[Creedozz]

Before changing the usb port i suggest you to check port's cable connection sir. Its very easy to remove that little trim you can see at youtube.

[human compass]

Just to add to the discussion-

when I used bimmer code to add video in motion I also added usb video function. Started having this issue after that. Just reverted to video in motion on but usb video disabled and problem is no solved. At least for now. Its been 30 minutes

[walkernight88]

Reviving an old thread. I've retrofitted a while ago NBT on F10. Never used USB, only bluetooth. After a friend of mine stated that the phone will charge/at least keep battery level and music quality is better, I gave it a shot and found out that my XS Max does the same thing. Tried 4 cables and at last one worked. The problem is that it worked only for the port located in the glovebox. (I have the mass USB routed to the glovebox and the iPod (Smartphone 2 USB) in the armrest)

Connecting the iPhone to the USB2 from NBT did the same thing (conn/disconn every sec) no matter how many cables I tried. Also I did re-route the cables and found out that one plug with one cable works and any other combination does not.

Finally I've solved the issue: bought a 10 dollar USB 3.0 HUB. Connected the hub to the armrest USB, connected the phone with ANY cable, worked like a charm.

It's cheaper and faster than replacing the Headunit to USB port cable or the port itself. It's not about charging power and the fact NBT cuts power (It never does that, even if it's limited to 5v (mine actually 5.23V) and 500mAh. Now it powers the HUB (+some blue lights from the hub) and the phone without an issue. As I read and saw in Apples documents there are several "software" and "hardware" handshakes and it falls through each. The NBT - iPhone handshake fails because of resistance apparently, which is solved by the HUB.

Hope it helps somebody.

[DeeKay]

Originally Posted by walkernight88

Reviving an old thread. I've retrofitted a while ago NBT on F10. Never used USB, only bluetooth. After a friend of mine stated that the phone will charge/at least keep battery level and music quality is better, I gave it a shot and found out that my XS Max does the same thing. Tried 4 cables and at last one worked. The problem is that it worked only for the port located in the glovebox. (I have the mass USB routed to the glovebox and the iPod (Smartphone 2 USB) in the armrest)

Connecting the iPhone to the USB2 from NBT did the same thing (conn/disconn every sec) no matter how many cables I tried. Also I did re-route the cables and found out that one plug with one cable works and any other combination does not.

Finally I've solved the issue: bought a 10 dollar USB 3.0 HUB. Connected the hub to the armrest USB, connected the phone with ANY cable, worked like a charm.

It's cheaper and faster than replacing the Headunit to USB port cable or the port itself. It's not about charging power and the fact NBT cuts power (It never does that, even if it's limited to 5v (mine actually 5.23V) and 500mAh. Now it powers the HUB (+some blue lights from the hub) and the phone without an issue. As I read and saw in Apples documents there are several "software" and "hardware" handshakes and it falls through each. The NBT - iPhone handshake fails because of resistance apparently, which is solved by the HUB.

Hope it helps somebody.

Thanks A LOT!

For some reason, my F36 does this as well. I tried your "trick" and ordered a short cable and a USB 3.1 hub online to put the phone in my arm rest. From the very first connection it just works now...

Great job - thanks a million.

[mazen222]

Originally Posted by Ringway007

Hi buddy,
Think I found the culprit to this! 😃I also had my usb port in the armrest flap with an on/off intermittent behaviour.
It was only till a few days ago a member on here brought to my attention that one of the values needed to be changed via coding.

I used BIMMERCODE and this was what I had to change:
HU_NBT > HMI 3000 > CDMM_USB_AUDIO = all

You need to change the last value at the end to first and this will fix the flapping issue. 😃
Note I used BIMMERCODE in expert mode. Its pretty much simple! Let me know how you get on if you still have your car and have this issue?

My friend you’re a genius. It worked perfectly Thank you!

[hensy]

Originally Posted by DeeKay

Thanks A LOT!

For some reason, my F36 does this as well. I tried your "trick" and ordered a short cable and a USB 3.1 hub online to put the phone in my arm rest. From the very first connection it just works now...

Great job - thanks a million.

Hi,
I have exactly this same problem in my -14 530xd F11. I use 12v sockets with USB adapters to charge phone, but I would like to use the center console USB-socket to connect my phone to the car with the bmw connected app and get the information about mileage, fuel consumption etc..
What different the hub does compared to normal USB-cable other than multiplies the ports and how does it solve the issue with too low voltage? Does the hub need to be one with external power supply?

[walkernight88]

Originally Posted by hensy

Hi,
I have exactly this same problem in my -14 530xd F11. I use 12v sockets with USB adapters to charge phone, but I would like to use the center console USB-socket to connect my phone to the car with the bmw connected app and get the information about mileage, fuel consumption etc..
What different the hub does compared to normal USB-cable other than multiplies the ports and how does it solve the issue with too low voltage? Does the hub need to be one with external power supply?

No. You don't need to buy an externally powered adapter. If you do tho, it might charge faster the phone (Not sure, there are protocols too). The idea is written in my post why it works and how it works. It's all about iPhone - Headunit handshake.

Any generic hub from a local supermarket might works as well as an expensive powered one.

[Brad12345]

Originally Posted by Ringway007

Hi buddy,
Think I found the culprit to this! 😃I also had my usb port in the armrest flap with an on/off intermittent behaviour.
It was only till a few days ago a member on here brought to my attention that one of the values needed to be changed via coding.

I used BIMMERCODE and this was what I had to change:
HU_NBT > HMI 3000 > CDMM_USB_AUDIO = all

You need to change the last value at the end to first and this will fix the flapping issue. 😃
Note I used BIMMERCODE in expert mode. Its pretty much simple! Let me know how you get on if you still have your car and have this issue?

This worked great for my 2013 535I!

[TrackEnthusiast]

Originally Posted by Brad12345

This worked great for my 2013 535I!

I believe the coding is necessary, and just did it to my 2014 125i. The connection was working (luckly) right before the coding, so I will give it some time until say here that the issue is finally resolved. Will post back in a couple of weeks.

I've been struggling with this issue for over a year and, in my opinion, all the problems come together: sometimes, in some cars, is the USB socket that is worned out, some other times is the cable. However, sometimes, on top of the hardware intermittent failures, I believe that either the iDrive firmware and/or the iphone software crashes and they might attempt to restart the connection and then get stuck at it.

The reason I believe that software allways plays a role in this problem is because many times I observed the iDrive and my iPhone 7 getting confused about what was the audio source when connected to the USB arm rest. Most of the times they correctly sorted that is Spotify app via BMW apps (which I allways use), however, sometimes the Spotify app hangs and yet the music keeps playing, as if it was playing from the iPhone as a external USB drive. Some other times Spotify crashes at start, but then if I go to the "sources" menu on i Drive and selects "external USB" the Spotify music plays (but at a different volume). Some other times, Spotify appears at the iDrive but the music comes out of the iPhone speakers...

So, based on the behavior described above, I think that many times the on/off behavior happens as a consequence of software crashing in either end (iPhone or iDrive), because they can not resolve if the connection is via BMW Apps or regular USB (or BT, if eneabled). This explains the behavior observed by many people that only had the issue after BT enabled (another simultaneous data source). Finally, it also explains why the coding of the value described in the previous posts resolve the issue. Can't tell for sure, but when I looked at the possible values for the CMDD_USB_AUDIO (all, first, second) it looks like to me that the "all" which comes selected from factory, allows all this mess of multiple simultaneous connections. It might be that, when you change it to "first", then, once one audio connection is estabilished further requests of connection are denied.

[TrackEnthusiast]

Originally Posted by pedrobroese

I believe the coding is necessary, and just did it to my 2014 125i. The connection was working (luckly) right before the coding, so I will give it some time until say here that the issue is finally resolved. Will post back in a couple of weeks.

I've been struggling with this issue for over a year and, in my opinion, all the problems come together: sometimes, in some cars, is the USB socket that is worned out, some other times is the cable. However, sometimes, on top of the hardware intermittent failures, I believe that either the iDrive firmware and/or the iphone software crashes and they might attempt to restart the connection and then get stuck at it.

The reason I believe that software allways plays a role in this problem is because many times I observed the iDrive and my iPhone 7 getting confused about what was the audio source when connected to the USB arm rest. Most of the times they correctly sorted that is Spotify app via BMW apps (which I allways use), however, sometimes the Spotify app hangs and yet the music keeps playing, as if it was playing from the iPhone as a external USB drive. Some other times Spotify crashes at start, but then if I go to the "sources" menu on i Drive and selects "external USB" the Spotify music plays (but at a different volume). Some other times, Spotify appears at the iDrive but the music comes out of the iPhone speakers...

So, based on the behavior described above, I think that many times the on/off behavior happens as a consequence of software crashing in either end (iPhone or iDrive), because they can not resolve if the connection is via BMW Apps or regular USB (or BT, if eneabled). This explains the behavior observed by many people that only had the issue after BT enabled (another simultaneous data source). Finally, it also explains why the coding of the value described in the previous posts resolve the issue. Can't tell for sure, but when I looked at the possible values for the CMDD_USB_AUDIO (all, first, second) it looks like to me that the "all" which comes selected from factory, allows all this mess of multiple simultaneous connections. It might be that, when you change it to "first", then, once one audio connection is estabilished further requests of connection are denied.

Indeed, the coding did the trick. Its been several weeks since I’ve coded and the issue never returned.

[Pete000]

I have this problem too, and have tried a new cable. Is there any wat I can test the USB module itself?

[Ezzer]

Originally Posted by walkernight88

Reviving an old thread. I've retrofitted a while ago NBT on F10. Never used USB, only bluetooth. After a friend of mine stated that the phone will charge/at least keep battery level and music quality is better, I gave it a shot and found out that my XS Max does the same thing. Tried 4 cables and at last one worked. The problem is that it worked only for the port located in the glovebox. (I have the mass USB routed to the glovebox and the iPod (Smartphone 2 USB) in the armrest)

Connecting the iPhone to the USB2 from NBT did the same thing (conn/disconn every sec) no matter how many cables I tried. Also I did re-route the cables and found out that one plug with one cable works and any other combination does not.

Finally I've solved the issue: bought a 10 dollar USB 3.0 HUB. Connected the hub to the armrest USB, connected the phone with ANY cable, worked like a charm.

It's cheaper and faster than replacing the Headunit to USB port cable or the port itself. It's not about charging power and the fact NBT cuts power (It never does that, even if it's limited to 5v (mine actually 5.23V) and 500mAh. Now it powers the HUB (+some blue lights from the hub) and the phone without an issue. As I read and saw in Apples documents there are several "software" and "hardware" handshakes and it falls through each. The NBT - iPhone handshake fails because of resistance apparently, which is solved by the HUB.

Hope it helps somebody.

Just want to say thank you - been plague with this for over a year, one day was way out of town and phone ran out of battery (I.e. couldn’t call and was using Waze), somehow made it home and gave up, switched to lighter socket…..

Tried dealer twice of course they said it’s fine or couldn’t replicate.

Got a £2 USB 3.0 hub today and it worked a charm! Even with a non-apple 2 meter cable, had the iPhone 8 charging and all USB functions working immediately.

Thank you!

[sergsklad]

Originally Posted by walkernight88

Reviving an old thread. I've retrofitted a while ago NBT on F10. Never used USB, only bluetooth. After a friend of mine stated that the phone will charge/at least keep battery level and music quality is better, I gave it a shot and found out that my XS Max does the same thing. Tried 4 cables and at last one worked. The problem is that it worked only for the port located in the glovebox. (I have the mass USB routed to the glovebox and the iPod (Smartphone 2 USB) in the armrest)

Connecting the iPhone to the USB2 from NBT did the same thing (conn/disconn every sec) no matter how many cables I tried. Also I did re-route the cables and found out that one plug with one cable works and any other combination does not.

Finally I've solved the issue: bought a 10 dollar USB 3.0 HUB. Connected the hub to the armrest USB, connected the phone with ANY cable, worked like a charm.

It's cheaper and faster than replacing the Headunit to USB port cable or the port itself. It's not about charging power and the fact NBT cuts power (It never does that, even if it's limited to 5v (mine actually 5.23V) and 500mAh. Now it powers the HUB (+some blue lights from the hub) and the phone without an issue. As I read and saw in Apples documents there are several "software" and "hardware" handshakes and it falls through each. The NBT - iPhone handshake fails because of resistance apparently, which is solved by the HUB.

Hope it helps somebody.

thanks

[fe7565]

Glad I found this thread, same problem with both USB ports not "reading" iPhones on my 2012 F30. I had sporadic success with both USB's recognizing my iPhone 6s and SE 2020. Android phone and USB thumb drives work without issues. Today I used a USB hub and seem to work for both phones and both USB ports. Will see if it remains that way. Maybe a good idea too to wire up the USB outlets where the power cable gets 5V externally and not from the NBT HU.

Looks like there is a combination of issues here that could lead to this problem and all because of the low current capacity of the USBs vs the newer iPhones power needs. I retrofitted my CIC to NBT and enabled EBT which probably ran up power consumption. Also, enabled video, etc on the USB. the whole enchilada...and as others mentioned it this may be too much for the antiquated 2012 BMW setup. But most likely, it's the varying impedance of the cable(s) and connections at D+/D- that it not matching what the HU is looking for.