04-13-2021, 04:47 PM | #3961 | |
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04-17-2021, 09:48 AM | #3962 | |
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Thanks for the assist on this last year. There was a lot of back and forth which took place with the display unit going back to China more than once. The support for VioVox was very good through all of it. Finally about 1 month ago after having a custom build on the unit complete (changing motherboard so that I could get 1920 display with NBT-EVO) it is all together. Once the unit was finally working and installed I found I made an oversight about the quality of the audio since it requires AUX-IN for the audio to be routed into the BMW system as I understand. I spent quite a lot on the entire audio system upgrade so the low signal quality was not acceptable. In the end I purchased a USB sound card which plugs into the Android nav unit and redirects all the audio without any processing to SPDIF optical out which runs to my Audiotech Fischer amp optical input. It's taken 11 months to get this thing done but now I have the kind of sound quality I was after along with the flexibility of the android system. |
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04-17-2021, 11:56 AM | #3963 | |
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Last edited by Mjam; 04-17-2021 at 12:02 PM.. |
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05-11-2021, 02:30 AM | #3964 |
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So I did something a bit different on my e66, but it may be translatable to other e-series. the e65/66 are all sorts of "different" in the MMI department.
So started with your standard 8.8 Snapdragon 1280x480. I just wanted if for CarPlay. Mine came with wireless CarPlay, but I ended up just buying a wired dongle anyway. Keeping a touch screen in the stock location makes it, umm...untouchable because it's so far recessed. It's not an intergraded touch screen. It’s an LCD, with a digitizer taped to it. They don't even use the double sided tape on the back of the digitizer, it's just taped on with clear packing tape. It's bad enough that the digitizer is highly reflective, and the bigger the gap between screen and digitizer, the worse the reflections. I went looking for possible suitable replacement plug & play screens. I ended up with CLAA103WA01 and KL-103AI277004. Also picked up a 10.25" digitizer, all from ALiExpress. About $100 for LCD & digitizer. KL-103AI277004 Seemed like a higher quality screen, but I have not beed able to find any data sheets for it. It works all the same though. I plugged them it, everything seemed to work, but the the backlight driver on the android couldn't drive the backlights. It required more power, and would start flickering, and the driver getting awfully hot. Original screen needed like 270ma @ 13v, the larger screens run @ 210ma & 28~v. In theory, it should be possible to get the one above to work, but I was not able to find any datasheet on the driver chip, and in general, I like to keep things 100% reversible without too much work. Felt somewhat defeated for a couple of weeks. Then decided to make my own backlight driver. Ended up using Texas Instruments TPS61165TDBVRQ1. Plenty of documentation. Ordered 20, burned about 8, but ended up with a working driver. Hand soldering..whatever. Designed the PCB in EasyEDA. Ordered the PCBs from FLCPCB, which is conveniently built into EasyEDA. It was under $20 for 10 PCBs shipped. It's pretty much the example design in the TI driver datasheet. Only thing different is the resistors in R1-R1C. You control the current my adding/removing resistance. In this case, to get 210ma, I needed .95ohms total. I also missed the stock auto-dimming. On the Android, you just get a slider for brightness, and it dims a bit when your headlights are on. That's it. So I set out to make a light sensor, and dim the screen accordingly. Ended up using the ESP32 module. This can be done just as well with an Arduino board. I chose a wifi module because I wouldn't have to pull it out to update the software. I initially wanted to use the older ESP8266, but as it turns out, it can only generate PWM signal (for dimming) up to 1mhz. The LED driver chip requires 5mhz or better. So I can update the software without getting behind the screen, but I also don't want to update it every time I want to change a setting, so I put a web interface on it. The graph just shows you what the light value from the sensor is, and what the backlight is being set to. Gimmicky thing, but I wanted to watch it as I drive around and dial in my settings to be. Min/Max brightness are self explanatory. Response range - basically once it reads over 30, start cranking the brightness up over the minimum brightness value. By the time the sensor is to 150, the LCD will be at max brightness, so matter what.Transition time will slowly dim the brightness. Peak light val shows the highest light ever encountered. I also need a light sensor. a TEMT6000 that I made a PCB for and a light tube, 12.7mm VLP1-F-1. So it all works on the bench at this point from a bench power supply. Time to get it hooked up... My board needs 12v, 5v, Ground, and the light sensor gets its 3.3v from the ESP32/Arduino board. Found the on the Android board and soldered them out to a connector.Easy enough. Now I needed to make a custom enclosure fro the CPU, and then the LCD bezel, that has to be a separate unit, because no way it'd wit as one unit. The original housing: My custom housing I designed & 3d printed. Same thing, but instead of screen opening, it's just a couple of openings for the connector. Snaps to the MMI unit all the same. Then the bezel: The bezel has a slot for my light sensor to slide in, and the stock Android Mic. I took the metal bezel off the new lcd screen, as well as the double-sized tape off the digitizer. This allows it to sit right up on the LCD, and hopefully reduce reflections. I just used black cloth electrical tape to hold the two together. Also made a backing plate to hold the lcd in place, and a place to snap the controller to. This is my draft bezel. I broke the back a bit. Doesn't really matter. I'm printing another one that I'm going to fill & paint so it doesn't look like a 3d print. The MMI housing. I obviously didn't plan a place for every single wire, nor did I care to, as I wasn't exactly sure how it would all align in the car+ length. Had to get extensions for the display, 60 pin FPC, and the digitizer, 6pin FPC. Still need to design/make a vent cover. Tight fit for sure, but it fits. To remove, just hook the top lip & pull on it. All the "drafts" Random thoughts. * Need a large format 3d printer. I used an Ender 5 plus. * Better to print with PETG. Little more flexible and less likely to crack when inserting than PLA. * PETG is more heat tolerant. PLA is almost guaranteed to deform/soften up on a hot day in the sun. * ABS would be even better. * It sits a little low. I'm working on another bezel that raises the screen 5mm, but that leaves very little material in the thinnest part at the top. Not sure how it'll hold up being inserted/removed. Also, the dash will have to be notched behind the screen for the LCD corners to sit in. Not a huge deal. Will never see it, stock or otherwise. * Software could use more work, but very functional as it is Thank you for coming to my Ted talk. All files/designs are over @ https://github.com/RomanGz/android_10.25_retrofit |
05-11-2021, 02:52 AM | #3965 | |
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Anyway one suggestion: once you're happy with your bezel, it might be a good idea to cast it. That would straighten up the structure and make it smooth. Other than that very well thought out and designed. |
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05-11-2021, 03:23 AM | #3966 | |
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Great to also see some other guy that is as crazy as me doing its own housing I did it also some time ago, i had also alot of "testpart" around Regarding the material i recommend you to stay with PETG, ABS does warp way too much at this part sizes. Kri |
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05-11-2021, 03:16 PM | #3967 |
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I hear that, and it has crossed my mind. I’m just one of those people that is never truly “done”. In my mind I’m always thinking “what if I try...” and end up tinkering forever. I was just going to go the sand/fill/paint route.
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05-12-2021, 03:04 AM | #3968 |
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Oh been there myself many times... I actually kinda abandoned one of my project after 4 months of filling, sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding and painting.
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05-26-2021, 04:03 PM | #3969 | |
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05-27-2021, 10:07 AM | #3971 |
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Just a piece of information: On my HU unit (BMW F20) I regularly had black screens at startup (1 time out of 6) the screen froze then became black forcing the unit to reboot with Android 9.0 latest OS, I was even going to disconnect it. original GPS cable but without improvement.
Since my switch to Android 10 latest OS = I no longer have this problem. |
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05-28-2021, 07:20 AM | #3973 | |
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2.8.6 is the latest Android 10. What's also important is the letter that is before that P stands for Android 9 and Q is Android 10. |
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05-30-2021, 02:33 AM | #3974 |
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Hello I would like to install this app, I have no laptop, how can I make exactly the activation with the phone? Which app do I have to use for it? Do I have to unlock something at the HU? Did you have an exact guidance for me like me making step by step? I would be very grateful for your help.
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05-30-2021, 09:04 AM | #3975 | |
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05-31-2021, 05:51 AM | #3976 |
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06-01-2021, 08:54 AM | #3977 |
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06-01-2021, 09:28 AM | #3978 | |
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06-06-2021, 08:22 AM | #3979 | |
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The Tasker reports "No active profiles" (7 of 7 enabled) MCU Ver:023055dGS-CIC-GTL-DC-210421 APP Ver:Ksw-Q-Userdebug_OS_v2. 8.4 System Ver:10-8953EA-1 Storage:34.93GB/64GB RAM:4GB Last edited by h@ckaaa!; 06-06-2021 at 09:04 AM.. |
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06-06-2021, 02:38 PM | #3980 | |
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06-06-2021, 02:46 PM | #3981 |
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Hi, RedErik I even bought your Drive Keaboard (congratulations for your hard work in this environment) but I can't use it fully without my idrive Controller. Now I'm reading another topic on this subject, it would be nice to have more development from Kri...
The topic I read is this: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fwo...T8hfE2NTM/view https://community.particle.io/t/phot...r-canbus/47643 Last edited by h@ckaaa!; 06-06-2021 at 03:03 PM.. |
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06-06-2021, 04:06 PM | #3982 |
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Oh hang on, do you have PX6 unit? If so my keyboard won't work on it as it doesn't provide full controller support in the same way as Snapdragon 625 unit does.
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