[fe7565]

For those who have Google Pixel 3 but want Android 13, thus the latest AA (I use CarlPlay).

[navid0308]

Originally Posted by dotmaster206

Hey all, just installed an Andream MMI and backup camera in my 2016 340i and have a few issues that I'm hoping to get some help with. And, lesson learned to maybe help some other folks.

Issues:
- The sound when listening to music via Android Auto is much quieter and worse quality than the radio or using BMW bluetooth. I have to turn it up much higher than normal which sucks when switching between sources, and as mentioned, the quality isn't there. I have HK sound, if that makes any difference. I saw a post re: this issue saying to turn up your Aux volume to max in iDrive, but I don't see that option in my menus, just call volume can be set (and only when actively in a call for some stupid reason). Any workarounds to make the quality/volume better? I wish the MMI would allow you to use BMW bluetooth directly from the phone for all sound, not just calls but doesn't seem to be possible.

- I've seen people saying that button 8 is hardcoded to switch to Aux input, but it doesn't seem to work for me - I have to manually switch to Aux input via iDrive or steering wheel buttons to get sound from the MMI. Actually, none of my 1-8 preset buttons do anything when I have the MMI up, nor do my left/right buttons. Is this because I have NBT? Or is it something I could fix? Would be nice to at least retain function of the left right buttons so I could move through my radio preset stations while using Waze for navigation or something like that (don't care about not hearing verbal directions).

Lessons Learned:
- I have a manual transmission, so the backup camera install is different than the instructions I've seen say. They all tell you to connect the red wire on the video cable (the extra pigtail aka 'convenience wire') to the red power wire on the camera and that's it - leave the black ground taped up. That doesn't work. The camera gets power via that red convenience wire, yes (assuming you connect it to the MMI harness yellow wire for backup power) but you need a ground still. I connected ground to my taillight harness ground, which is a brown wire. As for activation, once I did that, it picked up reverse being active itself - no need for any trigger wire. Not sure how it works for auto cars and where ground comes from, but that was the only way to get my camera to power on.

- That method for powering the camera is still imperfect. With the engine off, the picture looks great but when on it looks noisy and distorted. Apparently the power is pretty dirty. The camera came with a little black box with Chinese lettering on it - apparently a signal conditioner. I should have used it - will go back and add that next weekend probably - hopefully it fixes that noisy looking image.

Thanks in advance for any help!

I increase the volume from mmi setting until it matches the level of the radio. As for quality, disabling loudness and using flat eq inside the mmi settings gave me the best quality.

8 is hard coded to switch to mmi box not aux. Some people also assign the aux front to 8 (by highlighting it using the idrive controller and pressing and holding 8 to save) - that way if you switch to the mmi by pressing and holding 8, you also switch to the aux front.

The left right buttons do work for me from inside the mmi to skip or go to prev track but I use CarPlay not AA.

[kwaazaar]

Originally Posted by navid0308

The left right buttons do work for me from inside the mmi to skip or go to prev track but I use CarPlay not AA.

For me they work on AA as well.

[videodj]

Originally Posted by kwaazaar

For me they work on AA as well.

Are you referring to the buttons on the cic under the numbers? Mine don't work in the mmi but the steering wheel buttons work fine.

[videodj]

Originally Posted by videodj

Roadtop support finally sent me a new MCU, which I have now update, which appears to have resolved the issue, will see how it goes over the next couple of days.

CUST Version: CHLR169R3
HW Version: B_CHL_G

Old MCU - 22.10.10.118
New MCU - 23.1.6.117

File can be download from the link below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-0k...ew?usp=sharing

The update has definitely helped seems to work most times, only times I've had issues was this morning. Car left over night, controls didn't work when I first got in, removed the fob and reinsert and started working, after that it was ok for the rest of the day. Although the controls didn't work, AA was running as music was playing on Aux.

Whilst I was coding out BMW voice assistant tonight it did it again, I pressed a few buttons, including holding the back button and it started to work again. Going to keep monitoring it over the next couple of days and see how it behaves, but at least it's an improvement.

[videodj]

The only other issue I have is that the PDC button doesn't do anything when in the MMI, the light comes on, but doesn't display the sensors, if I switch back to idrive it shows the sensors. I also noticed that the MMI only shows the pdc sensors when in reverse, unlike the idrive that shows until you go over 6mph. Bit annoying when parallel parking, pdc still makes sound, just no visual on screen without switching to idrive.

I'm waiting for a camera emulator, hopefully I can then set camera to original and use the idrive for pdc/camera. I used a splitter for the camera so I can switch between the 2 options without rewiring.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by emulajavi

Is it possible to downgrade the MCU?

If you have a later MCU installed, is it possible to install an earlier one?

Has anyone tried it?

Thx

Yes, the MCU can be downgraded. But make sure you have a backup of your current MCU version, if you may need that.

[HarryMrn]

I have Andream MMI box in my 2015 F36, for about 2 years it has been working well. But now it plays sound only on left side speakers. I have not changed any settings, there is no option to slide sound to left or right in MMI box sound settings, only EQ.

Original Harman Kardon system works well and I can use original BT connection to listen music, but then I do not hear Waze notifications from carlplay.

Its minor issue but maybe anyone has an idea how to resolve this problem?

Thanks!

[Paul0417]

Originally Posted by HarryMrn

I have Andream MMI box in my 2015 F36, for about 2 years it has been working well. But now it plays sound only on left side speakers. I have not changed any settings, there is no option to slide sound to left or right in MMI box sound settings, only EQ.

Original Harman Kardon system works well and I can use original BT connection to listen music, but then I do not hear Waze notifications from carlplay.

Its minor issue but maybe anyone has an idea how to resolve this problem?

Thanks!

It may be that the power cord is not connected properly. Try to reconnect the power cord. If there is still a problem, you need to contact the seller to replace it.

[Jenly Tang]

Originally Posted by HarryMrn

I have Andream MMI box in my 2015 F36, for about 2 years it has been working well. But now it plays sound only on left side speakers. I have not changed any settings, there is no option to slide sound to left or right in MMI box sound settings, only EQ.

Original Harman Kardon system works well and I can use original BT connection to listen music, but then I do not hear Waze notifications from carlplay.

Its minor issue but maybe anyone has an idea how to resolve this problem?

Thanks!

Hello my friend，

It's the power cord, it's a small problem, you can contact your seller to resend you a new power cord.

[emulajavi]

Originally Posted by fe7565

Yes, the MCU can be downgraded. But make sure you have a backup of your current MCU version, if you may need that.

Thank you.

I’m on the 21.9 and I wanted to try one of the newer ones, and I wanted to be sure that I could easily ‘update back to the 21.9’ in case the new one doesn’t work fine.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by emulajavi

Thank you.

I’m on the 21.9 and I wanted to try one of the newer ones, and I wanted to be sure that I could easily ‘update back to the 21.9’ in case the new one doesn’t work fine.

The consensus is that only try different software if you are trying to fix a problem. There is a risk.

[moghm]

Hello,

Anyone having an issue where you cant exit out of waze ? Back button just keeps revolving around within waze options and cant get back to the menu option of AA. I dont have the issue if using google maps, back button gets me to the menu option of AA. This is the latest iteration of AA by the way, menu option has moved to the right hand side. If i press the <back> button twice, AA just throws me out to the MMI menu. Many thanks

[Jenly Tang]

If anyone needs andream's products, the discount code "TQMCDV92" is available. You will get at least $10 off, good luck!

[Jenly Tang]

Originally Posted by moghm

Hello,

Anyone having an issue where you cant exit out of waze ? Back button just keeps revolving around within waze options and cant get back to the menu option of AA. I dont have the issue if using google maps, back button gets me to the menu option of AA. This is the latest iteration of AA by the way, menu option has moved to the right hand side. If i press the <back> button twice, AA just throws me out to the MMI menu. Many thanks

hi guy,

You can try using other buttons to switch or exit Waze. For example, turn the knob left and right, or press the buttons on the left and right sides of the knob.

[emulajavi]

Originally Posted by fe7565

The consensus is that only try different software if you are trying to fix a problem. There is a risk.

As of recent times, most of the time when I open and enter the car with my ‘CarPlay iphone’ in my pocket (with wifi and bluetooth enabled) and start the engine, the screen shows ‘no signal’ in the middle. After like 10 seconds the NBT reboots and CarPlay is shown fine.

This doesn’t happen if I enter the car without the CarPlay iPhone. It’s like the Andream box starts connecting the phone as soon as I open that car with the key, something doesn’t load correctly and the no signal message is shown. After that, it automatically reboots and finally connects correctly.

I want to try if the 2023 MCU makes any improvement on this random issue I experience. If not, I’ll go back to the 21.9 one and maybe try to downgrade the software to 1.5.0 or something like that from the 1.6.9r2 that I’m now on.

[videodj]

Originally Posted by WhiteRedSport

So the hack is simply connecting your phone to your iDrive BT and having it set to play calls and audio/music. In the meanwhile, keep your phone also connected to the MMI box as calls only. Then, in the MMI box, turn on the option "Using Car Phone's BT", which allows the MMI to route calls through the OEM/iDrive BT. Lastly, set your iDrive to AUX mode.

Now, the benefit of this is that even while in AUX mode, you still retain Harman Kardon Logic 7 and all that, which produces higher quality output. This all works across NBT and EVO.

Here's where things get interesting:

Some people report that they can simply switch over their iDrive to BT mode and still get music out of their car. This is possible ONLY on Carplay and NOT Android Auto and this allows you to use your steering scroll wheel to change tracks, which you cannot do on AUX mode. Some people claim they can do it even on AUX, and I believe that's an NBT only thing and not EVO, but your results may vary. It never worked on my EVO.

The reason for some of this weird stuff is because of the difference between Android Auto and Apple Carplay. In Android Auto, every bit of audio transmitted from your phone is completely routed through and ONLY through Android Auto WiFi connection. So even if you connect to a BT device (like your car's iDrive), you'll get no audio out of that BT device since all the audio is still being pushed through AA WiFi.

On Carplay, however, you can split those audio sources. So for that reason, some people here can happily use Carplay but use their iDrive BT to listen to music and all that. The HK hack that people confuse this functionality for is simply getting Harman Kardon through AUX. Switching their phone to transmit their audio over the iDrive BT isn't the HK hack.

Ok, so for AA users on NBT or NBT Evo, there is one solution to allow for using your iDrive BT for music, retaining steering scroll wheel track selection controls and playing music in a completely OEM BT way. This has no relation to any HK hack because we're not even bothering with AUX here. Anyway, the one and ONLY solution is the AAWireless dongle that you plug into the MMI box USB port to mimick wired AA. And then you connect your phone to the AAWireless dongle and you'll have wireless AA through that dongle. Why does this work? Because the AAWireless app has a function called "disable Audio sink", which is what finally splits audio away from WiFi only on Android Auto, letting you connect it directly to iDrive BT. The catch is that this dongle is $80. Another added benefit though is a much smoother Android Auto experience akin to a wired connection.

I spent the money and set it all up. Now I have pure OEM BT music, smooth Android Auto, track selection still visible on my HUD and controllable through my scroll wheel all on my NBT EVO ID6. My MMI box is RoadTop BTW.

Whew, what an insane rabbit hole to solve this issue.

I tried this as I already had an AA wireless adapter, whilst the wireless experience is better, when I enable media sink and music plays through BMW bluetooth, Android Auto Nav and Google Assistant still play through the Aux input. Did you experience this? I noticed in the the AA wireless app there is also and option for Nav sink, which may solve the Nav problem, but not sure about Google assistant, at the moment I running it with sink disabled

I also had to change the usb mode to get it to reliably switch the screen, only problem with that is that to access the MMI settings I need to disconnect AA first otherwise as soon as I exit and go to settings it reloads AA.

[kwaazaar]

Originally Posted by kwaazaar

Hi all. I have a problem with the CIC unit: several phones are connected with BT, but it shows no phones connected (empty list). When I try to pair a new phone, it get a long way in the process, but at the end it just returns to the empty list after a while, without adding the phone.

Not sure if that's caused/related to the Andream device (I know it caused canbus issues before, but I installed that fix already).

So I would just like to do a factory reset on mu CIC device. However, I find several ways with google, but none works. I tried to press and hold for a while:
* DVD-eject + volume
* Mode + volume

Anyone here experienced such a thing? Is there any other way to reset my CIC unit?

I drive a 2012 F30 with CIC unit with a large screen and use an NBT-version of Andream, which for some reason worked fine on my CIC unit.

Nobody has an idea? Could an updated MCU help?

[videodj]

Originally Posted by kwaazaar

Nobody has an idea? Could an updated MCU help?

Have you tried removing (or unplugging) the MMI to see if it makes a difference? I don't believe the MMI would cause this as they are separate systems.

Do you have a combox in the boot? It could just be a faulty bluetooth module.

[kwaazaar]

Originally Posted by videodj

Have you tried removing (or unplugging) the MMI to see if it makes a difference?

That would require me to remove the glovebox again, which is what I was hoping to prevent.

Originally Posted by videodj

It could just be a faulty bluetooth module.

The phones that are still paired (but dont show up as it shows an empty list), still connect and can play music. So this sounds like a software issue.

[videodj]

Ok, that's strange, so I assume you don't have the option to delete devices if the list is empty?

I'm pretty sure the MMI is not the cause, as it doesn't interact with idrive, just shares the screen.

Is the list empty under the media section as well as the phone section? If you can see the paired devices under media, external devices, you should be able to delete them from there and try repairing. Another thing to check is if any of the paired devices and strange characters or emojis in their device name, I've seen this cause issues with the device list.

[moghm]

Hi, thanks for that. it doesnt work. Have u had the same issue ?

Originally Posted by Jenly Tang

hi guy,

You can try using other buttons to switch or exit Waze. For example, turn the knob left and right, or press the buttons on the left and right sides of the knob.