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      12-13-2018, 12:41 PM   #67
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Well would you believe it, (I'm sure Alice Coupe will), took the motor to BMW Yeovil today expecting an argument and they agreed to replace three of my wheels as they show signs of corrosion, albeit quite small. So booked in for January and have cancelled the wheel repairs as they are being replaced. Jeez hope this isn't the first of many wheel replacements!
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      12-15-2018, 08:42 AM   #68
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I just did a very quick job on a badly kerbed wheel (damage went around about 1/3 of the rim).

Car's going back in a few weeks so really wasn't bothered about it looking perfect, just medium grade sand paper, didn't bother with wet & dry paper or metal polish, just cleaned with IPA and did 3 coats of lacquer.

Before:
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      12-15-2018, 08:43 AM   #69
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After, from a couple of feet away you can't even notice it:
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      12-16-2018, 09:12 AM   #70
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Looks really good, just shows what you can do with some sanding and a bit of patience. How long did it take to do each wheel?
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      12-17-2018, 10:32 AM   #71
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Is there any further work to do after coating in lacquer to get the final finish? Is it essential to take the wheel off to do it?
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      12-17-2018, 10:43 AM   #72
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Is there any further work to do after coating in lacquer to get the final finish? Is it essential to take the wheel off to do it?
Depends how much of a perfectionist you are. If you lay the wheel flat you can get quite thick coats of lacquer on without it running which will leaves a glossy finish. Thinner coats end up being more matte due to the thousands of tiny blobs of lacquer, which would then need wet sanding and compounding to get a high gloss finish.
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      12-17-2018, 11:31 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teaston View Post
Depends how much of a perfectionist you are. If you lay the wheel flat you can get quite thick coats of lacquer on without it running which will leaves a glossy finish. Thinner coats end up being more matte due to the thousands of tiny blobs of lacquer, which would then need wet sanding and compounding to get a high gloss finish.
Thanks. I don’t have a jack to hand at home so I might see what results I can get while the wheel is still on and see if I’m happy with it. If not I will consider getting the wheel off and having another go. I’ve done my first round of sanding with coarse paper so will try fine and then polish and lacquer tomorrow. Cheers for your help!
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      12-17-2018, 02:57 PM   #74
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It was only a matter of time... around 1/4 of the wheel coming down a multi storey car park!

I take it doesn’t matter if I wait it out till more warmer days in the summer then give this a shot? I have some Halfords body shop lacquer and some sanding paper somewhere around the loft..
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      12-17-2018, 04:15 PM   #75
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Quote:
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It was only a matter of time... around 1/4 of the wheel coming down a multi storey car park!

I take it doesn’t matter if I wait it out till more warmer days in the summer then give this a shot? I have some Halfords body shop lacquer and some sanding paper somewhere around the loft..
If the damage goes through to the metal then moisture can creep underneath and cause white worm, especially in winter with the damp conditions and road salt.
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      12-17-2018, 04:20 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTE View Post
It was only a matter of time... around 1/4 of the wheel coming down a multi storey car park!

I take it doesn’t matter if I wait it out till more warmer days in the summer then give this a shot? I have some Halfords body shop lacquer and some sanding paper somewhere around the loft..
I’d leave it - same advice as I gave fuzzybunny. When they corrode, you give a 20% contribution to BMW and get a new, warranted, wheel. It cheaper than a refurb.
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      12-17-2018, 04:31 PM   #77
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I’d leave it - same advice as I gave fuzzybunny. When they corrode, you give a 20% contribution to BMW and get a new, warranted, wheel. It cheaper than a refurb.
Or repair the kerb damage and then when the centre corrodes pay nothing towards a replacement wheel under warranty!
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      12-17-2018, 04:44 PM   #78
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If the damage goes through to the metal then moisture can creep underneath and cause white worm, especially in winter with the damp conditions and road salt.
I’ll get a pic, I couldn’t judge how deep it was earlier (dark) but it doesn’t seem deep, just a largish proportion of the wheel.

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Originally Posted by Alice Coupe View Post
I’d leave it - same advice as I gave fuzzybunny. When they corrode, you give a 20% contribution to BMW and get a new, warranted, wheel. It cheaper than a refurb.
If it’s bound to happen I’ll wait, any way to speed this process up?

Jesting aside, is this across all 442 style alloys? I believe mine are ferric grey if that even counts for anything. I’ll need to inspect centre of the alloys too to see if anything already exists.
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      12-17-2018, 05:49 PM   #79
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Quote:
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Or repair the kerb damage and then when the centre corrodes pay nothing towards a replacement wheel under warranty!
Need to be careful there, some threads on this forum have found that dealers say your wheel warranty is invalidated if they find you have had a wheel repaired and deliberately check the wheel over to looks for any tell tale signs. I imagine that must vary from dealer to dealer.
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      12-17-2018, 05:50 PM   #80
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Quote:
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Or repair the kerb damage and then when the centre corrodes pay nothing towards a replacement wheel under warranty!
Doesn’t always work like that. If the wheel has been refurbished (repaired) they may not replace under warranty.

In addition, you don’t get warranty on warranty so if you car is 2 years and 360 days old, a replaced wheel will get 4 days warranty. However, if you contributed to it, you’ll get 1 year.


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I’ll get a pic, I couldn’t judge how deep it was earlier (dark) but it doesn’t seem deep, just a largish proportion of the wheel.



If it’s bound to happen I’ll wait, any way to speed this process up?

Jesting aside, is this across all 442 style alloys? I believe mine are ferric grey if that even counts for anything. I’ll need to inspect centre of the alloys too to see if anything already exists.
My experience is it’s any diamond cut alloy. Look closely, you only need a tiny bit of corrosion to count.
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      12-17-2018, 05:52 PM   #81
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Quote:
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Need to be careful there, some threads on this forum have found that dealers say your wheel warranty is invalidated if they find you have had a wheel repaired and deliberately check the wheel over to looks for any tell tale signs. I imagine that must vary from dealer to dealer.
I’m pretty sure that’s just if you have had the wheel refurbished, i.e. re-diamond cut.
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      12-18-2018, 03:42 AM   #82
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Quote:
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My experience is it’s any diamond cut alloy. Look closely, you only need a tiny bit of corrosion to count.
Yes this one is being replaced because of the small mark on the left of centre.
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      12-18-2018, 04:14 AM   #83
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The old mantra of ‘you learn something new everyday’

I recall checking up the alloys at the time of purchase because 18”+ alloys weren’t new to me, diamond cut however were. Ran my fingers across the edges to check for any poor repairs etc. Didn’t find anything to suggest this. I did notice small particles around the centre but assumed those were just from a recent drive after it had been washed.

Anyway, here’s the wheel in its current state. Centre of both rear wheels, the worse being the ‘kerbed’ wheel which is annoying as they may use that as an excuse, despite it only happening yesterday. Unfortunately a snap of the wheel I have from a day after handover only covers a front wheel.



Rear OS



Kerbed wheel, rear NS.



NB: Reading into similar situations, the vehicle is 4 years old. Seemed to think it was older for some reason.. however it’s beyond the 3 years/50k warranty, so this may be another factor.
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      12-18-2018, 06:36 AM   #84
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Ok. I’m at the stage where I have done all the sanding including 3000 grit wet and it’s looking pretty good. The only damage you can see now is right round the edge between the wheel and the tire and it’s not really that noticeable so a vast improvement! I do however have the issue where the sanded parts of the wheel are a very different colour to the non sanded parts, especially where I have only part sanded through the lacquer (a milky colour). Does this problem disappear once you apply metal polish and lacquer? Or should I do more at this stage to fix this?
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      12-18-2018, 07:09 AM   #85
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Quote:
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Ok. I’m at the stage where I have done all the sanding including 3000 grit wet and it’s looking pretty good. The only damage you can see now is right round the edge between the wheel and the tire and it’s not really that noticeable so a vast improvement! I do however have the issue where the sanded parts of the wheel are a very different colour to the non sanded parts, especially where I have only part sanded through the lacquer (a milky colour). Does this problem disappear once you apply metal polish and lacquer? Or should I do more at this stage to fix this?
Yes the lacquer will change the colour as it introduces reflections back to the surface. It will always look different if you stare closely at the wheel, but of course you don’t do that in daily life so it really won’t be noticed, especially by people who don’t know about the repair.
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      12-18-2018, 09:42 AM   #86
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Quote:
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Yes the lacquer will change the colour as it introduces reflections back to the surface. It will always look different if you stare closely at the wheel, but of course you don’t do that in daily life so it really won’t be noticed, especially by people who don’t know about the repair.
Great, thanks. In fact the metal polish vastly improved the milky colouration. You can now only just about distinguish between bare metal and lacquered surface, but only if you look very closely. Very impressed with the results so far. Will lacquer tomorrow and hope it doesn’t run. Thanks again!
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      12-18-2018, 10:46 AM   #87
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Multiple thin coats, starting with a misting coat, finishing with a final somewhat heavier coat to form a glossy surface usually works well when spray painting.
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      12-18-2018, 12:17 PM   #88
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Will the wheel need balancing afterwards? I’d say I’ve sanded down between 1 and 2mm on the worst parts, just on the rim.
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