[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

excellent thread, thanks for detailing all the part numbers and pictures.

I'm still questioning the two black rods that connect to the top part of the car. Someone said their was a bracket you need too ? I have an F22 (m235) anyone here have experience with this car? Also I have groundcontrol camber plates for the M235, so im going to swap them over to the M3/M4 style, as i need the camber plates for the track. Just trying to make this more m235IR style.

Yes this is part 7 on that diagram i think
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=41_2190

I haven?t been able to find the same on the m235iR diagrams, either they?re incomplete of it doesn?t have that piece (unlikely)

I’m not sure you can even get your hands on this part, and if you could it would require to wield it we think.

[Calvin36]

Damn good looking car!

[zipphreak]

Or a strong bonding agent like epoxy. just prep the surface and glue.

i think there are two parts one with holes and one without that welded as the edge pieces from factory.

so I'm not even sure you can put it on without cutting the other piece out first. i had a look at my car and the piece is welded on all sides.

i found the m235ir diagrams i just need to look closer. It didn't have those brackets that i could find. trying to ask someone with bmw...

[Steve_Jr]

If you watched mount support bearing as compared, you can find some difference both 3/4 sereis' and M3/M4's. 3/4 series one has 13mm center hole and M3/M4 one 14mm. It could make unstable damper movement because 3/4 series's damper's screw thread is smaller than M3/M4 one. (12mm screw thread meets 14mm mount support hole)

So, it needs 12mm center hole to make it fit with 12mm damper screw thread. 28.8mm / 12mm / 3T Washer is one of choice to make it correct it's rigidness. Please refer to attached pictures. Thanks !

[zipphreak]

How did you leave your extension rods. Did you just leave them floating then ? Do they bolt to each other and then just sit there ?

I am not using the M4 strut mounts. I am going to have GC modify my current Camber plates for the m235 to have the same bolt pattern as their M3/M4 so i can retrofit the brace ! It is a track car.

[Steve_Jr]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

How did you leave your extension rods. Did you just leave them floating then ? Do they bolt to each other and then just sit there ?

I am not using the M4 strut mounts. I am going to have GC modify my current Camber plates for the m235 to have the same bolt pattern as their M3/M4 so i can retrofit the brace ! It is a track car.

It's depends on the usage of your car ... my extension rods are left on floating ... but for someone who want to get more tightening it .. it could be welded on the bottom of A pillar ... (but demaged to painting .. )

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by Steve_Jr

If you watched mount support bearing as compared, you can find some difference both 3/4 sereis' and M3/M4's. 3/4 series one has 13mm center hole and M3/M4 one 14mm. It could make unstable damper movement because 3/4 series's damper's screw thread is smaller than M3/M4 one. (12mm screw thread meets 14mm mount support hole)

So, it needs 12mm center hole to make it fit with 12mm damper screw thread. 28.8mm / 12mm / 3T Washer is one of choice to make it correct it's rigidness. Please refer to attached pictures. Thanks !

Did you experience instability?
I have not but i’m surprised by this difference, and perhaps a little worried.

By the way do you have the link to the korean forum where this is discussed?

[Steve_Jr]

Originally Posted by Lancelot

Did you experience instability?
I have not but i’m surprised by this difference, and perhaps a little worried.

By the way do you have the link to the korean forum where this is discussed?

I didn't .. but I already had an experience in case of Ohlins suspension with M4 mount support .. it made a twisting noise when steered left and right ... I assumed it came from any relative issue with this hole difference ... Because original damper with M4 mount ... it had been disappeared ...

There 's no severe link around this tuning issue in Korean forum... (I am the only one who tried this tuning .. )

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Steve_Jr

Today the patch on the end of strut side .... it must be bridged between strut and body (a-pillar). Originally this bracket must be welded but .. just inserting it into .. It looks fine (must be tested) at least at the point of tension ...

And someone or many of you might think this is totally useless for 4 series ... or usually recommended to buy M3 or M4 .. but some countrylike south asia ... the price is so high over$200,000 .. (in my country M4 is $100,000) My point is all of tuning is relative in different environment. Or to someone like me, the process itself is enjoyment .. Moreover, my car has E9x body feeling now ...

Anyway, temporal used rubber bushing was removed and new bracket found it's place ...

Will this bracket fit an M235i? since the M3/4 have different angles the way the A pillar goes, im wondering which one i will need.

[zipphreak]

Im just trying to find a closeup picture online of the M4 with these struts mounted to the bracket in this location on the a-pillar to compare to my m235.

Anyone have such a thing ? Has anyone successfully fitted the tops of the extension rod the their car, or everyone skipping this step ?

[zipphreak]

I emailed bmw motorsports about the m235IR and how those struts bolt to the frame, they said their are different brackets.

Picture attached!

[kabrichx]

Originally Posted by Steve_Jr

If you watched mount support bearing as compared, you can find some difference both 3/4 sereis' and M3/M4's. 3/4 series one has 13mm center hole and M3/M4 one 14mm. It could make unstable damper movement because 3/4 series's damper's screw thread is smaller than M3/M4 one. (12mm screw thread meets 14mm mount support hole)

So, it needs 12mm center hole to make it fit with 12mm damper screw thread. 28.8mm / 12mm / 3T Washer is one of choice to make it correct it's rigidness. Please refer to attached pictures. Thanks !

I understand 28.8mm and 12mm, but what is 3T nor can I find what it means via Google. In fact Hardware suppliers are unaware of the spec.

3mm thick????

Thanks

[zipphreak]

FYI for the 10mm blind rivet nut that is installed in the plugged hole on the side frame. It's loose because you need to use a blind rivet nut (rivnut,nutsert) tool to set it.

Fillister head screw M10 (alloy SB - edge) 34Nm 2EA : 07147162464
Blind rivet nut, flat headed 2EA : 51718065070

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

I emailed bmw motorsports about the m235IR and how those struts bolt to the frame, they said their are different brackets.

Picture attached!

Is there something equivalent for the F30?

[Steve_Jr]

Originally Posted by kabrichx

I understand 28.8mm and 12mm, but what is 3T nor can I find what it means via Google. In fact Hardware suppliers are unaware of the spec.

3mm thick????

Thanks

yes .. it means 3 mm ... And additionally, I checked alignment last week after installing washer. front wheel towed out ... equivalently out of permited range ... it means washer affected front wheel alignment...

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by Steve_Jr

yes .. it means 3 mm ... And additionally, I checked alignment last week after installing washer. front wheel towed out ... equivalently out of permited range ... it means washer affected front wheel alignment...

Where did you source these washers?
Wondering if that could be the cause of a noise i started getting recently.

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by Steve_Jr

If you watched mount support bearing as compared, you can find some difference both 3/4 sereis' and M3/M4's. 3/4 series one has 13mm center hole and M3/M4 one 14mm. It could make unstable damper movement because 3/4 series's damper's screw thread is smaller than M3/M4 one. (12mm screw thread meets 14mm mount support hole)

So, it needs 12mm center hole to make it fit with 12mm damper screw thread. 28.8mm / 12mm / 3T Washer is one of choice to make it correct it's rigidness. Please refer to attached pictures. Thanks !

Quick question: on realoem.com the F30 bolt is a M12, the F80 is an M14, so that would indicate 12mm vs. 14mm holes, not 13mm vs. 14mm?

I'll try to find various washers see which could work and if it removes the slight clunking noise I got.

[Lancelot]

So I seem to have managed to fix the noise by retightening the strut bolt to specs (40Nm) - understand that I untightened the nut which had been tightened with an impact wrench and tightened again with a torque wrench properly set to desired torque.

Now that still leaves me with this problem of off-center strut because the hole is slightly too big (see the red mark on the pic showing the gap - about 2mm)

I don't want to use a washer like this because it's going to damage the thread above, but i'm thinking I could use one below/between the strut top and the hat, instead of inside.

[zipphreak]

Get Vorslag or GC camber plates fitted with the M3/M4 mounting points.

I already talked to GC since i have them for track days. They are going to retrofit the mounting points for the M4 brace, but keep the m235(f22) strut hole.

An alternative would be for someone to create a custom machined strut nut that fills that small gap you've discovered. It's not a good idea to run these with any slop, additional noise is one thing, but it can possibly fatigue the strut rod, and potentially break at the strut mount. Not a good scenario on the road or track.

Not sure if this would work, as it does not have a flange. It could potentially slip. Would need a flange on top ideally to keep it in place.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-s...rings/=1a1mbvi

Edit: maybe some thing like this ? http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/mo...od-x-17mm-long
or
http://www.igus.com/product/93

[Lancelot]

Originally Posted by zipphreak

Get Vorslag or GC camber plates fitted with the M3/M4 mounting points.

I already talked to GC since i have them for track days. They are going to retrofit the mounting points for the M4 brace, but keep the m235(f22) strut hole.

An alternative would be for someone to create a custom machined strut nut that fills that small gap you've discovered. It's not a good idea to run these with any slop, additional noise is one thing, but it can possibly fatigue the strut rod, and potentially break at the strut mount. Not a good scenario on the road or track.

Absolutely agree, and thanks to Steve_Jr for having spotted this, i didn't think much of it at first and then it started bothering me for the reason you mention.

Originally Posted by zipphreak

Not sure if this would work, as it does not have a flange. It could potentially slip. Would need a flange on top ideally to keep it in place.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-s...rings/=1a1mbvi

Edit: maybe some thing like this ? http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/mo...od-x-17mm-long
or
http://www.igus.com/product/93

Thanks!! Really helpful.

Been looking for these for hours with no luck... so I ended up making my own 3D model and ordered a 3D-printed plastic version last night as a test before ordering a steel version (would be EUR35 apiece... better get it right!), but this looks more economical and possibly stronger than 3d printed - I'd just need to saw them to make them shorter - which may not be that easy!

I'll wait for the plastic 3d-printed piece to arrive in a couple of weeks, that will give me a reference for dimensions, then decide which route to go.

[zipphreak]

Just validate those dimensions, I was going off the information in the posts previously. I would be interested to see what you come up with though. Keep us updated. This is a great thread, retrofits are never easy.

[Lancelot]

Hi

Some news on that front:
I've ordered both a molded (plastic/polymer black piece) and a 3d printed part (white plastic prototype, 6 EUR for one piece)

The black pastic one broke quickly when trying to fit over my stock dampers.

The white 3d printed one held up but i suspect is a bit too thick, so the metal final version wouldn't be so compliant.

However the great news is the knocking sound is gone, and seems now solid.
Photos of before/after strut hats you can see the white plastic bit under the nut.

i'll make a revised 3d model with slightly thinner walls and perhaps risk ordering in metal directly - stainless steel at 35 EUR a piece when ordering 2, or hesitating with titanium at 41 EUR a piece isn't much more expensive and could be a bit more solid too. Thoughts on that?