekede HU. One phone test and there is echo. What was your final solution?

Also, the Equalizer app has no effect on sound. Can you verify?

If your sound drops when you switch to OEM menu use KSW-Tookit to fix.

inigoale · 10-25-2023, 12:41 AM

hello.
I have the same problem with the microphone, they hear me terribly.
Could you give me the exact link for the cable? I can't find it on the roadtop website.
Greetings and thanks in advance

vince78 · 03-05-2024, 04:52 AM

Hi all,

Many thanks for your respective feedbacks, and a particular thanks to Mils31 for all these details.

I will also share some experience with my F11 2012 with a CIC system :

1) in 2023 : I installed an MMI box in order to bring Carplay
- I had to install the additional wire in order to connect the MMI box with the OEM mic, as shown in the Roadtop video
- I had to connect the AUX cable to the OEM AUX plug under the armrest

=> Carplay works, but screen was not touch sensitive. And the sound was quit horrible. On top of that, the system was freezing sometimes.
Hence I decided to replace that MMI and OEM screen by a 10"25 inch screen powered by Linux

2) in 2024 : I replaced the MMI box and old OEM screen with a 10"25 integrated screen powered by Linux and a Sunplus chipset.
Installation was really easy : only the harness wire + USB cable. No other cables needed : neither AUX nor Jack for OEM mic !
=> And I can tell you : result is really good.

3) Now, I would like to switch to a 12"3 screen, but I am really cautious with the product to choose : I don't want any additional AUX cable, no jack cable for the OEM mic (nor external mic).

After some investigation, I understand that :
- for screens powered by Linux : no need any AUX cable, no additional mic. All OEM
- for screens powered by Android :
a. if MTK chipset, then you need to wire AUX
b. if Snapdragon, then no need to wire AUX, according to the seller on aliexpress

What's your views ?

I hope it will be helpful for those who are considering for an upgrade of their OEM screens.

02-06-2023, 03:28 PM	#1
Mils31 New Member 4 Rep 6 Posts Drives: BMW F11 M550d 2016 Join Date: Jan 2023 Location: Toulouse iTrader: (0)	Return Of Experience, Android 12, ID8, snapdragon 662 on BMW series 5 Hello, I post here as most of the android discussions are there, even if this is on a 5 series. If not acceptable, let me know, I'll move it to the 5 forum. As promised, here is a REX on my android HU installation, I’ve solved some issues but some remain (for the time being). Car: I have a BMW Series 5 M550d, 2016, big screen, Bang & Olufsen audio, GPS, Bluetooth call and music, navi…all of that is under NBT connectivity. HU: On aliexpress, I’ve bought a Navifly, Android 12, ID8, 12.3 Qualcomm 662 Android 12 256G blue screen, touchscreen. GPS cable: On aliexpress, I’ve also bought a Fakra GPS “Y” cable with a diode to protect android HU (from what I’ve understood) to be able to connect both android HU and OEM unit GPS. Installation: Nothing really difficult, lot of tuto there and there, but still some note: The unit came with a cable AUX already connected to an input on the same wiring, so it was not necessary for me to connect the jack to the armrest AUX input (maybe due to NBT config) No additional mic provided Small additional speaker was provided but not used, except for some testing. 4G antenna not used as I’m using my phone to share data via wifi. GPS antenna not used. Snapdragon issue: As I have read there seems to be a lot of fake units, even if Navifly was a recommended vendor, I checked everything with CPU-Z. The Android version was ok, the only difference was that I had a snapdragon 665 and not a 662 as advised. Not a big deal in terms of performance (thanks for the help on this forum) but sufficient for me to claim a discount, which was accepted for 100€. Audio: This is what was scaring me the most, audio quality for the B&O system. I was ready to potentially use a DAC, but fortunately, I think thanks to the NBT config and thanks to that aux connection into the wiring, Audio is as good as before, no change at all. Clearly don’t understand why as I’m still going through AUX OEM… Mic: As for everyone, the internal headunit microphone is bad. I tried to modify MIC gain without any success, I tried a chip external microphone which was bad also, I tried a better one still bad, I also tried to cut the internal microphone without any improvement and I finally discovered THE solution. Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyEPYYKNLLc Roadtop are selling MMI box and provide with these units a “Y” cable to connect the OEM microphone to the android Head Unit in addition to the OEM unit. I asked them if they were ok to sell it apart from the MMI box, they accepted for 30€ port included. I installed it per the video, and I must say that results are above my expectation, voice messages on whatsapp or other stuff are just perfect, and I don't even need to increase MIC gain. Android auto: For the time being I don’t use android auto for the following reason: Resolution is bad…I would be sad to have bought a 12” unit for such a bad resolution. Responsiveness is slow compared to the ID8 layer Android HU is using wifi hotspot for connection to the phone which prevents the use of the wifi for data sharing, which therefore make the ID8 layer unusable. It would mean that I would use this HU only for android auto which is not acceptable for me. I’ve therefore unticked Zlink in the factory settings to prevent automatic hotspot connection and wifi disconnection. Zlink remains usable by launching the app. Tasker: For the moment I’m using tasker to launch phone hotspot, for wifi sharing to get data on the HU. Several guides are available for that. Calls: This is the last remaining part for which I’m not fully satisfied with the use. Like everyone I’m using the OEM calls system but there are still some issues that prevent me from being satisfied, and I don’t desperate to use android calls. Not in the order because I don’t know how to organize my idea: Now I have a good mic working and audio working well, I was wondering if I can use the android calls, but there are two issues: If my phone is connected to both OEM and android, for a call through android, the audio is not working on the B&O system, I discovered that it goes eventually on the small additional speaker provided for no reason. The only solution is to completely disconnect the bluetooth from the OEM HU and then it's ok. With the sound I have a huge echo for the other person on the phone, even with no mic gain and even if the internal mic HU is cut. I have to dig into the echo cancellation feature of android but don’t really know how it works and if it’s configurable on this HU. If I fully disconnect bluetooth from android to use only OEM calls, I would lose the tasker automatic connection and I would lose the call library and phone repository on the HU, as well as touchscreen use for call, a feature that I’d like to keep. On the other hand, If I leave the bluetooth connection on both android and OEM, the above works but, in the last android version of my phone I cannot prioritize the bluetooth device to be used. After digging, android uses the bluetooth device you use to answer. For example, if I have a galaxy bud and I answer with it, sound should be on buds, if I have a watch and answer through it, sound would be on watch, etc…As a consequence, if I answer on the android touchscreen, sound is through android,while if I use the phone button on the steering wheel (configured for OEM call in the factory setting) sound is on the OEM call system. I can still change bluetooth in use directly on the phone during the call but this is not practical. Anyway, in this case the touchscreen and therefore the phone repository is not usable. I have searched on the web if it’s feasible to force a bluetooth device, without any findings. I have tried some tasker stuff to do it but didn’t succeed so far. Here it is, I think I’ve explained everything, I hope it could help as I spent a lot of time on all your forums to find solutions. If you have any question feel free.
	Appreciate 2 Mjam133.50 Saito1.50 Tweet Quote

02-06-2023, 07:19 PM	#2
Frankly30 Private First Class 137 Rep 159 Posts Drives: F30 Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Germany iTrader: (0)	Hello Mils31, could you elaborate further on that "Y" Splitter cable they supplied to you, like did the cable come with extra circuitry, resistors or some kind? I was considering of achieving something similar, if it were just a dumb Y-Splitter. The Mic is actually wired on the Quadlock itself on NBT, so I wonder what there is that stopped the Android HU devs from just taking Microphone from the Quadlock.
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10-25-2023, 12:41 AM	#8
inigoale Enlisted Member 0 Rep 46 Posts Drives: bmw f30 328d 150cv lci Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: spain iTrader: (0)	hello. I have the same problem with the microphone, they hear me terribly. Could you give me the exact link for the cable? I can't find it on the roadtop website. Greetings and thanks in advance
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03-05-2024, 04:52 AM	#9
vince78 Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: F11 530XD 2012 Join Date: Mar 2024 Location: Paris iTrader: (0)	Upgrade OEM screen with limited/no changes in wiring Hi all, Many thanks for your respective feedbacks, and a particular thanks to Mils31 for all these details. I will also share some experience with my F11 2012 with a CIC system : 1) in 2023 : I installed an MMI box in order to bring Carplay - I had to install the additional wire in order to connect the MMI box with the OEM mic, as shown in the Roadtop video - I had to connect the AUX cable to the OEM AUX plug under the armrest => Carplay works, but screen was not touch sensitive. And the sound was quit horrible. On top of that, the system was freezing sometimes. Hence I decided to replace that MMI and OEM screen by a 10"25 inch screen powered by Linux 2) in 2024 : I replaced the MMI box and old OEM screen with a 10"25 integrated screen powered by Linux and a Sunplus chipset. Installation was really easy : only the harness wire + USB cable. No other cables needed : neither AUX nor Jack for OEM mic ! => And I can tell you : result is really good. 3) Now, I would like to switch to a 12"3 screen, but I am really cautious with the product to choose : I don't want any additional AUX cable, no jack cable for the OEM mic (nor external mic). After some investigation, I understand that : - for screens powered by Linux : no need any AUX cable, no additional mic. All OEM - for screens powered by Android : a. if MTK chipset, then you need to wire AUX b. if Snapdragon, then no need to wire AUX, according to the seller on aliexpress What's your views ? I hope it will be helpful for those who are considering for an upgrade of their OEM screens.
	Appreciate 0 Quote