09-04-2019, 04:08 PM | #23 | |
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09-04-2019, 04:14 PM | #24 |
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This is the one I'm curious about
Never seen anyone feel it necessary to brace that area b4... Our F32 already have the triangulated rear bar, I don't think there version would make any difference other than it's more rigid. I do have the M4 aluminum plate under the front plate of my factory cross brace with longer screws. Sure that's stiff enuf
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09-04-2019, 04:21 PM | #25 | |
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09-04-2019, 05:20 PM | #26 | ||
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09-04-2019, 05:53 PM | #27 | |
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09-04-2019, 08:13 PM | #28 |
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You'd have to weld on the mount for it onto the shock tower as it's not included on vehicles that don't come with that brace. There are official parts you can buy to do that.
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09-04-2019, 09:53 PM | #29 |
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Weld?? Yeah.. thats not happenin'... lol.
Thanks man, wellspring of wisdom as always.
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09-08-2019, 05:08 PM | #30 |
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updated and completed the rear series with the rear differential bushing inserts!
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09-09-2019, 12:27 AM | #31 |
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improvements are already quite noticeable. Body roll feels significantly less with force across the tail in cornering feeling more planted.
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09-09-2019, 07:44 AM | #32 |
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09-09-2019, 08:55 AM | #33 |
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KCdesign claims their strutbar to fix understeer. This will not help at all for understeer on the F-series and the F also already has braces running from the firewall to the towers. What might be helpful are the underside braces. The rears attach at the 5 in the picture and would help with torsion and bushings slop around fast corners but I would not bother on any of the chassis & body stiffening unless you are pushing this car on the track.
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09-09-2019, 12:31 PM | #34 | |
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09-09-2019, 06:13 PM | #35 | |
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Here are my impressions of the KC strut bars from my log when I got them in 2017. I found the front strut bar useful even in spirited daily driving.
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09-11-2019, 07:51 AM | #36 |
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What size pass-through socket do you need to remove the drop-link nut to the front strut? I know you need a T30 torx bit to hold the stud but want to make sure I have the right socket size before getting into the removal.
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09-11-2019, 08:49 AM | #37 |
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I used a 16mm ratcheting wrench, and a T27 torx socket if we are talking the same thing, and it worked really well! Check 17minutes in on the video and you can see it.
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09-11-2019, 12:18 PM | #38 |
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Which video? I don't see one for front strut removal. Did you need an 18mm pass-through socket to remove the strut top hat nut?
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09-11-2019, 12:26 PM | #39 |
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My apologies.. FRONT strut. I will be doing the front sway bar this Friday.
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09-14-2019, 01:59 PM | #40 |
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Front sway bar is done, and I am working on the video today and tomorrow. Easier than the rear but maybe because of it being similar, lessons learned were less.
The irony? Get the work done, car put back together and race out for some appointments.. 5min later, smoothly and with precise control avoid a SUV that swerves into my lane to avoid another car, all at 60mph. Super smooth, quick right avoid and lane correct back into my lane avoiding the dumpster fire. Control was precise, smooth and felt completely grounded with ZERO slop or body roll. If that moment wasnt the greatest testament to the improvements, I dont know what is.. I very likely would have still avoided the SUV pre-upgrades but not nearly as smoothly or precisely. Car felt 100% responsive through what was a very quick series of control inputs. Yall want (subjective) feedback of the improvements thus far? WORTH EVERY PENNY.
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10-19-2019, 11:51 AM | #41 |
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ok yall.. I still dont have the front control arm bushings done yet due to some logistics, but my coilovers are done! I started a new thread for the DIY. Also I will update here once the control arms are done, I hope very soon.
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12-18-2019, 01:25 AM | #42 | |
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12-18-2019, 11:04 AM | #43 | |
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12-20-2019, 12:38 AM | #44 |
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@FaRKle!
I found these monoballs for the xdrive with a quick google search. Know anything about them? https://www.splparts.com/products/fr...3x-xdrive.html https://www.splparts.com/products/ad...3x-xdrive.html |
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