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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N47 and N57 Turbodiesel Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Transfer Case Output Flange Failure, Cause Analysis, Prevention, and Repair
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      02-17-2019, 11:55 AM   #45
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The amazon reviews for the 660 show numerous people who applied it and waited 24-48 hrs only to find it wasn't dry. It probably depends on your application though. , most of the reviews are great. It looks like the primer is needed for it to work on magnesium, aluminum, and some other metals. It's also recommended when the temp is cold. I intend to use it, doesnt seem like it could hurt
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      02-17-2019, 01:47 PM   #46
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Seems like the fix could create issue for a related or unrelated TC warranty claim. Damned if you do and damned if you don't. Hopefully BMWNA/AG takes note of your findings and agrees a fix is needed.
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      02-17-2019, 02:51 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpineX View Post
Seems like the fix could create issue for a related or unrelated TC warranty claim. Damned if you do and damned if you don't. Hopefully BMWNA/AG takes note of your findings and agrees a fix is needed.
This is true, but really the only way the dealer would know would be to remove the output flange. It seems that the dealers don't actually do this since they don't replace that part. Based on my experience, replacing just the flange wouldn't hold up long anyways, since the mating input shaft should be replaced with it. Not sure if they send the damaged units back to Germany for warranty coverage or what, but it's unlikely anyone would notice until the unit was refurbished.

I don't think anyone with a warranty is likely to slide under the car and mess with it in the first place though.
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      02-18-2019, 02:39 PM   #48
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As this wears, the oil is coming out the splines? Possibly a good indicator?
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      02-18-2019, 06:45 PM   #49
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What had caused me to look at it was the oil, but actually I had thought about it a bit in the last few days, and I had a metallic click noise when shifting from reverse to drive, etc. Makes sense.



Even for people getting this fixed at dealer under warranty, ask them to change the flex disc to the all rubber superseding part number. This should already suppress a lot of the vibrations.
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      02-20-2019, 03:59 PM   #50
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This thread is fantastic, lots of information.

First time poster, new to the bimmer community.
I was thinking on buying a 328xd Wagon but the transfer case issue scared me a bit.

If I end up getting one, I think ill have the Loctite and all rubber giubo done real soon.

I guess the Bilstein B6 will have to wait...
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      02-20-2019, 04:56 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ciano Station Wagon View Post
I guess the Bilstein B6 will have to wait...
That's OK, they're OOS nation-wide anyways (normal and damptronic) with an "ETA" of late May (if you know anything about Bilstein you know that this "ETA" can't be trusted and will likely get pushed out again). You'll have to import them from Europe if you want them.
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      02-20-2019, 09:55 PM   #52
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I go back in Italy every summer I can buy there and bring back.

But looks like Iíll buy a spare ATC 35L first !
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      02-24-2019, 12:51 AM   #53
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Talking Off-topic questions for OP

Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
For now, I'll be running mine in 2wd mode, until I actually need 4wd.
1) How is it that you're able to run "in 2wd mode"? Do you use some sort of flash tuning technique to disable xDrive? I've heard about the xDelete Android app, but also heard that the app doesn't quite yet support F3Xs (but it will imminently).

2) I see you 'self-tuned' your '28d. How many (and which) different parameters (boost pressure, ignition pulse duration, fuel rail pressure, etc.) did you tinker with to achieve your 245hp/400lb-ft?

Okay, that's all By the way, this is an amazing thread... truly an exemplary contribution to the community.
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      03-09-2019, 07:46 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot View Post

2) I see you 'self-tuned' your '28d. How many (and which) different parameters (boost pressure, ignition pulse duration, fuel rail pressure, etc.) did you tinker with to achieve your 245hp/400lb-ft?
Yes please .. do you have a thread on your build/tuning ?

Quote:
By the way, this is an amazing thread... truly an exemplary contribution to the community.
Ditto - props from me too. Had our TC replaced just after purchase with 22K on it in 2017 .. at 48K now with extended warranty until 05/2020. Noticed the slippage/"misfire" symptom immediately once we got it.
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      03-15-2019, 06:44 PM   #55
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Sorry for the delay, it has been a very busy month for me.

The tuning part is not something that can easily be done at home, even by normal enthusiasts. (Heck, even some tuning companies have a difficult time getting it right.) I have some 5 years experience with tuning, plus a few very good friends, with all sorts of information. That and some 34 flashes and 20,000 miles of testing just on my personal car.
I do need to put up a thread on it sometime, especially when I do an updated dyno of it. I am in a good healthcare career, so this is more of an extreme hobby, with the help of a few good friends.
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      04-09-2019, 11:50 AM   #56
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Phenomenol work Enabled, thanks for doing this. My car has been doing the hesitation thing for 6 months now. Do you think doing the loctite and rubber bushing would buy me some time?
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      04-21-2019, 06:12 PM   #57
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Hi everyone. My car is 61k miles. Iíve had some problems with vibrations form driveline. I was sure that this is xdrive problem, but after removing alloy guibo I found that it was totally broken. I will post a video tomorrow.
Please do remember when you make a change for rubber one you will have to adjust rear shaft.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...shaft/1Loe7egW

Iíve also found that flange has a bit of play. So that fix with loctite looks great.
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      04-21-2019, 06:33 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yyveel View Post
Hi everyone. My car is 61k miles. Iíve had some problems with vibrations form driveline. I was sure that this is xdrive problem, but after removing alloy guibo I found that it was totally broken. I will post a video tomorrow.
Please do remember when you make a change for rubber one you will have to adjust rear shaft.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...shaft/1Loe7egW

Iíve also found that flange has a bit of play. So that fix with loctite looks great.
The breaking and exploding alloy giubo was the main reason why BMW superseded to the rubber one, I had found out.
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      04-22-2019, 12:04 AM   #59
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my 2014 F31 328d x drive is at bmw for what will now be my 3rd transfer case issue.

this is good info.. BMW needs to fix this
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      04-22-2019, 09:25 AM   #60
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Interesting on the bearing adjustment procedure. So, it looks like having a bearing seal driver if the bearing needs to be seated deeper or a 2 arm puller if it needs outward adjustment is a necessity. (Or the BMW specific tools). I wonder if it's some weird size that you won't find in an off the shelf kit?

The bearing replacement procedure calls for a 4+2 mm tolerance on the center bearing protrusion. So the range would appear to be 4-6mm to avoid driveshaft damage.
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      04-22-2019, 12:36 PM   #61
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Good info on that newtis page!

I'm sure it's easy to figure out a tool to press/pull the bushing to the right position.
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      04-22-2019, 12:37 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PabloK View Post
my 2014 F31 328d x drive is at bmw for what will now be my 3rd transfer case issue.

this is good info.. BMW needs to fix this
If possible, I would get them to put Loctite 660 on the new clean flange/shaft.
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      04-22-2019, 05:38 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
Good info on that newtis page!

I'm sure it's easy to figure out a tool to press/pull the bushing to the right position.
It needs to be pressed about ~4mm. I did it with socket and hammer. It needs a bit hammering to set it right. But be careful itís really hard to measure that protrusion.

Here is a video of my broken guibo (sorry itís in Polish)
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0Ofy...4sTfpRhTcZWnYw
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      04-23-2019, 08:15 PM   #64
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Definitely very broken! Was there vibration in the driveline or was it just noisy?
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      04-24-2019, 06:26 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Definitely very broken! Was there vibration in the driveline or was it just noisy?
Vibration under light acceleration (1500-2000rpm). Especially in eco pro in lower gears.
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      04-24-2019, 07:32 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enabled View Post
The breaking and exploding alloy giubo was the main reason why BMW superseded to the rubber one, I had found out.
Hi Enabled,

How many miles do you have on the "loctited" transfer case ?
If is holding up I will feel much better buying a used F31 d

Also car after 07/2015 have all the rubber shaft coupling ?
From the tracking spreadsheet looks like there are less failures of LCI models.
Maybe we don't have enough data for newer models but it might be that the new rubber guibo does just enough to keep the splines in good condition.

I wonder if a bmw dealer would sell a broken transfer case, I'll refurbish it myself and keep it as spare. There must be a sh**load of transfers cases that need only a new shaft and a flange...

Something like the x delete to keep the TC open in RWD would not help here as the failure is on the flange that is attached to the rear driveshaft.
Initially I was thinking that that would help but doesn't look like it.
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