[BlackBimmer1991]

Hey Guys,

I bought my jet black 2014 428 uses from the dealer. I love her but the paint has been noticeably abused. She looks “dry” when she’s clean, which I’m assuming is from the swirls.

She has the following: swirls, light holograms, and orange peal. I was quoted 1k for the paint correction but I’d rather spend a weekend doing it on my own.

Can someone please post a list of supply’s that I’ll need to embark on this. This forum has been constantly upgrading their procedures/supplies so I can’t keep up.

I’ll post pictures if needed.

[mbanks21]

If someone quoted you $1k I assume it's REALLY bad. You'll need a buffer, compound, polish, clay, wash mitts, etc, etc. Here's what I normally use depending on how bad the paint is:

Iron X
Carwash I use CG Snowfoam and Optimum regular carwash soap
I use a nanoskin clay towel 90% of the time but if the paint is really bad use actual clay
Compound- Menzerna FG400 or Meguiars M105/Ultimate Compound
Polishing - Menzerna SF3500 or Megs M205
Once the paint is perfect you have a million options for protection- wax, sealant, coatings.
Wax I like P21S Carnauba
Sealant I like Sonax PNS or Blackfire
Coatings I like Cquartz


If there's orange peel you may need to wet sand. I imagine that's why the high price quote.

[BlackBimmer1991]

Originally Posted by mbanks21

If someone quoted you $1k I assume it's REALLY bad. You'll need a buffer, compound, polish, clay, wash mitts, etc, etc. Here's what I normally use depending on how bad the paint is:

Iron X
Carwash I use CG Snowfoam and Optimum regular carwash soap
I use a nanoskin clay towel 90% of the time but if the paint is really bad use actual clay
Compound- Menzerna FG400 or Meguiars M105/Ultimate Compound
Polishing - Menzerna SF3500 or Megs M205
Once the paint is perfect you have a million options for protection- wax, sealant, coatings.
Wax I like P21S Carnauba
Sealant I like Sonax PNS or Blackfire
Coatings I like Cquartz


If there's orange peel you may need to wet sand. I imagine that's why the high price quote.

Thanks for the response! The prices in Philadelphia range from 800-3000. Although it looks bad the detailed said it’s about a 6/10.

[Billfitz]

My preference is for Menzerna Step 1, Step 2 and Step 3 for a full correction:
https://www.amazon.com/Menzerna-400-...BQNXQ8KCSM21RG

8oz of each is just enough for one treatment. Once you've use the Step 1 you probably won't need to again for a few years, so you might want to get an 8 oz bottle of Step 1, and larger bottles of Step 2 and 3. I use a rotary action with Step 1, which does a much faster job with initial correction, then random orbit with Step 2 and 3 to prevent swirling. I finish it off with Power Lock:
https://www.amazon.com/Jescar-Power-...QN3ENM2GV3B8EA

[John in VA]

Most/all modern BMWs have orange peel.
Did you check with Oakes Detailing in West Chester PA?
https://oakesdetail.com/

[Billfitz]

Most cars have orange peel, it's inevitable unless you apply many coats of clear coat, wet sanding after every three or four coats, and once again after the last coat. You end up with a finish no thicker than with the usual three or four coats of clear, but it will be perfect, and if you're paying someone to do it very expensive. It's just like getting a piano finish on furniture. I usually use at least twelve coats of finish.

[vanbmw]

Sounds like a good time for you to get a full detail set up. I would recommend emailing one of the companies that post on this site such as detailed image or detailers domain. Tell them your model and paint type. They will give you some great advice. I did this years ago and got a detailed email back with a list of products to get me set up based on my car and paint.

Currently I use

Porter Cable buffer. There are newer better ones now but mine still works great.
clay bar
Meguair"s M105 polish with lake country hydro tech pads
Meguair"S M204 finish polish
Jescar power lock sealant

There are so may great youtube videos showing you how to polish a car that you will be a pro in no time. I have found it was a bit of $$$ to get all set up but the products last a long time and the results have been great.

You may find it is better...newer technology...to go with a ceramic coating over the sealant but the detailing companies can give you recommendations on that.

[Fronttwelv]

Originally Posted by John in VA

Most/all modern BMWs have orange peel. You won't need to go though the clay bar step if you're planning to compound & polish.

Did you check with Oakes Detailing in West Chester PA?
https://oakesdetail.com/

This is not great advice. If you skip the decon stage you will really gunk up your pads which will create more marring and swirls. It will just make your polishing stage a nightmare.

[mbanks21]

Originally Posted by Fronttwelv

This is not great advice. If you skip the decon stage you will really gunk up your pads which will create more marring and swirls. It will just make your polishing stage a nightmare.

Just saw this and I agree. Clay/decon is one of the most important steps no matter what you do after it.

[John in VA]

@ fronttwelv & mbanks21 - We had a detailing clinic this past weekend & the question came up. From detailer Darryl's explanation I concur & will edit my response above. Thanks!

[tobefair-idontcare]

For those of you who responded prior or anyone with the knowledge, what all is included in the paint correction process? I'm looking for a paint correction service in the Northern VA area (or Maryland if it's not too far) and I want to know what all is included. I have a 2017 340i where the majority of the paint is pretty great, but the big problem I'm having is the numerous rock chips up front from the previous owner. He put about 35k mostly highway miles on the car and there arer several dozen rock chips on the hood, bumper and A pillars (as well as a few minor chips here and there from wear and tear. I'm not positive if rock chips are included and since the majority of the paint is swirl free and in very good condition I'm not sure what to expect price wise or how that's all configured. I wanted to accomplish the task myself, but It's probably a little outside my knowledge base to do confidently and I have none of the supplies to do it.

Any advice or guidance on what to expect, pricing or recommended service providers would be appreciated.

Also, as soon as it's done I'm getting the front end completely covered in PPF so if you have any tips or guidance in that area I'd also be greatful.

[Billfitz]

Chips would be filled with paint, which may or may not be included in the price for a full paint correction. When getting quotes mention that you have chips that need filling. Once you fill the chips with paint they need to be wet sanded and then rubbed out, with the rubbing out process pretty much the same as what you'd be doing anyway with paint correction.

[John in VA]

Originally Posted by tobefair-idontcare

For those of you who responded prior or anyone with the knowledge, what all is included in the paint correction process? I'm looking for a paint correction service in the Northern VA area (or Maryland if it's not too far) and I want to know what all is included.

Talk to Brian Lewis at American Shine & Darryl Nichols at Odds & Ends - both are in Sterling/Dulles off Rt. 28. Both will be at the concours in Vienna VA tomorrow. There is no charge for spectators.
https://www.americanshinedetailing.com/
https://www.facebook.com/oddsandendsdetailing/

Deutsche Marque Concours: http://msreg.com/DMC2019

[rjd598]

pay a professional. if you have never polished before i would not tackle it. it will take you much longer than a weekend and you have a pretty high chance of making mistakes. also for a proper paint correction your cost of materials will probably be the same as just paying a professional to do it for you.

oakes was a good recommendation.

[BlackBimmer1991]

Hey everyone,

Thank you to everyone that replied. It's been a while since I've done a full detail like this. This also reminded me why I've been putting this off for so long lol.

I some of your recommendations and I thought I'd provide an update. I started by washing the car using the 2 bucket method, and then moving onto the decontamination stage. I used Iron X for the first time. This stuff doesn't smell too badly. But my only qualm is that I couldn't really tell when it changed colors. Mostly because my car is black. Other than that, I believe it helped because my clay bar barely picked anything else up.

For the polishing stage, I used 3D one step. It gets the job done but it also didn't remove some of the deeper scratches. This could also be because I only used a yellow polishing pad and a finishing pad. Maybe I should've used wool or something more abrasive? But either way, I got rid of 75-80% of the swirls. She's not perfect but a hell of a lot better than before.

After I was finished polishing I applied a ceramic coating for the very first time. Way easier than I expected. I used 22ple VX3. Went on easy and off easy. But the design of the bottle sucks because I spilled half the product on the garage floor. You'd think for 75 dollars they'd design the bottle so the product can't be spilled but oh well. Either way, with 15ml I was still able to coat the entire car and have some left over.

The entire job took 12 hours and I didn't even touch the interior. I think I'll end up paying a professional to do this next time but I'm still happy with the results. Below are some pictures.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by BlackBimmer1991

For the polishing stage, I used 3D one step. It gets the job done but it also didn't remove some of the deeper scratches.

Deep scratches can only be removed with a heavy cut compound. Heavy cut compounds don't leave a high gloss finish. Removing deep scratches and getting a high gloss finish requires using at least two products.

[BlackBimmer1991]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Deep scratches can only be removed with a heavy cut compound. Heavy cut compounds don't leave a high gloss finish. Removing deep scratches and getting a high gloss finish requires using at least two products.

Live and learn. I'll keep it in mind for next time. Thanks.

[RAK92]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Deep scratches can only be removed with a heavy cut compound. Heavy cut compounds don't leave a high gloss finish. Removing deep scratches and getting a high gloss finish requires using at least two products.

Exactly. You’ll have to use the heavy-cut compound followed by the finishing compound to remove deep scratches.

Do a Google search for “Junkman detailing videos”. You won’t be disappointed. He explains everything you need to do to detail your car like a pro. The key is the technique Vice the actual products you use. He has like 6 or 7 parts to his videos and takes the time to go over every step in the paint correction process. Plus, he’s a retired USMC GySgt to boot! Hoo-yah!

[Billfitz]

Or just read Post #4 in this thread.