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      02-13-2018, 04:29 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
Black are a bit stiffer than yellows in the powerflex line up, yellow material is more flexible; but since it only fills gaps in bushings that are otherwise rubber i'm not sure if the difference is huge, compared to full bushings where it should make a big difference
I used prothane inserts on my mitsu and they indeed make a big difference in the handling. The addition of a proper rear race sway bar and front and rear strut tower bar makes my mitsu handle like its on rails. It is my road race car also the Mitsu/Eagle Talon'

So I figure I will get sways ,the bushings,strut tower bars,Dinan springs,Dinan Shockware and hopefully I will be all set before adding a tune for more hp. I think the suspension should always be a cars first mod.
I thank you guys for the Bushing link. Please continue with your updates
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      02-18-2018, 01:26 AM   #46
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Way to go
I always believed chassis is the first thing to do, for now my car DME is untouched, if you except a short foray into JB4 territory that i didn't really like (great product tbh, just not the way i like to do things)
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      03-29-2018, 12:05 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
Way to go
I always believed chassis is the first thing to do, for now my car DME is untouched, if you except a short foray into JB4 territory that i didn't really like (great product tbh, just not the way i like to do things)
I was surprised when I read in one of your threads that you did not like the H&R sway bars. I just purchased the rear. Just received my ASC springs,then powerflex bushings next. So I guess I will get the yellow inserts. I am hoping that this combo will make a difference.
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      03-29-2018, 12:30 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
I got the powerflex black fitted, since my attempt to change order from yellow to black after Bee Pee's warning was too late.

Overall I'm quite please with them;
Setup is really quite easy since they are inserts into the existing bushings, so the procedure to fit them is simple, and it can be reverted if the result isn't as expected.

The rear end definitely feels tighter, though I haven't pushed the car yet;

Noise: no change
Vibration: on very grainy surface it can become annoying after a while, however i'm just back from 5 hours of driving on different types of roads and it's barely noticeable.

So indeed overall quite pleased with this, looking forward to having a bit of fun with the car now
When you ordered the rear bushings did you have to order 4 bushings for the 4 mount points at 70.00US x 4= 280.00?
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      03-29-2018, 12:43 PM   #49
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Not sure, price wise it should be about $30 per bushing not $70

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-ser...s+-3189/1.html
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      03-29-2018, 12:47 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedawg View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
Way to go
I always believed chassis is the first thing to do, for now my car DME is untouched, if you except a short foray into JB4 territory that i didn't really like (great product tbh, just not the way i like to do things)
I was surprised when I read in one of your threads that you did not like the H&R sway bars. I just purchased the rear. Just received my ASC springs,then powerflex bushings next. So I guess I will get the yellow inserts. I am hoping that this combo will make a difference.
Well i'm pondering putting back the front bar, but not the back one, i like a crisp front end but i want both back wheels on the ground for traction so in my view what's needed is a strong front bar and mild rear bar.
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      03-29-2018, 01:06 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
Not sure, price wise it should be about $30 per bushing not $70

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-ser...s+-3189/1.html
https://powerflexusa.com/f303-series...0151&edit=true

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      03-29-2018, 01:08 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
Well i'm pondering putting back the front bar, but not the back one, i like a crisp front end but i want both back wheels on the ground for traction so in my view what's needed is a strong front bar and mild rear bar.
Would just changing the sway bar bushings on the front sway bar help alot also?
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      03-29-2018, 01:28 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedawg View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
Not sure, price wise it should be about $30 per bushing not $70

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/road-ser...s+-3189/1.html
https://powerflexusa.com/f303-series...0151&edit=true

OK on the US site the part number ends with x2 (pfr5-1921x2) so i'm quite sure this is meant to be a pair, UK site calls it pfr5-1921 ; it makes sense to sell them as pairs...
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      03-29-2018, 01:31 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
OK on the US site the part number ends with x2 (pfr5-1921x2) so i'm quite sure this is meant to be a pair, UK site calls it pfr5-1921 ; it makes sense to sell them as pairs...
Ok thanks for pointing that out. I had emailed them like 5 minutes ago so they will perhaps respond as well. thanks
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      03-29-2018, 04:20 PM   #55
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I think it is better to wait until the bushings wear to upgrade them. Many upgrade effects are psychological. The bushings are just rubber or PU dampers. Sure they can be more or less elastic but Bee Pee's subframe braces would contribute more to stability of the rear subframe under high speed cornering and shocks. This was brought up by M-engineer Biermann in discussing the chassis upgrades for the M4. Most of its effect still will not be felt unless tracked hard.
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      03-30-2018, 12:57 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedawg View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
Way to go
I always believed chassis is the first thing to do, for now my car DME is untouched, if you except a short foray into JB4 territory that i didn't really like (great product tbh, just not the way i like to do things)
I was surprised when I read in one of your threads that you did not like the H&R sway bars. I just purchased the rear. Just received my ASC springs,then powerflex bushings next. So I guess I will get the yellow inserts. I am hoping that this combo will make a difference.
Well i'm pondering putting back the front bar, but not the back one, i like a crisp front end but i want both back wheels on the ground for traction so in my view what's needed is a strong front bar and mild rear bar.
Strong front, and weaker rear bar? Sounds like a recipe for increasing understeer. Is that the goal?
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      03-30-2018, 04:38 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glennQNYC View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedawg View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancelot View Post
Way to go
I always believed chassis is the first thing to do, for now my car DME is untouched, if you except a short foray into JB4 territory that i didn't really like (great product tbh, just not the way i like to do things)
I was surprised when I read in one of your threads that you did not like the H&R sway bars. I just purchased the rear. Just received my ASC springs,then powerflex bushings next. So I guess I will get the yellow inserts. I am hoping that this combo will make a difference.
Well i'm pondering putting back the front bar, but not the back one, i like a crisp front end but i want both back wheels on the ground for traction so in my view what's needed is a strong front bar and mild rear bar.
Strong front, and weaker rear bar? Sounds like a recipe for increasing understeer. Is that the goal?
That's what theory tells, my experience is different ; in my view, stronger front bar equates more front end grip since during cornering the load is more even on both front wheels.

With rear being more tolerant i also get better rear end grip; and with the LSD i get oversteer on throttle, so i think it should work out.

At least that's how i remember from when i got the front end bar fitted alone, before doing the rear end which led to car balance being thrown away anytime the surface was uneven which is basically almost all the time on the road.
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      07-28-2020, 06:08 AM   #58
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DVC,

Looks like it's been a few years now - how are these holding up for you? I am planning install in the next couple weeks at the same time as a Wavetrac in my RWD 6MT N55.

Thanks!
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      07-29-2020, 11:09 AM   #59
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Quote:
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DVC,

Looks like it's been a few years now - how are these holding up for you? I am planning install in the next couple weeks at the same time as a Wavetrac in my RWD 6MT N55.

Thanks!
They have been rock solid - no issues.
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      04-09-2021, 10:01 AM   #60
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Did you have an issue with the notches on the delrin being equally spaced and the tabs in the sub-frame not being equally spaced?
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      05-04-2021, 03:41 AM   #61
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Anyone have any thoughts between solid aluminum bushings vs the Delrin/Aluminum combinations from Bimmerworld or Turner Motorsports?

The Bimmerworld Aluminum/Delrin bushings are out of stock right now with no expected inventory for another 4-6 weeks.
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      05-04-2021, 11:40 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Anyone have any thoughts between solid aluminum bushings vs the Delrin/Aluminum combinations from Bimmerworld or Turner Motorsports?

The Bimmerworld Aluminum/Delrin bushings are out of stock right now with no expected inventory for another 4-6 weeks.
What about AKG? They make a 75D polyurethane subframe bushing...75D is rediculously stiff.
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      05-04-2021, 01:55 PM   #63
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I say go akg, very good products, used them exclusively in the past on other chassis and have some products from them for this chassis, never had a bad experience and 75D is amazing stuff, from what I hear, they should pop in pretty easily to
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      05-04-2021, 08:02 PM   #64
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go whiteline or supepro poly

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BED6TAW...v_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP38TNY...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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