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      09-06-2018, 12:50 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboAra View Post
Remove the bottom nut first and get the bracket off the stud, once itís off you should be able to get 2 fingers around the top nut being able to hand tighten or loosen the nut off the threads. The slave will have a spring loaded effect but itís not going anywhere. Now is a good time to clean the old dried grease off the end of the slave and the fork side. Use some thick grease on the end of the rod and fork
had to revive this to say thanks Turbo! I've been looking for a solution to this problem, I'll most likely buy a new slave and experiment with that one. did any one else on here successfully do this? I'm also thinking about pulling the trigger on the ultimate clutch from BAV because I'm long legged and feel the clutch is way too close on the F chassis. the ultimate drops it back a bit. I think that clutch placement, throw, feel and performance is the most important part of a vehicles performance with an Manual transmission.
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      11-03-2018, 05:43 PM   #68
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Thanks TurboAra Great wright up
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      01-23-2019, 12:35 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remonster View Post
Just did this today and decided to be brave and try to skip the drilling and just eliminate the metal piece and the black plastic piece that holds it in place entirely. The line looked like it would seal properly against the slave when inserted without those two pieces so I just tossed them aside and connected the line back into the slave.

When bleeding the fluid, pressure bleed + vacuum bleed works well, you need the second phase of sucking air out the top or you'll have a soft pedal after the normal bleeding procedure and it is holding just fine with zero leaks.
Just wondering how is your car holding up after deleting the cdv in this fashion? Any issues?

I would really like to do this and not have to drill anything! I am hoping this cdv delete might help prevent clutch slipping.

Also, has anyone successfully removed these parts in the slave without removing the slave from the car?
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      01-23-2019, 12:38 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delvec03 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboAra View Post
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Originally Posted by delvec03 View Post
hopped in today and the clutch needed to be pumped up again. I'll see how it is through the week. not a god sign today.

thanks fir the tip.
If Pedel is low that means you still have air in the system. Use the syringe method to push new fluid from bottom to the top.
I was able to get all the air out via gravity bleed. surprisingly simple vs reverse bleed method. I'd recommend to try this before the syringe method. didn't even have to take the slave off the trans to do it!

super happy with the results. now I need to learn how to drive stick again...ha
So is just a simple gravity bleed adequate after deleting the cdv? This thread seems to have a lot of contradictory info regarding how to bleed the clutch! Does anyone know if there is a proper clutch bleeding diy out there?
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      01-23-2019, 12:38 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akgambino View Post
Just wondering how is your car holding up after deleting the cdv in this fashion? Any issues?

I would really like to do this and not have to drill anything! I am hoping this cdv delete might help prevent clutch slipping.

Also, has anyone successfully removed these parts in the slave without removing the slave from the car?
I tried that method and the line did NOT seal...I had to drill the plate and reinstall the stuff as assembled for the hydraulic line to seal.
Without the spacers and stuff the line was dripping, and leaked a lot more when clutch was depressed.
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      01-23-2019, 12:44 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by akgambino View Post
So is just a simple gravity bleed adequate after deleting the cdv? This thread seems to have a lot of contradictory info regarding how to bleed the clutch! Does anyone know if there is a proper clutch bleeding diy out there?
That absolutely did not work for me either.
I even tried vacuum bleeding with a hand held vacuum pump.
I needed the syringe to purge the bubbles upwards.
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      01-23-2019, 12:45 PM   #73
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akgambino View Post
So is just a simple gravity bleed adequate after deleting the cdv? This thread seems to have a lot of contradictory info regarding how to bleed the clutch! Does anyone know if there is a proper clutch bleeding diy out there?
That absolutely did not work for me either.
I even tried vacuum bleeding with a hand held vacuum pump.
I needed the syringe to purge the bubbles upwards.
Awesome thanks for the replies!

So basically follow this post step by step and will be good to go:

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=23109685
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      01-23-2019, 12:46 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tchao View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by akgambino View Post
So is just a simple gravity bleed adequate after deleting the cdv? This thread seems to have a lot of contradictory info regarding how to bleed the clutch! Does anyone know if there is a proper clutch bleeding diy out there?
That absolutely did not work for me either.
I even tried vacuum bleeding with a hand held vacuum pump.
I needed the syringe to purge the bubbles upwards.
Awesome thanks for the replies!

So basically follow this post step by step and will be good to go:

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=23109685
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      01-25-2019, 09:45 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akgambino View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by delvec03 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboAra View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by delvec03 View Post
hopped in today and the clutch needed to be pumped up again. I'll see how it is through the week. not a god sign today.

thanks fir the tip.
If Pedel is low that means you still have air in the system. Use the syringe method to push new fluid from bottom to the top.
I was able to get all the air out via gravity bleed. surprisingly simple vs reverse bleed method. I'd recommend to try this before the syringe method. didn't even have to take the slave off the trans to do it!

super happy with the results. now I need to learn how to drive stick again...ha
So is just a simple gravity bleed adequate after deleting the cdv? This thread seems to have a lot of contradictory info regarding how to bleed the clutch! Does anyone know if there is a proper clutch bleeding diy out there?
it's really a two part process...you need to first prime the cylinder via pumping the Piston as described in previous posts. that gets all that air out of the area behind the cylinder.

then you need to bleed the line and get the air out of the high spots. I was able to do this with gravity bleed. magic or whatever, I did it. I know it's given others a hell of a time. in the end, just get all of the air out.
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      04-08-2019, 11:14 AM   #76
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I thought Iíd follow up on this. After modifying the restrictor I decided that there was still too much material restricting flow in the line. So I went back in and removed the restrictor and rubber bushing. I got even better clutch feel and unlike someone else posted, there is no leakage from the connection of the hard line to the slave.
Lots of you have complained about bleeding the line afterwards. I think youíre not giving the pedal enough time. Iíve done this twice now. I reverse bled the first time and pressure bled from above the second and each time I got significant air coming out. I continued bleeding until there were absolutely no bubbles. Each time the pedal was soft but repeated pumping improved it and driving finished it off.
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      04-08-2019, 01:05 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
I thought I’d follow up on this. After modifying the restrictor I decided that there was still too much material restricting flow in the line. So I went back in and removed the restrictor and rubber bushing. I got even better clutch feel and unlike someone else posted, there is no leakage from the connection of the hard line to the slave.
Lots of you have complained about bleeding the line afterwards. I think you’re not giving the pedal enough time. I’ve done this twice now. I reverse bled the first time and pressure bled from above the second and each time I got significant air coming out. I continued bleeding until there were absolutely no bubbles. Each time the pedal was soft but repeated pumping improved it and driving finished it off.
You found an improvement by removing the rubber? I only removed the metal.
Maybe I should go back under the car....
Thx
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      04-08-2019, 01:55 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David0ff View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
I thought I'd follow up on this. After modifying the restrictor I decided that there was still too much material restricting flow in the line. So I went back in and removed the restrictor and rubber bushing. I got even better clutch feel and unlike someone else posted, there is no leakage from the connection of the hard line to the slave.
Lots of you have complained about bleeding the line afterwards. I think you're not giving the pedal enough time. I've done this twice now. I reverse bled the first time and pressure bled from above the second and each time I got significant air coming out. I continued bleeding until there were absolutely no bubbles. Each time the pedal was soft but repeated pumping improved it and driving finished it off.
You found an improvement by removing the rubber? I only removed the metal.
Maybe I should go back under the car....
Thx
Removing the metal restrictor and leaving the rubber bushing doesn't do you any good. The bushing will just float around as it's no longer held in place between the restrictor and male connector end. Plus, it takes up space in the fluid line. If you're going through the trouble to do this, I think you should just remove everything that slows the fluid down.
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      04-08-2019, 02:29 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
Removing the metal restrictor and leaving the rubber bushing doesn't do you any good. The bushing will just float around as it's no longer held in place between the restrictor and male connector end. Plus, it takes up space in the fluid line. If you're going through the trouble to do this, I think you should just remove everything that slows the fluid down.
Thx! I'm gonna open it up again and see wtf I did as I cant recall if I still have the rubber or not.
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      04-10-2019, 08:23 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
Removing the metal restrictor and leaving the rubber bushing doesn't do you any good. The bushing will just float around as it's no longer held in place between the restrictor and male connector end. Plus, it takes up space in the fluid line. If you're going through the trouble to do this, I think you should just remove everything that slows the fluid down.
Thats what I thought too, so I originally removed everything.

But my slave was leaking like a mofo when I reinstalled the line.
I had to dig my plastic/rubber spacers out of the trash and reinstalled those to keep it from leaking. My only guess is that the line rest against the rubber piece forming a seal when inserted.

This is just my experience. Im still curious as to why others dont leak? I would want more clutch control if possible.
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      04-10-2019, 12:25 PM   #81
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You probably had the nipple pop off the connector to the hard line.

It seals fine without either piece for the CDV, as long as the rubber nipple is FULLY on the hard line connector. It goes partially on with a slight click and then fully on with a loud hard click.
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      04-11-2019, 12:56 AM   #82
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This is something I would be interested in, but definitely not knowledgable enough to do it myself. Any shops in the LA area that anyone recommends to tackle this?
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      04-11-2019, 09:42 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
You probably had the nipple pop off the connector to the hard line.

It seals fine without either piece for the CDV, as long as the rubber nipple is FULLY on the hard line connector. It goes partially on with a slight click and then fully on with a loud hard click.
^^^this
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      04-12-2019, 11:05 AM   #84
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Why doesn't a company just sell a clutch slave cylinder with the CDV removed, so we can just swap ours out? Instead of all this MacGyvering.

Any reps from one of the mod companies want to chime in?
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      04-12-2019, 10:34 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkiledj View Post
Why doesn't a company just sell a clutch slave cylinder with the CDV removed, so we can just swap ours out? Instead of all this MacGyvering.

Any reps from one of the mod companies want to chime in?
Exactly! Or even a forum member who has done a few of these could buy a bunch of clutch slaves, do the mod, and sell on here for a profit. And when they ship it out have some proper step by step instructions to do the install from start to finish along with proper clutch bleed method... because this entire thread has multiple ways to do the mod, and even more ways to do the bleed and not very many pictures.
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      04-21-2019, 01:23 PM   #86
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I finally tackled this today. I got to say, it was easier than I thought.

As far as modifying the slave cylinder, there's absolutely no reason to drill. You can use a pick or anything pointy to remove the rubber bushing. To remove the metal restrictor I found pushing the valve of the slave cylinder in pushes the fluid out against the restrictor, which dislodges it and makes it easier to pull out.

Installation was a little more difficult then removal, mainly getting the top bolt started. I tightened the lower bolt first to fully seat the slave cylinder, but not all the way. You need some play in it to get the top bolt in. The top bolt took some patience but I finally got it started and tightened it down. I then pushed 200mL of fluid through the valve and that seemed push all the air out.
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      04-22-2019, 12:32 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvr2fast View Post
I finally tackled this today. I got to say, it was easier than I thought.

As far as modifying the slave cylinder, there's absolutely no reason to drill. You can use a pick or anything pointy to remove the rubber bushing. To remove the metal restrictor I found pushing the valve of the slave cylinder in pushes the fluid out against the restrictor, which dislodges it and makes it easier to pull out.

Installation was a little more difficult then removal, mainly getting the top bolt started. I tightened the lower bolt first to fully seat the slave cylinder, but not all the way. You need some play in it to get the top bolt in. The top bolt took some patience but I finally got it started and tightened it down. I then pushed 200mL of fluid through the valve and that seemed push all the air out.
I was under the car over the weekend changing the trans fluid and after reading this thread I was under the impression the slave was way up on top but I was able to get my hands on it easily enough. Are you saying you just pressure bled from the reservoir to the bleed nipple and you are all good?

If that's the case I'm getting under again this weekend to pop it out.
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      04-23-2019, 12:00 PM   #88
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Are you saying you just pressure bled from the reservoir to the bleed nipple and you are all good?
Im pretty sure he means through the slave. For some reason normal older bmw slave bleeding procedures didn't work on my F30. Had to do the syringe method as well.
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