06-01-2020, 10:20 PM | #375 |
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If you are not sure on the power source just use the miniDC Isolator. You can use the REM out to turn on/off your power amp. REM in is to turn ON/OFF your MiniDSP 2x4 HD.
Refer to below link for integration. Treat the stereo input in the documentation as underseat Left and Right Input. Channel One and Two for underseat Left and Right Output. Channel 3 (sum of 2 input) for Subwoofer output. Try out 70hz LR 24db/oct between your underseat sub and subwoofer first. https://www.minidsp.com/applications...ub-integration. Last edited by pierreye; 06-01-2020 at 10:28 PM.. |
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06-02-2020, 02:17 PM | #376 | ||
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Regarding the amps, the ACM has a BYPASS option, which I will use, right? The sub amp doesn't. I guess I would set the amp crossover the same as what I set on the minidsp? |
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06-02-2020, 08:01 PM | #377 |
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Do not set the amp crossover similar to minidsp. If you do this, it will stack the low pass filter. Do a bypass in the amp crossover and only use miniDSP digital crossover. I would suggest try to research how to integrate multiple drivers using crossover, EQ and delay. The goal is smooth transition from multiple drivers. For example, mid bass driver for underseat sub covering 70hz to 180hz and sub bass driver from 20hz to 70hz. The slope will determine how steep you want to transition from each driver. The nearer your crossover to limit of the lower freq of your driver, the steeper you need to set the filter (in terms of higher order, you will see option like 12db/oct which is 2nd order and 24db/oct which is 4th order). Since this is lower frequency we don't have to worry about speakers off axis response pattern.
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06-07-2020, 01:05 AM | #378 | ||
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Been doing more research, and am contemplating whether to remove everything and install an UP7 amp with my Mobridge DA-1. The UP7 contains all the features of my current set-up plus additional power to the front/rear doors. It would be an all-in-one system, besides the trunk sub/amp. Plus the AF DSP software is quite user friendly. I would have to confirm whether the harness from my previous Match 82DSP is compatible with the UP7. It looks like it might be. Thoughts? |
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06-07-2020, 02:08 AM | #379 |
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No experience with Mobridge DA-1 but looks like workable. You will need to disconnect 2 rear channels behind the seat which doesn't really matter for 2 channel music. It does simplify the setup.
Here's the link someone doing exactly what you have in mind. https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show...8&postcount=36 Last edited by pierreye; 06-07-2020 at 02:15 AM.. |
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06-13-2020, 01:47 AM | #380 |
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Drives: 2017 F31 330xi
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Looks like Audiofrog will make a shallow 8" sub soon. I'm not sure what the fancy numbers mean but I know some of you do. Thoughts?
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06-13-2020, 09:36 AM | #381 |
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It has lower sensitivity than the stock hi-fi woofer, so if you were to do a simple driver swap it wouldn't be as loud, requiring around 110w to equal the output of the stock woofer at 50w. If separately amplified its 250w power rating and 10mm excursion capability would allow it to go louder than the stock woofer.
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06-14-2020, 11:45 AM | #382 | |
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Other Car Audio forums lean towards the Audio Development W800neo, Illusion Audio C8-W, and Focal Utopia 8WM for under seat woofers in BMW's. It should go without saying, those installing these woofers are also adding powerful aftermarket amplifiers and high end DSP's. Most will also have a sub-woofer. |
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11-05-2020, 11:15 AM | #383 |
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Hey, Guys.
Have just read full thread and still have few questions. I have F30 LCI with base audio - no tweeters and no separate AMP. I want to make an upgrade to have a proper sound quality and almost all comparisons are Hi-fi or HK to something at OEM side. In my case I have base system. So to my knowledge AMP is main upgrade in Hi-fi and HK systems, so in my case it is absolutely necessary. So 3 steps of what I see at this point: 1. I try to get only AMP with DSP installed and see how the base drivers work from there. 2. Add 2 way system in front door. 3. Add under seat subs. Let me know your opinion how many steps I should start with as I am not going to do installation myself, so the price differs if I choose to do upgrade in one or two steps. Additional question is has anyone heard of these (Zapco made): https://www.esbcar.com/bmw-sub-1 Thanks for the answers! |
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11-05-2020, 12:18 PM | #384 | |
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- Replace all OEM speakers with aftermarket -front component set, rear coaxials, 8" woofers.
- add aftermarket amp+DSP - Match UP 7DSP, Helix P SIX DSP MK2, JL Audio VX600/6i, Mosconi One 70.6 for example. Replacing all OEM speakers is a must when adding an aftermarket amp+DSP, IMO. They just not sound any better with more power. Quote:
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11-12-2020, 03:22 PM | #385 | |
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Last edited by SD Convert; 11-12-2020 at 04:18 PM.. |
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11-12-2020, 03:30 PM | #386 | |
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OP has base (Stereo) system, not HiFi.
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11-12-2020, 03:54 PM | #387 |
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11-12-2020, 03:59 PM | #388 |
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I wouldn't buy OEM drivers except at used prices. While they are very good they're not deserving of the price they go for. These are just as good, and the price is right:
https://www.parts-express.com/4-glas...odels--292-490 https://www.parts-express.com/1-tita...odels--292-498 Note that the prices are for a pair. |
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11-12-2020, 04:02 PM | #389 | |
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Win-Win - We need more of these |
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11-12-2020, 07:23 PM | #390 |
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There is no upgrade to HiFi without a complete OEM HiFi harness. There is no “huge” savings, and the work to retrofit just the OEM harness is not worth the sound quality improvement.
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11-12-2020, 09:23 PM | #391 |
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The original OEM setup doesn’t have crossovers between the midranges and tweeters. It only has a cheap capacitor that keeps the midrange out of the tweeters. It doesn’t do a very good job of it, leading to distortion. There’s no filtering on the midranges to keep the high frequencies out of them, so literally a quarter of the high frequencies are lost going to the midranges that can't reproduce them.
This third order high pass filter is sixteen times more effective than a single capacitor in blocking midrange from the tweeters. The low pass filter is second order. By using a third order high pass with a second order low pass polarity issues are avoided. These are the parts: 8.2uf cap: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...citor--027-426 20uF cap: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...citor--027-436 0.1mH coil: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...-coil--257-020 0.2mH coil: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...-coil--257-024 These filters tap into the wiring to the drivers. The tweeters normally plug into the midranges, so you have to create a ‘Y’ in the wire leading to each midrange. One leg of the wire goes to the low pass filter and then to the midrange, the other goes to the high pass filter and then to the tweeter. The capacitor on the factory wire between the midrange and tweeter is discarded. The components can be hot melt glued and plastic zip tied to perf boards for placement in the doors. https://www.parts-express.com/red-pe...5-x-5--260-180 Last edited by Billfitz; 08-24-2022 at 09:56 PM.. |
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11-22-2020, 11:14 PM | #392 | |
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12-15-2020, 11:16 AM | #394 | |
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12-15-2020, 12:18 PM | #396 |
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