[anotheran]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

So Dinan is cheating on you.

Dinan doesn’t cover bmw parts with the sports tune

[cgarner40]

Originally Posted by JohnyLaw

m235i with 25,000 miles. Charge pipe blew on the way back from the beach, 97 degrees outside, 3 hour drive, in traffic the entire ride.

Dinan Sport Tuner had been on the car. Dealership referred car to BMW NA engineer, who looked at computer data without even seeing the broken part, and flagged the car resulting in BMW NA refusing to repair car under warranty because of Dinan chip. Dinan refusing to pay for BMW part because of part being prone to failure. Any suggestions?

You will eventually run into the same problem anyway if you have BMW put a stock CP back on. It's a plastic piece of junk that cannot handle the added boost. And I think they charge like $700-$800 for it OEM, so no thank you. I bought an Evolution Raceworks CP for a fraction of that, installed it myself and no problems. Should've replaced the charge pipe when I did my tune in the first place (like they recommend doing). Not worth the aggravation of blowing it up some day. There are some tricks to installing it without having to remove half of the stuff in the directions. Unfortunately you must have patience though, to get it in just right.

[rob.james.arias]

It appears that BMW updated the stock part. My charge pipe gave out at 55k miles on a completely stock set up. What is interesting is the replacement appears to be "beefed up" on the end that connects to the throttle body. In the image you can see on the left the old design, and on the right, on my vehicle it appears to be reinforced by about an additional 1/2" of plastic lip. Not that I think it will make a big difference in the long run I found it interesting that after all this time they seem to have updated the design.
[IMG][/IMG]

[chinniciF32]

Interesting that they reinforced it that way, also wondering why they even bothered the N55 hasn't been in production for almost 4/5 years?(at least on the f3X's)

I ran my 15 f32 on mhd stage 1 for a while and no issues with CP(had about 62k on it) but replaced it with FTP's CP and im now running stage 2, about to go 2+ today since im getting the DP installed now as I type.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by rob.james.arias

It appears that BMW updated the stock part. My charge pipe gave out at 55k miles on a completely stock set up. What is interesting is the replacement appears to be "beefed up" on the end that connects to the throttle body. In the image you can see on the left the old design, and on the right, on my vehicle it appears to be reinforced by about an additional 1/2" of plastic lip. Not that I think it will make a big difference in the long run I found it interesting that after all this time they seem to have updated the design.
[IMG][/IMG]

Son of a bitch! That's a huge find and amazing that NO ONE has ever posted this. They've totally addressed the failure point of the charge pipe. I would have bought this revised charge pipe instead of my FTP charge pipe. The FTP CP fits awesome but all aftermarket CPs are metal and they heat soak much worse than the stock plastic CP.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

Son of a bitch! That's a huge find and amazing that NO ONE has ever posted this. They've totally addressed the failure point of the charge pipe. I would have bought this revised charge pipe instead of my FTP charge pipe. The FTP CP fits awesome but all aftermarket CPs are metal and they heat soak much worse than the stock plastic CP.

Now we just need to see 15-25 psi (latter condition from a throttle closure for example) pushed through the new design for 50k miles of heat cycles to see if it holds up

Also, there was a bunch of testing done a while back, i think maybe not on F30 forum specifically, that showed there was basically no impact on IATs from the switch to a metal CP. Indeed the metal does conduct heat a bit better than the plastic, but it has a negligible impact on IATs when it matters (e.g., in boost when you are flowing a lot of air). There was also testing on heat wrapping the CPs specifically to try and prevent claimed heat soak and it basically made no difference at all in IATs. I did a bunch of research on this because i had the same concern before i originally bought my CP, and i was actually considering using the gold foil wrap or exhaust wrap for example. There's worse things to worry about than your metal CP getting hot under the hood

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Now we just need to see 15-25 psi (latter condition from a throttle closure for example) pushed through the new design for 50k miles of heat cycles to see if it holds up

Also, there was a bunch of testing done a while back, i think maybe not on F30 forum specifically, that showed there was basically no impact on IATs from the switch to a metal CP. Indeed the metal does conduct heat a bit better than the plastic, but it has a negligible impact on IATs when it matters (e.g., in boost when you are flowing a lot of air). There was also testing on heat wrapping the CPs specifically to try and prevent claimed heat soak and it basically made no difference at all in IATs. I did a bunch of research on this because i had the same concern before i originally bought my CP, and i was actually considering using the gold foil wrap or exhaust wrap for example. There's worse things to worry about than your metal CP getting hot under the hood

A majority of N55s are pushing well below 20 psi.

Under steady cruise and/or full throttle the elevated IATs of a metal charge pipe is a moot point because the turbo is cramming hot air into the motor. However, when sitting in traffic and slow speeds, the metal charge certainly results in elevated IATs. I've datalogged before and afters and the metal CP results in 10-15+ degree increased IATs during slow driving and traffic lights. These elevated IATs on a warmer/hot day can impact throttle response and power delivery (i.e., reduced timing control/boost, more lag). There's good reason why automakers make intakes, CPs, and intake manifolds out of plastic and rubber. Temp control. Aftermarket vendors would do the same if plastic forming wasn't so expensive.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by XutvJet

A majority of N55s are pushing well below 20 psi.

Under steady cruise and/or full throttle the elevated IATs of a metal charge pipe is a moot point because the turbo is cramming hot air into the motor. However, when sitting in traffic and slow speeds, the metal charge certainly results in elevated IATs. I've datalogged before and afters and the metal CP results in 10-15+ degree increased IATs during slow driving and traffic lights. These elevated IATs on a warmer/hot day can impact throttle response and power delivery (i.e., reduced timing control/boost, more lag). There's good reason why automakers make intakes, CPs, and intake manifolds out of plastic and rubber. Temp control. Aftermarket vendors would do the same if plastic forming wasn't so expensive.

Yeah, that's why i noted the upper bound of the range i gave is more likely something that would happen from a throttle closure (usually a big boost spike, especially if its a throttle closure due to oveboost to begin with). That's something would could blow a BP, rather than the build in "actual" boost.

In terms of the IATs, that's basically exactly what i was saying regarding it having a negligible impact at cruise or WOT driving. As for the 2nd point, yes IATs definitely rise in the traffic/slow speed situation (i do a lot of datalogging and monitoring before/after every mod as well), and arguably more so with the metal CP than plastic, but I am not really sure that's going to impact throttle response or power delivery. By the time you are making full boost the IATs will have quickly dropped back down to the actual temperature of the air coming in. There isnt really a lot of thermal inertia here. I think it takes maybe 1-2 seconds before the IATs to drop from the "heat soaked" value to the actual air temp. This is what i have seen in logs where i might be sitting at a light for example, then turn, stop, and start the pull (like a 1-4th pull). So i suppose maybe if your IATs were high, like 130F+ when you start the pull, timing might be pulled a little before the IATs get a chance to drop down to actual air temp.

[Pittcrew]

Boom, there it is.....accelerating onto the highway, maybe 1/3 throttle .

[bdragon46]

Originally Posted by Pittcrew

Boom, there it is.....accelerating onto the highway, maybe 1/3 throttle .

At least you still have the clip

[TheShadow]

5 of these threads get posted a day, I don't get why people are still surprised when it happens? Just get a aftermarket, before you drive the car. Most people who've browsed this forum know that's the first issue that needs addressing even before buying the vehicle.

[Pittcrew]

Originally Posted by TheShadow

5 of these threads get posted a day, I don't get why people are still surprised when it happens? Just get a aftermarket, before you drive the car. Most people who've browsed this forum know that's the first issue that needs addressing even before buying the vehicle.

I don't remember saying I was surprised. Thanks for your useless 2 cents tho.

[Fl_Rza_99]

My charge pipe blew on a stock setup last week. Ordered the VRSF pipe and had a shop do the install. Got my car back yesterday and after about 30 minutes of driving my check engine light came on. Took it to the shop this morning and they said it was sensor related and reset the code then told me to bring it back to the them if the light comes back on. The light is back on now. Can anybody give me any idea what may be happening? The guy at the shop said he may need to do a smoke test or replace the sensor altogether.

[davidr3]

Originally Posted by Fl_Rza_99

My charge pipe blew on a stock setup last week. Ordered the VRSF pipe and had a shop do the install. Got my car back yesterday and after about 30 minutes of driving my check engine light came on. Took it to the shop this morning and they said it was sensor related and reset the code then told me to bring it back to the them if the light comes back on. The light is back on now. Can anybody give me any idea what may be happening? The guy at the shop said he may need to do a smoke test or replace the sensor altogether.

Any other symptoms? Either your MAP sensor broke when your chargepipe gave out or there's a boost leak. if you have no lack of power/limp mode then it's probably the sensor that broke.

[Fl_Rza_99]

Originally Posted by davidr3

Any other symptoms? Either your MAP sensor broke when your chargepipe gave out or there's a boost leak. if you have no lack of power/limp mode then it's probably the sensor that broke.

Thanks for the info! The car drives normal no lack of power at all. I was told that they would have to buy a OEM charge pipe to get the sensor since they don't sell it separately.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Fl_Rza_99

Thanks for the info! The car drives normal no lack of power at all. I was told that they would have to buy a OEM charge pipe to get the sensor since they don't sell it separately.

It possible the sensor was damaged when the CP blew, or the shop damaged the sensor on install, or you have a boost leak and the sensor is throwing the code for that reason. We need to know the code to have any lead at all.

Also, you absolutely should be able to buy the sensor separately... Buy it yourself if you have to, it is super easy to install and does not require removing any parts.

[davidr3]

Originally Posted by Fl_Rza_99

Thanks for the info! The car drives normal no lack of power at all. I was told that they would have to buy a OEM charge pipe to get the sensor since they don't sell it separately.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...8aAt0qEALw_wcB

Here's the MAP sensor, you don't need to buy the CP to get a MAP sensor. I plugged in your vehicle info listed to confirm fitment granted that it's the 15' 435 coupe

[Fl_Rza_99]

I'll be taking it to the shop again and if the sensor needs to be replaced I'll make sure to purchase the one linked above. Really appreciate the feedback. Thanks

[Leitht]

A shout out for the CTS Turbo chargepipe. I just installed one on my 2015 435 convertible. It went in without having to touch the intercooler, and the convertible cross brace would have been a lot more work. The removal of the original plastic pipe was worst part.

Once the original pipe was removed, I installed the lower pipe onto the intercooler. After installing the connector sleeve onto the upper pipe, I slipped the upper pipe into place. After locking the upper pipe onto the throttle body, I tightened the clamps on the connect sleeve. There were no interference issues and everything fit perfectly.

The chargepipe came with new O-rings and new retaining clips.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Leitht

A shout out for the CTS Turbo chargepipe. I just installed one on my 2015 435 convertible. It went in without having to touch the intercooler, and the convertible cross brace would have been a lot more work. The removal of the original plastic pipe was worst part.

Once the original pipe was removed, I installed the lower pipe onto the intercooler. After installing the connector sleeve onto the upper pipe, I slipped the upper pipe into place. After locking the upper pipe onto the throttle body, I tightened the clamps on the connect sleeve. There were no interference issues and everything fit perfectly.

The chargepipe came with new O-rings and new retaining clips.

Glad it went in easy, did you confirm it doesn't leak? An easy install is only half the battle if you have leaks

[Leitht]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Glad it went in easy, did you confirm it doesn't leak? An easy install is only half the battle if you have leaks

No issues on the drive after installation. It actually did run better/smoother, so I am suspecting that it was cracked prior to the blow up/off.

I have not done a BM3 logging to see the boost level, but based on the performance I doubt there is a boost leak.

[Leitht]

Forgot to mention that I purchased the charge-pipe earlier this year but never got it installed. A week prior, the plastic pipe blew during a mild 4th gear, half throttle acceleration. I was actually surprised at how drive-able the car was with the pipe blown off. Lucking I was only a half mile to the house.