[Madstop]

Hey y'all. Just installed MHD (Stage 2+) and did some driving over the past day or so. Took this log and wanted to make sure that everything seemed okay. Mostly looking at timing correction and difference between boost/target boost.

Mods:
-VRSF Race Intercooler/charge pipes
-Pure Stage 1 Turbo
-Burger Motorsports Intake
-Turbosmart BOV

https://*********************/graphs...,31&zoom=-1,67

[thejeremyman9]

Upload the log to datazap and post the link. You cant link to the website you posted on these forums.

And read my thread: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1732327

[n55david]

Originally Posted by Madstop

Hey y'all. Just installed MHD (Stage 2+) and did some driving over the past day or so. Took this log and wanted to make sure that everything seemed okay. Mostly looking at timing correction and difference between boost/target boost.

Mods:
-VRSF Race Intercooler/charge pipes
-Pure Stage 1 Turbo
-Burger Motorsports Intake
-Turbosmart BOV

https://*********************/graphs...,31&zoom=-1,67

What car specifically is it as well?

But yeah, do what Jeremy says

[Madstop]

Thanks for the info, Jeremy! I'll see if I can do that this morning.

David, it's a 15 435i drive with 73k miles, motor rebuilt about 5k miles ago.

[Madstop]

I'm back, and this time hopefully come across slightly more intelligent!

To begin, the car:
'15 435i xdrive 73.5k miles, motor rebuilt approx 68.5k due to rod bearing failure
- VRSF Race Intercooler/charge pipes
- VRSF High Flow Cat DP
- Pure Stage 1 Turbo
- Burger Motorsports Intake
- Turbosmart BOV

The day:
- 61 deg f
- sea level
- flat road
- shades on

The data:
- 2022-05-04 18_12_49 is the best of the 3 and what my below analysis is pulled from
- All pulls started at approx 40mph in 4th gear
- Link:
https://datazap.me/u/madstop/52422-p...&data=5-7-8-18

The Results:

Note: My analysis is in the same article that Jeremy linked. Basically want to make sure it is accurate and I have a few questions.

1.) Boost & Load Examination
1.A - Boost
- Pressure is sea level and so no losses expected due to elevation
- 3100-3400 lag of 3-4psi approx. (lag for turbo to spool?)
- remains within 1-1.5psi lower than target after (based on part 1 of your guide seems okay?)
- Might have slight leak somewhere. Did notice at low speeds there is a slight whistle under load. Cannot hear at standstill
1.B - Load
- Early RPM climb Load Act lags Load Req'd, gets closer until 5800, then lags again
- Similar trend to boost, however a majority falls in the 10-15% off target
- Another potential sign of a boost leak?

2.) Timing
- Sadly Timing seems to not be great today (Odd as previous pulls had near perfect timing)
- IAT was at 72 deg f, 10-12 deg f above ambient
- Knock Interpolation was 0 throughout
- Could this be running 93 octane Stage 2+ on my setup isn't viable?

3.) HPFP
- Data was not recorded (My bad sorry!). That being said I do not believe I am pushing fueling on 93 oct

4.) IATs
- As above IATs are within 10-12 deg f, seems the big ol vrsf is doing her job

5.) Throttle vs Accel
- 2800 to 3300 Accel chases Throttle
- Rest of pull Throttle chases Accel until they converge at 5100rpm

6.) WGDC
- Remains in high 80s to low 90s as expected

7.) STFTs
- Runs on the lean side (goes with the writeup)
- makes sense with the target boost and load figures
- Remains within 6% for full pull, not too worried

8.) Lambda Bank 1
- Pull ranges from 14.4 at 3k to 12.2 at 6.6k
- Range seems acceptable here, helps quell any fears on hpfp

9.) Torque Limit
- Blipped at end of pull, don't think I'll be flashing trans anytime soon, unless I really should?

10.) MAF and other parameters
- MAF peaked at 42 lb/min, I think that's pretty reasonable for the BMS intake based on the writeup?
- MAF did however remain 6lb/min approx below target for full pull
- Oil pressure hovered between 70-80psi, this seem okay?
- Rail Pressure spiked early to 2900 psi and decreased to 2500psi over pull, this seem okay?

[n55david]

Trans flash is an absolute must do man. Sorry to tell ya. It's a huge change and more than worth it.

It was so much of a big deal when I did it on my 335 that I did it on my x3 before any other mod.

[thejeremyman9]

Nice analysis. Skimmed the log and generally agree. BTW HPFP pressure is rail pressure, so it is in the log. Timing isnt great, and in most places 93 octane isnt very good so people run the 91 map with 93 fuel. That's always an option. The timing will only get worse as IAT/ambient temps increase.

Given that you have a PS1 the load and boost are a little more off target than i would expect. You could do a smoke/pressure test to confirm no leaks.

EDIT: Oh, and you definitely want XHP... You will be riding torque limits in 3rd/6th even if you dont hit them in other gears. Not to mention all the other benefits.

[harkes]

Timing is awful indeed. Try a log on Stage1 with the same gas.

You are not running lean - looking good. STFT is not a marker or this. You need to look at your AFR.

AFR does not tell anything about your HPFP - look at rail pressure for this. If dipping several hundred psi below target, then you have reached (exceeded) the limit.

MAF at 320 g/s = 405 crank HP (~405 whp in USA)

[Madstop]

Hey guys thanks for all the feedback!

Jeremy thats interesting with the octane. Would buying booster potentially help or just not worth the hassle?

Hi Harkes, seems like you and Jeremy diverge with interpreting the data unless I am misunderstanding (totally possible). I remain within 60 psi (generally within 30-50) for rail pressure, so I assume that's good. Overall pressure does drop during the pull for both (2900 to 2500) is that expected? AFR seems fine to me.

Is there a relationship of MAF to WHP? That'd be cool to know

[n55david]

Originally Posted by Madstop

Hey guys thanks for all the feedback!

Jeremy thats interesting with the octane. Would buying booster potentially help or just not worth the hassle?

Hi Harkes, seems like you and Jeremy diverge with interpreting the data unless I am misunderstanding (totally possible). I remain within 60 psi (generally within 30-50) for rail pressure, so I assume that's good. Overall pressure does drop during the pull for both (2900 to 2500) is that expected? AFR seems fine to me.

Is there a relationship of MAF to WHP? That'd be cool to know

Pressure is fine. It shows you actual and the requested pressure. You have no issues with hpfp with this setup.

You do have absolutely garbage fuel. You should be on a much lower octane tune.

There is a correlation between maf reading and hp.. however the moment you change to an aftermarket intake, there is no longer accurate enough readings to use it. It's crank hp not wheel hp though. The bms intake is one of the worst offenders of this. You're maf numbers don't mean shit now...

It's possible you may have a boost leak.. I have no idea really. I know zero people using this tune with a ewg ps1 setup. Zero.

[Madstop]

I had a 3 hour drive yesterday and filled up at the same station I did before with 93. Swapped the tune to 91 oct, and boy you can feel the dip in power between the two:/

Did another pull yesterday as well to look at numbers, and the timing is still off across the board. I just did 1 step colder NGKs within 5k miles so it shouldn't be that. Would looking at coil packs be worthwhile? Or no because timing correction spans across cylinders?

Also seems like all other figures are behaving normally, at least the same as my 93 data. Boost still sitting 1-2 psi low and load is lagging as well. Picture and link below.

https://datazap.me/u/madstop/5262022...33-34-35-36-37

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Madstop

Hey guys thanks for all the feedback!

Jeremy thats interesting with the octane. Would buying booster potentially help or just not worth the hassle?

Hi Harkes, seems like you and Jeremy diverge with interpreting the data unless I am misunderstanding (totally possible). I remain within 60 psi (generally within 30-50) for rail pressure, so I assume that's good. Overall pressure does drop during the pull for both (2900 to 2500) is that expected? AFR seems fine to me.

Is there a relationship of MAF to WHP? That'd be cool to know

Where did we diverge? I dont think we said anything different from one another.

Your rail pressure is fine. You need dips of several hundred psi before it will bcome a fuel supply issue. You just compare actual to target.

I suggested the octane bosoter as a one time test not a long term solution. If you add enough to get your octane up to say 95 and your timing corrections go away, you confirm its a fuel/octane issue.

Also, i havent been on in a few days, so lost track of threads, but why did you do the colder plugs? Did you also gap them down? You don't need either of those things... stock plugs stock gap... The plugs may not solve your problem if its truly fuel quality but those probably are not helping either.

[Madstop]

Hey Jeremy, I think there was actually just confusion on my end, apologies. In my original analysis I said that the acceptable AFRs quelled any fears of faulty HPFP because I didn't realize I actually had that data in the log. So just confusion on my end.

I am running NGK 97506s gapped to .022". After the rebuild car was running pretty rough, and folks with similar mods said they had good results with this setup. I had also read going 1 step colder per 75-100hp added was a general practice.

Also as a sanity check I went through my plugs and coils again this evening and everything looked good. No burnt plugs or beat up coils.

I'll try the booster next and see what happens.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Madstop

Hey Jeremy, I think there was actually just confusion on my end, apologies. In my original analysis I said that the acceptable AFRs quelled any fears of faulty HPFP because I didn't realize I actually had that data in the log. So just confusion on my end.

I am running NGK 97506s gapped to .022". After the rebuild car was running pretty rough, and folks with similar mods said they had good results with this setup. I had also read going 1 step colder per 75-100hp added was a general practice.

Also as a sanity check I went through my plugs and coils again this evening and everything looked good. No burnt plugs or beat up coils.

I'll try the booster next and see what happens.

The colder plugs/smaller gap is a common trap people fall into, especially because BM3 says to do it. However try the booster first (make sure its a legit one like the one i linked, not a generic auto parts store one), then go back to stock plugs stock gap if you need to.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

The colder plugs/smaller gap is a common trap people fall into, especially because BM3 says to do it. However try the booster first (make sure its a legit one like the one i linked, not a generic auto parts store one), then go back to stock plugs stock gap if you need to.

I’ve seen way more issues with those plugs than success stories. They’ll either be defective out of the box, or just work for a few months until they cause issues, and in the best (but minor) scenarios, they work.

They are garbage, everyone should just stick with oem plugs.

[714BMW]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

I’ve seen way more issues with those plugs than success stories. They’ll either be defective out of the box, or just work for a few months until they cause issues, and in the best (but minor) scenarios, they work.

They are garbage, everyone should just stick with oem plugs.

Even on higher E85 applications? They haven't given me much hassle so far being gapped 0.022 on full E85 but wasn't sure if I should go back go stock plugs for the next change or if these colder ones would be best to continue on with.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by 714BMW

Even on higher E85 applications? They haven't given me much hassle so far being gapped 0.022 on full E85 but wasn't sure if I should go back go stock plugs for the next change or if these colder ones would be best to continue on with.

Stock plugs/gap can work even on full E85 yes (or with meth, etc), but if you have luck with the NGKs, you dont necessarily need to go back. I wouldn't fix what isnt broken. In most cases that means dont change from stock, but in your case it might mean keep the NGKs. This is particularly true if you have a custom tune and your tuner is expecting you to have those plugs/gap

[714BMW]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Stock plugs/gap can work even on full E85 yes (or with meth, etc), but if you have luck with the NGKs, you dont necessarily need to go back. I wouldn't fix what isnt broken. In most cases that means dont change from stock, but in your case it might mean keep the NGKs. This is particularly true if you have a custom tune and your tuner is expecting you to have those plugs/gap

Ahhh okay makes sense. Yeah I'm on a custom tune with his knowledge that I'm on these plugs with this gap so I'll stick to it. Thanks for the info