[1QuikWS6]

Car is 2015 435ix N55 w/Precision Raceworks Ignition Kit, NGK 97506 1 step colder plugs and BM3 Stg 2 Cary Jordan custom tune.

Car not driven that much at all since Covid & I am work from home permanently.

Plugs & coils were installed in 2020 but that was only 3K miles ago...


Took her our for a drive this weekend & about 1 mile from house under light throttle I suddenly got the dreaded engine warning & Idrive 'Drive Moderately full engine power not available'. Car had a noticeable rough idle & I could feel it during drive.

Went directly home & checked codes using Foxwell NT510:

20AD09 Engine Cooling System: auxillary coolant pump speed outside of tolerance (is this referring to the main pump or the aux pump that is shown to be in my car since it has the MSport pkg?)

CD9003 LIN, Communication electric coolant pump 2 missing

140010 Combustion misfires, several cylinders detected

140110 Combustion misfire cylinder 1 detected

140001 Misfire several cylinders fuel injection is switched off

140101 Misfire cylinder 1 injection is switched off

140002 Misfire several cylinders damaging exhaust gas after startup

140102 Misfire cylinder 1 damaging exhaust gas after startup

So I kinda ignored the coolant errors & went right to troubleshooting for misfire

• Checked all plug wires for proper seating & damage = OK
• Checked all plugs = OK (didn't think there would be an issue after only 3k miles)
• Cleared codes, swapped coil 1 & 2 to see if the error carried over to cyl 2 = NO, so assume no coil issues either

Error codes all continue thru the same. Now I'm wondering if this is not an ignition issue at all leading to the misfire codes - but all stemming from a defective coolant pump??

Would a malfunctioning pump lead the car to auto switch off the injectors to force you to ez drive since there is no coolant flow & the car would overheat faster?

Seems a roundabout way of doing things, would have been nice if the only codes were either the coolant for that issue, or the misfire for an ignition/injector issue

Hard to tell if pump is running or not since the temps got to 228 deg during the idle time of the test & I never really take note of normal temps

> I know these pumps are prone to outage & don't give any warning, just quit working, but at only 42k miles?

Any help with someone familiar whether this could actually just be a coolant pump issue would be great

I know the IND I use will be able to tell, but I just want to try & purchase only the parts I need for the IND I use ahead of time instead of waiting till they tell me & having car set there till parts arrive

[thejeremyman9]

So you only swapped the coil from 1-2, not the plug?

[n55david]

Check the life % on the battery.. and if it's never been changed..

[1QuikWS6]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

So you only swapped the coil from 1-2, not the plug?

Yeah my bad, I swapped coil, plug wire, control wire 1 for 2 but did NOT swap the plug.

I pulled the #1 plug & it looked OK visibly & didn't think it could go bad in just 3K miles

Ordered a set of new NGK, installed new plug in #1 today & that problem solved

As for the waterpump codes, I checked the wiring harness to the aux pump which is right below the expansion tank & to the right & it was fine. Just for S&G I looked up location of the fuse for that pump. Located in front box DS under hood. When I got in there there was NO fuse present in the proper slot = empty

Installed proper fuse & the code for the pump went away. The mystery is that I have never been in that fusebox before, purchased the car new, never had anyone other than myself do any mechanical work under the hood just tires/brakes.

But I have scanned the car for codes hundreds of times since I bought the car new & NEVER pulled up those WP codes - so why did they suddenly appear now? Did the factory forget to put a fuse from the start?

And finally, when I pulled the engine cover I saw a bunch of eaten seeds n such laying on top of the intake on DS. Didn't think much of it new 'someone' had been staying there for some period of time. Today looking closer I see that the mouse also chewed thru the signal wire going to the MAP sensor on intake. Apparently it has no effect on how the car runs, but would explain why the Boost Pressure reading on my AWRON Gage decided to set @ 0.0 for some time now...

So (2) issues resolved & gonna repair the MAP connector wire this weekend

[1QuikWS6]

Originally Posted by n55david

Check the life % on the battery.. and if it's never been changed..

New battery/coding done end of last yr & I keep the car on trickle charger constantly since I hardly ever drive it

[thejeremyman9]

I had rats chew through wires on my 3000gt since it sits quite a bit. I bought the peppermint repellent spray from home depot and sprayed around the perimeter of the car

[1QuikWS6]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I had rats chew through wires on my 3000gt since it sits quite a bit. I bought the peppermint repellent spray from home depot and sprayed around the perimeter of the car

Has that been working for you? I see the peppermint oil stuff to put under the hood and the electronic repellers. Both of them seem to have 1/2 the reviewers saying they are great while the other half state the mice/rats build their nest right on top or near either of them

[thejeremyman9]

I never had the problem again. Maybe it was a fluke the first time, can't say for sure. But i linked the aerosol spray i use below. It says specifically do not spray ON the car/engine, so i didnt do that. I just sprayed the entire perimeter and a little mist under the car.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TOMCAT-1...0605/302683092

When i was doing research i saw the same things it sounds like you are - several options and mixed reviews. This stuff definitely smells strong when you spray it FWIW.