[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by AccordTR

Still can’t get it to connect to my iPhone... here’s screen shoot of hdmi readout. Does anything look wrong??

All kinds of counterfeit SD Cards out there.

Where and when did you get yours from?

[gbux]

damn, this is freaking cool as hell!

[ssgm1x]

Originally Posted by AccordTR

Still can’t get it to connect to my iPhone... here’s screen shoot of hdmi readout. Does anything look wrong??

Is the green light flashing as well on PI. Green light is Wifi I believe. Also which Raspberry Pi did u buy? Hope u did not buy the B+

[AccordTR]

Originally Posted by ssgm1x

Is the green light flashing as well on PI. Green light is Wifi I believe. Also which Raspberry Pi did u buy? Hope u did not buy the B+

All good. Bad sd card

[wurstrocket]

Ive got a question.

Will bootmod3 work on a raspberry pi 3 with a screen in a small case? I typically prefer not to do stuff on my phone and would like a dedicated box for it.

So my questions would be. Since I havent looked up or even tried a test boot on this software at all.


Does bootmod3 have a GUI? Not on the phone but the pie.

How intuitive is the gui on the pie? The phone looks fairly simply. Im wondering if there are set blocks on the gui where I can swap tunes on the fly?

Im assuming this is like the jb4 where you can pull the tunes and lock it if you need to take it to the dealer for anything correct?

I had something similar to this on my mustang before and really loved being able to see all the stuff going on with the car.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/gtx-t...product_pics-0

Im assuming once again that the bootmod3 if it has a gui shows boost levels and other such things going on within the car?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by wurstrocket

Ive got a question.

Will bootmod3 work on a raspberry pi 3 with a screen in a small case? I typically prefer not to do stuff on my phone and would like a dedicated box for it.

So my questions would be. Since I havent looked up or even tried a test boot on this software at all.


Does bootmod3 have a GUI? Not on the phone but the pie.

How intuitive is the gui on the pie? The phone looks fairly simply. Im wondering if there are set blocks on the gui where I can swap tunes on the fly?

Im assuming this is like the jb4 where you can pull the tunes and lock it if you need to take it to the dealer for anything correct?

I had something similar to this on my mustang before and really loved being able to see all the stuff going on with the car.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/gtx-t...product_pics-0

Im assuming once again that the bootmod3 if it has a gui shows boost levels and other such things going on within the car?

It doesn't have a GUI for the agent. I'm not sure if it gets past the command line and into a desktop but if it does, I suppose you could try using the website from there.

[EVEda235i]

Anyone tried powering the Pi with a 12V outlet? My radar detector's 12v power adapter has a second outlet. Its an ethernet connection. Would rather use this since its empty and i can leave my usb port open.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by garciacarlosernesto

Anyone tried powering the Pi with a 12V outlet? My radar detector's 12v power adapter has a second outlet. Its an ethernet connection. Would rather use this since its empty and i can leave my usb port open.

Yes. I use the one under the dash.

[ratedrkstevo]

Built my WiFi agent today, works a treat! Thanks for the build instructions OP!

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by garciacarlosernesto

Anyone tried powering the Pi with a 12V outlet? My radar detector's 12v power adapter has a second outlet. Its an ethernet connection. Would rather use this since its empty and i can leave my usb port open.

I power mine (as well as a NUC Windows 10 system) off the ODB port.

However it’s not going to be happy with 12V from a cigarette lighter plug or the ODB. You need to step the Voltage down for the raspberry (or up for the NUC).

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

I power mine (as well as a NUC Windows 10 system) off the ODB port.

However it’s not going to be happy with 12V from a cigarette lighter plug or the ODB. You need to step the Voltage down for the raspberry (or up for the NUC).

Why wouldn't it be happy? I've been utilizing mine for a year now with zero issues.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Why wouldn't it be happy? I've been utilizing mine for a year now with zero issues.

Good to know, but I am still not trying it.

Feed most electronic pieces 150% more voltage than they want and they become a door stop, especially those without a good power regulation system which the Pi lacks in its compact size.

I do not intend to risk fate. Not of the $50 Pi, but a resulting fire that could take the car out.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

Good to know, but I am still not trying it.

Feed most electronic pieces 150% more voltage than they want and they become a door stop, especially those without a good power regulation system which the Pi lacks in its compact size.

I do not intend to risk fate. Not of the $50 Pi, but a resulting fire that could take the car out.

Most, if not all, 12v cigarette adapters output 5v, not 12v.

You could also get a power supply shield for the Pi if you're looking to tap the 12v wire.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Most, if not all, 12v cigarette adapters output 5v, not 12v.

Yeah, sure.

There is a reason they are called 12V power sockets and 12V adapters.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

Yeah, sure.

There is a reason they are called 12V power sockets and 12V adapters.

Yes. No one is discounting that. I'm well aware of the socket's varying voltage as well. I simply was saying that you can, in fact, run it from the cigarette socket if you'd like. I've stated in a previous post of my setup utilizing the adapter and running it underneath the radio controls.

[Noelified]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Most, if not all, 12v cigarette adapters output 5v, not 12v.

You could also get a power supply shield for the Pi if you're looking to tap the 12v wire.

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

Yeah, sure.

There is a reason they are called 12V power sockets and 12V adapters.

I think what BunkerJ meant was 12V "sockets" supply 12V to a USB "adapter" that supplies 5V. We need to remember these are nominal numbers to categorize these devices by a Standard. As your documentation points out a properly functioning 12v socket can actually range from 9v to 16v and be called a 12v socket. Thus a 12v categorized device matches up with a 12v categorized supply socket. This is not to say if the voltages are above or below exactly 12v they brick. This is just a standard for us to know what it is safe and intended to match up with. And a 12v adapter that is made to USB standard is designed to take the range of 12v from the socket and supply it's USB outlets with the nominal 5v. That being said, current is the more important factor in damaging electronics than voltage is. Its luring to think voltage damages a device, and it kind of does, but in the end voltage only encourages the current flow which is always what actually causes the damage. Current is the electron flow, and only that flow does the work whether its functioning or damaging work. So simply speaking, all damage in a circuit is caused by current.

In the end we should be safe to assume a 12v rated device, plugged into a 12v rated supply are made to work together, therefore should not be able to overload or overdraw and cause damage. Does it happen yes, by why worry so much especially since these Pi boards are under $30. We're not talking about a $3,000 electronics board. Our car also circuit fuses designed to fail if an improper current is flowing through the line. So IMO it's safest to a cheap 12v device into a protected 12v source. That way if the cheaply made device is out of spec or standard and over or under draws it will simply blow a fuse or fry itself. At least that's my take on the Pi and plugging it in. When I get around to it, I'm tapping a 12v socket into the 12v socket line under the dash center. I'll report back if sparks fly

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Noelified

I think what BunkerJ meant was 12V "sockets" supply 12V to a USB "adapter" that supplies 5V. We need to remember these are nominal numbers to categorize these devices by a Standard. As your documentation points out a properly functioning 12v socket can actually range from 9v to 16v and be called a 12v socket. Thus a 12v categorized device matches up with a 12v categorized supply socket. This is not to say if the voltages are above or below exactly 12v they brick. This is just a standard for us to know what it is safe and intended to match up with. And a 12v adapter that is made to USB standard is designed to take the range of 12v from the socket and supply it's USB outlets with the nominal 5v. That being said, current is the more important factor in damaging electronics than voltage is. Its luring to think voltage damages a device, and it kind of does, but in the end voltage only encourages the current flow which is always what actually causes the damage. Current is the electron flow, and only that flow does the work whether its functioning or damaging work. So simply speaking, all damage in a circuit is caused by current.

In the end we should be safe to assume a 12v rated device, plugged into a 12v rated supply are made to work together, therefore should not be able to overload or overdraw and cause damage. Does it happen yes, by why worry so much especially since these Pi boards are under $30. We're not talking about a $3,000 electronics board. Our car also circuit fuses designed to fail if an improper current is flowing through the line. So IMO it's safest to a cheap 12v device into a protected 12v source. That way if the cheaply made device is out of spec or standard and over or under draws it will simply blow a fuse or fry itself. At least that's my take on the Pi and plugging it in. When I get around to it, I'm tapping a 12v socket into the 12v socket line under the dash center. I'll report back if sparks fly

Precisely. That's my fault for assuming I would be understood.

My current setup is a 12v cigarette socket adapter (the one under the dashboard) that outputs 5v to two (2) USB Micro B cables that run immediately under the radio/A/C controls. One comes out on the opposite side of the trim to charge the tablet while the other stays within the trim and goes to panel below the steering wheel. There I have my Pi plugged into power and also the OBD2 port.

There are boards to convert 12v to 5v that you could slap on top of the Pi as well.

[fondoo1287]

my first BM3 OBD wifi agent I picked up from ebay doesnt work. I picked one up from kiesmotorsport and it works fawlessly. Anyone have trouble with their dashboard not spinning at all? all the datalogs I recorded while driving all remain empty, though I do have the time stamps posted on BM3 online.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Yes. No one is discounting that. I'm well aware of the socket's varying voltage as well. I simply was saying that you can, in fact, run it from the cigarette socket if you'd like. I've stated in a previous post of my setup utilizing the adapter and running it underneath the radio controls.

Originally Posted by Noelified

I think what BunkerJ meant was 12V "sockets" supply 12V to a USB "adapter" that supplies 5V. We need to remember these are nominal numbers to categorize these devices by a Standard. As your documentation points out a properly functioning 12v socket can actually range from 9v to 16v and be called a 12v socket. Thus a 12v categorized device matches up with a 12v categorized supply socket. This is not to say if the voltages are above or below exactly 12v they brick. This is just a standard for us to know what it is safe and intended to match up with. And a 12v adapter that is made to USB standard is designed to take the range of 12v from the socket and supply it's USB outlets with the nominal 5v. That being said, current is the more important factor in damaging electronics than voltage is. Its luring to think voltage damages a device, and it kind of does, but in the end voltage only encourages the current flow which is always what actually causes the damage. Current is the electron flow, and only that flow does the work whether its functioning or damaging work. So simply speaking, all damage in a circuit is caused by current.

In the end we should be safe to assume a 12v rated device, plugged into a 12v rated supply are made to work together, therefore should not be able to overload or overdraw and cause damage. Does it happen yes, by why worry so much especially since these Pi boards are under $30. We're not talking about a $3,000 electronics board. Our car also circuit fuses designed to fail if an improper current is flowing through the line. So IMO it's safest to a cheap 12v device into a protected 12v source. That way if the cheaply made device is out of spec or standard and over or under draws it will simply blow a fuse or fry itself. At least that's my take on the Pi and plugging it in. When I get around to it, I'm tapping a 12v socket into the 12v socket line under the dash center. I'll report back if sparks fly

Look at what I posted and what was responded to.

I stated I ran mine off the ODB which is 12V.

But you cannot power it off 12V with a transformer.

And then BunkerJ stated you could run it off 12V Cigarette lighter, which is false. No mention of step down transformer.

As step down transformer was stated in OP, and he objected to that, only one way to take it, until he was proven wrong.

And quite simply, to state it was fine from cigarette adapter is plan reckless as someone would try and wire it direct and blow out their PI.

So much for assuming.

[JaredG_F30]

Reset adaptations and that should fix your dashboard and logging

Originally Posted by fondoo1287

my first BM3 OBD wifi agent I picked up from ebay doesnt work. I picked one up from kiesmotorsport and it works fawlessly. Anyone have trouble with their dashboard not spinning at all? all the datalogs I recorded while driving all remain empty, though I do have the time stamps posted on BM3 online.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

Look at what I posted and what was responded to.

I stated I ran mine off the ODB which is 12V.

But you cannot power it off 12V with a transformer.

And then BunkerJ stated you could run it off 12V Cigarette lighter, which is false. No mention of step down transformer.

As step down transformer was stated in OP, and he objected to that, only one way to take it, until he was proven wrong.

And quite simply, to state it was fine from cigarette adapter is plan reckless as someone would try and wire it direct and blow out their PI.

So much for assuming.

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Also, I've put together an Amazon list located here: http://a.co/ahypNm2

I've listed a 16GB SDCard. The minimum is 8GB, but I recommend 16GB to give wiggle room for future updates and capabilities (i.e. PTF adding a coding platform to this as well, for coding other things like lights, chime, etc.)

I've listed in all the RP3 Model B, enclosure (You could really buy any, but this is likely tucked away, so who cares about looks), SD Card (mentioned above), ENet Cable (If you need one), and a Micro B cable to power (You very likely have a spare lying around.

For those wondering, there is two ways of tucking this thing away. You can either use the panel under the steering wheel or glovebox OR you can hide it in the center console. I did mine in the panel below the steering wheel, as this was easiest. I ran a USB cable from a car adapter that I plugged into the plug under the glovebox (If you didn't know you had one there, now you do) and ran it through the trim, under the radio, and into the device. I ran the OBDII cable straight up into the area as well. If you want to move the plug completely out of the way, you can unclip the OBDII plug and just push it back up into the panel for a cleaner look. I would like to look into a 90 degree cable as well, for those not wanting to push the OBDII port up into the panel.

It's perfectly okay to curb the narcissism and fallacies. Clearly, there was a misunderstanding and you don't always need to turn the smallest things into these overdramatic issues. If you think the average user's first idea is to actually tap into the 12v with their own wire, you need to bring yourself back to reality. When someone asks if you can power it via the cigarette lighter, I'd garner to say that majority of them are, too, referencing a cigarette lighter adapter. I've also stated several times throughout this thread that I've powered mine with the car adapter.

Let's quit the banter and move on. No need to clog up a perfectly good thread with this nonsense.

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Most, if not all, 12v cigarette adapters output 5v, not 12v.

You could also get a power supply shield for the Pi if you're looking to tap the 12v wire.

If we are to accept what you claim you now mean, ALL cigarette lighters with a USB plug in adapter output 5V.

And then there is the 2nd line that one COULD use a device between the 12V and Pi.

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

It's perfectly okay to curb the narcissism and fallacies. Clearly, there was a misunderstanding and you don't always need to turn the smallest things into these overdramatic issues. If you think the average user's first idea is to actually tap into the 12v with their own wire, you need to bring yourself back to reality. When someone asks if you can power it via the cigarette lighter, I'd garner to say that majority of them are, too, referencing a cigarette lighter adapter. I've also stated several times throughout this thread that I've powered mine with the car adapter.

Let's quit the banter and move on. No need to clog up a perfectly good thread with this nonsense.

I’m sure you NOW want to move on, especially as you try to twist your version of what you posted. But don’t try to change the meaning of your posts, that the words and structure doesn’t agree with.