[kgibby]

Originally Posted by will1209

So I just did this a couple of days ago and I wanted to share my experience. Personally, the hardest part of this job was dealing with the intake manifold hoses lol. As for the housing bolts, they were surprisingly fairly easy to remove. I removed them all from the top without having to remove the oil filter housing at all in about 10-15min. The trick to getting the bottom 3 bolts is to use a medium 3/8 extension and fit it onto the bolt first then connect your ratchet & loosen away. For the very bottom bolt of the two in between the trans cooler, I just attached a swivel onto the end of the extension to get the extra leverage I needed to break it loose. As Per OP it's great to have the replacement housing in hand to get an idea of where the bolts sit exactly. The two bolts in between the oil cooler also have indents from the heat exchanger that helped me navigate immensely. All in all the job wasn't toooooo crazy, just take your time and be extra mindful of the hoses and bolts, also highly recommend taking care of some of the hoses and flanges while you're already there. I ended up replacing the coolant flange of the engine block as it was beginning to leak as well as a handful of hoses. It's a good piece of mind. Lastly, If you do it all from up top theirs no need to remove the fuel line bracket, center brace, and obv trans cooler. I only removed the transmission splash shield for the sake of getting some light from below to help see the bolts.

Good to know, thanks for adding! I tried from above for awhile and played some games with extensions, a swivel, and a string... lost my mind. The intake manifold hoses are a PITA, took me much longer than I would have guessed. Letting them sit with penetrating fluid helped the most.

[kgibby]

Originally Posted by k1k1

Do you have to prime the oil system after changing the oil filter housing? If so is there a specific method?

Edit: see comment below for priming procedure

[dotmaster206]

Originally Posted by kgibby

Not that I am aware of, ISTA does not mention it either.

Not true! You definitely need to prime the oil system, using the procedure "start up of the oil circuit"!

The procedure is not clearly outlined in the ISTA instructions for OFH replacement, but it is mentioned. The procedure is basically to unplug all the injectors and coil packs, and then run the starter motor for ~15 seconds, then let the starter cool for ~20 seconds, then run the starter motor again for ~15 seconds, etc. until you have built enough oil pressure. If you do the procedure in ISTA, it will show a graph plotting engine RPM and oil pressure, and it will tell you when you've got sufficient pressure to consider the job done. If you don't have ISTA, you can just do this procedure yourself without seeing the oil pressure plot and assume it'll take maybe 5 or so "starts" and you should be good. It took me ~2 starts to see 'full' pressure, and 3 for ISTA to say it was happy.

This is particularly important for the OFH job because you'll also be filling your coolant, which requires the coolant bleed procedure which involves revving your engine to 3500RPM several times right from startup - you don't want to be doing that without oil pressure!

[kgibby]

Originally Posted by dotmaster206

Not true! You definitely need to prime the oil system, using the procedure "start up of the oil circuit"!

The procedure is not clearly outlined in the ISTA instructions for OFH replacement, but it is mentioned. The procedure is basically to unplug all the injectors and coil packs, and then run the starter motor for ~15 seconds, then let the starter cool for ~20 seconds, then run the starter motor again for ~15 seconds, etc. until you have built enough oil pressure. If you do the procedure in ISTA, it will show a graph plotting engine RPM and oil pressure, and it will tell you when you've got sufficient pressure to consider the job done. If you don't have ISTA, you can just do this procedure yourself without seeing the oil pressure plot and assume it'll take maybe 5 or so "starts" and you should be good. It took me ~2 starts to see 'full' pressure, and 3 for ISTA to say it was happy.

This is particularly important for the OFH job because you'll also be filling your coolant, which requires the coolant bleed procedure which involves revving your engine to 3500RPM several times right from startup - you don't want to be doing that without oil pressure!

Great to know, thanks for pointing that out; I have added it into the thread! It doesn't seem much more taxing on the oil system than say changing the oil filter, but I was always curious, must have misread the ISTA. It has been awhile and I don't remember the details. Luckily in my case I had some DME connectors that were not fully seated and ended up doing a good amount of priming on accident, figured it couldn't hurt at the time.

[Kabbas123]

Does anyone have the oil filter bypass and cage part number for a b58 2019 540i?. I can’t find it anywhere

[shownfu]

Please help identify this hose. I'm replacing the oil filter housing on my x3 m40i and just noticed this hose which appears to go no where. I don't recall taking it off. Not sure if that's a breather hose or if it broke from somewhere.

[lllRazorlll]

Are there any specific coolant hoses or other parts that are recommended to replace when doing this job? I would imagine OFH, HMM, aux water pump, coolant flange at the least