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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N47 and N57 Turbodiesel Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > N47 Fuel Pump Campaign
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      06-19-2019, 11:31 AM   #45
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Does the body of the pump have a hole on the opposite side as well? Going by some pics on TDI, it seems they might
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      06-19-2019, 11:33 AM   #46
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Sure does
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      06-19-2019, 11:43 AM   #47
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Picture answers the question perfectly, although I didn't word it correctly. Thanks!
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      06-20-2019, 07:10 PM   #48
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I guess JB doesn't stick to ABS or whatever kind of plastic that piece is made of.

Looks like intake would have to come off.
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      07-05-2019, 01:45 AM   #49
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So are you sticking with the old pump or managed to get the replacement pump in?
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      07-05-2019, 02:47 PM   #50
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Ordered new flaps / gasket for the intake manifold, the destructions say they need to be replaced if it's removed. That came innthe other day but I Haven't gotten around to messing with it yet, it's been crazy hot out but probably pretty soon.
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      07-06-2019, 12:05 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Ordered new flaps / gasket for the intake manifold, the destructions say they need to be replaced if it's removed. That came innthe other day but I Haven't gotten around to messing with it yet, it's been crazy hot out but probably pretty soon.
Thanks for all of the documentation through all of this. Would you be willing to make a DIY guide after everything is all said and done with?
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      07-06-2019, 06:01 PM   #52
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It's pretty much the same as the newtis instructions for it.


https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nit/1VnXVC8jSu
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      07-07-2019, 02:45 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
It's pretty much the same as the newtis instructions for it.


https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nit/1VnXVC8jSu
Yes, the NEwtis instructions are good. I'll snap a few photos when I mess with it, but depending on whether that plastic cover comes off will decide if I get as far as dismounting the pump.
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      07-07-2019, 10:25 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
It's pretty much the same as the newtis instructions for it.


https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nit/1VnXVC8jSu
Yes, the NEwtis instructions are good. I'll snap a few photos when I mess with it, but depending on whether that plastic cover comes off will decide if I get as far as dismounting the pump.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
It's pretty much the same as the newtis instructions for it.


https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nit/1VnXVC8jSu
Thanks to both
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      07-08-2019, 12:32 PM   #55
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Very dirty intake! Plug still not coming out unfortunately
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      07-08-2019, 01:43 PM   #56
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Hell yeah!! Almost destroyed everything that was sticking out lol
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      07-08-2019, 01:56 PM   #57
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Good progress!

If it's just a surface buildup like on that flap, that is more or less appropriate buildup for the miles.

My old TDI looks about the same and isn't accumulating more.
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      07-08-2019, 08:18 PM   #58
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I came across this on an old post (Bimmerfest by God-Follower). Maybe it'll enhance the bleeding process.

" These diesels can be pretty hard to bleed. Usually we crack a line at the top of one of the injectors until we see fuel coming out without bubbles with just a key cycle(no cranking). This purges most of the air out. Torque the nut to spec while the pump is still running to prevent air from being pulled back in when the pump stops. Then it can still take a few cranking cycles before it starts, but takes less time than just cranking it. I have seen over 10 cranking cycles before they would fire without any sort of bleeding. "
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      07-08-2019, 08:53 PM   #59
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You do not want to use this procedure on any high pressure system. The air is not enough lubrication for the pump internals when cranking.

You must use diagnostics to activate the lift pump for 3 minutes. It's really simple and it works.
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      07-09-2019, 12:10 AM   #60
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So opening up the injector line is not recommended when using diagnostics?
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      07-09-2019, 09:03 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heynow328D View Post
So opening up the injector line is not recommended when using diagnostics?
Cracking the injector line was a common way to bleed the system back when diesels were equipped with a manually operated priming pump. I don't think you'll find a manual that recommends cracking the line when the fuel system is operating at normal pressures.
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      07-09-2019, 09:21 AM   #62
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I could be wrong but I don't think the pump will keep priming if you cycle the key on and off with the newer diesels. The ISTA procedure is probably overkill, but if it's not primed in 3 minutes, it's not going to get primed lol. When I reinstalled my original pump it started right up after the priming procedure.
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      07-09-2019, 07:31 PM   #63
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Got the intake pretty well cleaned up. Car started right up with the new pump head. Haven't driven it enough to say, but it seems a little smoother overall. Totally ruined my toothbrush though!
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      07-09-2019, 07:44 PM   #64
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Good pics.

Now I am curious about your original pump internals, at your mileage.
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      07-09-2019, 10:26 PM   #65
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Curious myself, I'll be tearing into it soon!
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      07-13-2019, 03:12 PM   #66
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My new pump is coming this next week and I'm going over the newtis instructions.
It does not mention anything about the front strut brace which you obviously need to remove. Are there any torque specs for it or just "tighten well"?
Other than that, are the instructions missing anything else?

Thanks for your help everyone!
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