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      02-26-2024, 03:47 PM   #45
BaconDouble
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After researching a LOT on BITOG and with Edy on BITOG, I settled on Mobil1 FS 0W-40 Euro Car Formula under the LL01 standard.

For me (tuned street car), there is no need to use a super-exotic oil ($$$) for the B58 when commonly available oils are just as effective. They might not have the "euro/german cache" but do just as well.

Other recommendations:
Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 (LL17FE)
Castrol Edge 5W40 and 5W30 A3 (LL01)
Castrol Edge 0W30 (Amazon)

Here is the link:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...dation.337089/

Last edited by BaconDouble; 02-26-2024 at 03:58 PM..
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      03-06-2024, 06:19 PM   #46
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BaconDouble Appreciate it! I've been going back and forth on Motul and Mobil1. Also, whether to use LL01 VS LL04. Still haven't used the LM Special Tec B FE 0W30. Saw this on YT and thought it was insightful, although they're different oils/weights. I did read some of the B58 thread on BITOG. I'm going to pick up where I left off.

Where are you getting your Mobil1 FS 0W40 from?

Thanks!
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      03-07-2024, 05:55 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n55david View Post
90% of b58 owners aren't making 500+ hp either.. js
thankfully we have years of proof that hp doesn't make a huge difference, and the engines are underrated

Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
I don't know what kind of research you did, but there is no such thing as "clearances being affected by thick oil." If that was the case, your engine would grenade in cold start. The only reason why BMW uses LL01FE (FE=Fuel Efficiency) is CAFE. The same reason is why they use LL12FE, LL14FE, and LL17FE. Same engine is still recommended in many markets to use LL04 or LL01 (depending on sulphur in fuel).
Take this into consideration. Toyota has language in manuals that says: "if higher speeds or heavy duty is experienced, use higher viscosity value." Or better, their engines in some parts of Australia are recommended for 20W50 oils, in coast Australia 5W40, and the US 0W20. You draw conclusion about that.

Whether oil works or not cannot be determined by simple $30 UOA. For that, you need extremely expensive testing, and if you REALLY, REALLY want to know how oils perform, you need to pull out the engine and disassemble it (that is, for example, how oil companies R&D oil). UOA is good for 2 things:
1. As the name indicates, it is Used Oil Analysis, not "Used Engine Analysis." It gives you some data about oil, etc. Nothing more
2. It can give you trends. Let's say if you suspect bearings failure etc. You can follow aluminum, copper, and lead trends.
THAT IS IT! Other than that, you do not know what oil actually is leaving behind etc. If you have a good UOA, doing another one is a waste of money; you won't find out anything.
So, unless you spent several thousand dollars or pulled out an engine and measured wear compared to a control engine, the only thing you are throwing are assumptions or your opinion. Which is absolutely fine, but here I am also, just to give some perspective on that. Now, it would be good if you emphasized that you really like Liqui Moly because it is free. Based on my experience, that oil is not worth the hassle of returning it. Other oils? Yeah. But hey, those oversized Made in Germany letters have some value.
again, i've been doing this for a while. i've posted multiple videos including how to do the lifetime replacement with FCP, so this isn't news for people that watch my videos.

and not sure what you mean by clearances affect oil. i said that thick oils are an issue with engines that have tight clearances designed for thinner oils. that's a fact. thinner oils will flow more quickly during cold start to get to those critical components, also fact. and it will get to operating temp and stay there longer for optimal protection, another fact.

i built my cylinder head last fall and you can see the internals in good condition. Also fact

BMW uses FE oil for the same reason that we have an air to water intercooler and enough radiators to cool down my house. It all works together. That doesn't mean that it doesn't work or it's not safe. Like I said, again, i've been beating on my cars and tracking my cars for years. One makes over 600hp and the other will be over 600hp soon.

When you or anyone else can show the failures caused by running OEM spec oils, we can talk more. Just like when people said our cars need colder spark plugs or smaller spark plug gaps when tuned, or we NEED to upgrade our chargepipe or it'll break, all of the old assumptions aren't true about this platform. At the end of the day, it doesn't make sense to tell someone, who's showing that it works, that it doesn't work.
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      03-08-2024, 11:07 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
The rule of thumb is fallowing:

1. Stock BMW, best is to stick to LL01 or LL04.
2. Stock BMW, some track days, once a month: stick to LL01, preferably oil that also has Porsche A40 approval (XW40 oils) as that approval has track testing (8X1hrs of Nordschelife).
3. High mileage: stick to LL01 and LL04.
4. Tuned: this is where it gets bit complicated. If it is just tuned, LL01 XW40 will do the trick. The higher the HTHS, the better (Motul X-Cess has an HTHS of 3.8, which is good. If you want some serious stuff, HPL Euro or BAS 5W40). If alcohol is used that is tricky. You want oil that is not based on Ester (like Redline, Motul 300V). You want THICK oil! E30, for example, might require XW50. Alcohol likes to shear down oil. So you need some buffer there.
5. SPending a lot of time on track: that is where track/racing oils would be preferable. If no alcohol, Redline, Motul 300V 5W40. If alcohol, HPL BAS 5W40 would be a good choice.
I am tuned and run E30-E40. Currently using Motul 8100 Xcess Gen 2 5W40. I believe this is PAO based vs. Ester based, correct?
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      03-08-2024, 07:44 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prak903 View Post
I am tuned and run E30-E40. Currently using Motul 8100 Xcess Gen 2 5W40. I believe this is PAO based vs. Ester based, correct?
X-Cess is now mostly Group III. Maybe hint of PAO.
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      03-13-2024, 11:50 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaconDouble View Post
After researching a LOT on BITOG and with Edy on BITOG, I settled on Mobil1 FS 0W-40 Euro Car Formula under the LL01 standard.
When I was at the Rolex 24 last year, I saw an opened quart of this in one of the garages; I think it was one of the AMG GT3s. Thought that was interesting, not knowing too much about oil.
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