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      09-10-2020, 09:01 AM   #67
parker1035
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Do we have an aftermarket option for a flywheel/clutch? I received this response from Steve Kaminski at XClutch when I inquired about their organic twin disc options for the 340:


“We are checking on the fitment. The OEM parts would work however our flywheel is slightly different than the OEM flywheel. There is a locating dowel on the crankshaft for the flywheel. The locating dowel for 335i and your 340ix are slightly offset. The OEM flywheel has a oval hole and is why you can use an OEM flywheel and clutch from the 335i, however the locating dowel hole on our flywheel is where the 335i so our flywheel will not fit directly onto your engine without modification.

Engineering checking on how we can make this accommodation to suit both applications.“
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      09-10-2020, 03:23 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parker1035 View Post
Do we have an aftermarket option for a flywheel/clutch? I received this response from Steve Kaminski at XClutch when I inquired about their organic twin disc options for the 340:


“We are checking on the fitment. The OEM parts would work however our flywheel is slightly different than the OEM flywheel. There is a locating dowel on the crankshaft for the flywheel. The locating dowel for 335i and your 340ix are slightly offset. The OEM flywheel has a oval hole and is why you can use an OEM flywheel and clutch from the 335i, however the locating dowel hole on our flywheel is where the 335i so our flywheel will not fit directly onto your engine without modification.

Engineering checking on how we can make this accommodation to suit both applications.“
Most people go with either Spec or clutchmasters
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      11-19-2020, 06:36 PM   #69
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I'm looking to go BM3 stage 2 w/ a catted DP – but on 91 CA gas. From what I've seen it should end up around ~400whp. You guys think I'd have issues w/ the stock F30 clutch slipping?

I'd rather not upgrade the clutch if I can help it (I'd rather just stick to stage 1 in that case). Or maybe a CDV delete like RedLeather recommended would be sufficient?
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      11-19-2020, 07:36 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAKKI View Post
I'm looking to go BM3 stage 2 w/ a catted DP – but on 91 CA gas. From what I've seen it should end up around ~400whp. You guys think I'd have issues w/ the stock F30 clutch slipping?

I'd rather not upgrade the clutch if I can help it (I'd rather just stick to stage 1 in that case). Or maybe a CDV delete like RedLeather recommended would be sufficient?
You'll be fine, I ran stage 2 for maybe a year, then went stage 2+ and now custom tuned with e50 and it's starting to slip so I ordered the 550i clutch
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      11-20-2020, 07:44 AM   #71
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I think it varies on a case by case basis. My car had 25k miles when I went stage 2 (93 octane) and my clutch started slipping almost immediately so I went with the 550i clutch
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      11-20-2020, 08:06 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAKKI View Post
I'm looking to go BM3 stage 2 w/ a catted DP – but on 91 CA gas. From what I've seen it should end up around ~400whp. You guys think I'd have issues w/ the stock F30 clutch slipping?

I'd rather not upgrade the clutch if I can help it (I'd rather just stick to stage 1 in that case). Or maybe a CDV delete like RedLeather recommended would be sufficient?
No you will be good with stock clutch and stage 2 plus.
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      11-20-2020, 08:07 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyb26 View Post
I think it varies on a case by case basis. My car had 25k miles when I went stage 2 (93 octane) and my clutch started slipping almost immediately so I went with the 550i clutch
Hmm I don't know that doesn't sound like it from the tune cause I was fbo custom tune making more power than ots maps and my clutch had no problem at 68k miles yours was probably an isolated issue.
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      11-20-2020, 10:27 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAKKI View Post
I'm looking to go BM3 stage 2 w/ a catted DP – but on 91 CA gas. From what I've seen it should end up around ~400whp. You guys think I'd have issues w/ the stock F30 clutch slipping?

I'd rather not upgrade the clutch if I can help it (I'd rather just stick to stage 1 in that case). Or maybe a CDV delete like RedLeather recommended would be sufficient?
You'll be fine stock depending on mileage and wear. Mine did not slip until I went from the Stage 2+ 93 octane map to the 95 octane map. There's a difference. I removed the CDV to run the 95 octane map occasionally. It's been great since September of 2019.
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      11-20-2020, 11:40 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLeather View Post
You'll be fine stock depending on mileage and wear. Mine did not slip until I went from the Stage 2+ 93 octane map to the 95 octane map. There's a difference. I removed the CDV to run the 95 octane map occasionally. It's been great since September of 2019.
So RedLeather you're still on the stock f30 clutch correct? And just doing a CDV delete was sufficient to run Stage 2+ 95? That's impressive.

I guess I'm just confused as I see some getting slippage with far more modest upgrades, but I guess it depends case-case on clutch health, driving habits etc. How many miles are on your car?
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      11-20-2020, 11:53 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAKKI View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLeather View Post
You'll be fine stock depending on mileage and wear. Mine did not slip until I went from the Stage 2+ 93 octane map to the 95 octane map. There's a difference. I removed the CDV to run the 95 octane map occasionally. It's been great since September of 2019.
So RedLeather you're still on the stock f30 clutch correct? And just doing a CDV delete was sufficient to run Stage 2+ 95? That's impressive.

I guess I'm just confused as I see some getting slippage with far more modest upgrades, but I guess it depends case-case on clutch health, driving habits etc. How many miles are on your car?
Yes, still on the stock clutch. The car has 62k miles and I've probably been roughly 10k miles without the CDV now. It's also been FBO and tuned for the past 2 years or roughly 17k miles.

My guess in the variability is also different driving habits. Different people driving manuals differently from the other.
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      11-20-2020, 12:42 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLeather View Post
Yes, still on the stock clutch. The car has 62k miles and I've probably been roughly 10k miles without the CDV now. It's also been FBO and tuned for the past 2 years or roughly 17k miles.

My guess in the variability is also different driving habits. Different people driving manuals differently from the other.
RedLeather Yeah mines got 35k and my mechanic says my clutch is still in great shape. I'm not a super aggressive manual driver but I'm also not perfect -- especially when I'm tired lol (clutch stop really helped the 1-2 though).

Curious to know: under what conditions does the clutch start to slip for those that have had the issue? When you're really flooring it through the gears? Or even under normal acceleration?
And similarly for those that have deleted the CDV where have you seen the biggest improvement?

Just trying to understand how much of an impact the CDV delete would have on me. I'd love to go stage 2 w/ a DP but the last thing I want to do right now is replace the clutch. Maybe I should play it safe and go stage 1 w/ DP for now?
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      11-20-2020, 12:48 PM   #78
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Most people are having clutch slip at the stage 2 E30 level. I'd guess the stage 2+ 93 map puts out a similar amount of torque. It might not slip right away, but people begin having issues after some hard driving (maybe a few months).

It does depend on your driving style. If you have a habit of shifting fast and doing a lot of pulls, it will not hold as well as if you're just daily driving. But our clutch is the same clutch that e9x 335i guys had, so there's plenty of data out there to show it can't hold much over 480-500wtq.
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      12-27-2020, 11:28 AM   #79
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Glad to have found this information. Got the Drivetrain Malfunction code 2 weeks ago when driving one night (cold outside; not sure if that matters too much). The 2 clutch codes popped up, and cleared them last week. Got the codes again last night (again, cold outside; may be coincidental). The car 'over rev's between gears in higher load situations. 'Normal' driving is good. So, I guess it's time for the 550i clutch? Been running stage 1 BM3 93 oct tune since July.

*Ignore my signature. Waiting to get a clutch to go stage 2 with DP*
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      12-28-2020, 03:07 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avodka14 View Post
Glad to have found this information. Got the Drivetrain Malfunction code 2 weeks ago when driving one night (cold outside; not sure if that matters too much). The 2 clutch codes popped up, and cleared them last week. Got the codes again last night (again, cold outside; may be coincidental). The car 'over rev's between gears in higher load situations. 'Normal' driving is good. So, I guess it's time for the 550i clutch? Been running stage 1 BM3 93 oct tune since July.

*Ignore my signature. Waiting to get a clutch to go stage 2 with DP*
yup that's what mine was doing. I was stage 2 with DP. Since upgrading to the 550i clutch I've had no problems
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      12-28-2020, 07:53 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avodka14 View Post
Glad to have found this information. Got the Drivetrain Malfunction code 2 weeks ago when driving one night (cold outside; not sure if that matters too much). The 2 clutch codes popped up, and cleared them last week. Got the codes again last night (again, cold outside; may be coincidental). The car 'over rev's between gears in higher load situations. 'Normal' driving is good. So, I guess it's time for the 550i clutch? Been running stage 1 BM3 93 oct tune since July.

*Ignore my signature. Waiting to get a clutch to go stage 2 with DP*
It is temperature related. When the clutch is cold, the pressure plate doesn't grab as well, hence the slip. But really it's just an early sign of the clutch starting go anyway. The slipping will get worse.
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      12-29-2020, 09:12 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyb26 View Post
yup that's what mine was doing. I was stage 2 with DP. Since upgrading to the 550i clutch I've had no problems
Thank you! Pretty sad the clutch can’t hold power with a stage 1 tune. Oh well, 550 clutch it is. Thanks again!
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      12-29-2020, 06:15 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Newt View Post
It is temperature related. When the clutch is cold, the pressure plate doesn't grab as well, hence the slip. But really it's just an early sign of the clutch starting go anyway. The slipping will get worse.
Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully the 550i clutch will hold stage 2 with DP.

I like your dyno numbers! Your car must roll with the new age pony cars with that power and x drive!
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      12-30-2020, 01:20 AM   #84
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Adding another point of data for anyone looking here in the future. I got slipping after BM3 stage 1 around 55k miles. I was pretty shocked how early and what power levels caused it. I upgraded to the 550i clutch as well and fortunately the flywheel didn't need to be replaced.
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      12-30-2020, 03:10 PM   #85
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how is everyone 'breaking in' the new clutch?
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      12-30-2020, 11:24 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by designatedposter View Post
how is everyone 'breaking in' the new clutch?
No WOT for a few hundred miles. My mechanic said 1k or 2k miles, but fuck that lmao. I got people to race.
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      12-31-2020, 04:53 PM   #87
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Haha.

Got the 550i clutch and cdv delete at same time. Got a problem.

On cold start, the clutch engagement point is low, and engagement is grabby. Once warm, the engagement point rises like an inch and engagement becomes softer. What's going on?
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      01-03-2021, 02:50 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by designatedposter View Post
Haha.

Got the 550i clutch and cdv delete at same time. Got a problem.

On cold start, the clutch engagement point is low, and engagement is grabby. Once warm, the engagement point rises like an inch and engagement becomes softer. What's going on?
Hard to say. Maybe try bleeding again, and make sure there aren't any leaks in the clutch line.
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