12-05-2021, 04:21 PM | #551 |
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No, they don't, at least not the small signal parameters, which is all we're concerned with. Driver parameters can shift at high power levels, but when I say high I mean 300w and up.
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12-05-2021, 04:34 PM | #552 |
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fair enough. So in your opinion the OEM speakers still out perform most of the aforementioned upgrades even with say, 85w per channel (260w for the subs)
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12-05-2021, 05:29 PM | #553 | |
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I didn’t turn off my center on my tune, but like the rear it’s massively attenuated. Like -7 or -9 and despite having added the tweeter (total waste even on stock amp, sounded better without) have it on from 160- 3000 only. It does help with passenger seating not sounding so FUBAR when TA’d. Ie I can sit there and NOT pull my hair put after 30 seconds.
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12-05-2021, 08:55 PM | #554 | |
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https://speakerwizard.co.uk/thiele-s...-are-they-for/ It barely scratches the subject of T/S parameters, but it's a start. Replacement speakers can go louder with lower THD than OEM with more power, it they have the xmax to handle it. If not, they can't. That's the science behind that particular question. |
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12-05-2021, 09:22 PM | #555 |
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As always, this is an interesting thread. Can someone post the TS parameters for the BMW HiFi front door component speakers and the under seat 8" subs? Ideally the ones in the G05 although they may not have changed from earlier generations. Sorry if this has already been posted, don't' remember seeing the actual numbers and I can't seem to find them anywhere else.
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12-05-2021, 10:03 PM | #556 | |
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12-06-2021, 07:59 AM | #557 | |
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Fs 51 Hz Qes 1.00 Qms 3.02 Qts 0.75 Vas 18.4L Re 2.4 Ohms Le 0.22 mH Sd 200 sq cm xMax 6 mm BMW Hi-Fi Midrange 2015 F30 Fs 117 Hz Qes 1.17 Qms 3.56 Qts 0.88 Vas 1.3 L Re 3.2 Ohms Le 0.23 mH Sd 50 sq cm xmax 2mm |
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12-06-2021, 08:20 AM | #558 | |
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G05: 65132622515 Central woofer HIFI-SYSTEM 65136813697 Hifi-System Tweeter 65136809629 mid-range loudspeaker hifi F15: 65139287757 Central woofer HIFI-SYSTEM 65139220750 Tweeter HIFI-SYSTEM 65139286367 Midrange speaker for hifi system F30: 65139210149 Central bass, left HIFI-SYSTEM 65139220750 Tweeter HIFI-SYSTEM 65139264944 Midrange speaker for hifi system Last edited by VertigoAtHome; 12-06-2021 at 09:13 AM.. |
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12-06-2021, 05:14 PM | #560 | |
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The Audiotech Fischer software beats it hands down. I'm very tempted to just buy the Helix DSP.3 and some more amps! Really disappointed. I'd been looking forwards to trying the AP F8.9 for months now. I'll still finish the install and see how it sounds but the software is just down right terrible for such an expensive product and such a big company
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12-08-2021, 01:34 AM | #561 | ||
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But regarding this post, you can't go by part number alone to determine if the same specs for speakers are used across different BMW models and/or generations. For example, the underseat woofers used in BMWs are not sold separately from the enclosure - they are sold as a unit. With a few exceptions, different model BMWs use different enclosures (with different part numbers). For example, the G05 X5 and the G07 X7 share the same underseat woofer part number for the different sound system levels (HiFi vs HK vs B&W) as both are SAVs, but not with F30/F80 sedans as the enclosure is a different shape design. The actual woofers could be the same, with the only way to verify being to look at the label on the actual woofer. This also applies to other speakers as well, such as the tweeters, since they have different mounting configurations in different vehicles - even though the actual tweeter itself may be the same. Having replaced the speakers in both my F80 and X7, I speak from first hand experience on this. Not to say BMW did not use the same speaker specs in different models/generations (or mounting configurations) as there are cost savings using that approach. But the only way to really verify is to find the actual speaker specs by model, which can be very challenging to find - if at all unfortunately.
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12-08-2021, 04:54 AM | #562 |
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Ok... so the standard S676A 'hifi' subs actually really kick once you run them with 260w per channel.
Finally got my APF8.9 amp installed and done my best at using the DOG**** software to set the system up (Jesus Christ the Audison software is so poor compared to the Audiotec Fischer!) and with the sub channels running bridged they are getting 260w if you believe the spec sheet (although this says for 4ohms so not sure whats going on if the OEM subs are in fact closer to 2ohm?) The APF8.9 definitely works the subs harder than the UP7 (which is rated at 160w to the subs) Although they now sound powerful and actually give a nice low rumble, they dont really sound refined or tight. Going to strip the enclosures and add some deadening and some speaker damping wadding just to see if I can get the OEM woofers to sound ok. Then I'll compare them against my Rainbow upgrade woofers.
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12-08-2021, 10:45 AM | #563 | |
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12-08-2021, 02:47 PM | #564 | |
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Been too busy with work to strip the cabin and doors.... but I managed to get the amps all wired and fitted nicely and my 10" JLW3V3 fitted.
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02-26-2022, 06:54 PM | #565 |
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Hi, I have read all the pages which I have learned many things that I was not aware of. I was hoping to find some answers to my question. On F30, I have an audison sr5 amplifier, for the moment configured as follows: 2 front ant channels with two mtx coaxials, 2 channels to the Harman kardon subs (I think they are 8 ohm) while on the rear front I left the 2 channels of the original source with 2 coaxial focal. For the moment I am not using the 5th channel of the amplifier as I wanted to mount a sub in the trunk. I don't want to take space away from the trunk and I thought of this solution: 2 channels at the front, 2 at the rear and connect the 2 subs under the seat in parallel to make them work at 4 ohms as I am not very happy with the current configuration. Also I want to replace the front fronts with 2-way speakers and certainly the rear ones as well. Do you think it is a right choice? Or some advice is welcome.
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04-04-2022, 03:03 AM | #566 | |
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Even before I read it, I felt like it was kind of necessary/better to separate mid and tweeter channels frequency-wise, so this post puts words on it and I'm planning to reproduce it for my own setup. I was wondering whether both high and low pass filters could be physically close one to the other. Bottom line being, is it fine to use the same mounting board for both flters, or should they rather be as far as possible on 2 different boards. |
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04-04-2022, 07:56 AM | #567 |
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I didn't use boards, as there's not a lot of room inside the door cards for them. I hard wired the components, attaching them with hot melt glue into nooks on the door where they fit without interfering with the door cards. While I had the cards off I covered the doors wherever possible with vinyl mastic: https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadeni...ef_=ast_sto_dp
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04-04-2022, 10:30 AM | #568 | |
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Worth considering going with a larger gauge on the series coil. You will reduce sensitivity with the added series resistance.
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04-05-2022, 12:45 AM | #569 | |
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If you ever run across a wrecked wagon you can do what I did on my e34, ie take the carpeting off the interior floor section and use it to cover the enclosure with true matching carpet.
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04-06-2022, 08:21 PM | #570 | |
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