[NukinFutz]

Can someone point me in the direction of the common problems of the F30 335i x-drive thread. I have a car in my sights and want to make sure I know what I am getting into. I have had an E46 M, E92 M & F80. I work E46 Ms often (rod bearings, sub frame reinforcement, vanos and so on) so i know my way around a shop but I don't know much about the N55 or F30 Chassis.

Looking for issues at mileage above 50K as well as basic things to be wary of.

Also what problems come about when you start to increase the power to about 400 whp

The car I am looking at:
2014
335i x-drive
~55K miles
8-speed
M-sport
No accidents
Well maintained by local BMW dealer

Thanks!!

[Korvo]

You won't regret purchasing that vehicle....with a few mods.

The factory charge pipe on these is garbage and can blow under stock pressure. Pushing 400HP will require a metal one. I recommend Evolution Racewerks. There are tons of examples of this issue on google if you search "N55 charge pipe failure".

The N55 is a great engine, it's just not surrounded by the best parts. I installed a chargepipe ($400), intercooler ($350), and sport tune ($300). It transformed the car.

Common complaints of the F30 are a lack of steering tightness, poor suspension feel, and creaking noises. I never noticed the lack of steering tightness, but I came from a Honda accord. It still feels wonderful to me. It creaks a little here and there, but it does not bother me and I'm OCD AF.

The best way to describe the suspension is "floaty". In comfort mode, it tends to feel like a Buick and most people don't appreciate that. I certainly don't like the feeling. Going over a bump almost feels like the rear is going to break free. It feels like a car with blown rear strut looks...if that makes sense. Switching to sport mode eliminates this completely. Dinan makes a suspension ECU tune for the adaptive suspension ($300 installed) that apparently transforms the feeling in all modes. This will be one of my next mods.

If you plan on tracking the car or live in a hot climate, make sure it has the factory oil cooler. Some do, some don't. People have found that, if tracking the car, an oil cooler is necessary.

Bottom line, it's a great car, but the adaptive suspension is a must...

[Al Bundy's Dodge]

The car is worth it for the N55 alone. replace chargepipe as preventative maintenance and enjoy the hell out of that car.

I would agree that addressing the suspension either through adaptive or aftermarket coilovers is a must. I went adaptive and I still find it lacking. Much better than non adaptive, but still not where I want it to be. The Dinan suspension tune mentioned above failed on my car so it may not work for you either.

[Korvo]

Originally Posted by Al Bundy's Dodge

The car is worth it for the N55 alone. replace chargepipe as preventative maintenance and enjoy the hell out of that car.

I would agree that addressing the suspension either through adaptive or aftermarket coilovers is a must. I went adaptive and I still find it lacking. Much better than non adaptive, but still not where I want it to be. The Dinan suspension tune mentioned above failed on my car so it may not work for you either.

Was it just not accepted by the computer? How does that happen?

[TK335iMSPT]

Just to state prior to this, I have the absolute worst luck with cars. I currently have 31,000 miles on the odometer.

Things I've replaced under warranty so far-

Electronic waste gate (came up as drive train fault, no other symptoms. It was found by the dealer) around 23k miles

Transmission seal (visible leaks from trans. Was 1qt low at the time of repair)around 23k miles

Rear seatbelt buckle (would not buckle the seatbelt) around 25k miles

Rubber trim on driver door (was ripping apart) 25k miles

Middle air vents (one side was stuck down, dealer replaced whole thing) 19k miles

Creaking door sills (dealer put clear tap around the door seals) 19k miles

I am about to bring it in for service again. I have a feeling there is a drive train or throttle control issue. When accelerating moderately, I have a very quick loss of power before the shift and a buck into the next gear 1-3 gears. When decelerating, the car has begun to kick very hard. I have attempted to reset the throttle adaptation and it helped but did not clear the problem. NOTE: I do not track the car, I have never launched the car, but there are times I have had spirited driving. All in all, this car is fantastic and I continue to love it.

[Korvo]

Originally Posted by TK335iMSPT

Just to state prior to this, I have the absolute worst luck with cars. I currently have 31,000 miles on the odometer.

Things I've replaced under warranty so far-

Electronic waste gate (came up as drive train fault, no other symptoms. It was found by the dealer) around 23k miles

Transmission seal (visible leaks from trans. Was 1qt low at the time of repair)around 23k miles

Rear seatbelt buckle (would not buckle the seatbelt) around 25k miles

Rubber trim on driver door (was ripping apart) 25k miles

Middle air vents (one side was stuck down, dealer replaced whole thing) 19k miles

Creaking door sills (dealer put clear tap around the door seals) 19k miles

I am about to bring it in for service again. I have a feeling there is a drive train or throttle control issue. When accelerating moderately, I have a very quick loss of power before the shift and a buck into the next gear 1-3 gears. When decelerating, the car has begun to kick very hard. I have attempted to reset the throttle adaptation and it helped but did not clear the problem. NOTE: I do not track the car, I have never launched the car, but there are times I have had spirited driving. All in all, this car is fantastic and I continue to love it.

Spirited driving shouldn't be a factor, so don't worry about driving it hard! You should be able to drive it hard and not have that issue. Sorry about your luck with it

[M2Rush]

Originally Posted by NukinFutz

Can someone point me in the direction of the common problems of the F30 335i x-drive thread. I have a car in my sights and want to make sure I know what I am getting into. I have had an E46 M, E92 M & F80. I work E46 Ms often (rod bearings, sub frame reinforcement, vanos and so on) so i know my way around a shop but I don't know much about the N55 or F30 Chassis.

Looking for issues at mileage above 50K as well as basic things to be wary of.

Also what problems come about when you start to increase the power to about 400 whp

The car I am looking at:
2014
335i x-drive
~55K miles
8-speed
M-sport
No accidents
Well maintained by local BMW dealer

Thanks!!

At that mileage check:
Steering Wheel/Column Knock
Oil Filter Housing Gasket Leak
Belt tensioner jiggle
Condition of drive belt, mines were frayed
Cracked Stereo Preset Buttons
Transfer Case - You will feel it kind of hop when you turn a corner at higher speeds or acceleration.
Inner Door seal wear and may have a hole on both the passenger and driver sides, around latch location. From my research once torn, they'll no longer seal the door.

HPFP known to go and leave you stranded - Don't know how you would even check...
Charge Pipe also known to go and leave you stranded - Just upgrade to a metal one.

@ 45k both my rear spring pads/bushing were making extremely loud creaking noise and had to be replaced under warranty as well as front strut leaking, also replaced under warranty.

[Al Bundy's Dodge]

Originally Posted by pdegene

Was it just not accepted by the computer? How does that happen?

Pretty much...the car threw a chassis stabilization code after installation. Basically had to reset everything by reinstalling BMW software. Called another Dinan dealer after that and they told me the last 6 cars they tried failed too. So I never bothered trying again.

[Korvo]

Man that's unfortunate. I hope I don't experience this when I go in!

[cfm56d7b]

I also recommend replacing the charge pipe. Evolution Racewerks is one of the better alternatives.

[NukinFutz]

Literally just blew it yesterday. Already ordered one. If anyone has one for sale I'm ready to buy

[34dean]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

I also recommend replacing the charge pipe. Evolution Racewerks is one of the better alternatives.

As a newb, what does the charge pipe do and will replacing it void anything on my CPO/Maint. plans?

[Moupe]

From my understanding, a lot of issues and complaints were addressed in the LCI refresh models. Definitely go LCI when possible, another reason why I don't like buying initial releases of a new model.

[Korvo]

Originally Posted by 34dean

As a newb, what does the charge pipe do and will replacing it void anything on my CPO/Maint. plans?

The charge pipe carries compressed air from the intercooler to the engine. It will probably void a warranty, but everything does nowadays. It's a necessary upgrade and known to be a problematic part. I don't think anyone has ever had an issue that a charge pipe caused.

I recommend ER as the brand of CP.

[FastF30]

bolt-ons do not void warranty what so ever... My bolt-ons were installed at the BMW dealership... CP and FMIC...

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Originally Posted by FastF30

bolt-ons do not void warranty what so ever... My bolt-ons were installed at the BMW dealership... CP and FMIC...

Same here.