[weehe126]

Looking for opinions on using these suspension setups for autocross/DD. I currently have Koni yellows with H&R sport springs and camber plates. Started auto crossing this year and have actually been very competitive. Won my STU class and consistently in top 1/4 - 1/3 PAX.

I'd like to be even more competitive and was wondering if I would actually notice a different with either of these coilovers vs the yellows. If it is an obvious improvement going to coilovers, is the $2k extra price for MCS worth it? Or, how good of a drive would I have to be to even notice a different between the two?

[brigade24]

Last i checked, MCS was only able to do a setup for the F30 in the remote version so the 2WR and not the 2WNR. perhaps things have changed.

there will be a def difference between the Konis and MCS...the adjustability of the MCS will require some time to figure out but once you do, it'll will make the car more competitive than on konis. The ohlins are also very good but would need to be revalved to be competitive with MCS.

the worth depends on what you're trying to do or how badly you want to win.

I did the same as you a few years ago in my 335. Did well (2nd) at a couple of SCCA National Champ Tours for a couple of years. I never placed well at Solo Nationals though it was a different game entirely but I would be curious to see the B58 run in STU...you've got tons of torque in the right place, with good suspension, wide rubber, some tuning and diff...you might do some damage.

[weehe126]

This is what I was planning to buy: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...et-non-CO.html
I've pretty much decided I will be getting these because the cost of the Ohlins will probably be close after getting them revalved. Also, I'm pretty sure the MCS will be more comfortable for a DD than the Ohlins.

The car does surprisingly well for a class that's normally AWD. The 8AT gearing is actually very ideal, just keep it in 2nd the whole time. After the coilovers the only other thing I would plan to do is get wider rims with custom offsets to run F275/R295 tires. Currently running 255/275.

[weehe126]

Ordered the 2WNR yesterday, complete setup from bimmerworld. They recommend 600#/900# springs but I settled on 500#/900#. Felt a front frequency of 2.4 vs a rear of 1.8 would not be fun to drive in the streets. I'll do a review once I get them in and get some set time.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Ordered the 2WNR yesterday, complete setup from bimmerworld. They recommend 600#/900# springs but I settled on 500#/900#. Felt a front frequency of 2.4 vs a rear of 1.8 would not be fun to drive in the streets. I'll do a review once I get them in and get some set time.

Update?

[weehe126]

I actually just finished installing them and did an initial alignment, waiting a bit for everything to settle. Initial impressions are WOW. Smoother ride than the koni yellows, zero body roll and takes turns as if on rails. I'll do a full write up once I get more driving time.

[E90lova]

Good, better, best. In that order from Koni to MCS.

[E90lova]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Ordered the 2WNR yesterday, complete setup from bimmerworld. They recommend 600#/900# springs but I settled on 500#/900#. Felt a front frequency of 2.4 vs a rear of 1.8 would not be fun to drive in the streets. I'll do a review once I get them in and get some set time.

I probably would've ran 425F, 900R. Having a stiffer front to rear ratio takes away from the car being neutral. I just raised my rear spring from 900 to 1000 with 450F. Car rotates way better and I know this would make it more suitable for autocross.

[mike082802]

Originally Posted by E90lova

I probably would've ran 425F, 900R. Having a stiffer front to rear ratio takes away from the car being neutral. I just raised my rear spring from 900 to 1000 with 450F. Car rotates way better and I know this would make it more suitable for autocross.

I run 450F/916R on the OHLINS, its fine to daily. I started with 375F 800R and it was too soft on track. Cant tell a difference on the street.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by E90lova

I probably would've ran 425F, 900R. Having a stiffer front to rear ratio takes away from the car being neutral. I just raised my rear spring from 900 to 1000 with 450F. Car rotates way better and I know this would make it more suitable for autocross.

450 vs 500# isn't that significantly different. I was just going on their recommendations. So far no issues with DD/comfort. Haven't started dialing in a race setting but at the recommended starting points it handles completely neutral. If I want to rotate more I just give it some more gas.