[BoyOhBoyyy]

Originally Posted by nbay89

I'm probably more cautious than need be but I wait until the engine is at full operating temperature before driving aggressive. It only takes an extra minute or two. Below is my typical operating temp. Don't mind the low fuel icon!

Mine's at that same temp as well and my drive to work is a 15 min 8 mile drive but I never seem to be able to hit it even during this summer time.. That's what got me wondering. When am I able to really drive it and have fun outside of cruising around for no reason during this lock down

[BoyOhBoyyy]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

You can drive as soon as the warm-up program stops and the idle needle drops after startup. I would not go to turbos until oil reaches 220+.

I'm a month into owning a BMW and this is my first turbos'd engine. How do I know at what RPMs do turbos start to kick in for the N55 engine? Can't exactly tell stock with MPE exhaust

[BoyOhBoyyy]

Originally Posted by upsidedownfunnel

It's worse for your engine to idle long periods cold. On all modern cars, it's better to drive moderately right away (after about 20-30 seconds). The added load of slow driving will warm up your engine much more quickly which actually reduces wear compared to idling for 5 minutes.

Pretty much anything over 200 degF (probably lower) is fine to drive hard and fully warmed up. With synthetic oil, engines really don't have to be fully warmed up to avoid damage. It's really just more efficient for the engine to run closer to 240 degF.

Had no clue that it was bad to let it idle! Was doing that the first 3 weeks of owning the car and just stopped last week. Got it! So anything over the half way point between 1st needle and he 2nd is good. Is there any way to check oil temp like on the iDrive or somewhere else where it's digitally?

[BoyOhBoyyy]

Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes

Yeah, everything I've read usually says something like keep it under 2K until it warms up...but again, in many situations that can still be impossible, or you'd be doing laps around the neighborhood. Drive it for sure in the summer, no waiting required. Lots of torque down low can get you to stay below 2K if you can control the shifts.

I've read 2k and then sometimes seen 3k mentioned by members. Definitely good to hear 2k is the typical answer. Going to try to keep below 2 more often although I feel like a snail driving around until it warms up

[Gen13 F36]

Originally Posted by BoyOhBoyyy

I've read 2k and then sometimes seen 3k mentioned by members. Definitely good to hear 2k is the typical answer. Going to try to keep below 2 more often although I feel like a snail driving around until it warms up

Yeah try driving below 2k rpm. Which is a crawl for 2 miles just to get that temperature gauge needle to move..

Under 3k rpm is fine....try keeping an eye how the car shift during normal driving in comfort mode.. usually 1st gear to 2nd gear happens at 2200 to 2500 rpm then the same on to 3rd gear and probably 2k going to 4th and so on.

That the shift behavior of my car anyway. So what I do is just follow it when the car is cold (that's because I go sport mode right away with paddle shift)

[BMWILUVU]

Originally Posted by BoyOhBoyyy

I'm a month into owning a BMW and this is my first turbos'd engine. How do I know at what RPMs do turbos start to kick in for the N55 engine? Can't exactly tell stock with MPE exhaust

If the N55 is like the B58, then in Sport I think its around 2500RPM and in Sport+ its 2000RPM or just drive in eco mode until the temperature reaches over 200.

[Gen13 F36]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

If the N55 is like the B58, then in Sport I think its around 2500RPM and in Sport+ its 2000RPM or just drive in eco mode until the temperature reaches over 200.

the spec for the N55 say max tq at 1300 rpm. so turbo kick it at that point.

[upsidedownfunnel]

Originally Posted by BoyOhBoyyy

Had no clue that it was bad to let it idle! Was doing that the first 3 weeks of owning the car and just stopped last week. Got it! So anything over the half way point between 1st needle and he 2nd is good. Is there any way to check oil temp like on the iDrive or somewhere else where it's digitally?

I don't think there's anywhere in the iDrive where it will show you the oil temp digitally. You'd need a device that can talk through the OBD2 port to monitor it digitally.

The newer G body cars have a sports display that will display a bunch of temperatures on the iDrive screen but that isn't available on our cars.

[BoyOhBoyyy]

Originally Posted by BMWILUVU

If the N55 is like the B58, then in Sport I think its around 2500RPM and in Sport+ its 2000RPM or just drive in eco mode until the temperature reaches over 200.

Smart! Ok let me do that for now. I didn't know Sport and Sport+ were different in terms of the rpm shifting. I always thought one had traction control and one didn't so I never used Sport+. Super interesting!

[BoyOhBoyyy]

Originally Posted by Gen13 F36

the spec for the N55 say max tq at 1300 rpm. so turbo kick it at that point.

Gotta be kidding me... what?? Car barely moves before turbos start kicking it in that case. Big shocker if this is true. Thanks for the info

[BMWILUVU]

Originally Posted by BoyOhBoyyy

Smart! Ok let me do that for now. I didn't know Sport and Sport+ were different in terms of the rpm shifting. I always thought one had traction control and one didn't so I never used Sport+. Super interesting!

I am sorry I mean in Sport/+ the car runs in higher cruise-RPMS to keep the turbos near-spooled. Just drive in eco or comfort and don't get on it until temperatures are over 200.

[RGM330i]

I keep it below 3,000 until I start to see the needle move. Then, below 4,000 until full temperature. I had an E46 M3 (2003) new and always liked the series of lights they used, to show progressive warming. If memory serves, you were coached to stay below 4,000 until the first light came on. Unless, of course, you lived in very cold climate and then the advice was to stay below even 4,000 for the first several minutes (remember, it isn't just the crankcase oil but transmission and differential that needs to get some heat in it). When I was with the Olive Garden team in ALMS, we had a very specific warm up process for our 550 Maranello, so there is something to all this. Of course, that was a $1M dollar engine that we did not want to break..........

[T5viggen]

Once the oil temp lifts off the 160 mark is when I'll start to not worry about it (still not taking it to redline yet). My RS4 would limit RPM's until the same temp and I've been using the same oil in the BMW.

[SystemOfUrdaW]

I start my engine, i let heat up for few minutes (3-5)
Then i drive
200 ish F is my target
If i pull, i let my engine heat down before stoping it
B58 i like it and i wanna keep it for a long time😍

[PhizzurpF]

My routine:

•start car
•activate sport mode
•shift in gear
•shifter left
•stay below 3xx rpms until gauge has lifted

Not sure if anyone else has noticed this, but my gauge rarely goes about 205. N26 SULEV btw

[J00PTv]

shouldn't warm up time be different based on the model, I may be incorrect here but I thought the 340i with fog light only had 1 radiator and the m sport models with no fog lights had smaller radiators instead of the fog lights. is that right? I sometimes notice the engine getting cold if I'm cruising slow in the winter, needle just goes back down a bit unless I push it harder. I don't have fog lights on my 340.

[ErkanTR16]

Normal operating temp for the B58 engine is 226 F. My steering wheel shows temperature for Oil and Coolant. Once it reaches 226 that's when i start driving aggressively if need be.

[Blubaron79]

Originally Posted by J00PTv

shouldn't warm up time be different based on the model, I may be incorrect here but I thought the 340i with fog light only had 1 radiator and the m sport models with no fog lights had smaller radiators instead of the fog lights. is that right? I sometimes notice the engine getting cold if I'm cruising slow in the winter, needle just goes back down a bit unless I push it harder. I don't have fog lights on my 340.

That's just an aux oil cooler, and only if you have the 'track handling package.'

That usually deletes the fog lights, and comes with m performance brakes on top of the oil cooler.

[Sparro88]

Without even really thinking about it I've always just taken it steady for the first 10 mins until the temp needle starts to move.

[lawtonlaw]

Originally Posted by jimbobiggens

I get in my car in the morning, push the start button, slam the throttle to the floor and hit reverse, all in one smooth motion. My driveway is just long enough to get enough speed to do a Rockford Files 180 and gracefully over-correct into a tire-smoking drift as I hit the street.

My neighbors hate me.

But I'm never late.

BEST POST OF THE DAY SO FAR..IT :HAD ME LMFAO

[Wgosma]

With internal combustion engine it is known/established that the vast proportion of engine wear occurs during initial startup- unavoidable, nature of the design.

Start car and drive away moderately for a few minutes then you're good to go as far as hitting the higher rev levels.

With modern multi viscosity oils the oil is thinnest and therefore flows best to lube bearings when car needs it most, when motor is cool/cold.

[Eddien123]

If that needle is off the cold mark she's gettin revs...