[BeastMode335i]

Car: 2013 F30 335i 127k miles

Last week I had to replace my upper radiator hose as it broke off right under the OFHG area. Well now this morning I get hit with a multitude of different things. My oil temp started to rise, got up to 270F, this fan kicked on extremely loud, acceleration was significantly hindered when under throttle, and I noticed what appeared to be a slight radiator leak right next to where I replaced the upper radiator hose, as I saw a noticeable amount of moisture and steam in that area when I popped the hood. Any chance these issues are all somehow related? Coolant leak + high oil temp + loud fan noise + hindered acceleration?

I do get an occasional thermostat code, so I just ordered a new thermostat, but I cleared that code last week and since then I've only gotten one other code which doesn't want to clear.

421722- DME/DDE interface forced upshift due to thermal engine protection request or signal invalid. (switch status, warm-up, powertrain, 0x3FB).

Thanks!

[F32Fleet]

Replace thermostat.

What brand of hose did you use?

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

Replace thermostat.

What brand of hose did you use?

It was a Rein hose, got it from FCP Euro.

Thermostat is being replaced once it arrives, also just ordered from FCP.

But I'm still kind of confused on how a coolant leak could raise oil temps and cause weird acceleration behavior. Could the thermostat being bad cause that fan to kick on super high and somehow affect the oil temp?

[Mkesler75]

So you replaced the so called Mickey Mouse flange. Did you get all the pieces of the old flange out of there? Did you bleed the system after install?

[DreamerJoe]

Originally Posted by Mkesler75

So you replaced the so called Mickey Mouse flange. Did you get all the pieces of the old flange out of there? Did you bleed the system after install?

This ^ and you can lookup the bleed procedure online. iirc it’s something like keep car in accessory, not running, and hold the brake pedal for a period of time. Been a few years but I remember it was simple.. and messy because I filled to the fill line prior to bleeding.

[Orion4]

https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/how-to-...ding-procedure

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

It was a Rein hose, got it from FCP Euro.

Thermostat is being replaced once it arrives, also just ordered from FCP.

But I'm still kind of confused on how a coolant leak could raise oil temps and cause weird acceleration behavior. Could the thermostat being bad cause that fan to kick on super high and somehow affect the oil temp?

The coolant is used to cool the oil -

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0676

Part 25

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

The coolant is used to cool the oil -

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0676

Part 25

Btw, If OP does not have M sport package this diagram does not apply. Didn't see him mention his car's trim.

Also OP, are you saying you replaced part 3? Aka the "Mickey Mouse" hose

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_5169

Or did you replace Part 1 here?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0655

[BeastMode335i]

Sorry guys, I already replaced the mickey mouse flange some time ago. I actually found out it was my radiator that was cracked along the side right under my upper radiator hose. I imagine the radiator hose bursting and spewing boiling hot water all over the radiator played a part in it's demise.

My issue now is removing this radiator, as I have m-sports package and I believe I need to remove the transmission cooler lines that connect on the passenger side up top. I don't see how this radiator would be able to come out without removing at least one of these hoses, but I don't see that in any of the DIY's out there. There's a little bleeder on top of said hose, so I'm not sure if removing that hose and introducing air into the transmission cooler is a "no-no", or if there is some other magic way to remove this radiator without removing at least one of those two hoses.

[BeastMode335i]

This hose is the one I need to remove to get out the radiator. Do I need to do any sort of bleeding once I get it back on, as it has a bleeder screw on top of the connection.

Update - So I removed those two cooler lines, and this thing just doesn't want to come out. I tilted it towards the engine, and it feels super free until I lift up, and it just keeps feeling stuck. I'm done with this job for the day, been like 4 hours of hurdles lol. I'll try again tomorrow in the daylight.

[rlesko]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

This hose is the one I need to remove to get out the radiator. Do I need to do any sort of bleeding once I get it back on, as it has a bleeder screw on top of the connection.

Update - So I removed those two cooler lines, and this thing just doesn't want to come out. I tilted it towards the engine, and it feels super free until I lift up, and it just keeps feeling stuck. I'm done with this job for the day, been like 4 hours of hurdles lol. I'll try again tomorrow in the daylight.

The transmission cooler looks like it has a screw to hold it in place. Did you remove it?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0638

[BeastMode335i]

Actually got the radiator out once I had daylight today, and got the new stuff reinstalled. However, after putting in a new radiator, new thermostat, and bleeding the system, after a short 5 minute drive my cooling fan again cranked up to jet engine levels of loud, and my oil temp started to creep up to 265F. Coolant temp was at 215F during this occurrence, and I'm throwing no codes.

Smh...

[BeastMode335i]

When I did the bleeding procedure, it went on for about 20 minutes. I know the typical time is 12 minutes. Wonder if this could have anything to do with my high fan speed + high oil temp.

[drumminman]

i’ve been having a similar issue. usually the car can cruise at 80mph+ with oil temps at 230-240f. one day the oil temp started to rise without stopping. i turned on the heater when the temp got to 255f and the temp went back down to ~230f. i have bimmerlink and i took measurements and the coolant and oil temps would rise if the heater was not turned on and i noticed the water pump would idle at 33*rpm unless the heater was on and it turned up to 151*rpm. i determined it was the water pump after a bunch a research replaced pump thermo and coolant with original bmw parts. did the bleed procedure. took it out for 2hours. and the water pump was doing its thing ramping up and down and the oil never left 245f. i went on a long trip yesterday and it the coolant stayed at 225-230f the entire time and the water pump was working but the oil kept climbing and climbing. highest was 255f and i turned on the heater and it went down again to 230-240f. i attached a bimmerlink log with some notes. i am at the end of my rope. i have bled the system 20 times over and it still overheats. oh and the bleeding procedure never once stopped on its own.
i have searched up and down the internet for answers i do not know what it could be.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by drumminman

i’ve been having a similar issue. usually the car can cruise at 80mph+ with oil temps at 230-240f. one day the oil temp started to rise without stopping. i turned on the heater when the temp got to 255f and the temp went back down to ~230f. i have bimmerlink and i took measurements and the coolant and oil temps would rise if the heater was not turned on and i noticed the water pump would idle at 33*rpm unless the heater was on and it turned up to 151*rpm. i determined it was the water pump after a bunch a research replaced pump thermo and coolant with original bmw parts. did the bleed procedure. took it out for 2hours. and the water pump was doing its thing ramping up and down and the oil never left 245f. i went on a long trip yesterday and it the coolant stayed at 225-230f the entire time and the water pump was working but the oil kept climbing and climbing. highest was 255f and i turned on the heater and it went down again to 230-240f. i attached a bimmerlink log with some notes. i am at the end of my rope. i have bled the system 20 times over and it still overheats. oh and the bleeding procedure never once stopped on its own.
i have searched up and down the internet for answers i do not know what it could be.

Damn, guess I'm not the only one who's been scratching their head. Kind of nuts to see such a drastic swing in temps on your setup though.

I went out and found I had another small leak through that skinny hose that runs across the upper part of the body. I swapped that out yesterday and then when I went to do the bleed procedure, my water pump started squealing like crazy when I'd hear it start to spin up. It would start to make the humming/spinning noise, then start squealing, then stop, and it repeated this like 3-4 times before actually bleeding the system. So looks like I'm ordering a water pump today.

[drumminman]

Originally Posted by drumminman

i’ve been having a similar issue. usually the car can cruise at 80mph+ with oil temps at 230-240f. one day the oil temp started to rise without stopping. i turned on the heater when the temp got to 255f and the temp went back down to ~230f. i have bimmerlink and i took measurements and the coolant and oil temps would rise if the heater was not turned on and i noticed the water pump would idle at 33*rpm unless the heater was on and it turned up to 151*rpm. i determined it was the water pump after a bunch a research replaced pump thermo and coolant with original bmw parts. did the bleed procedure. took it out for 2hours. and the water pump was doing its thing ramping up and down and the oil never left 245f. i went on a long trip yesterday and it the coolant stayed at 225-230f the entire time and the water pump was working but the oil kept climbing and climbing. highest was 255f and i turned on the heater and it went down again to 230-240f. i attached a bimmerlink log with some notes. i am at the end of my rope. i have bled the system 20 times over and it still overheats. oh and the bleeding procedure never once stopped on its own.
i have searched up and down the internet for answers i do not know what it could be.

UPDATE: 05/30/24
took it to the dealership after much contemplation. talked to the service guy there, he’d been working at the service department fro 27 years and the head mechanic guy also some 20+ years there too. he said he remembers when the first round of N20’s came around in 2012 and and they got people coming to them with similar type of questions. according to both of them, the oil range should be between 240f to 260f. said that the turbo engines will always run hotter than NA ones (which sure but i never thought it would be a matter of 30-40 degrees in difference) i asked about how it was possible that before i wasn’t getting the same temps and he said he can’t really say but that probably the coolant type was different (which when i got the car, the coolant was red coolant not the factory blue). but he ran all diagnostics and everything and zero error codes, fault codes, permanent codes, not a single one. i will be testing out that “260f” claim sometime tonight and i’ll report back. super freaking weird.

[drumminman]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

Damn, guess I'm not the only one who's been scratching their head. Kind of nuts to see such a drastic swing in temps on your setup though.

I went out and found I had another small leak through that skinny hose that runs across the upper part of the body. I swapped that out yesterday and then when I went to do the bleed procedure, my water pump started squealing like crazy when I'd hear it start to spin up. It would start to make the humming/spinning noise, then start squealing, then stop, and it repeated this like 3-4 times before actually bleeding the system. So looks like I'm ordering a water pump today.

it never leaked or got to the point where the pump was making any noise. so i can’t say. normally they’re very quiet. running the bleeding procedure, you hear the water before the pump.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by drumminman

it never leaked or got to the point where the pump was making any noise. so i can’t say. normally they’re very quiet. running the bleeding procedure, you hear the water before the pump.

Ahh so you got lucky in that respect. Mine hasn't started leaking at the WP either, but making that loud squealing noise was a quick indicator that something wasn't right. Haven't gotten the new one in yet, but it's otw.