04-03-2012, 08:59 PM | #23 | |
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04-03-2012, 09:13 PM | #24 |
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Drive it like you stole it.
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04-03-2012, 10:02 PM | #25 |
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Drives: F87 M2 BSM MT
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LOL...I just may have to use that eco button and some short shifting. At least I can go as fast as 100mph
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04-03-2012, 10:46 PM | #26 |
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[QUOTE=ric124;11680621]This is from the 335 manual
[IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/visstab/df79d80f.jpg[/ Do you think is the same for the 328, the engine is different so maybe the break in is different too. |
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04-03-2012, 10:58 PM | #27 |
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[QUOTE=Miamidrivesbimmers;11682695]328i_335i_Sedan_Owners_Manual.pdf
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04-04-2012, 09:39 AM | #31 |
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If its old folklore, it would not be in the manual. What is old folklore is having to change the oil after the break in period. In the old says, engine manufacturing technique were not as precise as today. The break in period produce some metal shavings. Today's engine is made to much tighter tolerance and produce much less metal shavings, therefore, no need to change the oil after the break in period.
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04-04-2012, 09:44 AM | #32 | |
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04-04-2012, 09:45 AM | #33 | |
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04-04-2012, 09:51 AM | #34 |
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From 1000kms (600 miles)on I pushed it like an idiot (when warmed up off course.)
Just like I did with the other new BMW's I previously owned. Hoppa! 7000rpm thru gears and 250kmh when possible. (Traffic) Never had any problems. And cooling down(turbo) after some hard driving off course. I do not want a 'lazy' engine and breaking in the hard(er) way prevents that imo. I now have 2500kms(>1500miles) on it so far. |
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04-04-2012, 10:03 AM | #35 |
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Labs such as Blackstone is in the business of making money, they purposely set that max. allowable unit low to create repeated business. If all you test come back good, those labs will be out of business. Just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for oil change, if you have extra money to throw away, spend it on new rims instead
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04-04-2012, 10:17 AM | #36 | |
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You stated that modern engines are built to higher tolerances and don't have break in issues like older engines, but I've seen higher heavy metal numbers on newer, and especially turbo charged engines, than I did on older cars. I'm simply stating that if some BMW's recommend a low mileage oil change, and if real, measurable contaminants show up at those intervals, it's an easy decision for some of us to continue to do it on our cars. Do what you want with yours. |
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04-04-2012, 11:54 AM | #37 | ||
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I'd be curious to know whether BMW were among the modern engines that had more contaminants than older cars. I'd also be curious to know whether these contaminants are picked up in the oil pre-filtration or post-filtration, as it may be that part of the reason for the change in oil change advice is improved filters - I don't know. It is indeed peace of mind. While I would say that changing the oil EVERY 2,000 miles is a bit pointless and OCD, I wouldn't say that anyone changing the oil after the first few thousand miles is doing anything wrong - and I don't think that anyone else is saying that either. My point is that I think these threads cause people who otherwise wouldn't have thought about it unnecessary worry, and it shouldn't. How long do you plan on keeping your BMW out of interest? I do intend eventually on keeping a BMW from new until it falls to bits perhaps 20 years later and as I implied above I will then change the oil after 2,000 miles. I know that I'll only keep my F30 for a couple of years though so I can't be bothered. |
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04-04-2012, 12:17 PM | #38 | |
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I agree, skipping any extra oil changes probably has little or no real world benefit for those not planning on keeping their cars for a long duration. Just as not waxing it for three years really doesn't effect it greatly, but I won't skip that either. |
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04-04-2012, 12:39 PM | #39 | |
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What made you get rid of your M Coupe if you don't mind me asking? Were you just bored with it, or was it getting a bit soft, or was it suffering from too many problems? I'm really curious to know how long cars usually last when well looked after as I'm convinced most people get rid of them when they still have plenty of life left; even the cars value drops so low that repairs cost more than its value, those repairs can still cost less than the depreciation of replacing the car. |
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04-04-2012, 12:52 PM | #40 | |
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It had a few rattles, but I'd kept up with it, tracked it plenty, been good about changing fluids, filters and such the whole time, etc. It was a bullet proof little thing, tons of fun to drive and relatively cheap to maintain, with no surprises, ever. I don't enjoy the 1er nearly as much, the flat torque curve just is dull in comparison, and it's really faster than a daily driver really needs to be plus the lack of an LSD and the stock suspension make for sloppy handling. Plus it's had a good number of warranty repairs that make me a little hesitant to keep it past the warranty. We may sell it and get an F30 or F31 for my wife and I may either stay sans car, or get something like the BRZ, or try to track down a Boxster Spyder. I really haven't decided. |
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04-04-2012, 04:51 PM | #41 | |
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04-05-2012, 03:12 AM | #42 | |
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04-05-2012, 10:04 AM | #43 | |
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04-10-2012, 12:19 AM | #44 |
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modern engines don't really need break in. the most important part of this is the piston rings.
the quickest breakin method is to put the car on the Dyno to run the car all out in one gear. then let the engine speed slow down on its own. or find an open road and do the following. usually in 3rd gear, from whatever lowest RPM accelerate to the highest RPM without up-shift and then let the car slow down by itself. this way it will create a lot of vacuum inside the engine. do it 6 times or more then you are good to go. I would change the oil after 500 miles.
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