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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > F30 DIYs and Coding Discussions > DIY - Blackvue Dashcam Hardwire - ALL with the fusebox, no sketchy wiring
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      03-03-2016, 07:05 PM   #23
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Reviving an old thread. smithf32 it looks like you hid/covered your front camera's wiring behind the rear view mirror housing; looks really clean.

Do you have any issues with the cover being "lifted" because of the wires? Thinking if it's worth drilling a small hole on the side to run the wires into..
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      03-03-2016, 10:53 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Monkeyboxers View Post
Reviving an old thread. smithf32 it looks like you hid/covered your front camera's wiring behind the rear view mirror housing; looks really clean.

Do you have any issues with the cover being "lifted" because of the wires? Thinking if it's worth drilling a small hole on the side to run the wires into..
I wouldn't drill, it really isn't noticeable, doesn't rattle.
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      04-21-2016, 09:34 PM   #25
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Thank you for the great DIY.
Were you able to run both wires for the Dash Cam down one side of the car or did you run one down either side? Just wondering how easy it is to get the wires hidden behind the trim.
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      04-21-2016, 10:28 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prodigy.
Thank you for the great DIY.
Were you able to run both wires for the Dash Cam down one side of the car or did you run one down either side? Just wondering how easy it is to get the wires hidden behind the trim.
I ran them both on one side. Pretty easy.

You're welcome!
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      05-02-2016, 02:04 PM   #27
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Thanks for the write up... looking up future solutions for when I'm ready to install.
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      05-12-2016, 06:37 PM   #28
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Thanks for the guide, fuse numbers are a time saver for sure! Just waiting on my add-a-circuits to be delivered then I'm good to go, got everything routed in the trim etc.
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      08-12-2016, 08:57 AM   #29
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For those wondering, which add a circuits you need, you need 1 normal and 1 mini sized. I got 2 minis so I'll be exchanging 1 of them..
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      08-15-2016, 10:08 AM   #30
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How long are the cables needed? I'm looking to do this for the power part only, have a G1W-C I'm moving between my cars.
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      08-24-2016, 10:31 AM   #31
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How long are the cables needed? I'm looking to do this for the power part only, have a G1W-C I'm moving between my cars.
I'd say about 10 feet should be sufficient.
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      08-24-2016, 10:34 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithf32
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToniCipriani View Post
How long are the cables needed? I'm looking to do this for the power part only, have a G1W-C I'm moving between my cars.
I'd say about 10 feet should be sufficient.
Awesome, thank you, sir.
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      08-24-2016, 10:35 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by ToniCipriani View Post
Awesome, thank you, sir.
No problem! Sorry for the delay.

The way I figure it, our cars are about 15 feet long so if you take the engine and trunk out of the equation 10 feet should be about right, maybe a little more if you wanted to play it safe but I think 10 is fine.
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      08-28-2016, 05:01 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithf32 View Post
No problem! Sorry for the delay.

The way I figure it, our cars are about 15 feet long so if you take the engine and trunk out of the equation 10 feet should be about right, maybe a little more if you wanted to play it safe but I think 10 is fine.
Cool, the original charger is actually 10 feet, so I might be OK.

And I assume your car has Through-Load, so you just run the cable folding down the seats? Mine doesn't so I'm trying to figure out that final piece of the puzzle, all the guides posted seem to be for Through-Load equipped cars.
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      08-28-2016, 05:02 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToniCipriani
Quote:
Originally Posted by smithf32 View Post
No problem! Sorry for the delay.

The way I figure it, our cars are about 15 feet long so if you take the engine and trunk out of the equation 10 feet should be about right, maybe a little more if you wanted to play it safe but I think 10 is fine.
Cool, the original charger is actually 10 feet, so I might be OK.

And I assume your car has Through-Load, so you just run the cable folding down the seats? Mine doesn't so I'm trying to figure out that final piece of the puzzle, all the guides posted seem to be for Through-Load equipped cars.
If unbolting the seat back is as easy as it is in the E90 you won't have issues.

Should just pull the seat bottom up and then there should be some big ass torx screws to undo then it just pops out
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      12-10-2016, 02:33 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithf32 View Post
If unbolting the seat back is as easy as it is in the E90 you won't have issues.

Should just pull the seat bottom up and then there should be some big ass torx screws to undo then it just pops out

Do you need to use the cigarette lighter adapter on the Multi Safer? The wiring diagram isn't clear if that can be bypassed when using the fuse box for power.

https://www.blackboxmycar.com/pages/...ower-magic-pro
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      12-11-2016, 12:02 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stangorang View Post
Do you need to use the cigarette lighter adapter on the Multi Safer? The wiring diagram isn't clear if that can be bypassed when using the fuse box for power.

https://www.blackboxmycar.com/pages/...ower-magic-pro
I think the cigarette adapter socket is actually for plugging the adapter that came with your dash cam into.

Dash cam -> Cig power adapter -> Socket splice -> Multi Safer -> Car
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      01-29-2017, 06:11 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithf80 View Post
If unbolting the seat back is as easy as it is in the E90 you won't have issues.

Should just pull the seat bottom up and then there should be some big ass torx screws to undo then it just pops out
Finally got around to install mine. As it turns out, didn't really need to take the seat back out (read: Torx screw was on too tight my screwdriver couldn't get it out), gap was big enough I can just tuck the cable under and route around the seatbelt and Isofix latch. Reached my hand in the gap from the trunk and cable's right there.

Also I didn't have a Combox, so the ground pole didn't have a nut. 37 cents worth of an M6 nut and 6mm washer at Home Depot did the trick, and I'm all set.

Thanks again for the detailed instructions, it was great help, made it a 30 minute job (plus time me running back and forth getting tools and soldering )
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      02-07-2017, 12:38 PM   #39
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Any issues with battery discharge message so far? Looking to do this in my 330e but not sure which fuses to go for, in this thread #143 and #161 are mentioned, on another thread #159 and #160.
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      02-07-2017, 12:56 PM   #40
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Any issues with battery discharge message so far? Looking to do this in my 330e but not sure which fuses to go for, in this thread #143 and #161 are mentioned, on another thread #159 and #160.
I took this out about a month ago in anticipation of my new car and I can tell you that there was not one battery discharge error at all during the time I had it installed.
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      02-07-2017, 01:06 PM   #41
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Awesome. Good to hear.
I've been reading up on the installation and according to Blackvue support you don't need to install 2 fuses into the fuse tap, just the factory ones (i.e. 5a and 20a) but I find conflicting info here: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...1122846&page=4 where it does not work without them and you also have them installed I see!
You have an extra 5a in the small fuse tap and the same in the larger one. The camera is 2a, is that an issue?
Also does the order matter in which slot in the fuse tap they go? And what voltage did you go for 11.8? 11.6? I'd like to record up to 12 hours in park mode.
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      02-09-2017, 10:44 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd_dracula View Post
Awesome. Good to hear.
I've been reading up on the installation and according to Blackvue support you don't need to install 2 fuses into the fuse tap, just the factory ones (i.e. 5a and 20a) but I find conflicting info here: http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...1122846&page=4 where it does not work without them and you also have them installed I see!
You have an extra 5a in the small fuse tap and the same in the larger one. The camera is 2a, is that an issue?
Also does the order matter in which slot in the fuse tap they go? And what voltage did you go for 11.8? 11.6? I'd like to record up to 12 hours in park mode.
The Blackvue itself doesn't need more than two, but the MultiSafer (which is what controls when it turns off) does.
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      02-12-2017, 12:41 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithf80 View Post
The Blackvue itself doesn't need more than two, but the MultiSafer (which is what controls when it turns off) does.
I see here that you added a 10amp fuse to the accessory wire beside the original 5amp fuse in slot #143.


Thought you added 5a with 5a for both ACC and BATT wires? Any reason for not going with 5a?
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      02-12-2017, 01:03 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sd_dracula View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by smithf80 View Post
The Blackvue itself doesn't need more than two, but the MultiSafer (which is what controls when it turns off) does.
I see here that you added a 10amp fuse to the accessory wire beside the original 5amp fuse in slot #143.


Thought you added 5a with 5a for both ACC and BATT wires? Any reason for not going with 5a?
I might not have had one lol. Don't honestly remember. I think I might have changed it out but it doesn't really matter.
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