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      12-14-2018, 05:59 PM   #1
madmedman
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Dash cam hardwiring help

Hi there. I know there have been numerous threads around this topic but for the last few days, I am pulling my hair out. I can't seem to get the Blackvue 750s 2ch to stay on after a few mins. It enters parking more but then shuts down without warning.

I have double checked the acc and live fuses with the circuit tester. Have connected the ground properly.

I am not sure what is it that I'm doing wrong. Can anyone advise please. Please see the pic below.
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      12-14-2018, 06:45 PM   #2
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Wire the positive direct to the battery with an inline fuse. Negative goes to any bare bolt or contact point. ACC goes to 153 boot light, or 161 headlights. (For some reason I have a note that 143 is a possibility - I can check what I have for certain tomorrow)

Some fuses shut down after certain periods of time. You can’t check with an AVO with the car “alive”.
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      12-14-2018, 07:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alice Coupe View Post
Wire the positive direct to the battery with an inline fuse. Negative goes to any bare bolt or contact point. ACC goes to 153 boot light, or 161 headlights. (For some reason I have a note that 143 is a possibility - I can check what I have for certain tomorrow)

Some fuses shut down after certain periods of time. You can’t check with an AVO with the car “alive”.
Thanks. I guess my battery+ is at 161 fuse. I checked this after I left the boot open for an hour and still the fuse was alive. The camera was off though, as was the PMP replacement I have. I will try the direct battery connection tomorrow with an inline fuse. The ground is already connected to the -ive terminal on the battery.

Will try your suggestions first thing in the morning. Thanks.
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      12-15-2018, 02:41 AM   #4
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this is where I've hard wired to
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      12-15-2018, 04:09 AM   #5
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These are the fuses I used
Also is you pmp cut off set too low
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      12-15-2018, 04:25 AM   #6
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Also does that voltage display go off after a while as that'll be using unnecessary power.
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      12-15-2018, 06:28 AM   #7
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Confirmed mine is at 153 boot light and direct to battery. PMP set to 12v
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      12-15-2018, 07:09 AM   #8
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See post #3 here...

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1500235
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      12-15-2018, 08:49 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris-c View Post
this is where I've hard wired to
Thanks. I have used the same connections but there is something I am doing wrong I guess. I need to get into the boot again and have a look.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris-c View Post
Also does that voltage display go off after a while as that'll be using unnecessary power.
I use the vico power plus and the lcd is off, in fact its unresponsive after the dash cam turns off. But the 161 fuse that I have hardwired the batt + to remains live as I checked with a circuit tester.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SW6Steve View Post

These are the fuses I used
Also is you pmp cut off set too low
Thanks. I used the exact same as well. The guy in the video has the 161 add a fuse connection the other way around. I wonder if that's my issue?
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Originally Posted by ByTheSea View Post
Thanks. Thats very helpful. I will be fiddling with the wiring again. The weather is horrible thought
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      12-15-2018, 08:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alice Coupe View Post
Confirmed mine is at 153 boot light and direct to battery. PMP set to 12v
Thats what I have connected the acc to at present. Just bought a bunch of connectors from Halfords and will be on the job in a sec. Hope this is sorted. I am almost pulling the trigger on the Cellink Neo 9. The only thing that makes me reconsider this is that I drive a max of 20mins to work and takes me the same time to return home.
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      12-15-2018, 09:51 AM   #11
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I used 119 after much faffing around with various fuses. I spent most of a day checking which fuse to use.
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      12-15-2018, 12:12 PM   #12
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Ok. So it wouldn’t stay in parking mode despite connected directly to the battery. Maybe I should go back to the drawing board?
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      12-15-2018, 12:20 PM   #13
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If you've got a switched unit that senses when the car is powered you can use 119 as a permanent live and then one of the many many other switched lives. Hell, use the cigarette lighter fuse for switched live. You'd end up with 10mins overrun of normal then onto parking
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      12-15-2018, 12:33 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris-c View Post
If you've got a switched unit that senses when the car is powered you can use 119 as a permanent live and then one of the many many other switched lives. Hell, use the cigarette lighter fuse for switched live. You'd end up with 10mins overrun of normal then onto parking
There is no fuse in 119. Can I still use that?
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      12-15-2018, 01:09 PM   #15
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So I finally managed to get this sorted. This is quite embarrassing though. I had completely forgotten about the parking mode switch.
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      12-15-2018, 08:19 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmedman View Post
So I finally managed to get this sorted. This is quite embarrassing though. I had completely forgotten about the parking mode switch.
Which fuses did you use?
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      12-20-2018, 12:37 PM   #17
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Word of warning on this. I ran the wiring for my dash cam today but I decided to go down the passenger side for various reasons; this involved removing the side panel on the dash with the airbag switch on it and in the process I somehow triggered a fault code. Re-setting the airbag light wasn't easy but i got there in the end. My advice - don't go down the passenger side to do this job.
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      12-20-2018, 12:39 PM   #18
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I ran if down the passenger side... but the only panel i needed to remove was the interior door sill + pull out bits of the rubber strip.

I ran the wire under the rubber strip and it cant be seen.
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      12-20-2018, 02:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquazi View Post
I ran if down the passenger side... but the only panel i needed to remove was the interior door sill + pull out bits of the rubber strip.

I ran the wire under the rubber strip and it cant be seen.
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      12-20-2018, 02:49 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquazi View Post
I ran if down the passenger side... but the only panel i needed to remove was the interior door sill + pull out bits of the rubber strip.

I ran the wire under the rubber strip and it cant be seen.
Yeah, I would have done that too but the hardware kit with my camera wasn't long enough to reach the back. In the end I used the kit to get to behind the dash where I picked up the ground connection which meant I could use some speaker wire to get the rest of the way since I only needed two wires from that point.
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