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      12-31-2018, 11:01 AM   #23
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Superb
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      12-31-2018, 03:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
The N20 and N26 use the same plugs. He just stuck with the OEM ones from the sound of it, though I can see how the phrasing he used would be a little confusing
Okay, then I think upgrading the plugs (to a colder heat range) would be a good idea. Thats usually step 1 of running a stage 2 tune on these engines.
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      12-31-2018, 06:19 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by CandyRedRC46 View Post
Okay, then I think upgrading the plugs (to a colder heat range) would be a good idea. Thats usually step 1 of running a stage 2 tune on these engines.
Yep, I agree, and I did that I'm running the NGK's that everyone else does.
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      01-02-2019, 08:48 AM   #26
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> new OEM spark Plugs and injectors
> Yep, I agree, and I did that I'm running the NGK's that everyone else does

pick one
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      01-02-2019, 10:35 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CandyRedRC46 View Post
> new OEM spark Plugs and injectors
> Yep, I agree, and I did that I'm running the NGK's that everyone else does

pick one
??? I don't know what you're asking...
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      01-02-2019, 07:50 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by CandyRedRC46 View Post
Ok so I guess you are saying that you originally had an N26 engine and now you are using oem N20 spark plugs which are two steps colder than the N26 plugs?
Sorry, the engine originally is a N20. The N26 wasn't sold in Aus, but i stuck with stock plugs as they're more than enough for the build of the engine. The stock N20 plugs are 2 step iridium NGK plugs, which have had 2 revisions since being released, i renewed the plugs with the fresh build from rev 1. To rev 2. The part number for the plugs is SILZKBR8D8S.
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      01-03-2019, 09:40 AM   #29
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Okay that makes a lot more sense.
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      04-03-2019, 10:33 PM   #30
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UPDATE:
Last month i had oil pump failure and threw my rod bearings, main bearings, and ruined the Journal on cylinder one of the crankshaft. Engine was pulled again...
Replaced Oil pump! Something i should have done the first time as it had sustained fair amount of damage from the very first time i blew the engine... It was a ticking time bomb....

Now whilst the engine was out, i installed a baffle to the factory sump and glued it into place using 250C oil resistant RTV, grabbed a used crankshaft off ebay that had 32000kms.

had the crankshaft crack tested, had the rods, pistons, block & head cleaned and tested, the crankshaft tunnel had to be line bored as it was out of round by 20 thou.

Installed ACL TRI-Metal Rod bearings, as the VAC rod bearings are just OEM and coated in a low friction coating.
Installed factory Blue main bearings (all blue due to changes in crankshaft tunnel after line boring)

Installed ARP2000 mainstuds 10mm the block had to be time-serted due to the shorter length of the studs. (60 LBFT torque in 3 equal steps) Due to the clearance issues with the counterbalance shaft/oil pump module these main studs MUST! Be installed without a washer and the top of the stud cut off so that the top of the stud lines up with the top of the nut which inturn lines up with the base of the bedplate.

Changed out the 18T Compressor Wheel on the turbo to a custom 49.10 inducer 65mm exducer 6+6 design just for more flow, as the 18T is abit underrated for the power I'm after. Turbo was rebuilt again since bearing material from the spun rod bearings made it into the turbo housing, rest of the engine remained clean... Not sure how this happened. Turbo was also rebalanced and housing machined to suit the new compressor wheel.

N55 PSP oil heat exchanger to oil cooler adaptor plate, Aeroflow 25 row oil cooler with 10AN Aeroflow fittings with stainless braided hoses the pipe from the coolant pump to the factory oil heat exchanger is blocked off with a plug. Insane how much of a temp difference this makes!! Worth it! Dropped both oil and coolant temps by 20/10 respectively.

Engine is now back together cost another $6500 to fix this issue. Will post photos of the oil sump baffle. Engine is running Halim from HC performance is working on my tune after continuous troubles finding a tuner, Xhp flash tool will release a 8 spd auto tranny flash in the next 3 months as anything over 382 hp atw will start seeing software torque limiting.

Factory limiting is 550nm at the crank for all gears except 3&6 which is 450nm limit at the crank

Timing chains and oil pump chain seems to be completely fine, as are the guides and tensioner. The crankshaft torsion bolt is torque to yield and the torque specs are 100nm + 270 of rotation.... Its absolutely insane amount of torque and the locking pin from the camshaft timing tool will bend and snap with this torque, using a flywheel locking gear is recommended its a F****load of torque!

Currently have stage 2 BM3 BEF with the JB4 running for 26psi on e85, and 24psi for 98 RON (93 for you US folks) Logs looking fine, good afrs no knock and great ignition, not dynoing until my BM3 tune for the car is complete so i can do away with the JB4, also with the tranny torque limiting, i will get some very disappointing results

Photo test mounting, intercooler, oil cooler and intake


Photo installing the Tomei Universal oil pan baffle, please note! Only one baffle is needed since the way the pump and pickup sit in the sump, and given its location a baffle is actually only needed in the spot shown in the photo, the baffle will need to have its height reduced by half as it will contact the oil pump and you'll have issues putting everything together, also glued a magnet to the oil drain plug! Hate working with plastics... But challenge accepted!

Last edited by navardi; 04-11-2019 at 08:22 PM..
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      04-04-2019, 09:25 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
UPDATE:
Last month i had oil pump failure and threw my rod bearings, main bearings, and ruined the Journal on cylinder one of the crankshaft. Engine was pulled again...
Replaced Oil pump! Something i should have done the first time as it had sustained fair amount of damage from the very first time i blew the engine... It was a ticking time bomb....

Now whilst the engine was out, i installed a baffle to the factory sump and glued it into place using 250C oil resistant RTV, grabbed a used crankshaft off ebay that had 32000kms.

had the crankshaft crack tested, had the rods, pistons, block & head cleaned and tested, the crankshaft tunnel had to be line bored as it was out of round by 20 thou.

Installed ACL TRI-Metal Rod bearings, as the VAC rod bearings are just OEM and coated in a low friction coating.
Installed factory Blue main bearings (all blue due to changes in crankshaft tunnel after line boring)

Installed ARP2000 mainstuds 10mm the block had to be time-serted due to the shorter length of the studs. Due to the clearance issues with the counterbalance shaft/oil pump module these main studs MUST! Be installed without a washer and the top of the stud cut off so that the top of the stud lines up with the top of the nut which inturn lines up with the base of the bedplate.

Changed out the 18T Compressor Wheel on the turbo to a custom 49.10 inducer 65mm exducer 6+6 design just for more flow, as the 18T is abit underrated for the power I'm after. Turbo was rebuilt again since bearing material from the spun rod bearings made it into the turbo housing, rest of the engine remained clean... Not sure how this happened. Turbo was also rebalanced and housing machined to suit the new compressor wheel.

N55 PSP oil heat exchanger to oil cooler adaptor plate, Aeroflow 25 row oil cooler with 10AN Aeroflow fittings with stainless braided hoses the pipe from the coolant pump to the factory oil heat exchanger is blocked off with a plug. Insane how much of a temp difference this makes!! Worth it! Dropped both oil and coolant temps by 20/10 respectively.

Engine is now back together cost another $6500 to fix this issue. Will post photos of the oil sump baffle. Engine is running Halim from HC performance is working on my tune after continuous troubles finding a tuner, Xhp flash tool will release a 8 spd auto tranny flash in the next 3 months as anything over 382 hp atw will start seeing software torque limiting.

Factory limiting is 550nm at the crank for all gears except 3&6 which is 450nm limit at the crank

Timing chains and oil pump chain seems to be completely fine, as are the guides and tensioner. The crankshaft torsion bolt is torque to yield and the torque specs are 100nm + 270 of rotation.... Its absolutely insane amount of torque and the locking pin from the camshaft timing tool will bend and snap with this torque, using a flywheel locking gear is recommended its a F****load of torque!

Currently have stage 2 BM3 BEF with the JB4 running for 26psi on e85, and 24psi for 98 RON (93 for you US folks) Logs looking fine, good afrs no knock and great ignition, not dynoing until my BM3 tune for the car is complete so i can do away with the JB4, also with the tranny torque limiting, i will get some very disappointing results

Photo test mounting, intercooler, oil cooler and intake


Photo installing the Tomei Universal oil pan baffle, please note! Only one baffle is needed since the way the pump and pickup sit in the sump, and given its location a baffle is actually only needed in the spot shown in the photo, the baffle will need to have its height reduced by half as it will contact the oil pump and you'll have issues putting everything together, also glued a magnet to the oil drain plug! Hate working with plastics... But challenge accepted!
Thanks for the update! Sorry to see you had another big failure though

Still really cool to see a build like this come along, keep the updates coming if you can
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      04-08-2019, 10:49 PM   #32
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I cant believe we are going to let this thread be buried by "exhaust sound" questions and "what mods should I get for my car?"

Thank you so much for the amazing information navardi! I'm sorry to hear of your misfortunes but you are definitely laying the ground work for something very special!
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      04-10-2019, 02:40 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylantm View Post
I cant believe we are going to let this thread be buried by "exhaust sound" questions and "what mods should I get for my car?"

Thank you so much for the amazing information navardi! I'm sorry to hear of your misfortunes but you are definitely laying the ground work for something very special!
Cheers man 😅, definitely want this post to help push more people to build this engine, i think poor mans budget, provided you strip a healthy engine you can do it for $9000 AUD, or if you get a shop to do all the work expect about $15000. Absolutely happy to give any advice to the community about this project, and can say i did alot of this on my back patio and not in a work shop, with a handful of tools (torque wrenches and Correct sockets/torx bits are the absolute most important) seriously aiming for 450whp, which would make it the worlds fastest documented N20, but we will see still need to get a final tune sorted and a tranny flash

Last edited by navardi; 06-23-2019 at 08:53 AM..
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      04-11-2019, 07:03 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
Cheers man 😅, definitely want this post to help push more people to build this engine, i think poor mans budget, probided you strip a healthy engine you can do it for $9000 AUD, or if you get a shop to do all the work expect about $15000. Absolutely happy to give any advice to the community about this project, and can say i did alot of this on my back patio and not in a work shop, with a handful of tools (torque wrenches and Correct sockets/torx bits are the absolute most important) seriously aiming for 450whp, which would make it the worlds fastest documented N20, but we will see still need to get a final tune sorted and a tranny flash
Are you going to end up going with the XHP Flashtool when they drop that or something else to tune the transmission?
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      04-11-2019, 07:51 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LordRuxpin View Post
Are you going to end up going with the XHP Flashtool when they drop that or something else to tune the transmission?
Definitely XHP I'm not aware of any other tranny tunes especially for our car, same 8spd as the n55 but apparently the coding is alilttle different hence why we can't flash the current n55 8spd tune.
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      04-11-2019, 08:22 PM   #36
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Hey Guys UPDATED THE FIRST POST FOR LINKS TO SOME OF THE PARTS CHEERS ❤️
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      05-28-2019, 08:28 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
Hey Guys UPDATED THE FIRST POST FOR LINKS TO SOME OF THE PARTS CHEERS ❤️

Any updates on your tune?
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      05-30-2019, 09:26 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylantm View Post
Any updates on your tune?
so far Halim has sorted a E85 tune, but is still dialling it in, i have flashed V1 of this tune, but it needed some ignition advances and once that the baseline is correct he will adjust boost from 22 to 30psi. Still waiting on XHP for the tranny tune. As for 98 (93) Tune, ive just gone with stage 2 BM3 as a BEF and run the jb4 in Map 1 mode adding 4psi (24psi from 3500-5500) dyno is looking to be booked in once i return from work trip, so mid to late August, this has been a very long build. But so much fun! Also just invested in the BMS meth kit, and will be installing that shortly
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      05-31-2019, 10:44 AM   #39
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Wow. Just wow.
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      05-31-2019, 05:45 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylantm View Post
I cant believe we are going to let this thread be buried by "exhaust sound" questions and "what mods should I get for my car?"

Thank you so much for the amazing information navardi! I'm sorry to hear of your misfortunes but you are definitely laying the ground work for something very special!
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      06-23-2019, 08:23 AM   #41
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Well just because i figured Ive been this far already i might as well install the cutting ring gasket from VAC Motorsports.

Basically its nice and easy install, but a word of caution!

DO NOT INSTALL THIS HEADGASKET WITH THE ENGINE IN THE CAR!

I say this because i did it, the first cutting ring slid just enough as we put the head on that when i put coolant back into the cooling system it entered the sump and putting coolant all over the entire running assembly. Please! Pull the block and do it on a flat surface! This gasket has barely any tolerance so it needs to be done right!

So first stop is ensure the block surface is clean, either have a shop machine it or use 800 Grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of straight glass or steel, for example Keystone, lathe tooling, engineering bench surfaces, straight edges. Must be exactly true straight or your block is going to hate you!

I used a lathe cutting tool roughly 30cmx15cmx15cm

Cover the pistons and timing case, i used rags/old bits of clothing, and shoved them into the bores and timing case, down enough that they didn't interfere with the sanding, last thing you want is aluminium in your piston bores.

Apply some cutting lube, i used WD40 & Using the paper do figure 8s and continue until any dead bits of gasket & carbon are gone and the block is shiny, if you go up and down or left and right you leave grooves for the coolant or oil to escape and you'll blow a gasket.

Give the block a really good clean, blow out cylinders really ensure they're free from debris, use brake cleaner to clean the block surface from leftover grit from sanding use cloths that don't leave fibres as these will prevent a good gasket seal! (I would also suggest doing an oil change after you've reach operating oil temp)

Ensure your head has been machined, not kidding this is a must! Also clean the surface with brake clean and wipe down with a cloth that doesn't leave fibres, give everything a good blow with compressed air both head and block ensure its all debris free and proceed to laying the gasket onto the block! Aligning the rings to the gasket and bores, we ensured both alignment dowels were in the block (factory one is in block and one is in head) we did this to ensure the gasket was absolutely perfectly aligned.

In the picture below, you need to use RTV, i used oil resistant 250 C RTV to apply some sort of sealing layer around this low pressure oil gallery (circled in red) as for some unknown reason the gasket doesn't have it whilst the stock one does, i have emailed VAC about this. Apply it in a thin bead on the block and the top side of the head gasket as you want to seal between the gasket and block and gasket and the head, i say thin because too much and the gasket wont properly seal everywhere else.

Next place your head studs in if you have them, slide your head on and torque it up to 95ftlbs in 3 stages. If you're using the factory head studs just align to the dowels and put new studs in following BMW's spec.

BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL PLACING THE HEAD ON THE GASKET AS THESE RINGS CANNOT MOVE IF THEY DO THEY CAUSE EITHER HOTSPOTS IN THE CYLINDER OR THEY'LL HOLD UP THE HEAD GASKET CAUSING COOLANT AND OIL MIXING

This gasket cuts grooves into the cylinder head approx. 6thou in depth, head will need to be machined if you blow this gasket, also if you're using arp headstuds -- which you should be for this gasket, warm the car up to operating temp (oil temp of 85C not water temp because thats subjective. Then turn off engine and remove valve cover and check the torque of your head studs again. If you're using factory head bolts Goodluck you can't check these, just hope for the best.


View post on imgur.com



You should be able to just see the black RTV, i added extra than mentioned above due to my enlarged bolt holes for my unique stud setup that would not be required if i had the n55 studs to begin with.


View post on imgur.com

Last edited by navardi; 06-23-2019 at 08:52 AM..
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      06-30-2019, 09:37 PM   #42
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navardi This is so cool! Now I can see how the head studs look. I just installed a gplus oil cooler and stainless steel stoptech break lines after doing the arp bolts and oil baffle you helped me out with! Still tuning the pump gas tune with Cary Jordan and then moving to the E60 tune.He said my car has a very old ROM that was giving some weird issues and we are working through all that.
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      07-06-2019, 03:49 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yesuurd View Post
navardi This is so cool! Now I can see how the head studs look. I just installed a gplus oil cooler and stainless steel stoptech break lines after doing the arp bolts and oil baffle you helped me out with! Still tuning the pump gas tune with Cary Jordan and then moving to the E60 tune.He said my car has a very old ROM that was giving some weird issues and we are working through all that.
Thats some good progress man! Glad its running! Cary is a solid tuner, should be interesting to see what power you make on e60!
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      08-27-2019, 07:30 PM   #44
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Any update on this build and tune? How's it holding up? What Power you at?
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