05-20-2020, 12:27 AM | #89 | |
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Main studs are the bolts/studs that hold the crankshaft in, headstuds hold the cylinder head down. Two separate ends of the motor. Cut ring head gasket can be found on a few websites but vac Motorsports sells it. Sleeving isn't necessary for your power option but since you have to hone the block for new pistons to be installed, you remove the Factory plasma arc coating this coating is cheaper to have applied than installing sleeves from a factory perspective. The main reason why a plasma arc coating or sleeves are used is because the block is aluminium and you can't run piston rings in a aluminium bore it won't seal properly, it will also wear prematurely etc. In the aftermarket scene you will find it hard to find someone to do plasma arc coating and if you can it most likely will be more expensive than installing sleeves hence why I recommend sleeves. Another reason why I recommend sleeves it's due to the fact it strengthens the cylinders up meaning they won't wobble under high cylinder pressures causing the headgasket to fail i.e running high boost. Closed decking is abit overkill for your build requirements, usually if you run sleeves you don't need the deck closed up but running both is still better than not running both. As for turbos you did correct yourself but I think alot of people misinterpret the MHI turbo... It's a stage 1 turbo with a new exhaust housing and wastegate etc. Stage 2 turbos there aren't alot of them around currently and the ones that are... They're almost as expensive as a garret GTX turbo etc. Hence why I built my own stage 2 turbo. I have heard Mossleman is making a stage 2 turbo and so is Vargus Turbo tech but I don't know when that will happen. Mamba turbo sell a stage 1.5 ish turbo it runs a stage 1 compressor wheel but runs a stage 2 turbine wheel, it's heaps cheaper than all the other options on the market and if you wanted to you could upgrade the compressor wheel to match a stage 2 for $300 more, just buy the compressor wheel (the one I linked on the first page of this thread) and get a turbo shop to fit it and machine the compressor housing. For your power goals yes the hpfp will be fine. LPFP upgrade is going to be required for the larger turbo, and Cary Jordan is a great tuner he's doing my stage 3 tune and has been showing really good customer service skills and good results the tune isn't polished yet but I can see he's very competent with tuning the n20 especially built motors. Last edited by navardi; 05-20-2020 at 11:21 PM.. |
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05-20-2020, 01:26 PM | #90 | |
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06-14-2020, 07:45 PM | #92 |
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Small Update.
I now offer Custom Tuning Via the BM3 platform, specializing in the N20, but i also offer tunes for the B48 and N55, more motors to come in the future.
https://www.navardituned.com/ |
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06-14-2020, 08:44 PM | #93 | |
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06-14-2020, 10:10 PM | #94 | |
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Not much to be gained over BM3 stage 2 with a custom tune, assuming identical hardware. If BM3 could've made more power without sacrificing reliability they would've done it. Now, you could go and have a custom tune made that pushes way too much boost and make more power, but you'll also blow your engine.
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06-16-2020, 05:05 AM | #95 | |
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But beyond stage 1 or 2 a custom is the way to go, you also don't get E40, E50, E60 etc or Full E85 or race gas from off the shelf tunes. Hopefully this clarifies Custom vs OTS |
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06-16-2020, 06:52 AM | #96 |
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Hi navardi - could you share the intake tube and air filter lenght and diameter ? I own 320i N20 with sport catted downpipe, external oil cooler, tuning intercooler and stage 2 hybrid turbo. Car soon will be custom tuned up to 350-400 bhp range for a start, but I was wondering if cold air intake could help to boost some more extra hp ( and beefy sound btw. ) Best Regards
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06-16-2020, 09:39 PM | #97 | |
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basically i took the FTP Intlet pipe rotated it 90 degrees (so the pipe was facing upwards) 3D printed a bracket so i could still secure it to the turbo housing. then ran some custom 3 inch aluminium intercooler/intake piping and ran it under the bonnet latch of the Drivers side of the car (RHD car ) then stuck the K&N RR3003 pod filter to the end of it which you can see from the kidney grille (similar to how the M3 Intake kits have pod filters in the kidney grilles) i 3D printed a custom MAF sensor bracket for the intake and extended the MAF harness to reach. |
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06-18-2020, 03:50 AM | #98 |
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Thank you for detailled answer. Could you also take some close-up photos of the intake?
BTW. my car is LHD, I would love to make identicall intake as yours, any suggestions ? Also any thoughts about differences between Ram Intake filter and mushroom intake filter ? Which one would you recommend ? |
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06-18-2020, 07:21 PM | #99 | |
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06-26-2020, 01:23 AM | #100 | |
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06-27-2020, 04:15 AM | #101 |
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Hey navardi So... I'm digging around and found this little dealy on the mamba-tek site. Am I still going to have to mill out my exhaust housing for this thing to fit properly. and could you please provide a link to the thrust bearing you used? I'm just trying to get to about 350whp, I've done the supporting mods already. (internally and externally)
https://shop.mambatek.com/9-11-Extre...P-038-0263.htm
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06-28-2020, 01:32 AM | #102 | |
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you say internal mods, you have forged internals? As for the mamba turbo, grab this one as it already has the exhaust housing machined for the larger turbine wheel, the link you provided above would require you to machine the exhaust housing out yourself which ends up being way more expensive than just buying the turbo in the link below. https://shop.mambatek.com/9-11-Extre...?categoryId=-1 What i would also suggest is upgrading the Compressor wheel on this Mambatek Turbo to the one i linked in page 1 of this thread, reason being is the compressor wheel is smaller than the wheels used on the PS2 stage 2, Mossleman Stage 1 turbos (However the Turbine wheel whilst it has the same dimensions as the PS2 it has less blades which allows the turbo to flow more air, it will be slightly more laggy than the PS2 but around 200-300RPM at most, but it allows you to run peak boost all the way to 7K rpm. Less Back Pressure the better hence why i recommend the 9 Blade Turbine wheel over the 11 Blade Pure Turbos offer. The advantage this Mambatek turbo has is the price of the turbo with the machined turbine housing, its substantially cheaper than the PS2 Turbo and even after the cost of machining the compressor cover and installing a larger wheel its still cheaper than the PS2 turbo. You may need to get in contact with Mamba regarding the Bearings of this turbo i would assume Mambatek have upgraded them to the higher performance bearing kit. However should you need it the link to the Upgraded thrust bearing kit is below https://shop.mambatek.com/Turbo-Repa...?categoryId=-1 Any Further questions feel free to DM |
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06-28-2020, 07:00 AM | #103 |
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BMW N20 Intake Manifold Update & Port Injection Bracket Update.
BMW N20 Intake Manifold Update & Port Injection Bracket Update.
Howdy everyone I have been very busy designing a custom intake manifold for the N20 with integrated PI and DME Mounting, so far design phase is complete on the Manifold, testing is next we are working on making some prototypes and sorting out the manufacturing side of it. A custom Intercooler to Intake manifold chargepipe will be required, however we are working on a solution to that for an "OFF THE SHELF" approach, but expect a longer lead time on that. The PI Bracket has finished design phase and testing phase, we are now waiting on manufacturing and logistics before we look at selling it to the public, PI is very much required even on a stock car for those wanting to run mixes more than E50 and full E85 mixes at 22-23psi the high compression N20s (320i, 220i, 520i etc) can get away without PI on a stock motor and stock turbo as you run less boost. however turbo upgrades regardless require Supplementary fuelling for those high comp motors. Low comp motors regardless you need PI, i know some tuners offer Full E85 on stock Low Comp N20s (228i, 328i, 428i etc) but they either run less boost or try to force the HPFP to deliver higher pressures which run beyond the manufacturers specs, so the lifespan of these pumps are greatly shortened. If PI or the Intake Manifold is too expensive for some users, Fuel-Its CPi Kit does work and BMS has firmware to enable the N20 JB4 and supplementary fuelling. My N20 PI setups (PI Bracket or Manifold) will work with either JB4 PI Controller and N20 JB4 (you need to ask Terry for the firmware) or the AIC6 works too. N55 PI Brackets do fit, however Cylinders 5 and 6 of the bracket must be cut off and the fuel rail shortened for it to fit. Pricing TBD. See page 4 of this thread for Pics of the PI Bracket. Below are pics of the intake manifold. |
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06-29-2020, 07:41 AM | #105 | |
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If nothing happens to the B48 platform for Upgraded intercoolers then i might look into it |
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07-01-2020, 11:45 AM | #106 | |
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07-02-2020, 01:05 AM | #107 | |
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Thanks for picking up on that mistake! Didn't realise i had leftout some information, after i wrote that, i ended up updating my design, its extremely tight to fit baffles in there in the first place and the "right side cornering" is more of an issue than left which is why i emphasize more on having a baffle plate there, however to fix the leftside cornering (i have heard of low oil pressure issues from either high G left or Right cornering)i managed to install another tomei Universal baffle plate to the right side of the baffle and had to modify it abit to fit, i siliconed it in and used the plate to "baffle" those recessed holes as such to limit the amount of oil that flows in there under left cornering. I don't have a photo of the final design as its on the engine still, however i have a mock-up photo before i cut the plate. To install the baffle plate on the right side i cut about 10mm off the top so it sits just below the top of the sump, then i cut the baffle plate not quite in half as the sumps molded shape for the bolts is in the way, essentially making 1 baffle plate into 2 smaller plates then proceeded to use high temp oil resistant RTV to bond them in place. As for braking the factory sump is set up well enough to maintain oil near the pickup during braking, there is also no room to even add a baffle if you wanted to without a custom sump. Let me know if you have anymore questions and i'll update the previous post to reflect the new information. Thanks mate, below is a pick of the update design. |
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07-11-2020, 01:33 AM | #109 | |
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Factory refer to the TIS manual as I'm not sure i know its got a jointing torque and angle of rotation www.newtis.info is the link. If its the same ARP headstuds i have 95LB-FT in 3 equal stages however if you have a different set of ARP headstuds please refer to their appropriate instructions. |
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07-13-2020, 03:53 PM | #110 | |
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I use ARP Head studs for N55 follow your recommend. And you add timeserted on 4 conner or all point? Last edited by Tuiman; 07-13-2020 at 04:03 PM.. |
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1000whp, big turbo, built engine, crate engine, darton sleeve, forged, max power, n20, n26, rebuild |
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