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      10-30-2023, 03:56 AM   #1
PG325
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Rear Brake Line Replacement (metal)

I'm starting to see a lot of surface corrosion on the rear pipes, especially where they join into the caliper rubber hose. The pipes them self are relatively cheap, but I'm wondering if they can be removed and new refitted without having to remove anything, such as the fuel tank etc, has anyone done this, or have knowledge of the process?
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      10-30-2023, 08:14 AM   #2
Watsey
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I'm planning to remove and replace the final sections of rigid brake lines on my 2012 F31. Corrosion has formed at the brake line / brake union, to the extent that the brake line starts to twist and deform if I try to undo the union.

A workshop has quoted for the work, but it's more expensive than I'd like. I plan to buy the materials and necessary tools, and to do the job myself.

All you really need is a rotary-action cutter, a flaring tool, new brake line, a line bending tool of the correct diameter for the line, brake line connectors, and some new unions. Preformed brake line extensions are available as well. My gut feel is that I could do all four in a day, including bleeding the system.
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      10-30-2023, 09:07 AM   #3
PG325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watsey View Post
I'm planning to remove and replace the final sections of rigid brake lines on my 2012 F31. Corrosion has formed at the brake line / brake union, to the extent that the brake line starts to twist and deform if I try to undo the union.

A workshop has quoted for the work, but it's more expensive than I'd like. I plan to buy the materials and necessary tools, and to do the job myself.

All you really need is a rotary-action cutter, a flaring tool, new brake line, a line bending tool of the correct diameter for the line, brake line connectors, and some new unions. Preformed brake line extensions are available as well. My gut feel is that I could do all four in a day, including bleeding the system.
I do have a flaring kit and kunifer pipe left over from a previous E30 job where I did exactly what you said, replaced the ends instead of the whole thing, it's perhaps a route I will take if the subframe/tank need to be dropped to fit genuine full front to rear replacements.
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      10-30-2023, 09:38 AM   #4
TurboWeasel
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Fuel tank takes 5 mins to drop down on a F3x, once you've disconnected the fuel lines. Well, it seemed that way at least when I dropped it to fit the AGM tools parking brake clamp.

Subframe comes down easily enough as well.

Personally speaking, I would only use the proper coated steel lines, but not the preformed ones as they cost a bloody fortune. If BMW don't sell the factory pipe by the meter, VW do. It's the same stuff. Copper and kunifer just looks like someone has threaded bits of string under the car. Good for a bodge it and scarper fix to sell a car, but if it's a keeper.....oem steel lines all the way. Just coat the fittings with Wurth wax afterwards for a lifetime repair.

I've done it a couple of times, end to end, with a tool similar to this and oem steel lines - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-BPF-...008YFX2J4&th=1
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